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Car is a 1982 245 GL Diesel wagon with the stock quad-square headlights.
When I turn on the headlights, the right low-beam does not turn on immediately. It stays dark and the "bulb out" light comes on.
After two or three minutes, the headlight comes on and the warning light goes out,.
Is this an indication of a failing headlight, or some other issue?
It has been fine until a few days ago, and now this happens every time I turn on the lights. Ive checked on cold mornings and warm afternoons no difference.
Any thoughts appreciated!
-Hendoo in SoCal
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Thank you yet again Art. Somehow I didn't think this was going to be as simple as changing out the lamp.
We got a lot of rain last Sunday night, and I first noticed the issue Monday morning... Poor girl was garaged her whole life until I brought her home.
You know what my weekend project will be!
-Hendoo
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Sometimes I seem to make things look more complicated than they are, trying to cover most of the common causes. It might be as simple as a wiggle of the light socket. You need your headlights to work.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
"Mankind has a perfect record in aviation. We never left one up there!"
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Concur about checking the easy stuff first!
I was able to sneak some time today to look at this.
Visually the wires, connector and ground behind the lamps in the engine compartment looked good.
I removed the lamp, pulled the connector and while it was a bit difficult to remove everything looked pretty good when I got it off. Cleaned both sides with some contact cleaner, put a small dab of dielectric grease on the lamp tabs and put it back together.
No apparent change though; the right low-beam was dark. I did not drive around to see if it would come on after a few minutes like it usually does; will find out tomorrow on the way to the train.
One thing I did notice though... which I should have checked initially is that when the high-beams are on, all four lamps are lit. Back to low-beams and the right lamp is dark.
So this weekend I hope to find time to pull the lamp again and check the voltage at the connector, and perhaps swap with the left side to help isolate the issue.
Thanks to all for your help.
-Hendoo
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Art's Post just above this one,is in line with what I'm thinking. I think the Low beam filament is cracked but with a bump in the road it can make contact with the other side of the filament and 'weld' itself together. Turn off the lights, filament cools and shrinks breaking the weld. Then when it cools filament shrinks and breaks the weld.
Before swapping Headlights side to side, I'd turn the lights on and tap that bulb with my knuckles to see if you get life.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
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Tony, Art and all -- thanks for your thoughts.
I'm just surprised the "laziness" is so repeatable but stranger things have happened.
If it turns out to be a lamp issue, should I look for another Sylvania or is Phillips an alternative? If the online inventory info is correct Phillips is in-stock at my local store, while Sylvania are not. I can wait a couple days if the Sylvania are a better choice.
Also, stay with basic Halogen (~$10) or do the "improved" lamps (e.g. Sylvania XtraVision or Phillips CrystalVision, $17-$25) provide a benefit? I don't mind the cost if there is a benefit... and newer lamp technology is a lot better than the older stuff but I'm not sure how that translates to sealed-beam units.
-Tom in Ventura
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Extra light is always good even if you rarely go out into the boondocks where it will appreciated most. The basic upgraded lights will have a slightly shorter life. A standard good quality one will sometimes seem to last forever. I'm sure there are many 240's still lighting the way with the bulbs fitted when new. If you haven't got E codes every little bit of extra helps but your reflectors have to be good and the plastic lenses will always benefit from a good buff out.
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Now, I'm wondering if I didn't think this through properly.
In your original post you said it took a few minutes to come on. I am envisioning your car parked, idling. I'm thinking "heat related" when this could be easily explained by the even more usual broken filament mode.
The two outer bulbs have two filaments each, high beam and low. The two inner lamps have only high beam filaments.
The filament in an aged-out bulb of this type can support itself from one end, so a break might be a very small gap. When you begin to drive on the road, a vibration causes momentary contact, and a tiny fragile weld occurs. This also explains why my first reaction on finding a headlight out is to whack it. I don't think I'm the only one.
Yes, try the swap.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Be wary of the man who urges an action in which he himself incurs no risk -Joaquin de Setanti
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AB: my first reaction on finding a headlight out is to whack it.
TH: Bingo. A moderate knock with the knuckles and the light comes on. Worked three out of three times.
By some miracle the local Oreilly's had the lamps in stock so I picked up a pair and will install tomorrow.
These are Sylvania "XtraVision" lamps that they claim are 30% brighter than the OEMs... we'll see about that. I just want lights that work.
Thanks for all your help, and my apologies for not having all the facts understood and explained on my initial post.
-Tom in SoCal
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Sat Mar 12 22:22 CST 2016 [ RELATED]
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having an 80 with 4 rounds, my only suggestion is to pick-up an additional spare full set of those squares. next time they may not be in stock and you'll find your self bidding on EBay for "classic sealed-beam headlamps"
Used to be $5 at any parts store.
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Tom, your original post needs no apology. We wish all who sought help here conveyed as much.
I can't offer any review of lamp brands or choices; it is my habit to get the most affordable. Google "Daniel Stern Lighting" for more depth on that subject than I care to plumb.
One comment on your original post: I did not see the photo come up until recently. That's a beauty you have there. And I guess a shiny, running, 80's Diesel of any make is as rare as a two letter call. Your dad is happy.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
If you tell the truth, you don't have to remember anything.
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I am glad you responded, Art. My advice on a wiring harness was way overkill.
It was just the first thing I thought of.
😮
--
"Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '94 940T (400K+), 92 245 (250K+K)
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But the harnesses are a serious issue with the early 80's cars. In Tom's case, I wonder whether Diesel engine wiring harnesses also suffered. I suppose so, but I can't envision them being as complicated as the EFI wiring.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
What Thomas Edison's Mother might have said to her son:
"Of course I'm proud that you invented the electric light bulb. Now turn it off and get to bed!"
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Older 240s have seen wiring harness issues. Has the main harness been fixed / replaced?
Here is a link that can help if you need to look at replacing the harness.
http://www.bartonharness.com/volvoharnesses.html#diagrams
--
"Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '94 940T (400K+), 92 245 (250K+K)
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