|
|
|
I'm going to pull the head off my P220, have a valve job done and get the guides replaced. As long as I'm in there it makes sense to check the cam for wear. Does anyone know what the lift specs are for the A and B cams ?
Thanks
Greg
|
|
-
|
|
|
The motor appears to be a mix of parts. which is not too surprising being as the car is almost 50 years old.
The block has a serial number 5982 and has the bosses for the transmission braces down by the oil pan (the car is a P220, serial #057811). The head measures out like a B18B type 3 (according to the manual) with 0.010" milled off, 3.383" between the sealing surface and the flat for the head bolts. The carb is a Weber DGV and the exhaust manifold has a single down tube...
My plans are to get the valve job done, reassemble it, get it running and then change back to the dual SUs and a dual downtube exhaust manifold and pipe.
Greg
|
|
-
|
|
|
Most of what I found was valve lift specs and they disagreed on the rocker arm ratio. Working backwards from what was given I came up with 0.236" (0.244" for 1.45:1 rocker ratio), or 2.42" for the A cam. 0.253" ( 0.266") for the B cam and 0.268" for the C cam. What I found in this engine was ( front to back )
.231"
.232"
.225"
.233"
.224"
.225"
.222"
.234"
I suspect it is (or was) the A cam.
Valve springs run from 1.802" to 1.826" unloaded.
Valve stems showed ~0.002" wear.
A couple of the exhaust seats were deep enough that the valve face was about level with the combustion chamber surface.
Most of the valves still had a decent margin.
Now the question is: Should I pull the cam out and have it reground ? If so would it make sense to have done as a B or C grind ? This is very much a street car that needs to make decent torque on the bottom end. I'm planning to go from 4.56 to 4.11 gears in the rear end.
Opinions ?
Greg
|
|
-
|
|
The lobe lift you give shows a cam that is in great condition. When they go bad, one or more lobes will have lost 1/3 or more of it's lift.
If you have a single SU or single downpipe exhaust, leave it alone. If you have twin SU's, a dual downpipe exhaust with 2.125 or 2.25" exhaust, you could consider a K cam, which works OK with stock springs.
D cam requires dual valvesprings and does NOT and never has worked properly with stock springs. In fact, the D cam was developed for the Rally Amazon B18B which featured a heavily modified head with dual springs for a 30% boost in power & torque.
Regrinding your cam will work great if you want to go that way because when you grind a cam to have more duration and lift, you remove metal from the base circle to get there except you have to keep the stock LSA which is what you want for a twin SU cam anyhow.
--
69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual
|
|
-
|
|
|
I don't know how you measured those numbers. If it was done with a clock gauge via the rockers I'd say the cam is in pretty good order bearing in mind rocker bush wear and similar factors. You can only really be certain on the cam wear and condition by looking at it and mic'ing up the lobes. The faces of the followers needs checking too and these must go back on the cam lobe that it has run in on.
There is nothing wrong with the A cam. In Europe it's normally paired with a single carb and carried on right until the end of B18/20 production. Yes it is a soft cam with very little top end performance. Nothing left after about 4.5k rpm. What it does do is allow easy town work in top from about 25 mph upwards and is smooth and quiet. Good torque low down and with the 4.56 in the 220 will be useful if you are touring heavily loaded. Gearing in the wagon will mean it's noisy over about 65 mph anyway which is why fitting an overdrive is the best bang for the buck you can get. Although some say there are 4.10 diff gears available via Jeep sources it's not an easy fix and I've never actually seen anyone with it fitted.
K cam is a better choice than the C cam with new followers of course. You will need to up the compression ratio a bit to give it some help but not too much if you want to keep using regular gas. It sounds as if you have a fairly early car so could have the single outlet exhaust manifold. Changing this to the later twin outlet type will give you an immediate 2-3 bhp even with an A cam , maybe a little more with a K. Does mean you'll at least have to fit a new twin pipe front exhaust section. A Simons/Jetex system is a good option.
Keep us updated.
D cam came with the D-Jet. K cam came with the K-Jet.
|
|
-
|
|
|
derek uk wrote--"You will need to up the compression ratio a bit to give it some help but not too much if you want to keep using regular gas. It sounds as if you have a fairly early car so could have the single outlet exhaust manifold. Changing this to the later twin outlet type will give you an immediate 2-3 bhp even with an A cam , maybe a little more with a K. Does mean you'll at least have to fit a new twin pipe front exhaust section."
The OP must be careful about any compression ratio increase. AFAIK - at least for the US market - the motor should have a twin outlet manifold/front pipe - and if it does it will already have a compression ratio of 10:1 and rated at 115hp (lowered to 9.3, Stromberg carbs and 118hp for the B20 in 1969). Measuring the deck height or checking combustion chamber volume should be done before any milling takes place.
BTW--in a Sports Car Graphic series on souping up the B18 (1963) they dynoed a 12hp gain going to a twin outlet header! -- Dave
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi,
I have these in my spare hard drive. Maybe got it from turbobricks or some other volvo forums long time ago.
