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1990 745 GL, B230F, Regina ign, NA, automatic, no Cat, 180K mi.
A week ago began to run rough, I cleaned & gapped plugs - looked normal. I cleaned contacts on dist cap and rotor w #320 W/D paper. Runs better, smooth. 3 days later it started fine when cold, wouldn't restart when engine was warm, didn't even cough or fire. I put in a less used/worn clean cap & rotor. Installed new in-line fuel filter - ran the fuel pump (this car only has one, it's in the tank) while line was disconnected and the gas flow was strong. It starts cold, runs smoother, won't re-start when warm.
OBD codes are 3-2-1, 2-2-1, 1-2-3. I haven't found what they mean. Going by Bentley for '90 - '93 240 B230F codes, most relevant seems to be "fuel mixture way too lean or way too rich". So yesterday I cleaned the O2 sensor w spray - there was soot on it. Cleaned the MAP/AMM w AMM spray, and cleaned air intake accordian tube - neither was very dirty. Starts cold, runs smooth w almost full power - I tried to restart warm and it coughed twice and then was back to seem to be dry (of fuel). Three mos ago I removed and cleaned the oil trap. Oil & filter are semi-clean from recent change, AF clean enough, new plugs 1500 mi ago. Not blowing any fuses. Grounds look good. OBD codes remained the same.
Haven't changed the plug wires nor the O2 sensor in 8K+ miles I've put on it since I bought the car (not running) 3 yrs ago. Haven't checked the ECT sensor.
I've read FAQs - I will disconnect and clean all ground connections in engine compartment. I found: "No Hot Restart - Change the CPS/RPM Sensor". Also several ign system components are specific to Regina. Thinking I might need:
Plug wire set (Bosch for Regina)
O2 sensor (titania for Regina)
CPS (for Regina)
RockAutoParts has lots of info and choices, plus a wide range of prices
Feedback and advice please! I've gotta drive this car, or it's my International 6.9L dump truck.
Steve
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bet you have a vacuum leak,,,replace all the lines use clamps where the lines enter the throttle body.When It gets warmed up that is where the leaks are.
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I will replace the vac lines that I haven't already. That will be a very thin white plastic tube w thicker blk rubber tube at each end, going fr manifold to MAP sensor up on the firewall.
The others I haven't replaced are the 3 to and from the charcoal fumes reservoir. They appear undamaged and OK, but... I don't know.
The car had started every time for 5 tries at my house, warming up for 7 mins, and it restarted. So last night I drove out on an errand/work run of 10 miles taking 18 mins to get there at an easy pace. I was there working for 2.5 hrs, and it started right up for the drive home.
So today I drove harder and faster for 10 miles for 13 mins, parked (shut off engine) at Agway, paid for propane, got back into the car within 3 mins and car wouldn't start. Had to wait 2 hrs 45 mins before it was cool enough to start. While waiting I checked OBD. #6 1-1-1, #2 3-2-1, 2-2-1 (could have been left over cause I hadn't cleared previous readings) and 3-1-1. I'll look in Bentley to interpret. I drove home at a very moderate pace, it seemed to run slightly rough and gurgly, not full smooth power. I'm going to clear all codes now, start *I hope) and run to warm for 8 mins, then check codes again - before I swap in more vac lines.
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Blk rubber elbow at manifold end of thin white plastic vac line to MAP was soft w a split at the end which slips onto the brass nipple. I replaced it w a firm rubber elbow off my '85 240. I deleted prev OBD codes.
It started right up, I ran it for 7 - 8 mins to warm, shut off. Check OBD codes: #6 1-1-1, #2 3-2-1, 1-1-1. It restarted. Shut it off. It restarted again! A good way to end the night.
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If I read the thread correctly, you have not used the Rex or Regina codes. This link to the FAQ has those.
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm#EZK116IgnitionFaultCodes
Also, the MAP, manifold air pressure sensor, is not on the firewall. What component could you be referring to?
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Thanks, The Regina codes show lots more than what I was looking at in Bentley for LH 2.4.
