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MAF adjustment help 200

Can someone please advise me on how to have SOME control over adjusting the screw on a 84 245 MAF? Talk to me like an noob please.








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    MAF adjustment help 200 1984

    Here's how I tried to help you with this request last week (on TB).

    It is tempting to diddle that mixture screw. If you really think it is a mixture issue, get it warm and idling and diddle the screw until the oxygen sensor spends about as much time above 1/2v as it does below. That is what the ECU is shooting for. The screw really adjusts the ECU, not the AMM. But do dat after you clean the IAC.

    You didn't respond with any question, so as a matter of course, I figure you took the advice and were successful. It could be you were not, because the mixture setting is not attainable in your particular car.


    --
    Art Benstein near Baltimore

    Yogi purportedly said, "No wonder nobody comes here; it's too crowded."








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      MAF adjustment help 200 1984

      OP: you can stick an LED test light at the right polarity (if one way doesn't work then switch which electrodes on the LED touch which test wires) and then run the car, maybe with some special condition, I can't remember (it's in the BENTLY manual) and it will tell you whether or not your CO2 mixture is good or bad (blinking light = good, no light = something bad, or a continuous light = something also not right; again, look at BENTLY for specs).


      A little off topic but since Art brought it up...

      ART: what does cleaning the IAC do exactly? I'm having an undiagnosed high idle and I can't seem to find any vacuum leaks via the spray bottle water and carb cleaner trick so I wonder if this should be my next move. The car generally seems to be running a little rich, but that just could be all the added wear and tear I've given it in the last few years.

      What happens when the IAC is nice and clean?

      thanks








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        MAF adjustment help 200 1992

        Geo: In my case the dirty IAC caused a "roller coaster" idle effect on start-up: The car would rev-idle-rev-idle-rev-idle continuously. Most often I'd have to shut her down and re-start her because the condition was not self-correcting. Finally pulled the unit, gave it a big blast with solvent and watched the sooty gunk poured out. Hit it with some compressed air to dry it out well and re-installed it. No more issues! Car starts as it should, revs up slightly when cold. Calms down quickly. Pulls away smoothly.

        B








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        MAF adjustment help 200 1984

        The procedure you cite is for LH2.2, not LH2.0. The reference to the IAC cleaning has to do with a separate thread in progress.
        --
        Art Benstein near Baltimore

        A skeptical anthropologist was cataloging South American folk remedies with the assistance of a tribal Brujo who indicated that the leaves of a particular fern were a sure cure for any case of constipation. When the anthropologist expressed his doubts, the Brujo looked him in the eye and said, "Let me tell you, with fronds like these, you don't need enemas."








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          MAF adjustment help 200 1984

          Well thank you for the clarity here. I would hate to have elaborated my own version of the parable of wherever our tinkering touched some silvered steel part of the vessel and I had to repeat the catch line, "there's no place like chrome for the hollandaise."

          And you're right, that was for LH2.2. Wasn't thing retro enough for the 84. My B.








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            High idle topic 200

            Sorry, I was on my way out the door, and unable to give full attention to your personal topic.

            One common reason for high idle in both the LH2.0 and LH2.2 systems (without vacuum leaks) is a damaged ECU. And that particular damage occurs when the owner inadvertently interchanges the electrical plugs for the IAC and the TPS before getting it right.

            Chrome for the hollandaise. Never heard that one before!

            By the way, OP is making some progress. He is using the TB thread now: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=311015
            --
            Art Benstein near Baltimore

            The ad says: "Automotive Technician Training -- Get Job Ready in Less Than a Year."








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              High idle topic 200

              Ah thanks. I'm glad you came back thru the door, PUNctual or not.

              This is off topic at this point but in case you're still listening:
              Well I never once had both the IAC and throttle switch plugs disconnected at the same time so therefore if I fried my ECU it must have been by some other clever mistake of mine. Still hoping it's a simple air leak. With the idle adjustment screw tightened completely in (which I did while the blue test wire was grounded etc.) the engine still purrs at 900 or so. That valve on the TB is completely shut so the likely culprit would be on a route that bypasses the TB. That's why I wanted to know about cleaning the IAC. Mine checks out fine on the ohmmeter but I thought maybe there could be something sticking within it that is allowing that extra air to flow in.

              probably will replace hoses anyway just to be sure.
              thanks for listening







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