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I'm looking for a daily driver to replace a car that got totaled, but I have a back up 1980 DL in my garage that I can use.
Someone locally is selling a 1988 240 DL with an automatic (not sure if it has over-drive), non-turbo, supposedly 105k miles (unsure if odometer works), driver's door hinge needs welding, no recent smog check, minor-moderate issues that I can take care of (brakes, fuel pump, AC needing Freon), but needing an AMM (unsure how he knows that) and no smog in the past year.
I haven't found any postings about common issues with 1988s. What might those be?
My goal is to get the car cheaply and fix up anything that needs repairs. I have a project 240 stored in my garage that I finished restoring last night, so I could use that as a daily driver and make the 1988 as a project car.
By law, seller is obligated to provide a passing smog test, though DMV will gladly allow buyer to buy and take over registration/liability absent a passing smog test.
If I were buying a non-Volvo, I would insist on a passing smog test, because I don't know all the newfangled smog components. I presume common smog problems in the 240s are the head gasket blown, oxygen sensor, timing, fuel injection computer, and catalytic converter. Is there anything else?
Sellers HATE smogging cars, presumably due to the extra few dollars in fees and 30 minutes of time involved (LOL) or more likely the risk of failing smog and having to pay a lot to repair it or sell it for less. Thoughts about telling seller I'll do smog and pay for any repairs that might come up, in exchange for a much lower price?
Seller's story for selling is that his son drives the car and wants a Toyota, presumably due to better mileage and easier to find parking. Seller might resist a low-ball offer with the excuse that they haven't found a replacement car. Any thoughts on my transferring title and/or give me an option to buy for a low-ball price and having a written contract that they fully insure the car (including comprehensive and collision), pays all deductibles for damage, indemnify me for any injuries from accidents, and transfer the car to me within 60 days?
I can always make it non-operational and wait until I get the time and parts, though I'd prefer having it ready to go, of course.
I'm skeptical of the mileage, so I'll check the amount of wear on the brake pedal. Any other collateral inspections I can do to confirm mileage?
In my garage, I have an AW70, AW71, or AW71L transmission (1*08320 purple sticker on top), that I bought a few years back with pink tranny fluid on purchase from a totaled Volvo. Are all three trannies compatible with this 1988 automatic Volvo?
Feedback and other thoughts?
Thanks!
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Sun Sep 21 18:10 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
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1987 and 1988 were the last years with the Hall Sensor aka Volvo/Chrysler ignition system. You can manually adjust the timing, by turning the distributor.
After that 89 on, switched to a Crack Sensor which takes the RPMs from the Flywheel. There is no user timing adjustment.
There are modifications to the vaccum advance in the 87-88 system that will radically change the NOX readings.
Do a Search: Hi NOX readings. Lucid made the posting.
Also, Tweeking the timing can get you thru the NOX part of the emissions test.
NOX is the bain of B230 engines...in the 200, 700, 900 series.
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"I haven't found any postings about common issues with 1988s. What might those be?" With two exceptions, the same as the 1989-1993's:
The AMM is relatively speaking rare
No ODBI to help with diagnostics (not always a bad thing)
"I presume common smog problems in the 240s are the head gasket blown, oxygen sensor, timing, fuel injection computer, and catalytic converter. Is there anything else?"
Actually only one of these is "common" on a 240 for failing emissions. Most common are:
Vacuum leaks
temperature sensor
AMM
O2 sensor
failed or marginal catalytic converter
Vacuum leaks
and finally, vacuum leaks
There tons of reasons not to buy this car based on your description but maybe you are only giving us the "bad" and not the good. A 1989-1992 240 sedan runs between $900 and $1900 for rough to very good cars while a wagons can run as much as $1000 more. Depending on your market these prices may be low (Seattle) or way high (rural Arkansas). ?Is this car in the $500 range?
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Thanks to both of you for your replies.
I do NOT have a torque converter for the tranny; is a replacement torque converter harmful to the tranny? Can I buy new, or is a used torque converter okay?
The only positives that I know of are that the title's clean, the last smog was 1 year ago, and presumably it has a valid registration. In all fairness, I focused on the negatives in my e-mail to seller.
The need to weld the driver's door (scheduled for next weekend) is a red flag in my as to serious rust, as I've never encountered that. Am I incorrect?
