I have read everything I can find on Brickboard about steering, which means only a single thread on the forum, plus the entire FAQ on steering. Is there anything I'm missing? I would have expected a lot of threads on this subject, but only found a single short one

I've decided to undertake removal of the two high pressure steel lines. One has a pinhole. I've tried a fix using 3 small hose clamps and a piece of fuel hose over the hole. This seemed to work for a few weeks, but is now leaking profusely. I suppose I could try again with perhaps a different material, but I understand from my reading on line, that these lines have very high pressures, like over 300 PSI.

From the FAQ regarding this job, I believe I have fairly good guidance. From what I can see after removing the engine belly pan and the steel cover attached to the cross bar in the middle between the two wheels it seems that the job simply requires removing the screwed on fittings on each end of each line and replacing the lines. (I also need to identify my rack, to get the right replacements.)

I see that access is challenging and I'm not sure what approach to take to overcome this? At this time the car is on Rhino Ramps which provides adequate working space on my back, but temperature in Boston has turned down from a balmy 40 degrees to the 20s. If it is going to be several hours to remove the lines, as one of the FAQs states, then I may have to pull the car into my cramped single bay garage and put a heat source on to make working conditions bearable.

From what I've read, it seem, removal of the nuts at each end of each line is very difficult or even more difficult than that. I am comfortable working with MAP gas, if that is required. I'd prefer not to blow myself up along with my house, which has no insurance.

Advise? I'm looking for any hints, suggestions, encouragement from Brickboarders who have done this specific job. I am mindful that the Editor suggests just replacing the entire rack, but aside from the small additional cost, that just seems like too much work, when I am certain the problem is a single small pinhole, which I can see with fluid streaming out of it. However like all Volvo owners, I am liberal and open minded.

Thanks,

RMF

I am back after minor failure and considered starting a new thread, but thought I might be best to just continue. Especially, looking for answers to some rack questions from Randy, Spook, but also anyone else with experience.

The ideas I had about repairing the leaking high pressure line ... forget it. Clamping tightly over the hole in the line did not work at all using a split hose. I can't quite understand why, but I through with that.

At the same time trying to locate a piece of 1/4 ID hydraulic hose is more difficult that you might guess. The best I could do was McMaster Carr for a 5 foot minimum, with shipping about $25. Then you get into the question of how much pressure rating. Too much and it would be impossible to compress the ends sufficiently with hose clamps, too little might burst. Finally, once you are done, what have you got but an uncertain repair. I have abandoned that idea.

Instead, I plan to replace the rack. I have priced a replacement from EuroParts in Windsor, Ct. This company advertises specializing in Volvo, BMW and similar, provides telephone help from seemingly knowledgeable people. I have not ordered the rack yet, around $250. To avoid multiple orders and shipping charges, my plan is to remove the rack and see what else, if anything I need. There is a suggestion in the FAQs to replace the rubber supply and return lines from the reservoir. What do you think of that? Is that necessary and is there any way to check. Presumably the existing rack and hoses are original with the car, which means 20 years.

Here are my questions:

1. The FAQ Rack Replacement instructions say to place the car high on jack stands and remove the front wheels. I can do that, but right now the car is well placed high on Rhino Ramps and I would prefer to just leave it that way. I do not understand from what I've read why the wheels need to be removed? Does it have something to do with removal of the tie rods? Wouldn't keeping the wheels fixed on the ramps assure that the alignment would not be disturbed. As I have not done a rack before, I realize I am probably missing something simple and obvious in the procedure that requires the wheels to be free turning and the tires removed. (I assume in the FAQ when it refers to "remove the wheels" it mean the tires and rims not the actual wheels.)

Its always amazing what you miss until you do a 5th read of something. I think I see the problem. In order to disconnect the steering column, you need to remove spring clips and bolts which are not easily accessed without turning the wheel. Thus, the wheels need to be free to move. But why do they need to be removed. If the car falls on me with the tires in place, I have a chance - a slim one - or surviving. With the tires off, no chance.

To reassure my Brickboard friends, I am very risk adverse, when it comes to working under a car. When I jack up my car to place the jack stands, I use hydraulic jacks on both sides, which I leave in place. Thus, there are jack stands and hydraulic jacks holding the car up. Still, I am a nervous type, thinking earthquake, flood, disturbance in the force, etc. when I am under 3,000 pounds of metal. For $50 I could get another set of jack stands. But, where do I stop? I could reposition the hydraulic jack and place the Volvo jacks in their special holders. Then I would have the jack stands, plus two levels of redundancy. This come back to the question, why do the tires need to be removed, as long as the wheels can turn freely to remove the u-joint.

