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"Not sure if this is related, but, I recently replaced the crank position sensor because I was experiencing difficulty starting the 240 after it was warmed up."
Anything to do with tuning trouble may suggest you perform the usual review of air, spark, fuel.
Air filter, air intake system and leaks, the hot air intake flap valve in the air filter box been stuck open for years, as they all fail exactly the same way, ruining your AMM (or MAF). How is the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) flame trap? How is the PCV piping? This gets brittle and can be an air intake system leak.
Spark like spark plugs, wires, look under distributor cap and rotor, check wire harness connectors, verify grounds are bonded and corrosion free (as with wire harness connectors), fuses (corrosion at the fuse holder ends in the fuse box by your left ankle as you drive), charging system, and so on down the line. Yours is an 1989, so review the host of brickboard articles on assessing and relocating or replacing the 25 amp fuel injection fuse behind the battery on the metal rail as it is wholly exposed to ambient outdoor elements. You may also wish to test sensors like the coolant sensor, the engine position (or crank) sensor, the mass air flow (MAF, or what may be called the air mass meter - the AMM). Yes, the TPS can fail or at least need adjustment. (A multimeter helps.)
I also always forget the fuel injection relay, yours is white, may have cracked solder welds. Go to the junkyard and get some spares. Under the North American market passenger side dash, mounted on or about the firewall. Remove the under the dash felty thingy to get to it. Search the brickboard for details on how to remedy it with soldering, or a new one (why?), or used ones from the junkyard.
Replacing items because you believe it is at fault may be waste of $$.
Fuel, well, don't open high pressure fuel lines, yet have you checked the vacuum line coming off the front of the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) as the diaphragm can fail and leak into the air intake port (air intake port is an air intake manifold on a fuel injected engine). I sort of *doubt* fuel delivery problems, yet yours is a 25 year owld Volvo 240 and the in-tank pre-pump (and filter) and the main fuel pump (and filter) can fail (filters can clog).
As yours is an 1989 240, you are on the cusp as to whether or not you have the Bosch 2.2 without the OBD diagnostic box, meaning you must have a multimeter (volts, continuity, ohms) to verify the wire harness. I believe Uncle Art Benstein's www.cleanflametrap.com may have the procedure to perform the diagnostic test on the Bosch LH-Letronic 2.2 and earlier injection, and the EXK ignition, or the earlier ignition mated with the earlier LH-Jetronic injection system.
From the 700/900/90 series FAQ, the best and freshest version hosted right here on your fave brickboard.com, please see:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm
You'll have the Bosch LH-Jetronic 2.4 (or 3.1 if you have a manual transmission and this box) with the box on the North American driver side inner fender adjacent to the brake master cylinder vacuum servo.
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSensors.htm
A little more serious:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineFIComputer.htm
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineFuelinjection.htm
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/FuelSystem.htm
And search the brickboard for article that list the words that can be used by some to describe the same problem. You may find a wealth of potential solution with one that may be best for you.
If you do not wish to invest in the test light, or make one, to check for fault code on the Bosch LH-Jet / and the Bosch EZK ignition, check for fault conditions you can check on a cold engine with your eye-bulbs and fingers.
You may find a host of vacuum lines that are brittle and have split at the ends. You can nip the ends and secure with a black (more durable than white or clear) zip tie. Or replace vacuum line with new quality vacuum line of the same gauge and such.
More than once have I found leaks in the vacuum-actuated HVAC air flaps under the dash. Disconnect the line at the center middle of the air intake port and seal off at the port. See if that makes any difference.
Look under the distributor cap and rotor. Carbon tracks along the inside of the rotor? Clean contacts and replace, or buy new, or find newer from the junk yard.
Spark plug gap? Spark plugs need gapping at every 2500-5000 miles or so, or at least a good look. Replace plugs at the manufacturer suggested interval.
As Uncle OzzieH suggest, get your big blue Bentley Volvo service manual bible. Best for those that need a little mechanical context and explanation.
Questions and comments?
Kitties?
Super fuzzy kitties?
Ultra fuzzy kitties?
Toonces, that cat from Saturday Night Live who could drive a car?
Please post back your questions, your observations, and such, so we know what progress you make, and so we can help you get and keep your precious Volvo 240, the most precious automobile ever made made by kindly, caring folks in Sweden and Northern Europe, though I'll bet yours was built at the Halifax, Canada plant as we are in North America.
Happy Season Celestial Greeting and Egg Nogs!
Crabby MacDuff and his Grumpy Technical Writing.
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We must save all rear wheel drive Volvos! We cannot let one more end up as scrap! Rear wheel drive Volvo FOREVER! REAR WHEEL DRIVE VOLVO UNITED! (the football club)
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