Most recent codes are #6 1-1-1 #2 3-2-1. 3-1-1. This says no signal from speedo sender, which is true because the connector on the differential was corroded and crumbled apart. The pair of wires dangled to the road. I have a matching connector but don't know which wire goes to which pin, so I've put off reconnecting it. This "fault" shouldn't cause a "no warm start" condition, should it? Last night it wouldn't start when warm, again! I had driven the day before on errands for 1.5 hours making 3 stops and restarts while warm. I thought I had fixed it.
So last night after no warm start I removed, cleaned and tested the IAC, it works and I reinstalled it. I rechecked vac lines. I don't know how to check the line from fuel tank to charcoal storage but it looked OK at the canister end. I reconnected the rubber air supply tube and plastic elbow to the throttle body. I had already cleaned those. The TPS clicks on start of turning the linkage. I haven't done anything w the ECT sensor except look at the wires, as I am not getting any fault codes for it.
I will clean contacts on dist cap and rotor again as soon as it stops raining, they get dirty/burned too quickly it seems to me for the money I spent less than 3k miles ago, about $55. I routinely clean cap & rotor contacts w #220 and #320 W/D paper. When I cleaned them 3 wks ago that gave me 2 days of warm restarts. Is that a big clue or just a coincidence?
Day before yest I reinstalled a section of exhaust pipe just downstream from the O2 sensor so I looked at it. I was clean, no soot, it's new from one week ago.
My suspicion is that it still has an air intake leak or a vacuum leak, but I don't know where more to look. More suggestions for diagnosis and fix, please!!
The MAP is in front of the firewall, on driver side, held by 2 screws to a bracket. I took it off, removed the metal cover and cleaned the dust away, checked the 3 prong connector. It was clean. I re-installed it.
Ever since putting this car on the road 2+ yrs ago some of the instrument gauges don't work right, but that hasn't changed much. Blue high beam indicator is on when ignition is on, and when hdlts are on dim. When I switch to high beams blue lt goes off and temp gauge goes to zero (left, cold). Switch to low beam and temp ga is back & blue lt is back on. Clock works, tach works. Upshift arrow is occasionally on even tho' I by-passed the solenoid sw a yr ago. Tranny shifts in and out of OD as seems right for speed and load. Recently the fuel gauge doesn't register anything for a few minutes upon start-up, and then will give an accurate reading for as long as the car is running. Seat belt/door open chime doesn't work but recently the big blue relay always steadily ticks whether the door is open or the seat belts are clasped or not. No blown fuses.
I'm trying to have an open mind for anything, and I appreciate all feedback and suggestions. Gotta get this brick to be strong, steady and reliable!
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I've been driving at moderate speeds and acceleration 'cause I don't want the engine to get hot hot. So far it's been re-starting warm. But I'm not confident for 99% reliability.
Iv'e reread some FAQs on instrument panel elec, gauge, and indicator/exciter lights erratic/no function. So asap I will remove the instr panel and clean it, put on my reading glasses and look for solder faults. Speedo sender wires have been disconnected for 2 yrs. Recently the fuel gauge only starts giving a reading 2 - 10 minutes after start up. See my prev post just above for details on small? elec & instrument malfunctions.
Any suggestions for a spray cleaner if necessary? I have a soldering pencil and rosin core electrical solder.
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Do a simple test. You just need a garden hose. When I hear "engine starts when engine is cold (such as first thing in the morning) AND engine won't start when engine is hot (such as when car is sitting out in sun or just recently running up to temperature even after short errands)", I think about the starter/solenoid. So, when you start the car when it is cold, drive it around town for twenty minutes and park it in your driveway. Fetch the garden hose and after several minutes start the car. If it doesn't start, take the garden hose and direct the spray onto just the starter/solenoid to cool it off down to ambient air. Now, attempt to start the car. If the engine starts, you have a starter/solenoid problem.
This was a problem on my '90 760 and my diagnosis. Just a simple test - just add water.
For the fun of Volvos,
Mike
--
'92 245DL, '90 760 GLT
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When I turn the key, whether warm or cold, the starter always immediately engages and spins the engine at its normal speed. So, if I "have a starter/solenoid problem" would that be effecting signals to ECU etc to prevent the right combination of ingredients to start, even though the starter is turning over the engine?
