My son was driving home tonight and the car lost propulsion. The auto tranny stopped working. We checked the tranny fluid and it is full. It will go into park, but none of the other gears work. If we shut the car off, we can then put it in drive or reverse and it will barely move for about 2 or 3 seconds. Then nothing.

Within the past year it has had the following:
1. New blower fan.
2. B cam
3. IPD lowering springs
4. New struts
5. New tires

It has a small rust hole on the driver's side rocker and is developing rust on the passenger side fender.
Besides that it normally runs fine and looks ok for an old car.

So is it worth getting the tranny fixed or having a used one installed?
Or should I cut my losses and part it out or sell it whole?

I can not swap a tranny so would need to have it towed to a shop.

Thanks for everyone's opinions and advice.

Tom

I drained the pan and dropped it. The screen filter was gunked up really bad. Not much fuzz on the magnet in the pan. Stupid design to have the dip stick mounted to the starter bolts. Almost as dumb as the blower fan....haha.

Installed a new screen filter. Filled it all back up with new fluid. Did 3 or 4 fill and dumps of the pan. I'll do several more fill and dumps tomorrow.

Checked the level and took it for a drive.

Tranny is running and shifting great. Overdrive solenoid is working fine. Seems good.

Is there anything I should be worried about?

What does the antifreeze look like if tranny fluid is getting into it?

Thanks to all for the help.

Tom

"Is there anything I should be worried about?"

That clogged filter screen would worry me.

I never had that problem myself, but have read posts describing it as being due to loosened fibers from disintegrating "clutch packs" — caused by coolant mixing with tranny fluid.


--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

"...describing it as being due to loosened fibers from disintegrating "clutch packs" — caused by coolant mixing with tranny fluid. "

We must have read the same post, because that is exactly how I envisioned the cause of a clogged screen.

Just supposing... just imagining... if that was a discovery on my car, I think I'd pressure test the radiator to test whether there was the possibility it was sharing the engine coolant with the transmission oil, even if I had already planned to replace the radiator. That heat exchanger is made of very thin metal, and it is the only support (i.e. backup or counter hold) for the flare fittings on the transmission cooler lines.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Wear short sleeves! Support your right to bare arms!

I didn't see any milkshake in the tranny fluid. Kinda looked like the color of a Dr. Pepper can. So I flushed out 6 quarts yesterday at the radiator return line and it is getting more cough syrup colored now. I'll get some more fluid and do another flush.

Looks like I also need to do a pressure test of the radiator to check for leaks there that would allow the coolant and tranny fluid to mix.

The inside of the radiator overflow reservoir looks fine. Coolant in there still looks like coolant.

Hi Tom,

I think that is an encouraging sign. The only doubt I have comes from the suspicion I have that the normal pressure in the ATF cooling circuit is usually lower than that in a fully pressurized engine cooling system (reservoir with black cap). This means, if I saw oil in the antifreeze, I'd first think head gasket. Truth is, I have very little Volvo experience with these symptoms, knock on wood. I feel better seeing Mike's offer over on TB. Sounds good. I also have an AW-70 in a car to be junked, but it WILL be junked -- because it was under water. Still recommend you check the old radiator carefully. Would be a tragedy if you got another AW-70 into the same fix.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

If life gives you llamas, make llamanade.

Hi Art.

If you'll pardon my getting off topic for a moment ... What am I looking at in the picture you provided? I don't recognize it as a 240.

I see the right side of the engine bay (unless the negative has been reversed), but also with a smaller coolant reservoir, and an ABS unit(?) there as well. Is this still a Volvo? One of the newer (than a 240) models? I've never poked around any newer Volvo (e.g., 850, etc.) except my daughter's '07 S60.

Thanks.

Yes, Ken, I apologized to Tom in a subsequent post you've most likely already seen now, for the example photo of testing coolant system pressure in a 940. It was a more frequent topic in years past because Volvo upped the pressure (and hence the cooling capacity) which seemed to put more stress on some of its plumbing -- especially the under-hood heater control valve. By testing at the hose, the cap's relief valve can be exercised.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore


The quickest way to double your money is to fold it in half and put it back in your pocket.

Once it got above 14 psi, coolant began coming out at the reservoir cap.

