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Thinking to replace heater core on my 1998 V90 (climate system needs work anyway so with other things replaced why not heater core). Any opinions on which brand to use? I've looked at the inexpensive Nissens and decided not to use it (not putting trust in the plastic couplings). The Volvo one from the dealer is about $300, and there's a Spectra Premium one which I believe is fully aluminum (though some pictures show copper/brass body and couplings) which is about $70. Wonder if it's worth biting the bullet with the genuine part or would the Spectra do? Any other brands out there for the 700/900 heater core?
Thanks,
Vlad
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'98 965
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In case this thread is still in play, I have a copper/brass core that was used for 3 mo, removed, tested at a fantastic radiator shop, and is on my shelf. $100 plus ship.
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After quite a bit of searching I've finally located a copper/brass heater core for my V90 (same core works on 700/900 cars). (Hurray!!) Its a Vista Pro 399235 (pic attached); opening the box felt a little bit like a "blast from the past", the box is marked October 2011. :-) A small dent on the top, I sincerely hope it's OK for functionality (will try to find a shop nearby that could test it for me). Now from the limited experience I have from working on these cars, there's a plate washer on the firewall with rubber backing, and foam rubber seal at firewall penetration, both of which which I believe will be most certainly destroyed when the heater core is removed. Any idea what material I could use to replace these (hope I can find something suitable in a hardware store -- Volvo does not list these parts as available). Also the climate unit box that contains the heater core is sealed with some kind of black sticky stuff (two replacements I could think of: sticky butyl sealant tape or black silicon sealer). What stuff could I use to put these things together properly? (Been searching the FAQs looking in the manuals, etc, etc)
Thanks,
Vlad
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'98 965
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Dear vp965,
Hope you're well. Seek, and you shall find!!! I'd guess the top dent won't matter, but having the unit pressure tested is a good idea. The unit shown seems identical to the unit I have "on the shelf".
The Volvo VADIS parts diagram shows a "sealing washer" (Part #1388523), which part I think fits over the heater core's nipples. I think this part can still be had from a Volvo dealer, for about US$13 (list price). In Volvospeak, "washer" usually refers to a metal part, while "gasket" or "seal" refers to items made of rubber or plastic.
If foam is needed - to seal the opening, where the nipples go through the firewall - you might use the white closed-cell sheet foam used for packaging purposes. This sheet foam has a smooth, slick surface. A store that sells packing materials is likely to have this item.
I concur with Steve that butyl rubber tape should be used to re-seal the heater box sections. Butyl stays flexible for many years and - should removal be needed - is easier to remove than will be a silicone sealant, that hardens with time and heat.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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The foam gaskets could probably be fabricated from some kind of high density foam. They seal the hole from air leaks. The heater box is sealed with butyl tape, the same stuff used on windshields and sold in strips in a box at auto parts stores.
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Well, searched high and low for a suitable material, couldn't find it in any of the local hardware or autoparts stores (surprise)... This is the closest I was able to find: (3/8" foam for the heater core nipples) and (1/8" foam for the rubber seal on the back of the metal washer on the firewall). I'm a little concerned about the higher temperature limit of 194F for the 3/8" stuff: isn't the coolant entering the heater core supposed to be at something like 200F? Really wish Volvo wouldn't stop selling these parts (they're nowhere to be had, unfortunately)... Ordered 1/4" butyl Windo-Weld tape made by 3M for sealing the box (online of course, nobody seems to have heard of this kind of stuff in my local autoparts store). Hope this works. Thank you all for the help!
Here's a sample of what these things look like (from another car, mine are still in place :)
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posted by
someone claiming to be joe bk
on
Sun Sep 11 18:36 CST 2016 [ RELATED]
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One very important thing to consider is that the cost of the heater core is insignificant when compared to the time/cost of the labor for the job. When assembling the 960/s90/v90, volvo put the heater core on a stand and built the car around it. I'm only slightly exaggerating. The entire dash, center console, and most of the component parts need to come out to get to the heater core. 10 - 15 hours or more to do the job.
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Wanted to post the pic of the Spectra Premium that I received from RockAuto.com. The unit came dented (see the pic) so I'm returning it, but as for replacement, this brand or the $300 genuine Volvo unit seem to be my options, as Ready Aire part is no longer available, and I've never considered a plastic/aluminum Nissens core an option. I'm really doing the repair to replace the vacuum servos ("bellows") that open and close vents in the unit, see my other thread:
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1637006/S90-V90/climate_system_v90.html
I took off and took apart a climate unit on a 1997 S90 at a pick-a-part junkyard, it didn't really take me that much time (but I've had some experience with repairing things under the the dashboard before). So the time it will take me to do the job is not so much of an issue, and since the car is not my daily driver this is more of a fun weekend project... The servos seem to be somewhat of a concern though: Volvo parts are no longer available, and I'll try to fit a GM part as jimo suggested in the other thread. Two of the servos on a 168K S90 that I worked on were also defective, so I could only salvage two... I would appreciate any comments from you experts out there..
