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All Indicator Lights On and Flicker When Engine is Started 200

Hello all. If it is not one thing (just replaced the pipe between the front and rear mufflers) on my wife's 1980 244, its something else. So today for the first time she shows me that when the key is turned on and the engine is started/idling, virtually all the indicator lights on the instrument cluster are on with very slight flickering. If the engine is rev'ed high enough, they seem to go out until rev's are reduced. I checked the alternator belts and they are fine. I checked the ground strap between engine and firewall plus all connections around the battery. I did find that the spade connector between what I think is the oil pressure sensor (next to the oil filter on the block) was disconnected entirely. I reconnected hoping that might do something. It did not. Not sure how or how long that has been disconnected. I then put my digital VOM with red to the positive battery terminal and black to a solid ground on VDC. The reading was a bit below 12V. I expected that when the engine was started and rev'ed I would see this climb due to the charging circuit kicking in. But upon starting, the voltage dropped to 10+V and stayed level. I have no idea how old the alternator might be. The battery is certainly over 5 year of age. So where to go/check next? Thanks!








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    All Indicator Lights On and Flicker When Engine is Started 200

    Just in from installing a new rebuilt alternator. It was a Bosch rebuild. Came without pulleys so I took it to a local shop and paid them $10 to hit it with their electric impact hammer. The one odd thing was that, while the fan/pulleys fit the shaft on the new unit just fine, the lock washer and nut from the old unit had a larger diameter and just slipped over the threads. Thankfully, the shop guy had seen this before and happened to have the right size stuff just sitting on his workbench. Anyhow, took the time to inspect everything: bushings, belts, all wires, etc. Snugged the two spade connectors a bit and put all back together. Before starting the engine I read 12+ from battery + to a ground point. With engine running I get 14+. No more lights on or flickering. So I am calling this one done. I will hold onto the old unit, I guess. Thanks to all! I wonder what will break tomorrow?








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    All Indicator Lights On and Flicker When Engine is Started 200

    At this point I am leaning towards getting a whole newly rebuilt alternator. The unit that came out is marked AL70X which seems to be a 55 amp alternator. I am also seeing units for sale marked AL57X which are claimed to fit. They are a bit more expensive ($35-50). Which should I get? Is the higher amperage unit going to be physically larger making it more difficult to install? Thanks








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    All Indicator Lights On and Flicker When Engine is Started 200

    And the photo of the armature (think that is what it is called)looks equally strange to me. One side is copper colored while the other is black-ish. So clearly at least the brushes need attention. But better to swap a new rebuild into place here? Thanks









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      All Indicator Lights On and Flicker When Engine is Started 200

      Hi David,

      Must be nice on Whidbey Island! I'll guess this is your 1983 Volvo 240?

      Almost moved to Bellingham in July 2013. Had a Ferndale rental residence. Spokane is evil.

      The Bosch AL57X is a 70-AMP alternator. The alternator you have now is maybe the 80-AMP model. You will need remove the pulley from your current alternator and install it on the shaft of the new alternator. The new alternator does not include the pulley. A Bosch reman may include the pulley. Unsure.

      You may need a special socket or tool to remove / replace the pulley from the alternator. Though this board abounds with remove / replacement methods.

      https://www.ipdusa.com/products/10889/124384-alternator-80-amp-240-740-940

      The extra ten amps of (maybe) your current and later 240, 700, 940 won't hurt. A good battery provides load and will charge a little faster with the extra ten amps. Yet as you like.

      As for your current alternator ...

      One regulator brush is merely worn far further than the other. The shorter brush barely makes contact with the (darker) slip ring. Why the dash head lights are on after the engine starts.



      The slips rings appear fine, yet I'll defer judgement to our Art B and others. Some may suggest using a ultra fine emery cloth or, better, pencil rubber eraser to brighten and polish the surface to enhance the new brush tips to seat or wear in with the slip ring surface.



      These brushes are Bosch part number 11011 and are around 7$-12$ or so for the set.



      With a soldering iron, you merely replace the brushes. You Tube and other resources contain instruction on voltage regulator brush carrier brush replacement.

