It has been a long time since I changed out a CPS on a 240. The 7/9 cars have adequate room and don't present much of a problem, but this 240 is going to be a real challenge for me.

I remember the last time I did a 240 I worked from the bottom. However, after getting this car up and going after it I find that I can hardly get my fingers on the bolt. Removing the starter would provide more room on that side, but the sensor is more on the other side of center.

Going down from the top to get at the bolt might work with a universal extension on the socket, but once the bolt is out I am still faced with carefully removing the sensor so as not to break that old brittle plastic.

Any tips would be considered and appreciated. Thanks.

Randy

Couple of years ago I changed one my laying on top of the engine and feeding ratchet extensions through the space on the PS along the firewall. Next time I'll loosen the motor mounts and jack up back of the engine a little. That'll expand the working space.

Mine are the new style so it is a bit more frustrating.

I loosen the bolt from the side with a 10mm ratcheting wrench. I go on top of the engine with a 1/4" socket wrench and a wobble extension to remove the bolt and cps together, if I can put tension on the CPS wire to keep it and the bolt together.

Going back in is tricky , I place the cps in the bracket and then put the bolt in the socket with some thin plastic to hold the bolt in the socket. Then from above using just the extension I start the 10mm bolt by hand, once it is threaded I use the wrench to tighten the bolt. I hold a bright LED flashlight in my mouth to help see what is going on.

The tricky part is lining up the CPS so the bolt will go in far enough to thread. This can go easily or take forever depending on how your luck is!

Dan

Thanks to both you and Art.

I was able to loosen the bolt with 10mm combo. I managed to use my thumb and forefinger to turn it and extracted it without dropping it.

The CPS would not move after the bolt was removed. I had sprayed the area with PB Blaster yesterday and repeated several time again today. I was able to place a screwdriver in the bolt hole of the sensor from the passenger's side and tap it with a hammer until I got some rotational movement out of it. Then to the other side with a piece of flat steel and a hammer to tap on the other side. More Blaster and many rounds of tapping finally loosened it enough to be able to move it with my fingers. After it turned freely I was able to lift it out.

I was not too bad getting the bolt tightened up by hand after I was able to place it in the hole from above using one of those spring loaded grabber tools. I snugged it up with a ratcheting box end.

Also on the agenda today was removing an O2 sensor and the exhaust system on our 940t. It's full Volvo days like this that make me think those $200 a month leases on Honda Accords are worth looking into...

Randy

$200 leases sound good as long as you can live with the mileage limitations. Not sure about Hondas but some of the newer engines have gone away from timing belts to timing chains.
Dan

Good Job Randy,
Cool , Calm and slow got it out. NICE. The first time I did mine, I BB'd the job and got myself all in a lather knowing I was in for stuck CPS and possibly Broken bracket. Turned out that after figuring the plan of attack to the Bolt, the CPS slid out, no issues. I planned the day around this and in 20 minutes the job was done.

Glad you were able to get it to twist out.
Hey, before you jump into a Lease of a Honda, do a Timing Belt on one.
The easy CR-V takes 3X longer than the Volvo with much more 'Oh Sh*t ' moments. The V6 accord. two belts and some front end removal. Engines were never meant to face the Fenders : )
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

I have had multiple Hondas and I can state they are one of the worst cars to work on. Nothing is accessible without disassembling a bunch of stuff. Just change the oil on one of them - the filter is tucked away behind the engine in a nasty spot.

On the other hand, the nice thing about Hondas is that rarely if ever need repair. Even the timing belts on them are now rated at 110,000 miles (some of them don't even have timing belts any more). This is well above the lease mileage.

But $200 a month is still $200 a month. I don't pay that for my Volvo - even counting my repairs. But I am a real cheapskate.

So far, I've been lucky enough not to run into one of those sensors swollen into the bracket. I guess the water follows the broken cable sheathing into the unit and the rusting reluctor core expands to lock the thing into the bracket.

And the bracket isn't that stout.

I'll remember your technique to get the thing moving (screwdriver levered through the mounting hole) when I eventually get the opportunity to work on a stuck one. Thank you for that description, and no thank you for the Honda idea. Sense of accomplishment.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Why do we leave cars worth thousands in our driveways and put our useless junk in the garage?

Everyone has a different method, it seems, Randy.

The 89 and 90 seem much easier to me than the 91-93, because that GM AC is not in the way.

I just use a flashlight and mirror to remind me what it looks like down there, then with 10mm stubby combination wrench to break the bolt loose and thumb and index finger to remove it.



No sockets, extensions, wobble joints, universals, nor crawling under the car. And no, I'm not left handed, and wear XL gloves.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Two fish swim into a concrete wall. The one turns to the other and says "Dam!".