Glad to see you got your problem solved. Good call by another poster. I just went through replacing the "cat" on a clients car - a '93 244. Ordering a new one can be tricky because some front pipes end with a "flair" and a captured and loose triangular attaching ring (for lack of a better term) so the cat end has to match----other front pipes end with a welded fixed attaching plate (again because I can't think of the proper term) and so the cat has to have a fixed flat flange (there you go!). Some front pipes mount the O2 sensor -- some mount it in the cat. All things to consider when ordering. I bought one from Rockauto -- was about $110 + shipping - made well -- fit perfectly - came with the round sealing ring for the loose plate system. -- Dave

Hi 83glt,

Glad the folks and your auto repair mechanic technician discerned a cat ball.

Cat ball? Did not even imagine such a thing. How stupid of me.

Yep, hopefully a lot cheaper than what I'd imagined. Glad it's not driveline.

Check with the emissions in your state. If you do not need a catalytic converter as the state does not perform emissions inspection, you may be able to remove it entirely.

However, the engine control systems must have a working 02 oxygen sensor. So, if using a straight pipe between the header pipe output flange and the input on the front resonator (muffler, if you have one), you'd need a bung with thread to receive the 02 sensor welded into a somewhat heavier gauge steel pipe section at about the same position as it is on the now failed catalytic converter of yours. Please research the solution folks have done. Your mechanic or exhaust shop should be able to help you. Ensure a durable and quality weld.

Also, ensure your have connection of the support bracket that, in normal exhaust configurations, securely and reliably supports the output end of the exhaust header pipe. This support is so very critical for RWD Volvo that tends to rust or becomes damage with impacts on speed bumps and the like.

The union between the header pipe output and the catalytic converter (can never spell 'catalytic converter' it right, so says the browser) is a really weak one no matter the union method, whether EGR or not.

Some will say to keep the exhaust system bolt together and not welded up at unions when the repair facility performs exhaust work. Up to you and your mechanic.

Else, chop or chip away pieces of cat inside the current catalytic converter housing. Though if old or rusted, the housing could fail from within as it is an empty chamber. Doubt you could get all the ceramic substrate out, and pieces could writhe further back into the exhaust, causing another clog in time.

Or, replace the catalytic converter with new. Not all are made the same. Volvo OE is incredibly expensive. You can find threads here on your brickboard.com to find recommendation on after market catalytic converters.

Finally, probably from age and high miles, yet be certain your emission controls system works so that the engine is burning the proper fuel to air ratio. Else, a replacement catalytic converter can fail.

You have the Bosch LH-Jet 2.2, I guess with the Hall-Effect based EZK ignition, so verify both engine control systems work optimally for good fuel economy and clean emissions.

My water pump repair failed in a parking lot on my 1990 240 DL li' red wagon. I've replaced many dozens of water pumps on inline 4 and 6 cylinder Volvos, mostly over head cam redblock. It was leaking out the top seal the presses against the cylinder head. Been like 34 years of water pump replacing. Chrysler, Ford, GM V6-V8-I6, VW four cylinders .... Not ever had a water pump repair fail before, ever. Unless the water pump itself failed. That happened once.

So I 'm certain I flubbed it. Popped like a water balloon just as I stopped and shut off the engine. Niagara falls of green coolant. Hates the Prestone smell. Working with engine coolant is nasty.

Hope that helps.

MacDuff.
--
Love your Volvo brick and your www.brickboard.com!

Just called the mechanic and he had just road tested it. It's the cat. He said he knew right away. So there you go. I would never have thought of that, but it makes perfect sense now.

Thanks so much again brickboard!

This happened at 9pm two Fridays ago. I left for a week's vacation the next day at 4 in the morning. Just got back from vacation a few hours before I posted. This is my new (to me) daily driver so I need it fixed asap. So I didn't have much of a chance to investigate. I did peer underneath when it first happened and I didn't see any issues immediately apparent, but it was dark out and difficult to see.

Would I be able to shift if there was a problem with the M47 trans? I am able to shift through all the gears without problem. I didn't notice any odd noises or problems shifting at all since I took ownership leading up to this event. In fact there is no noise at all that I can associate with the trans generally and when shifting gears even now.

Everything appears normal except that there is apparently no power transfer to the rear wheels once I get up to 20/30mph or try to climb even slightly uphill.

I'm very careful about not riding the clutch. I had fluids checked at my last oil change about 3000 miles ago. I asked them to check the diff and trans fluid. They said everything checked out. But there's no way I can confirm they actually even looked - I'm taking their word for it. If it turns out to be a fluid-related problem causing failure, it'll be ironic as I was about to give this car a complete tune up including replacing all fluids. Maybe I didn't get to it in time? Too busy!

Interesting thought about the cat ball. I drove it to the mechanic today - fortunately he's only a couple hundred yards down the road. So we'll see what he says. I'll report back.