my 94 rex-regina 940 has occasional no start, no crank conditions.

this is what i know.
1. i replaced the NSS; battery is recent, no battery terminal corrosion.
2. car starts easily when i connect starter terminal 50 to the battery.
3. when the car does start, a half second delay start typically occurs when in KPIII.
4. when in KPII, all lights and power works. no weird electrical conditions.
5. no start conditions doesn't seem related to driving or temperature.
6. after i jumped the starter, car runs fine, and after driving home, the car starts up fine.

assuming the wiring is ok, would this condition be a cylinder tumbler or a ignition switch condition, bad contacts or cylinder wearing out?

thanks!
byron golden
86 245
92 245
94 940

Hi,

I have no Regina but here's what you can do to test this (testing the ignition switch). Rig a lamp (12v) to the starter solenoid cable.

Now you can turn the ignition to KP III many times watching the lamp if it lights up every time you try to crank. You can do this test with/without the solenoid cable connected to starter and see if the switch is really faulty or it may be the starter.

Amarin.

amarin,

i checked the volts and i'm getting constant 12v at terminal 50 at kpii and kpiii.

the starter doesn't start.

starter or switch? sounds like the starter?

thanks,
byron

Hi,

The terminal 50 shouldn't have any voltage at KP II. Only at KP III (to power the starter motor). Looks like the switch (labelled as 3/1) is defective. Please refer to diagram below taken from Volvo wiring book 1994. Bosch and Regina wirings are the same.

Measuring voltage at the terminal 50 (KP III) shouldn't be taken as the switch is OK. The voltmeter only draws minimal load on the switch. Its the current (ampere) that the switch can deliver to the starter solenoid that counts (I was hoping the 12v light test would draw more power than the voltmeter).

One more test. You could put two single wires - one to terminal 30 (batt power) and another to terminal 50 (at the switch). Terminal 30 wire is red, terminal 50 pink.

When in no start condition later keep the key pushed in KP III position while SHORTING the two wires. The idea is to augment current delivery to the starter solenoid. If it starts then its the switch that's defective (as it can't deliver that much current). If its not then its the starter.

Anyways I'm suspecting the switch is defective as it has voltage at terminal 50 in KP II (maybe too much metal shavings in an old switch could produce this). The switch could not be cleaned. Has to be replaced.



Amarin.

hello amarin,

thanks for the reply. i've jumped the car before using the battery to terminal 50. i'll test with the 2 wires tomorrow, but if i need to replace the switch, then i need to replace the whole ignition lock kit?

picture here.
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/61632/Ignition-Lock-Kit-Column-3526031/

two points
1. i was hoping to just replace the cylinder, but i don't see it in my parts catalog, only the switch, pn 3526031.

2. can volvo make the cylinder to match my current keys, or do i have to go with the keys they provide in the new kit?

thanks again,
byron

The part you've given the link to is the ignition cylinder assembly without the switch.

Your photo below:




Point 1: If your key turns nicely there's no need to replace the cylinder. Furthermore the whole assembly (as in your photo) is held by "tamper-proof" bolts (its hex head broken off for security). Only need to replace the switch.

Point 2: Yes Volvo can replace the cylinder (I meant the tumbler into which the key goes into) only. You'd have to provide the VIN number to them. The replacement part would come as cylinder only and you'd have to figure out how to take the old cylinder out and put new one in. Perhaps you could post this topic to the board as I haven't done this.

Replacement cylinder (tumbler) as in photo below:



To get to the switch (photo below) you'd have to dismantle the large plastic cover beneath the steering. Access to the screws holding the switch might be a bit awkward but you'll get to it slowly. The switch's electrical plug just need to be pulled off (towards front of car). Assembly is opposite of dismantling. Should take 30 mins or less.





The ignition cylinder assembly PLUS switch (this from 200 series but you get the idea):


Hope these helps,
Amarin.

amarin,
i replaced the switch, all is well. i shook the old switch and something's rattling inside.

the lock cylinder is not smooth, now. i'm thinking the switch messed something inside the cylinder.

current problem is solved.

i'll order a new cylinder.

thanks and good info.

regards,
byron

If you replace the lock and lock cylinder, kindly take some photos and write it up for the FAQ. The existing writeup is for an older 740 and needs a new edit.
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalIgnition.htm#IgnitionSwitchReplacementin740940

hi steve,
yes, i'll document this procedure. first, i'm following amarin's advise and allowing the switch to "wear in".

thanks,
byron

All your random no starts symptoms matched almost all of mine. I did change out my original ignition switch for a used one and the symptoms came back after a month or so. So, after reading this thread I went ahead and purchased a new ignition switch and so far my '93 940T wagon has started without fail or even a pause to start.
Thanks everyone for all the help!

GothM

hello bill,
what i have been doing is buying critical volvo spares when they are at reduced prices on ebay. i bought the switch a few months early but never knew what the symptoms of a bad switch were.

mine's running just fine, too.

i'll be looking for another switch; i have two 240s.

good to read you got it fixed.

regards,
byron golden

Hello Byron - I've only, in the past 2 or 3 years, really started working on my own Volvo. It's a learning curve for sure finding sources for Volvo parts and never considered ebay as one but will give it a try. I think my biggest problem is not knowing if I should use original or after market parts. I tend to stick to original as much as possible.

Back to a failing ignition switch symptom(s), the biggest reason why I went back and bought a new one is that you said you had a half second delay before it would start cranking. Mine was sometimes half second to a full second and a half before it started cranking. Of course, it sometimes, mostly I would say, have just a no crank, especially after driving for a long while. It did, however, always start given enough time and times turning the key. :) The symptoms may come back (I hope not) because there was an alarm system that sometimes caused a "no crank" so I had a mechanic remove it. The wiring, after looking at it when replacing the ignition switch this last time, looks like a bomb went off down there. So, hopefully, a new IS did the trick and it's not the wiring.

Take care and thanks again!
GothM

Hi bcg,

"what i have been doing is buying critical volvo spares when they are at reduced prices on eBay"

Have a look also in eBay.nl (Netherlands). Sometimes they have much more lower prices especially for electrical and cosmetic parts.

Amarin.

Welcome! Good to hear that problem solved.

You may want to hold ordering the cylinder for a while.

When I replaced my ignition switch last time same thing happened. The new switch has more spring power plus I need to push the key stronger into KP III. I took out the switch again to investigate this. Yes without the switch the ignition key able to twist freely to and fro within the lock with almost no resistance at all.

I put some drops of Marvel oil into my lock cylinder and it became smoother. But I still need stronger effort to push the key into KP III (this compared to when the old switch was there) . Finally I take this as a normal thing.

The proper lock lubricant is graphite based but Marvel seems to work for me. You could search the forum for "lock lubricant". Our board members have better suggestions.

Regards,
Amarin.

Dear Amarin,

Hope you're well. Oil-based lock lubricants work fine where ambient temperatures rarely get to freezing.

When ambient temps get to freezing, a graphite-based lock lube will continue to provide lubricity. I've used Lock-Ease, with good results.

In the US, Lock-Ease can be had from www.amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GKW2NM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000CIJUGA&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0FFRAKZZB9B2SYE9EMN2 .

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Thank you Spook! Yes my climate is tropical.

Regards,
Amarin

hi amarin,
thanks.
i have a new switch sitting on the shelf, and no problem in turning the cylinder.

i'll just install it today. bb has some posts to install the switch, involving taking the cluster out. i'll confirm later after install.

good price from fcp during their clearance, $53.

regards,
byron