The radiator seems fine. I'll double check my records, but the radiator is probably 4 or 5 years old.

In the end I don't know what's happening and I don't know if I should get a different radiator. But I don't see any indication that the radiator is a problem.

I guess I could try to drop the pan again and check the filter screen in a few weeks to see if additional particulates are building up on it. But that doesn't sound fun at all.

I could sell the wagon now while it is running. Anybody want to buy it?

I'm looking into some options for another used transmission that hopefully my son would install at his high school auto shop.

Maybe the filter had never been changed, Just drive it and in another 5,000 km change the oil and filter again.

TSB 17106
Dec 1990

"ATF filter cleaning deleted"

for 200/700/900
for all those AW 70/70l/71/72L transmissions
and for ZFHP22
(Does NOT apply to BW*)

"It is NO LONGER REQUIRED [capitalized in original] to clean and inspect the Automatic Transmission Filter..."

Advised to still replace the ATF fluid at specified intervals, and to flush the transmission cooling system.



--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

1/2 price sale at pick-n-pull any in picknpull.com through the end of 9/1. Mine even does extended hours during the holiday weekend. They have online inventory.

We have two relatively fresh 240's on our lot. I could pull one for you and total cost with tax and core (which you would eat realistically) would probably end up about $90. Transportation would be your issue. If one of the is M46/47...you are SOL because I will be stealing it.

They have locations in Virginia Beach and would in RI (probably way too far). Not hard to pull in a junkyard when you are being less careful about all the stuff around the part that you have to reconnect later.

I hooked up a bunch of hoses to the top radiator tranny line and flushed 6 more quarts through the tranny. Fluid looks nice and red now.

Over the weekend I'll pressure test the radiator to see if it might be leaking coolant. Any suggestions for how to do that? I'm thinking I'll hook my Motive Power Bleeder to the radiator hose and pump it up and watch the pressure needle to see if it leaks.

I know, that picture in my previous post showed pressure being measured on a 940 cooling system. The gauge is tapped into the thin hose between the reservoir and the radiator.

However, I do still have the garden sprayer I used to pressurize the brake rez prior to acquiring the smaller Motive bottle, and I found it more useful on the 240s for pressure testing the engine coolant system.

Connecting it at the rez, you can up the test beyond the cap limit. I stop around 15 psi, because the black cap is less than 10. Normally I'm looking for any leaks I might have after doing a water pump, etc., but for this purpose, I'd find some small corks and completely disconnect the transmission cooler lines to see if pressurizing the radiator would blow bubbles in the ATF at the cooler.



As for the Motive, even if I didn't already own this old beast above, I'd probably want to run up to the hw store and pick up their cheapest garden sprayer rather than worry about thoroughly cleaning the brake bleeder and its hose. I found tiny corks in rubber and cork in those wide hardware drawers at HD and Lowes. Surely that Ace down by you has even better selections.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Did Noah keep his bees in archives?

Perfect Art! I may even be able to do that a try tonight.

I disconnected the transmission lines to the radiator and then applied 14 psi to the coolant side of the radiator. No loss of pressure. No evidence of coolant, air, or bubbles coming from the transmission line fittings on the radiator.

Sounds very encouraging. I have no other explanation for the clogged screen in the tranny. Not supposed to happen, I hear. The way I do things, I'd decide if the radiator looked good enough to continue service and just keep an eye on things. Beats trying to sell* a 20 year old car with a broken transmission.

*Except, perhaps, to Crazy Ray's/LKQ
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Never test the depth of the water with both feet.

"What does the antifreeze look like if tranny fluid is getting into it?"

Pink fluid floating in the reservoir.

"Did 3 or 4 fill and dumps of the pan. I'll do several more fill and dumps tomorrow."

Why not just do the flush in the FAQ's? So much easier.

Yes, I am planning to do more fill and dumps tomorrow with the remaining fluid I have.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Tom

Flush of 12 -15 quarts is much easier and far more effective than what you are doing.

Dan

Last year on a trip home from Ohio, I got to my driveway and was backing up and she gave up the ghost. Lost gears 2, 3, and Over drive. All I had was 1st and reverse.

I opted to pull the transmission and put in a manual. Yes a lot of work, but I had had it with the slushomatic.