2. After my hose clamp failure, I decided to use the hole in the high pressure pipe as a means of draining the fluid, so it would not leak onto my carport. I started the car and let the fluid collect in a drain pan. This took a few minutes. The FAQ says something about not running the engine when replacing the rack until you are refilling the reservoir. I assume there is risk to running a "dry" pump. However, I may need to move the car from the carport to the drive way, just a few feet away. Should I be concerned? I might need to move the car to my mother's garage - a mile away. Should I be concerned about that distance?

3. The FAQ by Jerry Andersch says,"Disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering arms using a puller." I don't have a puller. I'm not sure what a puller is or how it would work to accomplish this separation? Is there a work around?

4. Once again, a reread of the FAQ is revealing. I did not understand at first the instructions about the tie rods, which I now understand is directed to getting the tie rod lengths to match in the replacement that same position they were when the old rack was removed. I think what confused me about this is that the rack pictures I have seen on line for rebuilt racks included new tie rods. But i must be recalling incorrectly because why would the rack rebuilders include new tie rods. Its doesn't make any sense and would be wasteful. Right? So the instructions are important for installing the removed tie rods into the rebuilt rack.

Once again, 6th reading. The FAQs state that the rack will come with tie rods. I guess the positioning instructions are referring to tie rod ends, something different. Until I get back under the car, I'm not quite sure what those are. Maybe when I see them, I'll understand why a puller is needed.

5. FAQs say to get the wheels aligned when done. Is that necessary, if I am careful not to disturb the position of the tie rods and u-joint when I install the rack? Everything in Boston is expensive. If I'm not careful, I'll be up around $500 before I know it and might as well have a sloppy local mechanic do the work.

15 degrees today. Its not weather for outside work requiring use of the hands. Below zero predicted for tonight.

Bob Franklin

Addressing the questions based on my opinion:

(1) With the wheels removed you have more working room overall and in particular in removing the outer tie rod ends.

I use jackstands under the jacking points used for the jack supplied with the car. I lower the car onto the jackstands and then actually try to push it off before working under it. My jackstands have an indentation that accepts the round stock of the jacking points on the car- very stable.

(2) Even though you think it is drained of fluid you will probably find that more will flow out as you progress. A small drain pan will come in handy as well as additional cover for the carport floor.

I would not hesitate to back the car out of the carport to the driveway with the system being dry, but I would not drive the car any distance. Just my gut saying that; no real knowledge as to possible damage.

(3) I believe that reference is to the outer tie rod ends. I assume the tie rod ends that are supplied with the rack will be the inner ones rather than the outer ones. If you plan on reusing the outers I would not use the "fork" type that employ an incline plane and a hammer for removal- they will tear the rubber boot. I remove the outer tie rod ends with a hammer. Loosen the nut until the top of the nut is flush with the end of the threaded rod. Support the steering arm with a hydraulic jack. You then strike the top of the nut to break loose the tapered rod of the tie rod end. If you don't support the steering arm it will simply flex when you strike the nut. Properly supported it shouldn't be difficult to remove.

(4,5) If the car is properly aligned at this time you will want to maintain the correct alignment. How you do that is up to you. Taking accurate measurements with a steel tape to good reference points before disassembly is a good starting point. I believe there are pointers in the FAQ's about DIY alignment.

Randy

Here is a progress report.

BTW Lucid says to "Start a new Thread". I am somewhat new to the thread and post world and would welcome a comment or two.

First, I do not see a difference between "My Posts" and "My Threads"?

Second, why start a new thread, if the subject is still removal of the steering rack?

Temp here in Boston went above 32F yesterday, so I attached the rack fixing bolts, because I assumed this would be the most difficult part of the rack removal project. I'm guessing I was right. The removal would not be a problem, except I did not have enough working room to use my 24 inch breaker bar. After heating the nuts with a torch, and with a lot of effort, I was finally able to remove the nuts and loosen the bolts. I then re-tightened because family is asking me to get the car out of the car port. Thus my rack replacement on this 940 is going to have to wait until spring. I have put another temporary patch on the leaking steel high pressure line and will add ATF so that moving it about 2 miles will not damage the pump.

From reading the FAQ again, I believe my main challenge now will be separating the tie rod ends from the steering rod using the hammer technique instead of a puller and possibly some difficulty separating the U-joint from the steering column.

Thanks again for the great help.

When I report my future progress, should it be on this same thread?

Bob Franklin

Just to clarify:

If you click on "POSTS" it will list all the posts you have made both to your own as well as other peoples posts.

If you click on "THREADS" it will list all the threads you have started.

Randy

Hi,

Thanks for keeping us updated!