      For extra insurance and peace of mind, you can replace the entire Bosch voltage regulator / brush carrier complete. around 27$-37$+ or so.



      https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6911/103064-voltage-regulator-brush-pack

      Or the entire alternator with a Bosch branded NEW or reman. Say no to the AutoZone and such rabble remans.

      Though as you mention the alternator has been replaced, you will want to mention the Bosch alternator model, if the label is on the housing. A part number may be stamped on the housing. I'm unsure, yet the 240 alternator change from a 55-AMP, and then a 70?, to a 80-AMP alternator on the 1984-86 model year, so, though Art, again, would give you the correct guidance.

      If you could find an import auto repair or auto electrical repair service shop near you, that is honest, they can replace the brushes with new Bosch brushes in the voltage regulator / brush carrier. They can test the coils, bearings, slip rings, and AC to DC rectifier diodes.

      You could keep the old alternator as a ready to go spare you may need on Whidbey Island with you in 15 years or so!

      The BrickPix instructions need updating. Your only limit on uploading images to BrickPix is a image file size no larger than one megabyte. No image pixel size restriction.

      Use Art's instructions here to post. Use the full image URL and not the relative URL BrickPix serves up.


      Instead of the relative URL BrickPix serves up (your alternator slip ring image):
      /GALLERY/images/12665.jpg

      Use the full URL (same image):
      https://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/12665.jpg

      Questions?

      Hope that helps.

      Thank you,

      Bruce.
      --
      Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.








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        Slip rings fine? 200

        "The slips rings appear fine, yet I'll defer judgement to our Art B and others."

        I dunno Kitty. What I see from here is different. Granted you're a thousand miles closer, but I suggest you reach your pinky into the PNW and put it on that outer slip ring, and see if you don't feel what I perceive to be a deep rut carved in it, based on the shadows in that pic.

        Yeah, I agree, get another alt. Doubtful there'd be a local auto electric shop out there unless D is lucky to have a retiree set up in the business.
        --
        Art Benstein near Baltimore

        "On the other hand, you have different fingers." —Steven Wright








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    All Indicator Lights On and Flicker When Engine is Started 200

    It stopped raining here finally. So off came the alternator. Thankfully pretty easy to do. The wires all look pretty solid - including the one going to the engine block. But as can be seen in the photo, the bushes look pretty odd to me. The inner one is worn way down while the outer one seems hardly touched. I did check and it does NOT appear that the inner one has been pressed down and is somehow being kept from popping back up. Not sure at all what to make of this.









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    All Indicator Lights On and Flicker When Engine is Started 200

    Just dug out records on this thing.

    I see that the voltage stabilizer (didn't even know it had one)was replaced. I see that first the brushes were burnt and a regulator with brushes was installed. Maybe a year after that, the entire alternator was replaced. So this was all in the mid to late 90's. So any of this could be overdue. Thanks








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      Sounds like short brushes but could be a broken ground. 200

      Don't forget the most important ground straps. The braided one at the cam cover to firewall is just for radio interference. The important grounds for the alternator are the one between the alternator case and the engine block at the mounting bracket, and the battery negative cable tying the block to the body with its two cables.
      --
      Art Benstein near Baltimore

      He who obtains has little. He who scatters has much. -Lao Tzu








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        Sounds like short brushes but could be a broken ground. 200

        Thanks Art. If it ever stops raining here, I will go out and check the one's I have missed so far. Any ideas on replacing brushes versus the entire alternator? I am sure it was a rebuild when installed in 1996.








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          Sounds like short brushes but could be a broken ground. 200

          If I'm guessing right about your level of desire for detail, I'd suggest you pull the alternator out, but don't let go of it. Don't trade it for one of those crummy AdvanceReillyZone Lifetime units unless you have to because the slip rings are worn out or the bearings rattling. Look it over before you give it up. You may just be able to treat it to a new regulator/brush pack. While you have it out, remove and thoroughly inspect the blue ground wire. They go bad under the insulated ring terminals.
          --
          Art Benstein near Baltimore

          "I don't belong to an organized political party. I'm a Democrat." —Will Rogers







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