I'm going out to reset and check OBD codes now.
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3-2-1: Signal missing from Cold Start Valve. This is actually a GOOD sign. It indicates your car received the Volvo-prescribed Cold Start modification. That code can be expected to appear forever from that day forward.
2-2-1: O2 Sensor not working. This could be at least part of the problem. When you first start the car cold, the computer ignores the O2 Sensor reading because it knows the engine will be running extra rich. After a minute or two, and the engine approaches normal operating temperature, the computer will start looking at the O2 Sensor. You are correct that the Regina cars require a unique O2 sensor (Titania with built in pre-heater circuit.) There should be an extra wire or two running to the sensor, compared to a Bosch car, to power the pre-heater part of the sensor. Historically it has not been uncommon for some of the parts houses to sell the Bosch version O2 Sensor to people that actually need the Regina version. The Regina sensor is more expensive but normally lasts a very long time. I sold a 740 Regina a few years back that had 175,000 miles on it and still had the original (properly functioning) sensor. Check out what kind of sensor you have and also look at the condition of the wiring to make sure it isn't broken, shorting to ground, or simply unplugged.
1-2-3: Coolant temp sensor signal missing or faulty. Could be another part of the problem. A faulty sensor can cause bad running, but I don't know if it would prohibit the engine from even starting. The sensor can be removed from the engine and a resistance vs temperature test can be performed using water heated in a microwave oven, a cooking thermometer, and an ohm meter. I believe the 700/900 FAQ on this site makes mention of the proper resistance readings. Or you could try clearing the codes and see if it reappears.
Now here's a problem. The OBD system that is generating those fault codes is only capable of storing three codes at any given time. One of those three are going to be expended perpetually on the 3-2-1 code for cold start sensor. That only leaves capacity for two "valid" fault codes, which you have displayed. In reality there could be other faults that aren't displayed. One that comes to mind is for a faulty Crank Position or RPM Sensor (one in the same, just goes by different names. Its failure is quite common. And one of the indications is that the engine will start when cold, but won't want to start (no spark) when warm. So you need to start eliminating the causes of the two valid fault codes so that you can clear them and see if any new codes appear.
Another thing you need to determine is when the engine won't start, is it lacking spark or is it lacking fuel. Knowing that will cut the task of finding the problem in half.
Good luck!
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CPR replaced, fuel pump w new pre-filter reinstalled, grounds cleaned, wires OK to ECT (but didn't remove it for testing). Starts right up, runs OK, I let it run for 5 min at idle & med revs. Shut it off, try re-start I get a hesitant cough/spin and no start.
I had the batt disconnected for fuel pump work. After reconnection and running it twice for 5+ minutes I checked OBD codes twice in ports #2 and #6. all readings were 1-1-1. I haven't replaced the O2 sensor yet.
First I'm trying to disconnect the cold start injector, suspecting it's flooding when eng is warm. Then I'll check OBD codes again. That should give me a clue if the ECT sensor is faulty (wiring looks good). Connection was dirty and is very tight, difficult to push the conn lock fully open and pry to separate the two parts at the same time. Or if the O2 sensor is no good.
I will check if the plugs are wet or dry after the first attempt at warm restart.
I have a working ECT in my off-the-road '89 245 w B230F w EZK. I might try swapping today, Sunday, since parts stores are closed. Maybe more work than worth it - diagnose more first.
Anybody got more advice?
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I disconnected the Cold Start Injector, plus I cleaned the 2 ground conns on the fuel rail which I had missed before.
Eng was by now cold. I started it w key - a little hesitation as it coughed into running, then smoothed out. I ran it at fast idle for c. 7 mins. Shut it off, waited 45 secs, turned key and it started up and ran smoothly. Prob solved!!?? Ran it for 5 mins, shut it off for 15 secs, turned key and no start. Tried 3 more times to start - NG.
I checked OBD codes - #6: 1-1-1, #2: 3-2-1. Is it strange that 321 came back after prev readout of 111?
Tried again to start w key - no go. 10:50 PM. I'll come back tomorrow. Next to do:
Change O2 sensor.
