My OBD codes pop-up with 2-1-4 continuously (RPM sensor signal missing intermittently or no signal). Replaced RPM sensor three times,still the code persists. I have changed the plugs, wires, distributor & peripherals.

The engine starts but won't idle and at high RPM's misses intermittently. The engine burns very rich, and at times will back fire into the intake. Changed both fuel pumps, relay works fine. ETC is new and works. I don't think it's the FI module since the engine does start. All the vacuum hoses have been replaced.
I replaced the injectors also. I don't see any fuel in the oil. Coil is good, and with a noid light the injectors show consistent electrical power.


Been working on this issue for several months now and am at a point where I have done everything except tear the engine down to the bare block.
.
So send me any and all feedback on this issue please.
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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

You mentioned the ECT sensor is new. Why was it replaced? Did your symptoms just start out of no where? There are actually 2 different ECT sensors, one black and one blue. If you have the wrong one, some of your symptoms will occur.

Edit: Yours should be black in color.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

the ECT was the first sensor I suspected a few months in the past. After researching possible causes this was one of the first to jump out. As it turns out however, this wasn't (isn't) the cause of the issue at all. This sensor is black in color. Also the resistance is consistent with the specs in the Volvo manual & FAQ's.

I believe it has something to do with the electrical components somehow. I solved the CPS issue and re-installed the transmission, so the timing is good. the coil has good resistance as per the specs.
It could be the power stage, but I've replaced it, and there is no difference in the starting or the engine running consistently.
I'm wondering if it isn't the FICU but I have exchanged that with another, with no change.
I rewired the connector of the RPM sensor to the FICU computer, and this may have been one cause of the engine not running consistently.
I will post the resolution when it comes about.
Thanks for the help.
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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

Hello Volvosenior,

I suspect your issue is something electrical not mechanical (this you have made it right - regarding the tone ring). If you could check the wiring loom connectors from the engine side to inside the car. Could be some corrosion there. Some of these wires ground the ignition amplifier and FICU.

I could be mistaken but these could have been overlooked all this while.

Regards,
Amarin.

the ECT was the first sensor I suspected a few months in the past. After researching possible causes this was one of the first to jump out. As it turns out however, this wasn't (isn't) the cause of the issue at all. This sensor is black in color. Also the resistance is consistent with the specs in the Volvo manual & FAQ's.

I believe it has something to do with the electrical components somehow. I solved the CPS issue and re-installed the transmission, so the timing is good. the coil has good resistance as per the specs.
It could be the power stage, but I've replaced it, and there is no difference in the starting or the engine running consistently.
I'm wondering if it isn't the FICU but I have exchanged that with another, with no change.
I rewired the connector of the RPM sensor to the FICU computer, and this may have been one cause of the engine not running consistently.
I will post the resolution when it comes about.
Thanks for the help.
--
89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

the ECT was the first sensor I suspected a few months in the past. After researching possible causes this was one of the first to jump out. As it turns out however, this wasn't (isn't) the cause of the issue at all. This sensor is black in color. Also the resistance is consistent with the specs in the Volvo manual & FAQ's.

I believe it has something to do with the electrical components somehow. I solved the CPS issue and re-installed the transmission, so the timing is good. the coil has good resistance as per the specs.
It could be the power stage, but I've replaced it, and there is no difference in the starting or the engine running consistently.
I'm wondering if it isn't the FICU but I have exchanged that with another, with no change.
I rewired the connector of the RPM sensor to the FICU computer, and this may have been one cause of the engine not running consistently.
I will post the resolution when it comes about.
Thanks for the help.
--
89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

What ECU is installed? Are you clearing the codes by removing the fuse?
Dan

the ECU is a 565 or something like that. No I didnt clear the codes that way the battery was disconnected, or I would just clear the memory of the OBD unit.
I am wondering how much influence the battery has upon the electrical system as a whole?
In other words, if the battery is low in voltage will there be a direct influence upon the malfunction of the various sensors?
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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

Clearing codes by pushing the button has never seemed to work for me, so I pull the fuse it's quicker than taking a battery cable off.

A fully charged battery is required for the electronics, I would start there.

