EDIT: I realized I was doing the fuse box jump thing wrong. When I jumped from the RIGHT side of #4 to #6, the main pump (I think) whirred to life. When I popped out fuse #4 and jumped from the right to fuse #6, the in-tank pump comes to life. I might be getting somewhere. Both pumps work, so this means bad fuel pump relay, right? I hope so.

I'm leaving the below in case somebody already started reading it, and in case it helps somebody in the future.


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Hey Folks. I'm stuck. My 1989 240 wagon cranks like mad but won't start. With starting fluid it starts, but dies after a couple of seconds. I feel like I've narrowed it down somewhat:

-There's spark to the distributor and spark at the plugs. (I only tested one plug.)

-I removed the oil cap and had someone try to start it, and verified that the camshaft was moving.

-I tried unplugging the mass airflow sensor, but it made no difference. I also cleaned the contacts with CRC electrical contact cleaner.

-I jumped fuse #6 to fuse #4 (supposedly a test for the fuel pump relay), but didn't hear either fuel pump make any sound at all. Actually, no matter what I do, neither fuel pump makes any sound. I even stuck a hose down the fuel tank filler tube and put it up to my ear (with the ignition key turned on).

-I held the fuel pump relay in my hand while turning the key, and it definitely clicks.

-The 25 amp blade fuse in the engine compartment looked fine, but I replaced it anyway.

-I replaced the crankshaft position sensor because the car gave me the 2-1-4 error code.

Here's a little backstory: The car was running great, but it had hot start issues. When the car was hot and I re-started it, I'd need to give it a little gas to keep the engine from dying for the first 10-15 seconds or so. Then it idled and ran fine. Sounds like a possible crankshaft position sensor symptom, right?

For the last few weeks, when the car was at idle, I'd feel an occasional, minor hiccup. I thought I'd change the distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires. couldn't hurt, right? After I did that, the car ran great for a mile or so on the test drive, then the engine died at a stop sign, and I could not get it started for more than a few seconds. The poor thing was bucking and shaking and even let out a few backfires.

I left it overnight. I figured I must have either put in a faulty component (or made some bonehead mistake), so I decided to backtrack by first taking out the new rotor and putting the old one back in. The car started up like a dream. I drove it around town, and it ran just fine until I started it up to leave the auto parts store. The engine would die every time at idle unless I gave it gas. I limped it home like that. By the next day, I couldn't even start it.

I got the error code for the crankshaft position sensor, so I ordered a new one. While I waited for it, I put a different new cap and rotor on, cleaned the throttle body with CRC Throttle Body Air Intake Cleaner (It was really dirty), modded the air filter box so that it always sucks in cool air (rather than preheated - I live where it's never cold, and my old spark plugs showed signs of excessive heat). I also found a broken hose that runs from the rollover valve to the charcoal canister and replaced that. I installed the new crankshaft position sensor and cleared the error codes from the little black box. All I get now from ports #2 and #6 are 1-1-1s, but since the engine hasn't actually been running, I don't know if new codes would show up.

I know this is too long, but I thought I'd preemptively answer some potential questions that I foresaw.

I'm at a bit of a loss, and I'd really appreciate any advice. Thanks!

jump the pumps again

http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump_files/image002.jpg

if it starts and runs, then the Fuel Pump Relay is the problem.

story: I had just filled up my tank, driving back from the MD mts and about 2 miles down the road the engine died. As the semis and the other weekend returners were wizzing by...fortunatly my Volvo "loves" me and chose to die at an extra wide shoulder spot...

Tried the spark first stuff...then I jumped the pumps and it started. (I keep a set of short wires with Alligator clips at each end in my car tool kit....lesson learned when I had to abandon an older Volvo in a parking lot when as it turned out it was the Relay) But as Art showed a simple paperclip works just as well.

Drove it down to an exit for some quiet and yes when I removed the jump the engine would not start. Drove home 130 miles with the jumper in place.

That must've been a bit tense.

A few years ago, I drove my 740 over the Rockies during the summer with a mystery problem that would kill the engine with no warning when the temperature got too high. No Volvo mechanics up there. It was almost suicidal.

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Wine Red 1989 240 Wagon

Just read over your post.
You said it runs on starting fluid. That clears out a lot of things.

You are correct about the relays not turning on the pumps it appears or it's a corroded fuses in the panel problem.

When you jump the pumps you can start the car because the relay is not running the pumps.

What I don't know is the part about how the fuel injection gets turned on?
If it doesn't then the car would not run but starting fluid makes it run only for seconds.
I know the relay has two contacts and I thought one was for the FI and the other for pumps.
Either one, not closing, means it won't run on its on!

You said the relay clicks in your hand but that does not mean that both contacts close but the relay
is working in response to the CPS, ICU or ECU.

Most of us go over the circuit board with a soldering iron and touch up (reheat) the solder lines and add some fresh solder. Make all of it, look shiny again. Thicker can help!

Another quirky thing about relays is the magnetic coil gets warm. If it should become overheated, by aging from shorting turns, it will lose its magnetic field and drop out of duty. Carry a spare! Even the repaired one can be a backup!

Be aware that the terminals connecting all this can get hot as well, so, Check the socket terminals for discoloration or corrosion.

If you ever open up the instrument cluster panel there is a Main headlight relay, in the dash behind and under the left vents, that can suffer the same fate!

I hope that the relay is the problem for you and not 200k old pumps.

Phil

Thanks for the input, Phil. I'll have a closer look at the connections tomorrow, and I'll also open up that relay and see if I feel confident enough in my soldering skills to attempt it.

I might as well pick up a fuel pump relay regardless, but I'm starting to think the CPU may be the main culprit here. All the symptoms I've read of a bad CPU match what I've been experiencing. Definitely, the pumps whizzing when I bypass the fuel pump relay indicates that the relay is faulty, but the car still doesn't come close to running. That could point to the CPU. I still haven't been able to find a test to conclusive determine that the CPU is bad.

I'll pick up a relay tomorrow, and take it from there. I do appreciate the comments. Thanks again.
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Wine Red 1989 240 Wagon