I'm wondering if my 93 is stalling out because it has an 016, instead of 01?

93 240 5 speeds were NOT manufactured using LH 3.1 fuel injection components.
all 93 240's were made in LH 2.4 format.........auto and manual

to find lh 3.1 in a 240 you need to own a 92, 91 and most but NOT ALL 1990 models.

some 90 models came with lh 2.4.

from my research lh 3.1 was used by volvo engineers to test out functions which became the lh system utilized in the volvo 850 models starting in 1993

Thanks for the responses.
I just bought the 93, which has a long list of issues, and my 92 does have the oo1, so I assumed it would be 3.1 as well. Also The VIN code suggest 3.1.
On the other hand , the connector is not an issue.
I'm on the road for a while, so I can't remind myself of the codes, but I think they were the one for injectors, and for throttles position switch in the second test mode.

Mr. Porter,

While you are the road warrior, by 1991 Volvo 240, we can help you to perform the non-intrusive OBD check steps, and review solutions you can try on the road, or to be safer, maybe when you return home.

Why we're here for you and your mighty 1991 Volvo 240.

Do you have the large red (hardcover) or blue Bentley Volvo 240 Bible Service Manual, the last Haynes 240 service manual 1997 or newer imprint, or the Volvo Factory green Service manuals you can find online and on DVDs and CD-ROMs off of eBay. These can help. The 700-900-90 FAQ lists other publication that may also be available for 240.

Also, when you post your OBD codes, for socket 2 (Bosch LH-2.4 [or 3.1) Jetronic fuel) and socket 6 (Bosch EZk ignition and, if equipped, EGR).

Our shared concern on the brickboard is that you are traveling, and you have running issues, so we're here to help you and your mighty 1991 Volvo 240. (I have a 1991 and 1992 240 sedans with LH2.4 on 91 [EGR] and 3.1). All with manual transmission.

We also want to empower you so you can best deal with a mechanic repair service should any problem you have come to that.

In the Volvo 700-900-90 FAQ, please see:

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

LH-Jetronic 2.4+ and EZK 116 is your concern.

Before running your 1991 Volvo 240 for the day, perform the procedure. The OBD code check box is mounted the aft side of the front strut tower as you may know already.

You do not want the engine running as the directions should indicate. Turn the key to turn on the dash head warning lights and no further.

Perform the procedure exhaustively in each socket until you encounter no new codes.

With LH-Jet, there is procedure to check connected sensors on the FAQ page. The OBD-1 is a guide to issues. A better tool to follow up with is a multimeter with volt, continuity, resistance (ohms), and maybe current, and a few other features.

You also have the ever more oft-mentioned corrosion problem. A 25-year old 1991 Volvo 240 will form corrosion that can cause running problems.

We do know to spin the fuse box fuses as corrosion can form at the mechanical bond current flows across. We would also suggest you, at some point, remove the left driver side kick panel and look at the fuse box as corrosion can form where the wire harness terminates at the fuse box, for example. We also have recent brickboard.com/RWD articles on the recurring issue of corrosion at connections, like the connector to the ignition power stage (and refresh the thermal paste under the ignition amplifier).

The corrosion problem may become far worse for 700-900 and FWD/AWD models as these have long run conductor to a central relay box or platform. All 700-900 owners should dig out the relay platform box under the dash (behind the ashtray) and service it - connectors, relay pins, and some anti-corrosion compound. Sorry to go on so.

Please let us know what OBD codes you get and post back here. We can help with with diagnosis and problem resolution.

Questions?

Hope that helps.

Drive Safely!

cheers,

Duffed

Thank you for the advice- I do have Bentley and Haynes, and a multimeter which does not seems to include continuity as a function.
I have pulled all the codes present in OBD-I - just the O2 sensor one appears.
Fuse box checks OK, although one fuse was on its way out.
Probably 10k on car with light on,. I'm thinking my new Bosch sensor might be bad.( not exactly new, but new when installed in May)
I'll check out 700-900 FAQ

You use the Ohm (resistance) check function on your VOM to test the 02 sensor center electrode against ground during engine exhaust and 02 sensor warm up.

You indicate Rhode Island as your home state, and I guess for your Volvo 240 also.

As you have the Hatlantic Ocean to your East, and humidity, and sometimes harsh winters, that wire harness, and all connectors, and all connections to ground, and where you have a bonded wire harness connection. Corrosion can form, creating resistance and faults.

May I suggest you review articles on corrosion and how it affects and effects the electrics in your Volvo 240. Corrosion not only at the round, spinnable fuse ends, yet also at the wire harness termination to the fuse box.