Start eng and run to warm up. Leave CS Injector unplugged.
Shut off. Check OBD codes.
Attempt restart.
If it starts, reconnect CS injector, shut it off then try restart.
If it starts, Prob solved!! Maybe? Test drive for 10 mins, then try to start again. Check OBD.
If no restart check plugs - wet or dry?
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"Is it strange that 321 came back after prev readout of 111?"
• You must have mis-read that 111 because the 321 code is, in effect, permanently
hard-wired by the Cold Start modification -- unless something has happened to the wire from Starter to CS Valve is somehow hot (+12V) even after the starter stops cranking.(even so, I think the 321 code should persist, but I'm not sure.)
"If no restart check plugs - wet or dry?"
• I hope the answer to that tells us something.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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I changed the O2 sensor. I installed the new Bosch sp plug wire set. I started it cold w CSI still disconnected. It took 2.5 seconds to fire, then ran steady and smoothed out as it warmed up in 2 - 3 mins. Ran it to get warm on the temp gauge for 8 more mins. I shut it off. OBD #6 1-1-1, #2 3-2-1, 2-2-1.
After 30 secs no restart. 20 secs no restart.
I pulled all 4 plugs. None was wet w gas. All had slight gray powder on electrode metal which I rubbed of easily w a clean cloth. Reinstall all.
Try restart - 1 second, quick cough, then fired up and ran smoothly. After 2 mins I shut off and then it restarted.
I reconnected the CSI. It started right up 2 more times, I then drove it 50 m to park in a safe place to not block the driveway. In 30 mins it started again.
Is it poss the O2 sensor was what was needed and the ECU or ICU needed running time to adjust?
Lucid, you mentioned the RSR, I'm not sure where that is. Also there is a metal box c. 2/3 size of a cig pack located at the strut tower, driver side w a thin vac line from intake manifold and a 3 wire conn Brn/Blk, Blue/Red, Blue/Blk. I don't know what it is. Are wiring diagrams in Bentley Book for 240 B230F same as for a 740 B230F? w Regina?
I'm going to drive to PO and back, 2 miles. Then I'll drive out for a 30 mi errand run, get gas etc. I'll report back.
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"Lucid, you mentioned the RSR, I'm not sure where that is. Also there is a metal box c. 2/3 size of a cig pack located at the strut tower, driver side w a thin vac line from intake manifold and a 3 wire conn Brn/Blk, Blue/Red, Blue/Blk. I don't know what it is."
That's the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. It's a key FI player, which along with the intake Air Temp sensor, are the main inputs the ECU's fuel system control -- much like the Bosch system's AMM.
The 221 code might be a leftover from the old O2 sensor, if you didn't reset the codes. You did get the correct new sensor, right?
The RSR is on the right side inner fender near the headlight, clipped up out of (easy) sight behind a bundle of wires. Here's a pic:
It directs battery 12V to the injectors when the key is ON. The ECU then controls the Injector ground side to time the FI pulses. I have my RSR bypassed with a heavy wire connecting the thicker RED and GREEN-RED wires at the connector plug.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Right, I will reset OBD and check again. Then longer test drive.
Do you loose radio static suppression if you jump wire the RSR? I'm going to put in a radio once the 740 is running reliably. I've noticed the RSR at Rt Front.
New O2 Sensor is Titania, specified for Regina.
Knowing what the MAP is I will replace the soft rubber elbows at both ends of the hard thin plastic vac line. Are Air Temp Sensor and MAP specific to Regina? All my other Bricks have AMM and Bosch ignition.
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"Do you loose radio static suppression if you jump wire the RSR?"
• I don't think so, assuming the RSR lives up to it's name. Because the jumper just insures that the injector voltage is always available, like an RSR that is always activated. The injector's ECU-controlled ground side is always open when the Key is Off.
>"Are Air Temp Sensor and MAP specific to Regina?"
• Yes. My guess is that it's a legal issue precluding Bendix-Seimans from using any Bosch products in their Fuel and Injection control systems. As to why Volvo chose to go with the non-Bosch system (seemingly out of the blue) it's a mystery to me. But after 11 years with my 940 Rex-Regina, I find it totally the equal of the Bosch equivalent.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Thanks Chris, Excellent info, claro! I'll re-read and integrate this w what Lucid posted. I'm expecting the O2 sensor tomorrow.