Dan

Thanks Dan. I will keep this advice as another tip to use when I check codes. Appreciate the response.
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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

the only time is saw 214 is when the tone ring on the flywheel got dinged and screwed up the signal to the ecu. but, that car wouldn't start. i'd pull the screens in the bellhousing and turn the engine over slow and inspect the flywheel 360 degrees. mine was dinged about 180 from tdc. i scoped the signal from the sensor and it never gave me a decent wave form. good luck, chuck.

i took the tranny out last year,but I don't think the flywheel was touched. i replaced the rear seal at the time.
the car ran fine for a long while after ward then other things started cropping up-TPS went out, IAC went out. Throttle body needed cleaning, exhaust gaskets had to be replaced (the o2 sensor went haywire cuz of a leak in the down pipe).
I drove to a neighboring town last November and the ground wire to the alternator was loose. Of course i ran the battery way down, and had to have the car towed home. I wasn't aware of the loose connection until the next day- Soon after that the engine began to die when I would stop, like at a stop-lite. Finally one day it just stopped all together, in the driveway, fortunately.
I wondered at the time if there had been damage to the ECU by driving only on battery power?
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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

Hello Volvosenior,

Rest assured. I can vouch for no damage to the ECU when using only battery power. When my alternator ground wire had bad contact last time, I drove the car till the battery became flat. After repaired the ground wire and bought new battery the car was back to its usual state. This is Bosch LH2.4 with EZ116k.

Regards,
Amarin.

Thanks Amarin, this is good information to know. I was concerned that damage had been done to the electronics, but from all the responses I see that the quality of fabrication is very excellent in these cars. I want to keep this one running along for awhile.
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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

"i took the tranny out last year,but I don't think the flywheel was touched. i replaced the rear seal at the time."

I'm not a 700 guy, but I'm having a little trouble understanding this. In other words, how could the engine's rear main seal be replaced without removing and re-installing the flywheel or flex plate? Or were you talking about the transmission's rear seal?

Anyhow, I've followed some threads on this board to learn the engine will start and run with the flywheel clocked 45 degrees off. Quite a computer there, that EZ-116K. You can check it through the starter hole - that's where the index should be at #1 TDC, or like I did, through the CPS sensor hole (little finger) by counting 13 openings as you carefully turn rotate the engine CCW from TDC. If you do go through the sensor bracket, take out the spark plugs. I don't want to hear you sheared off the end of your finger when compression released.

The slow deterioration is not explained by this, but it brings to mind my experience with out of box failures with crank sensors. Obviously you didn't take it for granted new=good if you're on your fourth, but I did learn the Bougicord Electricfil brand is not enough to earn my trust.

Before any of this, I'd take Chuck's experience seriously regarding the tone ring. It needs to be undamaged and, of course, firmly attached to the flex plate and crankshaft.




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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Being young is beautiful, but being old is comfortable.

I checked the index through the starter hole on the engine block. It was off ,so I took off the transmission and redid the flywheel and the timing ring. I replaced the oil seal last year, using a foreign made seal. The gasket was missing on the bracket around the seal. I noticed that when I initially replaced the seal last year. I bought a "Timken" seal and gasket set, and placed them in/on the engine. I noticed a small oil leak after I did this same job last year, after the engine was driven a few miles. Now I know why, the reason being the gasket was missing.
Today I'm going to see how and if the engine runs. I'll post photos later.
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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

well this is the answer, or so it appears. there is no other explanation. Would you tell me please where in the FAQ's is there a procedure in re-installation of the ring gear/toothed flywheel ring ? If it does even exist?
I see in the Volvotips manual where there are procedures to change the ring itself.I suppose i could follow this procedure?
Your comments are well appreciated.
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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

Never done it myself. May be this will help.

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineMechanical.htm#FlywheelPositiononReinstallation

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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

I used that link several times- my trouble is that I wasn't sure if the reference arrow on the flywheel/timing ring installs at 12 o'clock or at pointing at the RPM sensor bracket.
So I installed it at 12 o'clock and it's not right- I believe it has to install pointing at the RPM sensor.

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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

Hey thanks for the link. I was searching for such a page.
helps a lot.
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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

"well this is the answer, or so it appears. there is no other explanation."

You said you were going to check it yesterday afternoon. How did you wind up determining the flex plate is clocked wrong? Did you use my suggestion? The way you put it, sounds more like you arrived at this point via Sir A. Conan Doyle's Possibility Elimination process. The work involved in re-clocking the flexplate deserves a more positive verification. Check the index. Be clear about it.

FAQ's?? I would guess this does not qualify as a frequently asked question. Maybe there's something on getting the timing ring back on correctly in there, I don't know myself.


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Art Benstein near Baltimore

If you don't learn to laugh at trouble, you won't have anything to laugh at when you are old.