Seller and I have not discussed price. I'm in sunny California, where everyone thinks even their klunker cars are worth Fort Knox (endowment effect?), based on what I'm reading on craigslist (and two Volvos below). I presume that seller will high-ball and/or be unrealistic about the price, especially given the desire to replace it for his son with a Toyota, which have higher resale value.
The other day, I saw two Volvos posted on craigslist, one for $198, the other for $700 with no start and documented blown headgasket. While I was investigating them (e.g. talked to the mechanic for the $700/blown head gasket), sellers sold them to someone else the same day they were posted, so even crappy Volvos priced right move quickly here.
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Sounds like time for a road trip while the weather is still nice! Oregon (except Portland where they are gold plated hipster magnets), Arizona and Nevada Volvo's are cheap! Use it as excuse to come to see Austin, TX and have you pick of well maintained rust free cars.
But seriously, the door being welded up does not normally speak to rust...more likely backing of the garage with it open or similar...and a 1988 is a galvanized car so any rust that serious would mean the car is fit for the crusher.
Even here in Chicagoland this is a common sight:
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/4674959730.html
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Sun Sep 21 19:00 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
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"But seriously, the door being welded up does not normally speak to rust...more likely backing of the garage with it open or similar.."
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
this is the result of failing to lube those two Rollers that guide the U-shaped spring, that Dampen/Stop the door in the open position. No Lube... that U shaped spring snaps off, and the door is free to swing all the way wide. This results is the door side hinge to rips the metal of the door frame where it is attached.
Know this because that was the case when I got my used.
You not only need to get the door welded, but you need a new hinge with the U spring in place.
take a look at any of the other doors to see how this works
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No OBD non-sense can still adjust the timing and the idle manually. FI system Is rock solid. AMM rebuilds for 125 bucks.Dual piston front calipers not that cheap shit single crap of the newer models. If it was only a 5-speed.
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Thanks. What years did they use single caliper pistons in 240s, 740s, and 940s (I have a possible deal on a 940)?
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"What years did they use single caliper pistons in 240s, 740s, and 940s?"
The 240 always had 4-piston Girlings in front. 740 and 940 all used single-piston sliders in front, varying by type over the years.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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The single piston sliding calipers are still the same quality of construction as the the 4-piston opposed calipers and still supply excellent stopping power. The single pistons are modestly cheaper as rebuilts but more importantly, less often screwed up during the rebuild process.
So you lose a moderate amount of feel (It does annoy me, though) with the "inferior" brakes but you do gain a few things:
Pad changes are breeze
Normal mechanics are not baffled by the bleeding procedure
Less bleeder nipples to break
Less flex lines to replace
Less pistons to freeze up and when one does, easier to diagnose
To the OP, the 9-series is not fun to drive and is more difficult (nearly impossible?) to make it that way. It has a lot of reliability increases and most drive train parts are identical. Front suspension is easier to work on and reaching things like the top starter bolt, crank positions sensor, etc are easier.
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posted by
someone claiming to be oldduke
on
Sun Sep 21 14:55 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
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hi kid- yesterday i replaced 4 front brake pads in my 92 245. both front calipers had 4 pistons which were not leaking and moved freely . had to move them to accommodate the thicker new brake pads. think 93 240s are the same. would prefer single piston sliding calipers like on dodges in the 70s and 80s. bet these type calipers cost a lot to replace. looks like the caliper unbolts and splits. according to the repair manual these are girling produced. single piston calipers must be later in the 90s. fyi oldduke
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I would be very wary of getting involved if the seller wanted to keep driving the car after you've paid for it. Why get all tangled up in the "legaleze". Don't make their "problem" your problem - no matter the savings with a low-ball price. Once paid for I'd want the car to be parked till it could be picked up.
If the seller is unwilling to have it smogged -- that alone would warrant a low ball price -- no telling what kind of can of worms will be waiting to be opened.
An '88 would have an OD auto (standard since '81 or 2 in the US market) and your "spare" trannies would work (the "L" transmission would absolutely require an "L" torque converter--larger in size than the non-L torque converters).
As for the odo mileage - a drive should tell you if it works or not. Look for service stickers under the hood or on the door jamb. An oil change or timing belt sticker from years ago with barely any less mileage will give you some indication too. -- Dave
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