I think you can leave the tie rod ends (the "joint" part that attaches to wheel side) at their place. Instead you can dismantle the tie rods from their ends. Furthermore most rack replacements come with tie rods without their ends. So you can screw-in the new tie rods into their respective ends later.

Loosen the one nut (size 22mm) that adjusts the tie rod length near the ends. Next is to turn the tie rod (the long shaft) until it separates from the ends. There's a place along the shaft to put a spanner on (size 14mm). Count the number of turns till the shaft separates. You'll need to put in same number of turns for your new tie rods later. For more precise steering alignment bring the car to alignment centre after the replacement.

Regarding the lower steering U joint, you'll need to undo the locking pin, undo the lower tightening bolt, put something (a big screwdriver maybe) to widen the gap and you could pull down the rack.

While you're at it check the U joints for excessive play. This is the time to replace them if needed (while the rack is out).

It would be more helpful for us to follow a new thread as this is already long (plus change of subject). I leave it for the OP to decide as keeping to this thread may show the progress of thoughts.

Amarin.

Dear robertmfranklin,

Hope you're well. Freeing the rack bolts is a major achievement!! I think you'll find that the "U" joints come free fairly easily, if you repeatedly use a penetrating oil (Kroil, PB Blaster, etc.) to saturate the flange bolts, that secure the "U" joints.

I'd use new tie rod ends, if only to avoid having to free the tie rod ends from the steering rods.

When you re-assemble, be sure to coat threads with anti-seize. This will prevent the formation of corrosion bonds, which form relatively quickly where salt is used on roads.

By-the-way, the word "future" should rarely - if ever - be used. "Progress", as you correctly stated, refers to expected events. Therefore, there's no need for "future".

The common use of "in the future" (e.g., in the future, we will ...) or "in the past" (e.g., in the past, we did ...) wastes words. The verb forms - "will" and "did" - show that the event under reference, respectively, has yet to occur or has occurred.

The use of "in the future" and "in the past" may have entered English from Spanish. In Spanish, the future tense, e.g., "Tomorrow, I will go to New York." is a very strong statement, expressing the speaker's firm determination. Thus, a Spanish-speaker would usually use the present tense, e.g., "Tomorrow, I go to New York".

Even so, there's rarely a need for English-speakers to use the word "future", or the phrases, "in the future" or "in the past". These words are simply wasted.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

"Second, why start a new thread, if the subject is still removal of the steering rack?"

Perhaps because you've drifted from the original topic which was to do with leaks in the high pressure line to removal of the rack.
--
82 242 5.0L; '10 Cayman S; '15 Honda Fit

1- Order your rack from http://www.jorgenauto.com/.
eEuro is OK for parts, but why pay the mark-up price when you don't have to?

2- Look for a used (or library copy) of the Bentley 240 Service manual. The 240 rack/steering is much the same as your 940, and you'll benefit from the illustrated remove-install descriptions in section 640.

3- Start a new thread.

Bob,
I replaced my rack this summer because one of the seals was leaking. Luckily I was able to get a used rack from Millis Used Auto, where I first met you. It was not difficult to remove or install. The rack in my car was a Koyo, so the lines had be reversed and reshaped to fit.
I would not bother fixing the rotted lines, with the oil on them you have a good chance of starting a fire. It will be much easier to replace the rack and the tie rod ends. Save yourself the trouble of fighting with rusted on parts. Get it from a reputable auto parts supplier, those bargain parts always fail on me.
Gus

Follow up to my recent (Jan 1) post.

When I look at the high pressure lines that are available for purchase on line, I see that some are made up with steel on the ends, but hydraulic rubber sections in between. I am guessing that is to allow some flexibility and make them easier to install.

In the same way, if I were to cut straight through the leaking line and slide a compatibly sized piece of hydraulic hose on both ends of the cut, wouldn't I have solved the problem in much the same way that the new lines with hose are made up?

RMF

Hi,

I guess no one has ever attempted that repair.

If your first repair by patching the hole was successful why not repeat it again for the time being. This time with more resilient material (nylon tubing maybe) held in place with hose clamps (plus one hose clamp over where that pinhole is).

I've never repaired any high pressure steering lines so this is just a suggestion, but I know that it holds 1000 to 1500 PSI. I knew this from my recent work on modifying the Saginaw steering pump's valve to boost more hydraulic pressure (for more assist).

Amarin.

EDIT: The usual A/C hose (from A/C manifold set, not A/C hose in car) can normally hold up to 600PSI (with 3000PSI burst pressure) but you have to sacrifice one to know its internal diameter. I'm not sure if its internal diameter is just enough for the steel pipe to slip in.