Ok so I re-set the timing and flywheel plate. I checked and double-checked the distributor to make sure it is in the correct position. Now when I try and start the engine no spark- it won't fire at all.
I just took off the starter again and the two-hole void on the timing ring is just at the bottom of the starter hole. The engine is at TDC. could I possibly be off one bolt hole to the exhaust side of the engine?

I have photos but not sure how to upload them to this site.
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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

Good answers there Art. Oh yes I did take out the ring and the flywheel- but I was trying to remember the experience since it was so long ago-March of 2013- I have photos of the ordeal- I had to re-install the transmission with the old broken kick-down cable bc I couldn't find a replacement- discovered them on eBay-
anyway- you have a point there- I will inspect the flywheel and ring this afternoon- but....something tells me I may have re- installed it incorrectly-
I could post some good advice on what not to do and shortcuts I've learned from doing all of that- removing trans mission, working on the exhaust, changing out the intermediate bearing, dropping the oil pan- replacing the bushings in the rear end...all fun stuff.
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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

if low voltage was the problem, there'd be more posts with your problem AND you'd likely have more codes. only ecu/voltage problems i've seen are from too much voltage-like 16v, not from too little.

how did you test the coil and find it's good? ohm tests will pass a bad coil. you need a spark tester.

any chance you have chinese parts on it, especially the new parts? oe for the speed sensor and i've never had a bad 1 out of the box. bosch only for cap and rotor, bosch or ngk copper plugs, no platinum. oe or bougicord wires only, not even bosch wires.

the 1 i had was the bolt from a previous speed sensor change was dropped into the bellhousing and laid there for months before getting spit somehow into the tone ring. if the screens are out, a rock could've kicked up into the bellhousing.

not saying my past is the only reason for 214, just the 1 time for me and i've replaced dozens of speed sensors. it COULD be a reaction to the flywheel bucking about while it's trying to run and NOT the real reason. a scope would be nice. had an 88 735 that kept throwing codes for the airflow meter. bmw issued a bulletin-if you have this code, check the speed senor on the ft. of the crank pulley. the mount gets loose and the sensor slides into the pulley, causing a hard start, poor idle and accel. the ecu couldn't decide what the airflow meter was doing and threw the code. the airflow meter door was swinging back and forth too fast and in a manner the ecu didn't like. the point is, the code might not be the cause, just a reaction.

start with the basics, check the timing belt with covers off, no crank pulley marks, they move with age. get a spark tester and be sure you 30-40kv available and start AT the coil, going to the cap, then the plugs. check fuel pressure and volume. gotta be there somewhere. good luck, chuck.

Chuck,
a little late getting back to you but I wanted to tell you that I did all that you suggested and it all helped.
However, the car is not running as of this date. It did run a couple of days ago, I drove it about 14 miles, and filled the tank with gas, while I was out. But it stalled, and I had a difficult time starting again. Finally got it going, but it's been sitting for the past few days. The plugs are black with carbon, and wet with gas.

I think(?) I may have the timing ring in the wrong position again, although it seemed to me that there was only one way it could actually install. I checked the timing again, and the position of the rotor, changed the power stage and new plugs- but it won't start. Kicks over good, and has spark. but with the timing light it is off the marks. My gut instinct says it could be the timing gear,so I 'm doing more research.
These Volvo's can be real brain twisters.


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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

Thanks- great stuff-
yeah I tested the coil with an ohmmeter and the power stage too- I thought the wiring had gone bad at the connections for the RPM sensor so I changed the wiring out too- I tested an alternate FI module- but I don't think (pretty sure) that's not where I need to look-
Like you and Art say I'll check the timing ring- I may have installed it incorrectly- can't remember..
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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626

has thing run right at all since the rear seal? if not, then pull the trans and reset the flywheel. i ASSUMED from your post it had run ok since and then went downhill. a flywheel off might set 214, don't know, never got it wrong. good luck, chuck.

the odd fact about this issue is the engine ran well right after I er-installed the transmission. In fact it ran really well. However the mpg was very poor and it began to stop at times. The O2 sensor light would come on and go out after a few minutes. never occurred to me to check the plugs. I did notice a build-up of black exhaust smoke around the pipe coupling to the silencer on the exhaust.
all this time i was trying to adjust the kick-down cable, not knowing that if the cable is broken it will not adjust correctly.
The short story is that finally the poor over-worked engine started to tell me something.
that something is that it is out of timing and running rich, which led to a build up of carbon deposits, which has brought me to this point. I just hope that I haven't done other damage to the engine un-wittingly.
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89-740 GLE_91-940 Sedan _98-V90 Wagon_2001Mazda626