My wagon has manual windows. Last week, before the monsoon rains came, I was preparing to open the driver side window when the handle turned freely, but the window didn't move. In taking off all the parts to get to the window channel or crank mechanism, I have all the screws out except for 1 2 pt. Phillips. It is at the left side of the hard plastic door pocket next to the door lock mechanism. There is no room to get even an offset ratchet screwdriver in there to take the damn thing loose. If the rain stops, I was going to put a hacksaw blade to it and take what's left out with pliers. Do you guys have any ideas how I could get to this blamed screw?

The word DARN was not in the "phrasing of words" I used when thinking of the designer.

If you must be talking about the Phillips head screws at each end of the plastic door pocket.

What I do is drill about a 5/16" hole above the screw head from the outside.

It takes a little eyeballing and estimating the angle of the dangle.
If you start out with a small hole then you can wallow it sideways until it's big enough to line up.
You will have to go big enough to get a screwdriver shank in.

The hole at the front will be down the length of the side. It will look about 3/4" in length.

Start into it at the height of the screw, down a bit from where you think the shank should enter.
After making a hole rotate the drill around inline with the axis of the screw head.
It will look like a screw hole drill at an angle into a wood joint.

The pocket ears were designed to pop over onto those plastic stepped buttons that the screws hold.
Once you get the screws out you will see how the ears are made.

I think they just have placed the screwed on button on the door and then hung the pocket on there?

Even then, it It seems hard to do because the center tab in the middle of the pocket has to be put into the door and the pocket rotated down.
Otherwise, it must be like you said, they must have had a small and thin right angled driver built like an air ratchet. It must utilize a clip to hold the button and the screw while maneuvering them into place. Volvo factory tool "xxxx" not offered to the public.

Nowadays, those ears are brittle and will most likely snap if you try to flex the pocket or spread the forks of the ears over the buttons.
Unless you can push the ears back off the button, into the padding, behind them. I never tried that as they are in the corners!

After you drill the holes you won't notice them down low, especially, the one in the front.

I have reinforced mine with pieces from broken pockets from the JY.

I glue a matching color pocket on the insides to help stop them from flexing and breaking if you get your leg caught. It helps a lot.

The holes sure make it sweet the next time you have to take those suckers off!

Phil

Hey, I was able to get the door pocket and then the front door panel off the car this morning. Here's what I found out:

The door pocket is secured to the door panel by (3) 1/4 turn plastic plugs, and is then secured at each top corner by (2) upper door pocket retainers, which are attached with Phillips head screws. To begin, take out the 1/4 turn plastic plugs,then very carefully (to avoid tearing the upholstery fabric) remove the center attachment of the pocket from the door panel. Lastly, gently tap each top corner of the pocket upward and off the upper door pocket retainers.

Once I was able to remove the door panel, I found the regulator was the problem. The center pivot point of the regulator, which looked to be a press fit, had worn out and separated. The window technician drilled a hole through the aluminum and installed a screw as a temporary measure until I can find a used regulator. At least I have use of the window again.

Andrew

I have many manual and electric regulators---$15 plus postage. -- Dave

Thanks, Phil. I was too tired last night to follow what you were saying. After finding an IPD picture of a replacement door pocket this morning, I saw how the pocket was attached to the door panel. I may try drilling an access hole as you described. That would make it easier if I should have to take the panel back off.
Thanks, Trev, for your response as well. We all learn, or should learn from each other.

Andrew

I'm having a little trouble understanding the trouble, despite how clearly Phil seems to understand.

What I thought was, and this is from memory because it is raining here too, if you remove the three plastic quarter-turn pins from the bottom of the pocket, you then must sneak a finger under the pocket's fork support so it can be snapped up off of the plastic bushing that Phillips is holding into the steel through the door card. The screws remain in place while the pocket is removed. Then access to the screws is unimpeded, even if your screwdriver is a foot long, as I recall.

The only fault I would assign to the Swedish engineers is not understanding we would want to keep these cars 20+ years and believing polymers would remain polymers for at least that long.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Full cry: (Hunting) eager chase; - said of hounds that have caught the scent, and give tongue together.

"The pocket ears were designed to pop over onto those plastic stepped buttons that the screws hold. Once you get the screws out you will see how the ears are made."
Yes. It shouldn't be necessary to loosen the screw in order to slip the ear upward and free from the screw and plastic thingy (ferrule?). Because the panel is soft, pushing the pocket against the door and up should do it.

If that fails, then drilling a hole in the pocket over the screw, the size of the Philips screwdriver shaft, as you suggest, could work. (I haven't tried it but it would make future removal easier.)
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.