If it does maybe you can cut the steel pipe at the pinhole, sleeve the A/C hose in, make sure the ends of the cut meet each other inside the A/C hose. Then clamp as per your repair before (plus one clamp on the hose over the cut section).

May need to use vernier caliper to exactly measure steel pipe outer diameter and internal diameter of A/C hose before attempting repair. A word of caution, the hose itself is not that yielding (quite tough) to manoeuvre around.

As every one knows, this forum is wonderful. I just wanted to say it.

I got under the car earlier and looked things over carefully. That's why the comment Spook made about securing the line to the rack with a block of wood and a clamp made sense to me. I had expected to just cut the line with a Dremel and force them aside to install the hydraulic hose. It makes sense that these steel lines do not have that range of flexibility.

Some quick background. After holding onto my 4th 940 for 4 years in my mother's garage just a few blocks away, under pressure from my family, I donated it to WBUR a month ago. This 940 had been the best of the 4. 125,000 miles and always professionally serviced (although question whether that is the best service). When I gave it to my college age daughter 4 years ago it was in super condition, but a few weeks later she had a head on. Not hurt, but the car was. I would have been a great parts car, but I finally succumbed to pressure and its gone. I'll bet the rack on that would have been perfect for what I need now, along with lots of other stuff. As for the other 3 including the one I am working on each has at least one significant problem and I can never decide which of the 3 should be elevated from prince to king. So, I muddle along with all three.

Another factor that effects my auto planning is a consequence of my driving needs. If I add up the mileage per year put on all the 940s, I'be be hard pressed to get to 5,000. So each car has less than 2,000 miles put on it each year. That's probably more bad than good, but it means that my repairs do not have to be reliable since I am rarely more than 10 miles from home and backup. The point is, it creates a different psychological state of mind, when I am attempting a repair that might be unconventional or creative, as is the case with the hydraulic hose coupling, I am contemplating. If I need a long trip car, my wife's CX70 is available. My now college grad daughter moved to San Francisco in September, so her ACURA SUV is in the driveway. I'm not trying to give a full family picture, its just my excuse for getting rid of the 940. Just too many cars kicking around.

My plan is to try the hose coupling idea. I feel I have nothing to loose and if it bursts, I can still drive the car. I've already done 30 miles on the pump with insufficient fluid without any noticeable negative effect on it.

If the hydraulic hose repair is unsuccessful or I disturb the connection at the rack, I'll most likely take the rack out and replace it. There would be no other practical option. I do not see any evidence of leaks at the boot ends of the rack. Although the poor visual condition of the rack and the steel lines look line these are 20 year old original parts, the boots on each connecting rod, look like new. I don't quite get it?

I could use a little help on this part of the project if I get to removing the rack. Now that I've had a good look I see the rack consists of the steel piece which I assume contain the hydraulics that moves the rods one direction or the other. The rack is connected to two hoses with large Banjo fittings. These mst be the supply and return for the pump. I assume these need to be disconnected from the rack, so the rack. Then the connecting rods and two bolts that are extremely rusted, which hold the rack to the frame of the car.

That's it. Are the banjos hard to remove?

BTW. I did check the steel lines with a caliper. The are precisely 1/4 inc OD.

Regarding the reference to the transmission. I had planned to do it myself. But 2 gallons of Tranmission fluid will be $40.00, which puts me, not near the $179, but on my way to it. You think dropping the pan is unnecessary? I just open the drain plug, drain what I can. Replace the plug. Separate the line at the radiator and connect the HD/Lowe's hose to the pipe at that point. Then what? Run the engine, moving the shift between gears, as transmission fluid flows into my empty gallon containers, replace what comes out by adding fluid through the dipstick tube. Is that about it. Could save my self a $100 and I'm not against that especially as the front wheels are up on ramps and I plan to change the oil and filter, too. I just thought the professional flush would do a more thorough job. Eager to hear more, Steve. And sorry to mix this into the P.S. thread.

Problem is with the Trans., I'm going to have to pull my son from his 60 inch HD to help me and if you've even tried to pull a bone from a dog, you can understand why the $179 flush was appealing to me.

Bob

Dear robertmfranklin,

Hope you're well. I'd like to clarify my suggestion about supporting the pin-holed steel pipe, before trying to cut it and slide onto it, a short length of 1/4" internal-diamenter hydraulic hose. I specifically suggested using a hose clamp to secure the steel pipe to the rack body, because a hose clamp - no matter how much you try to tighten it - will not be able to crush the steel tube. The hose clamp's threads will strip, before the steel pipe gives way. By contrast, it might be possible to crush the steel tube, if you use a "C" clamp.

