Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 3/2022 120-130 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Lower control arm bolt removal? 120-130 1967

I kinda suspected this would happen...

The lower control arm bolt is frozen to the inner bushing sleeve.

Phil S's instruction at vclassics says "Undo the nut at the rear of the big bolt ...and remove the bolt. If you need to tap it out, put the nut back on partway so you don't damage the threads."

Tapping is not gonna do it. The bolt is froze to the inner sleeve and visibly bent as well. I'm glad it's not froze to the crossmember, but I wasn't planning on cutting the bolt.

Any hints on getting this old one out so I can finish this job today....?

-- or more likely ---

Where do I get new bolts, and why didn't I buy them before I started this?

Thanks


--
MPergiel, Walker, MI








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Final resort for removal of Lower control arm bolt. Cut and Pull! 120-130 1967

    Mike;

    If, after removing nut, and using the biggest (3/4" drive if possible), on bolt head with longest extension (car would have to be raised on stands...on a lift would be even better), you can get bolt to turn at all, there is a chance on soaking Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster, or Croil (any good penetrating oil!) into the rust to free it up...but if bolt cannot be turned with the biggest wrench/highest torque (or air driven impact socket) you can get on it, it will likely have to be sacrificed to remove.

    Using torch heat on bolt may help, but will certainly toast the bushings (but bolt is likely being removed for this in the first place).

    ...and how are you certain it's "visibly bent"...that would mean crossmember is possibly bent too...but if indeed it is, that is not going to make removal any easier...

    I agree with Eric...one mans tapping is another man's beating the S**T out of...but whatever you try DO Not Damage threads as these are necessary to employ a Trick 17 pulling removal technique:

    Once all options are exhausted (including tapping or btsoo) cut head off bolt and pull it out using Trick 17...see: http://www.sw-em.com/Trick%2017.htm ...then, I'd take Eric up on his offer for a good used one, and install it with lots of anti-seize!

    Good hunting!








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Final resort for removal of Lower control arm bolt. Cut and Pull! 120-130 1967

      hi sages- of all the names i have seen on this and other forums, uniberp is the most unusual . what in hell is a uniberp? my funk and wagnalls unabridged is no help. is it a gastroenterological anomaly ? surely our smartest sage here could light the way. thanks tons oldduke








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Lower control arm bolt removal? 120-130 1967

    I live in a big city so I I go to the best fastener supplier in town I can order anything I want, the length would be the challenge as u need smooth shaft for most of it, sometimes I need to tap threads a little closerto my dimension. I also cut to length.
    Vis a vis removal,it's of heat....ie red hot if required, maybe do some research on hardening the steel afterwards if u really have to go for it.....
    Maybe try online for bolts that are close and same quality.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Lower control arm bolt removal? 120-130 1967

    "If you need to tap it out, put the nut back on partway so you don't damage the threads."

    The word 'tap' in that statement is what I take issue with (sorry Phil :) )

    Lots of WD40, or penetrant of your choice. Heat to a limited amount (just the sleeve is the goal), and a frickin' sledge hammer. A hammer drill, perhaps, could work. I've never tried it, as I've never had one at the time. But I might try it now.

    Good luck! I feel for you. Been there. Have trashed cars for less, and that's frustrating as hell.

    Consider yourself VERY lucky that it's only stuck in the bushing sleeve!

    --
    -Matt I ♥ my ♂








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Lower control arm bolt removal? 120-130 1967

      Yeah, that quote is from a very old article back when I'd only had to do a couple of them. I've been able to get some more stubborn ones out with lots of propane heat and a sledge while applying all the torque I could. The last one I did with the cross member out of the car, a week of soaking with penetrant, and a friend's very serious hydraulic press.








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        I cut it off with a sawzall. 120-130 1967

        I knew the bolt was not frozen to the crossmember because it would turn, so, seeing there was just enough space to fit a blade in there without hitting the cross member boss, I ordered bolts from CVI and proceeded to cut it off. There are some awesome blades now, but it still took five minutes.

        Then I pried the rear of the a-arm just clear enough to punch the bolt out of the crossmember. It was even bent a little inside there. I had to grind it down to get it out of the other bushing.

        I could tell the bolt was bent because it visibly shifted about .2" as it rotated it.

        I was able to remove and replace the bushings with a c-frame universal balljoint tool. To insert the new bushings it helps to use a 1" section of 1.5 iron pipe, backed up by a plate, so you press the steel lip of the bushing rather than against rubber.

        Now I got to clear the gunk out of the boss support so I can see if that bent bolt cracked the crossmember.

        Phil, your write-ups have been immensely helpful. Thanks.




        --
        MPergiel, Walker, MI








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Lower control arm bolt removal? 120-130 1967

    Unless you can get the sleeve to loosen its grip on the bolt, you may not have a choice but to cut the bolt.

    I suggest cutting the bolt as close to the crossmember tube as possible. Be careful not to damage the tube.

    New bolts from Volvo are now over $90.00.

    I should have some good used ones for $15.00 each.

    I might be able to get new ones for around $30.00 a piece.
    --
    Eric
    Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
    Torrance, CA 90502







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.