VOLVO CAM INFO
A-kam Lyft: 10.5, Duration: 260 (B17, B19A, B21A, B23A, B19E (84-), B23E (84-), B200E, B230E, B230A, B230ET)
B-kam Lyft: 10.6, Duration: n/a (B21F, B21E, B23ET)
D-kam Lyft: 11.2 Duration: n/a (B19E, B21E)
F-kam = M-kam (F-kam orginal till B21F)
GR-A kam Lyft: 10.24, Duration 252
GR-A T5 kam Lyft: 11.0, Duration 267
GT6 kam Lyft: 12.5, Duration 312 (nockvinkel 107) (racing, kräver minst 2x45 förgasare eller motsvarande)
H-kam Lyft 12.0 in/11.5 ut, Duration 272in / 268ut (B23E 1979-80)
K-kam Lyft: 11.95, Duration: 268 (B23E 1980-83, B19 Sport)
M-kam Lyft: 9.5 in/10.5 ur, Duration: n/a (B21F, B23F, B230F)
T-kam Lyft: 9.94, Duration: n/a (B19ET, B21ET, B23ET, B23FT, B21FT, B230K)
V-kam Lyft: 11.27, Duration: 245.4 (B200E, B230E)
VX-kam Lyft: 11.37 in /10.65 ut, Duration 245.4 in/236.2 ut
VX3-kam Lyft: 11.37 in /10.65 ut, Duration 245.4 in/236.2 ut (hela kammen backad 3 grader senare)
X-Kam Lyft: 10.65, Duration: n/a (B230K)
Y-Kam Lyft: 10.35, Duration: n/a (B200K)
Hope these helps,
Amarin.
|
|
-
|
|
|
While poster Amarin was well intentioned -- all those cams are for the overhead cam motors. For a carbureted B18/20 a "K" cam is well suited to give good power, torque and smooth idle. You may find that cam specified for a 1975 240 series B20F. The "D" cam will give a little more top end but is better suited for fuel injection. -- Dave
|
|
-
|
|
|
Greg--sorry I can't answer your question--but I do have a suggestion. If you are sending the head out for service -- for not a lot of money have them install hardened seats for the exhaust valves--especially if fuel in your area is 10-15 percent ethanol. -- Dave
|
|
-
|
|
|
Good to know. The guy who does my machine work can install valve seats for a very reaasonable price.
Greg
|
|
-
|
|
Hi Greg,
I'm envious you get to do this sort of tuning to your P220. I very mucgh like the OHV redblocks. I teethed on the metric B20 in a 1975 244 DL and the mighty B30.
I'd guess one would also discern tappet condition for wear and verify the pushrods remain straight and not at excessive wear at either end. I'm unsure where case hardening begins and ends as part of your cylinder head recondition and rebuild.
At any rate, I did some searches for this info:
Volvo B20 Cam grinds
http://1800philes.com/ianr/_superlist_grinds.html
Restoration Volvo 122S 1969 - Restoration Volvo 122S B20B 1969
K camshaft Volvo 122S
http://volvo-122s.blogspot.com/2014/05/k-camshaft-volvo-122s.html
Vintage Performance Developments - Volvo Performance for the street and track
Products: Engine Parts (parts for sale with some useful info)
http://www.v-performance.com/products/engine_parts.html
B20 cam choice 1800 1962
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=332654&show_all=1
B18 Cam selection, with reference to B20.
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?183711-B18-Camshaft-selection
OEM AND AFTERMARKET CAM SPECIFICATIONS - Data compiled by Fredrik Persson
Scroll to: B18/B20 8v cams, rocker ratio 1.45 (TG Motor 1.5)
http://www.turbobricks.com/resources.php?content=camspec
From the OVT: B20 Cam Options (OVT = Oregon Volvo Tuners!)
http://www.ovtuners.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=7966
CatCams UK: B18/B20 Cams (by spec without likening to a factory or known grind)
http://www.catcams.co.uk/acatalog/4cyl_2.0L_8v_OHV_B20.html
- These camshafts fit B18 and B20 pushrod engines. Volvo has used different camshaft specifications, please check cam base diameter and cam height when ordering sports camshafts.
Depending on the engine version and application, extra modifications may be required.
- steel billets with [fuel] pump lobe between 2nd-3rd cam, and [oil pump] gear between 6th-7th cam
You may have researched this info already. More results with discussion using your fave search engine.
Hope that helps you.
Happy Sunday.
MacDuff.
--
Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity
A beautiful Volvo OHV redblock engine from:
https://1962amazon.wordpress.com/volvo-b18b20-engine/
(Though I'd hoped for the B30 in a 164, someday.)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hey MacDuff,
All these motors are just parts bolted together. A little care putting things back together and cleanliness go a long ways.
Greg
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Greg,
I hear you. Thank you. I'd like to do this work again. In a clean, well lit, and maybe heated garage, with room for a few extra Volvo autos waiting their turn.
I really love the OHV redblock engines and would like a 110-120-130 and even a 142/144 with a carb or two and manual transmission.
Just been a long time since doing such work as a hobby when you want to and you'll know it'll work better, last longer, more power, more fuel economy.
Though it seems, in more recent times past, I have to do such work from prior owner abuse that came in under the before the buy inspect.
My fave remains my 1975 (built in '74) 244 maroon DL with the B20 and K-Jet and M40. Wish it had a carb. Just like futzing with them. I'd like to build an engine with mild improvements for regular motoring in dry days. Like to own a 140-160 and earlier, like the model you're working on.
Oh well.
Thank you,
Mac Duffed.
--
Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity
|
|
|
|
|