The steel pipe has a limited amount of springiness. Thus, use the narrowest outer-diameter hydraulic hose you can find, that also has a 1/4" interior diamater. The narrower the hydraulic hose, the less you need to move the steel pipe, to slide onto it the hydraulic hose. Ideally, the hydraulic hose's outer diameter will not exceed 1/2".

As to transmission flushes, there's no need to remove the pan, unless you know or suspect that coolant has entered the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). If that happened, water will have attacked the glue that adheres clutch pack facings to the steel substrate. Dissolving the glue can cause clutch pack facing fibers to get loose. Those fibers will be caught by the filter. If there's been no water in the ATF, the filter will be clean. Do the flush per the FAQs: pour in fresh fluid via the transmission fluid dipstick pipe, as the old fluid is pumped-out by the transmission. Stop the process, when the fluid being pumped-out is a clear, rosy red.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Spook. I'm doing the transmission flush now and think I have it under control. Much easier than I thought. I've separated the line from the radiator and now I have to go to the auto store to get a couple gallons of ATF. No evidence of water or anything in the fluid I drained out of the pan. Just a little brownish in color. I also did an oil change while I had the car up. Its been almost 2 years, but less than 2,000 miles.

I am awaiting delivery of a clamp to reconnect the Catalytic Converter to the pipe on the engine side. The clamp that was there disintegrated and I needed a special "split" clamp to pull the pipes together because of the rim flare on each.

Back to the power steering line. I am feeling confident with all the advice and I'm gearing myself up psychologically to do it. When I go to Advance to get the trans fluid, I am going to see if they have a compatible piece of hose. However, I am now having an additional thought on the way to accomplish the coupling. Rather than ricking pulling the pipe aside once the cut it made, I am considering cutting out a much longer section. This will allow me to insert the hose more easily and also give me more working room.

Seems to me if high pressure hydraulic hose is adequately secured on both ends by multiple hose clamps, it doesn't really made any difference how much of a gap it is bridging between the ends of the cut. Also, by cutting out a longer section I have a better chance of fracturing the pipe by avoiding corrosion that might be in the area of the pin hole.

RMF

Dear robertmfranklin,

Hope you're well. If the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is "brownish", it is past the end of its service life. Your flush will give the tranny a lot more years. I usually use Moble 1 Synthetic ATF, but any good quality ATF will do.

Your point about cutting-out a larger section of steel pressure pipe is well taken. If I recall correctly, the shorter of the two pipes has many twists and turns, so there's not a lot of room for maneuver. The longer of the two pipes allows far more maneuvering room.

You're not likely to find at any auto parts store the hydraulic hose that's required: precisely 1/4" interior diameter and the narrowest possible exterior diameter. The hose you need is more likely to be found at a place that services construction equipment or - even better - a place that specializes in rebuilding hydraulic hoses. Such places are likely to have the hose you need.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Clairvoyant, you are! I went to Advance Auto last night and found they carry no hydraulic hose at all. I found medium pressure hydraulic hose on line at McMaster Carr - 3200 psi, 5 foot minimum purchase, but exact right 1/4 inch ID @ $3 per foot. With shipping probably $20 - $25.

I am going to check around my house first. I wonder if brake line hydraulic hose might work. Depends on the ID. I believe I have a old piece around, but have no idea what the pressure limit is for brake lines.

Since its just a pin hole, and since it could be a few days before I get the hose I need, I am thinking of redoing the first "fix", temporarily. Just some kind of strong material (it could even be a scrap of wood) placed over the pin hole and secured with a hose clamp. Even if the PSI is very high, the size of the opening is so small that the actual pressure at that point is a small fraction of the "square inch" rating.

Or have I got that wrong?

I have the luxury of time to do this in increments.

Bob Franklin

Sorry. Reread the FAQs. Transmission drain hose goes onto the radiator nipple, not the removed pipe.

Dear robertmfranklin,

Hope you're well. Volvo no longer supplies replacement steel pressure pipes for Koyo racks. Volvo has replacement steel pressure pipes for CAM/TRW racks. The "long" pipe is #9140941 ($49 MSRP) and the "short" pipe is #1387471 ($38 MSRP).

Your proposed repair method could work, if:
(a) you cut the pin-holed pipe using a thin abrasive disk (1/16" or thinner) driven by a rotary cutting tool (e.g., a Dremel or similar tool).
(b) when you move aside one side of the cut pipe - to slide-on the hydraulic hose section - you keep the cut pipe from moving, where it enters the rack body.
(c) the hydraulic hose's inner diameter matches precisely the outer diameter of the steel pressure pipe
(d) you use three clamps on either end of the hydraulic hose section.

