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I don't think it's the battery... 200 1980

Then again, I don't know.

The 242 has been in daily use for a while. It has been starting and running fine.

I left it in the driveway for about three hours after getting home from work. Just now I went to put it in the garage and no start.

The chime sounded when the key is put in the switch with the door open like it should. But it sounded a little sick.

Idiot lights display in KPII and the chime picks up a little. In KPIII the solenoid clicked and that's about it.

Headlights/taillights work but it's still too light to tell if they are at full brightness.

Checked battery resting voltage, not per Bentley (disconnect negative cable). I just measured across the terminals. It was 12.72v. That's a charged battery, is it not?

Bad positive cable?

How to proceed with diagnosis?


--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon








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    I don't think it's the battery... 200 1980

    Say test as you did, with someone else turning the key. Only modification, make sure you do it from clamp to clamp, not battery terminal to terminal. My guess is you will find that the voltage drops to 10v or less.

    If so, clean the two terminals, try again. Same result...dead cell in the battery.

    If not, report back.








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      I don't think it's the battery... 200 1980


      Didn't do anything until this morning.

      Did as you said and put the leads to the clamps. Saw maybe 12.5v this time. While my assistant turned the key, voltage read as low as 4 point something.

      Cleaned terminals which were not cruddy at all but I shined them up anyway. Same test. Same result.


      --
      '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon








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        I don't think it's the battery... 200 1980

        Battery is toast...had a couple die like this.

        The final test is of course, if it starts with a jump and shows 13+ volts at a little over 1500 rpms...or just take it to an autozone to have it load tested.








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          I don't think it's the battery... 200 1980


          Didn't bother. Just bought a new battery. The old one was seven years old.

          The Car is back in the garage.


          --
          '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon








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            I don't think it's the battery... 200 1980

            New'ish good quality (by today's standards) batteries hacve an average life span of 5 years. $45 dollar Walmart batteries for your race car...3. So far it seems the extremely expensive gel batteries are actually worth their money if youplan to keep the battery in excess of 8 years.








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              I don't think it's the battery... 200 1980

              hi sages- have never had a gel battery, but thinking of getting one next time out. a few questions: where is good place to get one(brand). figure cost is about 150? do they get charged just like regular lead acid batteries. could certainly be a good deal if they really last 8 years. are they subject to corrosion problems like conventional batteries? does water have to be added periodically? most batteries are made by johnson or exide today. wal mart uses the johnson line. strange they last only about 3 years. thanks tons for the advice oldduke








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                lead acid batteries most commonly die from sulfation 200 1980

                which is essentially like hardening of the arteries.

                most common batteries have lead plates bathed in sulfuric acid. over time a sum of this acid is converted to lead sulfate which coats the plates reducing their potential to produce electricity.

                if you purchase a battery desulfator (a good one is maybe 30 dollars)and connect its wires to the + - poles on your battery within 4 weeks time if the outside temperature is above 32 all the lead sulfate on the plates will dissolve back in sulfuric acid essentially renewing your batteries ability to perform at its designed spec for many more years than its warranty.

                i have a desulfator on a rather ordinary walmart battery which has powered the car for 10 years this december with absolutely no sign of deterioration.

                the desulfator works by using a tiny amount of battery voltage generally only when the car is running to emit a very specific higher frequency sound pulse which is the frequency associated with breaking apart lead sulfate crystals in solution.

                just a thought before going out and spending bucks for fancy batteries.

                search "battery desulfator" on ebay, find a pre-assembled one not a kit with pieces unless you're very handy.

                a desulfator will not fix a physically damaged battery








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                  lead acid batteries most commonly die from sulfation 200 1980

                  wow trich- every time i think ive heard it all and seen too much with auto tech and auto politics, i read a message like yours. never heard of a battery desulfator. theory makes sense though. what brand and price did you get. after using many standard lead acid batts which perished after 3-5 years or sooner i think i want to get one of these. any other recs or info you have on these feel free to spill. thanks tons oldduke








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                    lead acid batteries most commonly die from sulfation 200 1980

                    Hi oldduke!

                    You might like this easy read. I have posted it before when this subject pops up.
                    It has a nice tid-bit of facts in there that average people don't know about.

                    http://www.progressivedyn.com/battery_basics.html

                    It helps explain what goes on in a battery and why using a float charger is helpful to fight a lead acid battery on chemistry to self discharge and how quickily it happens to dip below 80%.

                    Near the end of the article, Q & A, it states why you don't want to let a battery or car to sit idle very long.
                    If you are interested in keeping a battery "sitting all the time" you might buy into their products.
                    It is probably a very good one, since they apparently have the knowledge of what needs to be done. I have not gone there to check them out.

                    I personally like using my cars so those batteries get an equalizing charge from a drive. The car bouncing and jostling takes care of all that.

                    I get by with a simple (on sale cheap, used to be 3.99) Harbor Freight float charger, hooked to several cars or batteries, if they have to set up to a week or more.
                    I try to rotate my driving every three days but of course that is not always possible. Especially if, I take one out of town on a trip.

                    Any batteries I have sitting around get a hand shake or bounce/rocking on the bench.
                    My RV batteries are tricker to maintain so the item in this article would be better in this case.

                    Actually starting an engine and charging it excites those two fluids. It stirs them up. I use a carbon loading bench tester and then a full size battery charger. It does the same thing. You can hear the bubbling if you listen carefully.

                    I have quite a few batteries, right now, that are ten or more years old. I stay very attentive to how the engine turns over for the first sign of any weakening.

                    Anyone should! They don't provide cranks anymore or can pushing an automatic fast enough work out very well.

                    If you carry an extra one around then that's another battery to take care of.
                    You can always carry jumper cables and be prepared to whine for help! (:)

                    I have a couple sets, that I acquired cheaply, but I'll bet, you they won't be in the car I'm in!
                    I hate to brag, because you know what happens, but I have never had to use them for my cars!
                    Only to help others.

                    I recently dumped one battery for a new one. It was still working but turned over slow only once in my '78. The electrolyte showed half charge and would come back up but then drifted down while held even on a float charge.

                    I watch and listen to them because if a weak one ends up in my wife's car, I will never hear the end of it!

                    You wonder why I get into my batteries. Well counting everything I use, that has lead acid batteries, that's nine of them. Quite an investment I'm stretching out!


                    Phil








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                      lead acid batteries most commonly die from sulfation 200 1980

                      oops thanks machine man. oldduke








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                        lead acid batteries most commonly die from sulfation 200 1980

                        fyi: in my experience interstate batteries tend to sulfate up fairly fast if under driven. that said they are high quality and very easy to desulfate if not let go too long. the one in my wifes range rover was under driven for 2 years and according to the auto store testing was down to under 400 cca FROM OVER 700. it would barely turn the engine over. they said junk it. i took the battery off the car and into a heated room and ran the desulfator for two weeks 24/7 as part a constant very low voltage trickle charger (essentially just enough to power the desulfator). the battery came back to brand new specs.

                        i have purchased from these folks in malaysia. they make a very rugged, durable desulfator.

                        http://www.infinitumstore.com/store/p20/12V_Infinitum_Battery_Desulfator_Life_Span_Optimizer.html








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                      lead acid batteries most commonly die from sulfation 200 1980

                      hi trich- will read your article. amazed you get 10 years out of a lead acid batt. do understand the sulfating process. true also about the float charger. old buick started right up after sitting for 2 mos. thanks tons oldduke







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