The wire harness in your engine bay. A mere wiggling of connectors.

Sometimes you have to take on the entire circuit, from the black 02 sensor lead to the ECU, by back probing the large LH-Jet ECU connector, though doubtful. Can't hurt to check, if your 02 sensor test shows a lively and well 02 sensor.

Hope that helps.

Questions?

Thank you.

cheers,

Dud.

Ok, back in town for a day or two, and got to do a little more.
Yes, my 93 has 2.4 and a functioning AMM per multimeter test. Went through the 3 phases of OBd - only shows 1-1-3, and doesn't want to stay reset.
Actually running a little better than last mont- not stalling out.
And it has a massive leak at end of down pipe, so that probably isn't helping. Runs really rich, and skips, but no stall after 5 minutes, which was case before.
Out of town again tonight.

Eliot Porter,

The condition you drive that Volvo 240 in can lead to a automobile fire, destroying your Volvo 240, endangering your safety, and the safety of the people and property around you.

I've found your email address and shall email you DIRECTLY.

I'd rather not see your pricey Cello and other music instruments you own burn up inside a Volvo 240 that is on fire and could explode as you motor to your next music festival or instruction.

You can afford a mechanic's repair, considering your university position.

The running condition you allow is DANGEROUS.

Further, such an exhaust leak is heard at a distance. I'm none too familiar with the auto emission controls and motoring laws of State of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations (the proper full name for RI-state), yet you may be stopped by a RI-state, county, or municipal peace officer (and rightly so) and given a citation for excessive exhaust noise and worse. As gentrified as Providence is, that exhaust leak may offend the entire town.

It's capricious, arbitrary, and contrarian posters with Volvo maintenance issues that ignore sound advice that, for me, makes this effort not so enjoyable.

Beh.

For the sake of Volvo 240. Drive Safely.
--
The Volvo 164: The Mightiest of All Volvo Automobiles in Perpetuity

FYI: You can splice in a cheaper Ford O2 sensor. I did that in my 3.1 91 245. New sensor is better than used.
I forget the details, but it should come up with a little searching. I do remember you need to splice the wire with a crimp connector and no soldering...

And if it ends up you do have a 3.1 AMM, DO NOT try to clean it with spray AMM cleaner. I killed mine that way and they are $450+ new.

Good luck.

Bert

The cut & crimp 3-wire O2 sensor you're looking for is the Bosch 13913 for the short pigtail for the 1985 through 1988 cars, and the Bosch 13953 is for the longer pigtail for cars with the O2 sensor next to the catalytic converter (yours / 1991). These are probably the cheapest solution you can find as they were mass produced for Ford Mustangs, Ranger pickup trucks, etc. You will need 3x crimps and shrink tubes for this. Do not solder the connections as you will kill the sensor. It needs a small amount of fresh air to "breathe" down the stranded wires so that the sensor has a clean/fresh reference air inside it to compare against the exhaust stream.

Polarity of the two white wires doesn't matter, that's the internal heater.

FYI, do not use these sensors for the Siemens fuel injection systems on some of the 740/940 vehicles as it's not compatible.

God bless and have a great day, Fitz Fitzgerald.

... and don't forget the bracket that secures the output end of the header pipe to the support secured to the transmission bell housing bolts on the exhaust side.

This mechanical connection serves many purposes. Not the least of which is the last conductive (bonded) connection between the unibody and the exhaust piping. The 02 sensor may work much better with the connection to ground.

Also, union between the header pipe output and the catalytic converter input is somewhat frail, using a set of three fastener points no matter the union method, and the run between the header pipe connection and the first rubber hanger support, in front of the front resonator, is a rather long run and is heavy.

So, be certain you have this support at the output end of the header pipe.

You may want to check on the torque of the three nuts securing the exhaust manifold out to the header pipe input as these nuts can loosen.

Exhaust leaks, even minor ones, can cause engine control to set fault codes.

Hope that helps.

Welp, gotta find a new job. Nothing like getting sexually harassed on the job by a man for months now. Joy.

The -016 2.4 Bosch LH-Jetronic AMM/MAF is not interchangeable with the four-pin -001 AMM/MAF meant for Bosch LH-Jet 3.1 on manual transmission Volvo 240s from 1989+ with manual transmission and no EGR. The connector is a different form factor as well as the fewer pins on LH-Jet 3.1 AMM/MAF connector.

http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm

Or did you futz with the wire harness to the AMM/MAF?

Have you run the OBD codes? You bentley, Volvo, or 1997 JHayne 240 service manuals show you how. And:

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

So, what did you do?

cheers,

dud.

The connectors are physically different.

Dan