As to (a), using an abrasive disk greatly reduces the risk of breaking the seal, where the steel pressure pipe enters the rack body. I would definitely not use any sort of hand or power saw, that cuts with a back-and-forth motion. After you make the cut, clean the area of the cut to prevent metal particles from entering the pipe. I'd use some sand paper to remove any burrs on the cut edges of the pressure pipe.

As to (b) I'd brace the cut pipe close to where it enters the rack body, by putting a block of wood trimmed to match exactly the gap between the pipe and the rack body's wall. I'd then use a large-diameter hose clamp to clamp the cut pipe to the block of wood. That will prevent the cut pipe from moving (where it enters the rack body), when you grip the cut-end of the cut pipe, and move it sideways, just far enough to allow the hydraulic hose to be slid onto cut pipe.

As to (c), you should measure the steel pipe with a calipers, so that you can buy a length of hydraulic hose, that is precisely the same diameter as is the steel pressure pipe. I doubt that hydraulic hose has much give, so a hose that is slightly narrower than is the steel pressure pipe will not fit easily, or at all. Equally, an hydraulic hose that it "over-sized" will allow fluid to escape, even when the clamps are tightened fully.

In short, this repair almost certainly can be made to work, if: (a) the steel pressure is handled carefully, and (b) if a small section of hydraulic hose can be had, the internal diameter of which matches exactly the external diameter of the steel pressure pipe.

Hope this helps and that the New Year starts well and improves steadily!

Yours faithfully,

Spook

I have replaced the steel lines on the racks twice. Once on a 1994 940T and most recently a 1992 745.

I purchased the lines from Tasca Volvo. I had difficulty the last time as the parts person insisted they were no longer available. I knew they were as I had priced them there only days before. He consulted with a more experienced person who lead him to the correct drill down.

I used jack stands and I wonder if ramps might cramp the working space at the rack?

I found it necessary to disconnect the steering column universal joint from the rack and then lower the rack to be able to get at the fittings and lace the new lines into the correct position. The rack would not drop down enough without removing the two banjo fittings on the hoses/rack connections.

Mark the position of the universal joint in relation to the rack with the wheels centered so as to be able to reattach it in a way that keeps the correct steering wheel orientation. Do not move the steering wheel once the connection at the rack is loose. It would spin freely when disconnected but would destroy the contact reel ("clock spring") for the air bag.

The two through bolts that hold the rack in place are subject to corrosion. In both instances I had to apply a goodly amount heat, penetrating fluid, and persuasion (hammer blows) to remove them. Make sure you disconnect the battery and wait an hour or so before using the hammer or you might set off the air bag.

This area is of course covered with years of build up and you will want to clean as much of that away as you can before removing the hoses. Stuff rags into the rack openings and the hose fittings to help keep things clean.

The best way to remove the old steel line fittings is to cut them off so that you can get a six point socket on them. Line wrenches and 12 pt sockets are a quick way to create a problem by rounding off the hex of the fitting.

Pay attention to the installed configuration of the lines before removing them as well as the order of removal. Photos might be a good idea. Once they are off and you begin to install the new ones you will be glad you did.

The lines are not a perfect fit and a little bit of "adjustment" will usually be needed. I found on the 745 that the squarish steel plate that is the last step of the replacement actually was held away from its proper position because of contact with one of the new lines. You not only want good fitment of that plate but you will also want to insure there is a space between it and the lines.

Steve suggested that perhaps the best way to deal with rusted steel lines would be to replace the rack. I must admit that several times during the replacement I had thoughts of how he just might be on to something in making that suggestion. Honestly I don't look forward to ever doing it again.

Good luck in whatever you decide.

Randy

Here are two threads associated with my replacement questions:

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1604349/need_part_numbers_steel_lines_cam_steering_rack_1992_745.html

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1605046/threads_aluminum_rack_damaged_corroded_steel_fitting.html

Thanks all for responding. Randy for the details and Gus for recalling our meeting at Millis PnP. Hi again.

I'm usually pretty good at devising a repair, but I have to admit this one has me uncertain how to proceed. Part of the problem is cold weather and working on the car outside.

May I lay out some of my thinking and alternatives to solicit some more replies.

I am thinking of putting the car away until the weather warms up. I have two other pretty much identical 940s that are registered and insured and running, so I switch off from time to time. This one needs a serious transmission flush as well. Very slow shifting when cold. I got a price last week of $179 from Lee Myles and this includes dropping the pan. So that's probably what I am going to do rather than do it myself. [From what I read in FAQs, Volvo no longer recommends dropping and cleaning the pan, but the place I went to inquire in Roslindale, said they would not do the flush without dropping the pan, and this made sense to me.]

But, as to the high pressure line. I am reluctant to get into a big job in this cold weather. I could clear out my garage, but that's another project. So, here are some alternatives I am considering.

