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My '75 164 had a real bad time on the highway recently. I just heard that the engine is going to need to come out and get rebuilt. If you all have ideas for what I should do while it's out (camshafts, exhaust, etc.), let me know. The shop has also floated the idea of putting in a T5 engine built up pretty well. Having previously owned an 850r, I love this idea but it would require significantly more money in R&D. But, then I'd end up with much better fuel economy and might I also get better A/C performance, too?
I am *not* on an unlimited budget and this is NOT a project I'd anticipated, so I'm now torn between these two options. If any of you have resources on a swap that would significantly cut down on the R&D labor required, I'd appreciate that, too!
While keeping it "original" is a desire of mine, I am really very okay with making things a LOT better and I'd be happier doing it with a Volvo engine swap than a non-volvo. Dropping in a Ford crate motor is *not* how I want to do this.
More importantly... does anyone have a line on a donor car with B30F and an m410?
Thank you all, very much!
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I've got a '72 E that I'd let go reasonably inexpensively. Ran when parked :)
Originally auto, converted to M41. At time of conversion, the tranny was supposedly rebuilt (it is quieter than most), at some point, engine was rebuilt. Rear end was also used from the donor car to keep gear ratios correct for the M41.
I probably lost the pile of receipts I got with the car.
Problem is location. I'm assuming you're in the Chicago area. This car is 1000 miles from there, and it's in a pretty hard to access place on top of that.
If converting from an auto, this would have most of your parts. But the pedal assembly might be different.
forcefieldmatt-at-gmail
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-Matt I ♥ my ♂
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posted by
someone claiming to be cdu
on
Tue Jul 29 11:31 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
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What's actually wrong with the motor? "Badly Broken" is a hard claim to believe.
Worn out cams, sure, I could believe that. That's an easy fix -- drain the oil, yank the lifters, get a new cam.
Broken cam gear, that's also totally easy to believe -- it is a wear item. If the shop doesn't realize the cam gear is just a big fiber gear, they may think it is a serious thing that it is broken.
Did you drive the car for a couple years with a broken front pulley damper?
These redblock motors are seriously hard to break. I want to see a picture of a broken crank or a connecting rod sticking out of the side of the block.
chris
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The first thing is to determine just why it needs to be rebuilt. Who made that call and can they be trusted. Anyone who makes that call should have a good idea of what is damaged and if its the block and crankshaft find another engine.
You should drop the idea of swapping in another engine right now. Any shop that "floats" that idea has no idea what they are talking about. For the kind of money that would cost you can buy a fifteen year old Lexus LS 400.
If you are looking for an M410 box maybe it means your 164 presently has an automatic. Don't even think of a trans swap. Fix the engine IF it is explained to you properly and do no more.
Maybe move on to another car rather than stuffing any more good money up the present ones tailpipe.
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The car is in very good shape and I love it. It needs to be rebuilt because it suddenly found itself without any oil while cruising on the highway. The block and crank are pretty badly damaged. The shop absolutely has an idea what they are doing. Getting rid of the car is not an option - I'd always anticipated rebuilding every part of this car and am just now on an accelerated schedule with the engine/transmission part of things. My car currently has the BW35 automatic - I'm not happy with it. I'd like to keep an auto, just not that one. I'm also willing to go with manual for the increased mpg and performance along with the reduced cost of putting it all in.
Any ideas, thoughts, leads, resources are definitely welcome. Thanks!
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Hey I get the 164 thing. They are great cars, and if you want to keep it I understand.
What makes them great is that engine so finding a rebuildable B30 should be the goal. Mill the cylinder head to get the compression up. Specs for B20 head thickness will do.
The BW35 is not great, but at least they are cheap to rebuild. If you really want a manual, then you'll probably have to get a six bolt crank B30. I've heard tell of a manual eight bolt, but I've never seen one. And you'll need the pedal bracket assembly and a cable and a front driveshaft.
If you're not ready to move on to a different model or brand, those are my ideas.
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Great - thanks for that info. I've got a line on two different 164s that are in good shape for what I need and they're both cheap enough to make sense. One's even got factory cruise control! Both are automatics, though... :(
I'm going to scour some more and then make a decision.
Thank you!
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Here are a few options
Boat with AQ170 (B30) for $750 http://fargo.craigslist.org/boa/4586212314.html
Good Disassembled B30 for $100 http://york.craigslist.org/pts/4569976335.html
Volvo 164 M410 with OD for $150 http://wilmington.craigslist.org/pts/4572924816.html
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1959 Volvo Amazon 121, 1998 Volvo V70R AWD
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Awesome, thanks! I've also got a line on a complete car with an M410 originally installed. What sort of questions do I need to ask to make sure it's a good donor candidate?
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I have a few you can ask:
Does the overdrive work?
What gears have bad syncros?
Is it complete?
Is it injected and does it start?
What happened to your motor?
I had a 74 164E M400 with 3.54 rear with a mildly tweaked B30E, it would indicate 6300rpm/130mph and get 240 miles from a tank. The auto version is a big slug compared to a 164 Manual.
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69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual
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Those are great questions, thanks! I'll be talking to the guy later today. I finally got a picture and it had been stripped for paint long ago, so I'll add my own question - Where are the bumpers and grilles? :)
Can you speak to whether I should swap the rear end, as well?
I think I remember that with the automatic rear end (already in my car), it will have more pep around town. Will that translate to better economy around town? I do about 130 miles per week (and have to fill up nearly every week!) and 90% of that is purely city driving. I'd like to eek out mpgs wherever that aligns with driveability and "fun".
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How many miles are on the car? I would at least check the compression and look under the rocker cover for oil buildup. Hopefully the car hasn't just been sitting.
I have a never owned a B30, but I can just imagine that rebuilding one could get quite expensive depending on what you want. I would just be careful with whatever you buy, there is a lot of junk out there.
I bought a "low mileage" B20 for $1000 that I was going to swap right in; it came with everything. After a quick disassembly/ inspection I found the engine was fairly abused and wasn't even good enough to get rebuilt. I was only able to salvage the head. Got a replacement "low mileage" block for $200 and the crankshaft was bad, and the block needed over bored enough that I had to order custom forged pistons. My old engine ran; it was just worn out. After 1.5 years, I will finally have the engine all back together again.
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1959 Volvo Amazon 121, 1998 Volvo V70R AWD
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