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stock rear springs 242 DL 200

Hello,
My car sits 1/2" lower on the drivers side (measured at the top of the wheel wells). I presume I need new springs. IPD carries stock front springs, but I'm looking for a recommendation on sourcing stock rear springs (not overload springs, not lowering springs).

1979 242 DL 123K miles

Thank you!
Mike








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    stock rear springs 242 DL 200

    I'd hit the PnP for some 244 rear springs, because 245 springs are going to pick up the rear end too much unless you're towing or heavily loaded.

    http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/YV1AX8848D1894328

    http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/YV1AS880XP1482119

    http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/YV1AA8849L1394761

    71-145-S ; 82 245GLT ; 72-1800-ES








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    stock rear springs 242 DL 200

    What Bruce S said!

    I bet the bushing that are pressed into the axle has failed. That would be your 1/2"

    I don't think you will be disappointed if you got the Overload Springs. The road feel is minimal.
    --
    '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/








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    stock rear springs 242 DL 200

    I have gone through the problem of soft rear spring(s) before.

    I first put a set new IPD Spring's on my '86 wagon.
    I needed more strength due to the extra space and height in the back.
    No matter how much heavy stuff you put in the center of the car it all counts as weight.

    Being a hoarder, I luckily kept the old springs off the wagon, because later on, I got a '91 sedan.
    I noticed immediately the whole reared seemed to set even lower next to my '84 sedan.

    I then got the idea to try the old wagon springs under that sedan.
    It worked out that it picked up the rear end for a little better ride height than my '84.

    Since I have changed all three sedans, over to the wagon springs, the load capacity went up without the back end drooping.
    Now with the trunk can get nicely loaded with a passenger or two the the back. The tailpipe now drags a whole lot less because I can still get that load up there!
    A nice bonus to of this is when not loaded at all, you don't get neck lash going over speed bumps in a parking lot!

    It actually puts a nice little "negative" rake angle on the slope to the car.
    Negative is a machining language term!
    This means to leave the area that is the farthest back away from the cutting tip higher than the front edge that is to do the cutting. This is usually done by tilting the whole toolbit or its insert bed, adding chip breaker chip that's angled and adjusting it away from a cutting edge.

    Now a positive curling cut can be made directly behind the cutting edge works with high speed steel material.
    Both ideas are to make a back angle and force a bend into the metal chip. This bending flow of material causes the chip to break itself.

    On a car, the airflow is upward over the car. Not as conducive for air flow either. So that is why, in mind mind, it is not a "positive" affect! So, by me calling it a negative rake seems fair?

    I don't know what the true term is, for racers or any aerodynamic engineers, but I think that way! (:)
    A inch or more doesn't hurt the look of a sagging old car, so, that is a positive!
    Maybe that type of rake term works for artists and sales designers, if I'm wrong.

    Back on springs now,
    In my wagon, with no load, you can count on a little jump/hop with the IPD overloads. An extra 50 pounds in back helps tame or tune it down and stop neck lash!

    If you go around loaded some in a sedan the IPD's are doable.
    If you want some stronger ride and some comfort empty, go with PnP's off some off a wagon.
    They are about half the price and you can exchange locally to any others that might fit.

    You will may want those from the eighties 240 wagons only as those are the only ones I can speak for!
    I have only switched them in pairs though!

    Both Options, can raise the car into the upper range limit of the shocks. It's the progression range of the springs or sweet spot, for your buns, you have to work for. (:-)

    Have the old ones standing loose and compare each other.
    The bad one should be shorter, softer or have more bounce to sit on.
    Measure or Take them to the yard to compare, if you turn in cores.

    If it's really soft enough you might be able to put on a bigger bottom plate with wheels and a foam seat for a shop stool. Man cave stuff! (:) If there's a core charge, well, that might be beer money for some!


    Phil







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