I am not use to dealing with the PSI that is in the steel lines, so my thinking may be unrealistic. A piece of hose (don't know the type) was cut longitudinally and slipped over the hole in the pipe. Three small hose clamps were attached and that seemed to stem the flow for a while. When I examined this repair a few months later, I was able to substantially tighten the clamps. Now, this could have been because the person who did this failed to tighten them sufficiently to begin with or perhaps the fluid deteriorated the material and it softened up. I tightened the clamps and for a couple of weeks the leak stopped. But then it returned.

So, I am wondering whether I could make an adequate (albeit temporary) repair this way: Cut right through the steel line then slip a section of hydraulic hose over each end and secure it with as many clamps as I can fit in the space available. I can't see why this would not work and it seems to be easy, but no one has mentioned this, so I must be missing something.

I do see special fittings on hydraulic hoses, so I'm guessing the hose clamps are just not tight enough to stop fluid from leaking by. However, the dimensions are so small, I have trouble understanding why the pressure coming our of a tiny hole cannot be easily plugged.

I am mindful of the comments that refer to replacing the entire rack and I would consider that. However, I have this question. If I were to attempt to remove the steel lines and failed, would I have wasted the money purchasing the replacement lines or would they be required when I purchased a replacement rack? I can't imagine the rack comes with the steel lines because they are differently configured in different cars. But I am still uncertain about this.

Can it really be that difficult to remove the lines? From what Randy says, I guess so. The idea of cutting the line and using a 6 point socket is a good one. Apparently the dissimilar metals between the line and the rack attachment point causes the connection to fuse chemically.

I haven't priced out the lines, partly because I don't know what I am looking for exactly, but a pair will be well over $100. I don't mind spending the money, but I'd prefer not to spend it twice. I assume a full rack replacement is going to cost around $500. Maybe I've got that wrong?

Basically, I'd like to do a simple repair, now, and when I get some of the other bugs worked out of the car do it right, later on.

Bob Franklin

Bob, get a rebuilt rack. One, removing the rack is a cinch compared with trying to get the lines off. Second, the cost is only around $225 from Jorgens (highly recommended) and you get a totally rebuilt, rust free unit. Third, trying to source just the lines will be hard (models differ) and not that cheap. If you REALLY want to do it right, get the rebuilt rack unit, remove the new lines, and have them powder coated. The whole assembly will last forever.

Bob,

Repairing the existing steel lines may or may not pay dividends over time. If the lines are rusted through where you have the leak I can not imagine that they are not very thin in other places. Manipulating the lines to make the repair may stress those weak areas and provide another leak point.

You mentioned you had two other nearly identical 940's. Is one of those cars your "A" material car? Would you be interested in putting a rebuilt rack in it? I ask because if that rack is a match for the one that is leaking you could take the rack currently in the "A" car and put it in the leaker. I realize that involves swapping out two racks, but it solves the problem without throwing the cost of a rebuilt rack into the leaker (if perhaps it is your "beater").

As an aside concerning the transmission flush. I don't see the advantage of paying $179 for the added service of removing the pan. I used to struggle with removing the pans to change the filters and never found a filter with anything on it. You can flush that transmission in 30 minutes with two gallons of ATF and a four foot section of tubing from Home Depot/Lowes.

Randy

My 2 cents:

About 5 years ago I noticed a leak in my PS because the fluid would get low and start foaming. My first step, after having to top it up too often, was to add Lucas PS stop leak. All that really did was increase the top-up intervals. By this time I was suspecting pin-holed high pressure interconnecting lines. I took it to a local shop that worked on these cars and he supposedly ordered a used rack, but never came through. I had priced rebuilt racks, but the cost was a bit too rich for me. After about a year of using the Lucas stuff one of the lines finally blew in the dead of winter because the fluid was as thick as honey with the additive. I drove it for about 3 months, occasionally putting in a splash of ATF to keep the pump lubricated until I found a rack from an older 740 in a junkyard. The lines were very rusty, but didn't appear to have been leaking. I cleaned it up and painted the lines with POR-15 and put it in and it's worked fine ever since. The "new" rack was a ZF instead of the original (CAM?), but the connections were close enough to the same location that they worked.