Vlad
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'98 965
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Another comment on the aluminum heater core from my previous post: the connectors for the heater hoses do not seem to be turned in the right way (they need to be angled by a few degrees IIRC and the ones on my unit are almost perpendicular to the body of the unit). Bending aluminum doesn't seem like a good idea... So, skeptical...
Vlad
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'98 965
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hi sages- have wrenched tanks since 65 and this is just about the most absurd engineering masterpiece i have heard of. replacing the heater core and/or the blower motor in volvo 240s is an outrage.have don this job a few times in fords and dodges and wasnt like this at all- much easier. apparently the same job is much easier and faster in the 740 volvo which is much the same car as the 240. another downside to it is r and r will shred your hands and fingers. figure dealer or indie would soak you 1k to 1.5 k for this job. another issue is once in there should you replace most of the working parts since you dont want to rip all this apart a 2d time. could there be a purpose to such stupid engineering? perhaps it is a hidden dealer profit enhancer. dumb question time- has anyone here devised an alternative way to do these 2 replacements more easily and in less than 15 hrs. one who has actually done this job must have a shortcut/ alternative. thanks tons oldduke btw worried that when this job comes up it may be curtains for my 92 240. bet this has killed a lot of 240s.
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Dear oldduke,
Hope you're well. I once did a blower motor on a 240 series (1975 model, if I recall correctly). It was not pleasant. I did it according to the procedures set forth in the Volvo maintenance manuals.
I later learned of a short-cut: using a hole saw to cut an opening in the passenger-side motor enclosure's plastic wall, through which the motor could be removed. The piece of removed plastic - a circle with a 1/4" hole in the center (from the holesaw pilot bit) - was supposed to put into the opening and secured with duct tape. As duct tape doesn't last, I'd likely have used thin sheet metal to cover the opening, and secured the "patch" with pop rivets.
Because I bought a 1985 GL wagon, I didn't have again to replace a blower motor in a 240 series car. Thus, I never tested the short-cut and cannot be sure how one would disconnect/reconnect the blower motor's wiring harness connector.
On 940s, blower motor replacement is quick and easy. The heater core remains inaccessible. That's why I'd not economise on the replacement part. I agree with you that any nearby parts - rubber/plastic or metal (if corroded) - should be replaced.
I suppose Volvo engineers could have positioned the heater core, to make it accessible from the engine bay. Given the difficulty of changing heater hoses, I'm not sure that through-the-firewall heater core replacement would be much easier.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Dear vp965,
Hope you're well. As a 940 owner/fixer, I stood aside to allow the Board's bonafide 960-S/V90 experts to comment. As they have not, I do so. Volvo used the same heater core (Part #1307236) in almost all cars from 1984 until 1998, when it ceased to build rear-wheel drive cars.
Against the time when I'll need to replace a heater core, I have a Ready-Aire unit (#826H5121). It is all-metal, i.e., copper/brass and lead. As I've yet to install it, I don't know if it will fit properly or last as long as has the factory-installed unit. It seems to be a sturdy item.
I do know that I would not consider using a plastic/metal heater core, because it is hard to access the heater core. When parts are hard to access and/or mission critical - and a heater core is both - I want to use Volvo brand, or another brand of similar quality (e.g., Bosch).
Here's a list of brands and part numbers for a heater core compatible with that described by Volvo Part # 1307236. I do not know which - if any - of these items are sold in North American markets, or what materials each maker uses:
AKS DASIS - 229000N; AUTOGAMMA - 102483;
DENSO - DRR33010; EQUAL QUALITY - RR0079;
HELLA - 8FH 351 308-761; KAGER - 32-0130;
KLOKKERHOLM - 9040306096; KUHLER SCHNEIDER - 3390001;
LORO - 052-015-0006; NISSENS - 73642;
NPS - DRR33010; NRF - 58149;
POLCAR - 9032N8-2; PRASCO - VO6096;
QUINTON HAZELL - QHR2154; SCHLIECKMANN - 60596096;
STELLOX - 10-35129-SX; VAN WEZEL - 59006096
If the auction photo is accurate, an e-Bay seller has a Ready-Aire heater core: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-780-940-960-S90-v90-740-745-760-780-HVAC-Heater-Core-Ready-Aire-1307236-/191643801156
Before buying, you might want to call and ask if the part shown indeed is the part that will be shipped. There's always a risk that an out-of-date photo is used in an auction, i.e., a photo that once was accurate but ceased to be so when suppliers changed the item. You should ask that someone get the part and compare it to that shown in the auction photo. If the part matches the photo, at least you'll get an all-metal heater core. The part shown is identical to that which I bought.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Tried to get the Ready Aire core from the eBay seller (QE Auto) through their website and through eBay. Both times received a message that the brand I requested was not available and offered Nissens as a replacement (called after a first attempt and was told that the eBay item *is* in stock, then after I paid for it it was not). The auction page is still up, so this looks like the common variety bait-and-switch operation, I'm sorry to say. That's unfortunate, but OK I guess, will just keep looking...