Another option you have is buying a rebuild kit and doing it yourself. Its not that difficult and would by and far be the cheapest route, but then I tend to do all things myself.

I'd keep her if I were you.

Regards,

Matt

P.S. Your not far from me. Send me a private message if you run into another other headaches. There isn't to much that I haven't done on this car.

Once had to buy an AW70 for a 240 about 20 years ago. The Volvo replacement cost me $1600 and is still good. Labor was about $500. You can probably get a tranny shop, other than AAMCO, where u pay for the TV ads, to rebuild yours for about $1000 with a year warranty. Or you can buy used for $300 - $500 and swing it in yourself or have it done. The tranny is very heavy, I have an AW71 in storage from a 780 and I can pick it up with two hands. Tranny is just in difficult location, center of vehicle, to get it without a lift although some do. I would opt for rebuild at tranny shop and buy extended warranty for a few hundred more. Rocker panel and fender can be replaced through Mill. Supply Co in Ohio? Google them. Body shop can mig weld on rocker and fender is only bolts. Paint is also relatively cheap. Remember they aren't building anymore 240s, although there is a hell of them still out there !

Once had to buy an AW70 for a 240 about 20 years ago. The Volvo replacement cost me $1600 and is still good. Labor was about $500. You can probably get a tranny shop, other than AAMCO, where u pay for the TV ads, to rebuild yours for about $1000 with a year warranty. Or you can buy used for $300 - $500 and swing it in yourself or have it done. The tranny is very heavy, I have an AW71 in storage from a 780 and I can pick it up with two hands. Tranny is just in difficult location, center of vehicle, to get it without a lift although some do. I would opt for rebuild at tranny shop and buy extended warranty for a few hundred more. Rocker panel and fender can be replaced through Mill. Supply Co in Ohio? Google them. Body shop can mig weld on rocker and fender is only bolts. Paint is also relatively cheap. Remember they aren't building anymore 240s, although there is a hell of them still out there !

Sounds like some kind of Sudden hydro failure !

Possible causes

Torque converter internally worn
Main pump bad
seals in the clutch packs let go

She's toast

Find another transmission that has fluid on the dipstick that looks
like cherry soda and have it installed.

If you shop around you may find a deal on a transmission from a volvo guru
who put a good one aside and no longer needs it.

Good Luck!

jack the car on 4 jackstand or cribbing so all wheels are off the ground.

with a light crawl under enough on the drivers side to clearly view the shifter linage as it enters the side of the transmission.

have someone go through the gear slowly one at a time and observe the lever attached to the transmission.

you can also start the car and do this as the wheels move forwards, backwards or not at all.

just confirm all the linakge is actually functioning before scrapping the transmission.

i find is hard to envision one of the aw70's losing all gears simultaneously

I agree. AW70's die for two reasons...coolant contamination and excessive abuse in the guise of deferred maintenance...like for 150K-250K miles.

I vote, linkage check, flush and check the real tranny fluid level. I have had an AW70 temporarily loose forward momentum when the pan was too low on fluid and the pump cavitated (delayed tailshaft bushing replacement).

It will cost you a bit but a full 12 - 15 quart flush according to the FAQ's might just get you going again
Dan

It sounds like you are on your way to resolving this, but on a broader scale, it sounds like the car is in decent shape. I would replace the transmission. Or have your son do it.

That's the way we all learned mechanics. Practice. When I was 19 I had a '73 Opel that I could remove and reinstall the gearbox in about 45 minutes. Transmissions are sort of heavy, awkward, and usually oily, but very straightforward to change. A great first big automotive project for a kid.

Greg

Pull the pan and have a look before you do anything. Maybe just a clogged filter.

Shifter linkage is missing the bushings. Still seems to move ok though.
I was able to drive the car up into my garage but now it's not moving anymore for some reason.
I just drained the pan. Brownish red color.
Off to the auto parts store to get a pan gasket, filter, and fluid.

My advice is get a guaranteed 90 day tranny out of a pick and pull and change it out.

Hello,

How's the appearance of the tranny fluid compared to new fresh one? Also when did the fluid was last changed?

I suspect this transmission is quite hardy...its achilles heel is the fluid.

Regards,
Amarin.