While struggling with this problem, I scoured Brickboard for solutions, but never did find exact part numbers for the lines or where to get them. I even took the old rack to a hydraulics repair shop to see if they could replace the lines, but a ballpark quote was as much as a rebuilt rack. Long story short, I'd recommend replacing the rack with a rebuilt or good junker.
--
1992 745, >500k km

Hello RMF,

Allow me to preface my remarks by the usual disclaimer -- that my experience is minute with 900, and non-existent with 900 steering. But you did ask for encouragement along with your quest for experience. :)

Not knowing whether rack replacement is any worse or easier on a 940 as compared with that of a 240, I hesitate to jump in and blindly say "get a rack." But, I have read a lot about this problem, so I understand the search of this website is failing to find all the posts. Most prominent in my memory is Bruce's (lucid) identification of the several makes of steering gear used in the 9 series and how each is different in the type of connector used in those pipes and their availability for replacement.

I've heard that with at least one of those makes, Volvo has replacement pipes currently.

I've seen the suggestions for replacing a pinholed section with one or more compression union repairs.

I've seen suggestions to find good ones at the yards.

I've heard tell Jorgen (as an example of a rack rebuilder) cannot source these pipes for their remanufacturing and must find them from cores... but I take that as third hand rumor I'm now making even worse by repeating.

A friend of mine just completed a pipe replacement on his wife's 199x Dodge minivan's rack, through the facility of his mechanic's use of a machine shop hydraulic tool to put the o-ring lump in a new pipe's end. No, I don't know who made that rack or have a clear idea of which coupling he needed to swedge.

When this happened to me on a 1991 Mitsubishi (in 1995) I paid $113 for the pipe.

Also, I realize this trouble will progress down the salt belt into my area as well, and in anticipation, I've cleaned those pipes and applied some POR-15 in at least two of our 240s.

Also, due to my reading, I've determined to seek only ZF racks if I ever need a replacement -- for more than the one reason they may employ banjo bolt connections on the small pipes.

So where's the encouragement you ask? I'd encourage you to keep searching the forums. I think, save for that lack of 900 knowledge impairing my logic, you should consider getting another rack. And, of course, having been raised by an insurance agent, a fire policy. :)


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

By the time a man is wise enough to watch his step, he's too old to go anywhere.

"Not knowing whether rack replacement is any worse or easier on a 940 as compared with that of a 240, I hesitate to jump in and blindly say "get a rack.""

I will say it for you Art. Get a rack.

On caveat, if you have a Koyo (check the data plate) consider switching at this time to a more available, cheaper to maintain rack. If you want OEM quality or better tie rod ends for Koyo, the price difference for these alone will pay for the correct lines and hardware kit.

So back to your original issue...are you planning on bending up your own cross-over lines? If so, have you a suitable flaring tool? I ask because after using the WONDERFUL (and very pricey) hand-pump hydraulic flaring tool for brake lines on our race car, I tried to do one ISO bubble flare with a manual tool...I am not even sure it is possible.

Uncle robertmfranklin,

Like Uncle Art, I'm short with anything past 240 or 1993. To help you search ...

You may want to use your fave search engine to target a website like evil google and the like.

Form you search string as such in the website search engine search field:
Volvo 940 High Pressure Steering Lines site:brickboard.com

It is the "site:brickboard.com" that targets the site. Do the same with turbobricks, matthewsvolvosite, the UK and Europa club website.

Anyhoo, a place for steering racks and other what have yous:

http://www.jorgenauto.com/rack-pinion/volvo.html

Whether you get a rack or not ....

... Another alternative worth mentioning as it is 20° F in Boston is to check self- and full-service salvage yards for 940/960/S & V 90 for power steering pump hydraulic lines. You may find good quality factory installs or replacement power steering lines. If you have quality PS pump to PS steering rack connectors, even if the lines are shot, you can enlist the aforementioned specialty machine shops that can press and crimp, or fabricate the hydraulic lines using your junkyard pulls. With new copper washers and a whole lot of prep, as you are in the salty-rusty belt, you may be able to replace the lines using new hose material.

As for your rack, I'll bet seals and all four tie rods are probably not in the best condition. With new inner and outer tie rods, and make sure the inner tie rod accordion boot seals well, you can replace these.

Yet, as you want to keep power steering, you may want to replace the lines first, and then, if needed, the rack, if it leaks now that you have new power steering hydraulic lines and the CORRECT clean and new fluid.

May want to use a line filter or use the "magnet on a string" to collect metal particles from the new fluid.

I've turned to of my 240s into unpowered powered steering. Sort of harder on the steering column u-joints. These steering column u-joints are now only available as aftermarket. The Haynes Volvo 240 manual, and I stupidly followed it, says go ahead, stuff some Dexron III in your 240 power steering pump. The 1990 240 manual says Ford Auto Transmission Fluid "Type F (and maybe G or F/G?)." I hit a snowy-hidden curb and stuffed the steering rack on my 1992 240. (Don't ever wake up and immediately drive to work.)

Hope that helps.

Hope it works for you.

cheers,

dud.