Vlad
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'98 965
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By the way, two more brands with pics online that look like OEM:
Action Crash HTR010345 $103.98
(I'm guessing this may be a used (refurbished??) junkyard part... Mmm I could pull one myself from an S90 with 116K at a local yard...)
APDI 9010363 $95.33
(prices from partsgeek.com)
Asked the seller about material/construction, here's their response which is actually typical from what I've heard in other places:
"Other than the parts description there is no way of knowing what it looks like or is made of. The picture are not always a depiction of our parts."
Anybody knows what APDI core is and whether I'm right on the first one?
Vlad
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'98 965
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Dear vp965,
Hope you're well. Sellers - who post out-of-date photos or refuse to provide accurate technical descriptions - are simply lazy. They don't grasp that: (a) returns are very costly and (b) for some parts, the devil is in the details.
I'd ask the seller if they have the part in their own warehouse, or if they rely on a "fulfillment center". If the former, they should be able to get an accurate photo of it. If the latter, you should ignore them: there's simply no way to know what will be shipped. Eventually, such sellers will be driven from the marketplace (pun intended).
I'd not use the plastic/aluminum units: that's a disaster waiting to happen. Nissens radiators have a 10-year working life. But one can easily inpsect/change a radiator. A heater core's inaccessibility means only time-tested, durable materials can be used.
Keep searching: someone is bound to have the copper/lead unit, other than Volvo.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Dear Spook,
Thank you for the expert advice! I'll keep an eye out for the Ready Aire unit which indeed looks similar in construction to the original core. In the mean time I've ordered a Spectra Premium (looks like that's what's available in North America) if only just to test the waters -- if I don't like it I'll pay the return shipping to send it back. I'll post the info about it; I suspect as you also say that the pictures on the net may not be of the most current model. We'll see. With so many parts on my car due for replacement I find it's a little out of line to pay close to $300 for the dealer part... At this stage (before I went in and broke some hard-to-replace plastic parts) it's just a fun project...
Thanks,
Vlad
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'98 965
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Have you check Tasca for the price???
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Dear hf63,
Hope you're well. Even at a 30% discount to the "list" price ($355), the Volvo branded item will still be $248, nearly $100 more than the Ready-Aire unit offered by an e-Bay seller.
Never having held either a factory-original or Volvo Brand replacement heater core, I can't say whether or not either is of higher quality than the Ready-Aire unit.
If someone can post the weight (pounds/ounces or kilos/grams) of the Volvo-Brand unit, I'll compare it with the weight of the Ready-Aire unit. If the Ready-Aire heater core is much lighter, than would suggest the Volvo Brand unit is going to last longer. If the two are the same weight, then I'd guess there's not likely to be much, if any, difference in service life.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Just a thought about brass-solder heater cores... You really need to pay attention to coolant quality when you use them. The normal Prestone Green does not treat them well (silicates tend to precipitate out and cause localized corrosion at solder joints); orange Dexcool is not good. Volvo C is a good choice as is Zerex G-05 but those are really engineered for the aluminum composite systems, not the older brass-lead solder. I just wonder what Volvo OEM heater cores look like. Ours are original, going on as old as 27 years, with no leaks thanks to rigorous use of Zerex G-05 and distilled water. We don't live near the seashore, either.
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Can't attest to what heater core is supplied by Volvo now (parts designs change, and materials too) but the one installed in my car is copper/brass, judging by the outlets connected to the heater hoses... Perhaps aluminum is OK too for this application, isn't a Volvo 850/S70/V70 heater core made of aluminum ? BTW received the Spectra Premium part from an online parts vendor, it's all-aluminum construction. Part came carefully packaged in a box, but with a big dent on the side of the unit, so I'm inclined on returning it and getting a Ready-Aire (the seller claims it's as pictured...)
Vlad
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'98 965
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I replaced the heater core on my 1995 965 with aluminum. Mostly because I didn't want to set up galvanic corrosion between the different metals, as the engine and cooling radiator are both aluminum, and especially with some of the porous aluminum blocks on early 960s. Aluminum is much less noble than copper or brass. By the way, I never want to do that job again!
Here is an in depth article comparing the aluminum and copper radiators:
http://www.cgj.com/2013/06/27/aluminum-vs-copper-brass-radiator-the-great-debate/
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This article does not take into account the fact that copper in heater core controls sanitary of the incoming air. Aluminum does not post a perceptible barrier to mildew, bacteria, germs etc. whereas copper is able to stop most of that stuff.
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