I'll check the wires and connection to the ECT sensor.
The FAQs have been very helpful. My 740 Chilton only goes to 1988, so I don't have full description of my 1990 w Regina. I've tried to extrapolate some from the Bentley book for 1990s 240s w B230F, w caution.
Thanks again to all posts on BB - I've learned so much.
Steve
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Hi Steve,
Right after a warm start failure, pull a couple of plugs to see if they are dry vs wet with gas. That might focus things a bit.
Start-Run Sequence LH 2.4
1) During starter cranking, the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) sends timing pulses to the Ignition Control Unit (ICU).
2-a) The ICU sends these CPS pulses to the Power Stage (aka Ignition Amplifier), to initiate spark voltage pulses from the coil. The IA is built into the massive coil mount on your Rex Ign. Pretty much rock-solid compared to the more frequent Bosch IA heat sink problems.
2-b) At the same time, the ICU also propagates these CPS-based pulses to the Fuel ECU to allow FI operation (no ICU pulses means no FI operation).
3-a) The Fuel "System"* relay (previously energized at Key On) sends 12V power to the:
• Fuel ECU,
• Fuel (pump) relay coil + side (ECU controls coil ground)
• Idle Air Control valve (IAC) (ECU controls coil ground)
• 700/900 only, the Radio Suppression Relay (RSR), which in turn powers the + side of the Injectors. (injector ground side controlled by the ECU). The RSR can be by-passed with a jumper in the connector, if suspected (no fuel to plugs).
* The System (aka Main) relay is in the white case with the Fuel pump relay.
3-b) When ICU pulses are received by the FI ECU, it "energizes" the Fuel pump relay by grounding the relay coil (– side) to power the fuel pump.
When all these things work, the engine runs until the Ignition is switched off, which in turn shuts down the FI system.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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I've finished the JB Weld reinforcement of the fuel pump lines and will reinstall w new filter today.
Put in new CPR sensor, surprisingly easy on the 740. Incl cleaning lots of oily dirt off, the replacement took 16 mins.
Next I'll try to start it. If no start I'll check plugs for wet or dry, then check OBD codes.
I have the new O2 sensor, will swap that today too.
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Thx Bruce, I'll read your thorough Info again slowly, eat a sandwich and then go back out to the car to go through the sequences.
I've just finished cleaning all grounds in the engine compartment, none was corroded. I replaced 2 small diameter vac hoses on the manifold which were a little soft on the ends. The three long lines to the charcoal pot seem tight.
I've removed the fuel pump - lots of rust where the lines pass thru but no breaks or pin holes. I tried to remove the banjo bolt on the outflow fitting but the whole fitting rotated 1/4 turn without the bolt coming loose. I rotated it back to orig position but I might have broken the seal or solder joint as it passes thru the cover plate. The filter/sock for the pump wasn't clogged, looked almost clean. No water in the tank, there is a 1/2 teaspoon of grit/sand at the bottom of the tank in the baffled area under the pump. Thinking I'll leave it there. Gasoline is clean and 1 week old.
My parts which I ordered Monday afternoon from FCP and Rock..... didn't arrive today.
I plan to seal the outflow fitting w JB Weld, as well as reinforce around all the other penetrations thru the cover plate. 4 out of 6 I've seen have broken lines due to rust. I fixed one for a few yrs in my old '76 245 w JB Weld, then the rust won. I expect Volvo would use better materials here.
Rain due here at midnight, car is outside. Back to it.
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How is your fuel pressure ?
Greg
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Thanks Greg,
I haven't measured it -no gauge- but the pump pushed gas out of the tank to the fuel filter quite well. I didn't see that the screen/filter on the in-tank pump is listed as a separate part to replace. Maybe I should pull out the pump and make sure the screen is clean and clear.
When I pulled the vac hose off the FPR there was no gas to drip out.
Maybe I should open the fuel line at the fuel rail to check flow. What gauge do I need to get to measure the pressure, and what is an acceptable range?
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