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1990 240 DL Wagon
ok.....this is weird.....
a couple of days ago, I was at a local store facing their big front window...
and I noticed....when I depressed the brake pedal...
my headlights come on (as well as the indicator light on the rear-window defrost.
I *ASSUME* that this is NOT a normal thing? lol
Any thoughts or suggestions?
David
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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It is normal. For a wagon. Would not happen in a sedan.
Time for hinge wiring repairs.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
If you can smile when things go wrong, you have someone in mind to blame.
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more specific info........
My son helped visualize.
depress the brake pedal and....
headlights turn on, parking/marker lights turn on, passenger side brake light on. Driver's side brake light off.
suggestions on *WHAT* to fix?
*incredibly* limited budget and minimal tools.
Thanks,
D.
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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clean all grounds at each corner of the car,,
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Ok.....got both of the new harnesses in....during the hinge removal portion, my foot hit the ladder while I was pulling the last bolt.
25 year old liftgate falling on you is not fun.
got everything threaded through the channels on the doors....then did the wires one at a time as to not screw up the connections......
Got everything back together and............
brand new wiring....still have the same issue. (and this time the lights all stayed on after the key was removed (headlight switch was turned off).
Battery is disconnected now.....
Any thoughts?
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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Hmmm, you and I both thought you'd be done once the falling-apart old harnesses stopped shorting wires one to another.
Now you're going to have to actually troubleshoot. The lights you are referring to are the low beams, right? Check and be sure. Then locate the headlight relay which will be under the driver's left toe, more or less, identified by the wiring colors in the socket. Big yellow, big green/red, small white, blue/white, and black. Check the number on the relay, if there's any chance someone put the wrong type in: 1324749*.
That relay is what turns on the lights. It is wired to turn them on only with the key switch on. So, if the lights are on, the blue/white wire ought to have battery voltage on it. But it should not if the light switch is turned off, so you need to find out why it does if it does, or how the lights could come on without the relay being energized. You might find the relay is full of water and rust. I can envision a similar symptom arising if the bulb failure warning switch (orange can) got full of water.
*On mine, the Volvo p/n is nowhere to be found. Bosch 12V 2x15A 0332015012
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
The secret of a good sermon is to have a good beginning and a good
ending; and to have the two as close together as possible. - George
Burns
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installed new headlight relay. Still have the same issue.
Any ideas?
sorry it's been so long since an update. been way too damn cold to work on the car.
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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finally had some time to work on the wagon today. No snow. not cold as hell. not raining. comfortable temperature. No grand-daughters running around.
pulled each fuse on the driver's side door pillar individually.
Fog light circuit. When I pulled the fuse, headlights turned off and the other lights work as expected (except for the driver's side brake light.
I pulled that and there's some corrosion on the contacts.
for now, the fog light switch is disconnected until I determine the root cause of the issue.
Been thinking of hardwiring the lights anyway, so this might be a good time for that project.
and of course, about 10 minutes later.....it started to rain again.
ugh.
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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You seriously still at it with this wagon?
Interesting about the interaction with the fog lamps. In the '90 the rear fog lamps are just one lamp. That should be the one on the driver's side. The fog lamps are run with a white wire. The maps show it does cross the harness to the other side, but the bulb should be omitted.
However, someone in this car's past may have decided to make the fog lamps symmetrical, like they used to be before the rule changed. Or, someone installing front fogs may have wired the sockets in tandem with parking lamps or worse.
Maybe you can just isolate the white wire, preferably on the left side where the harness comes by the spare tire. Disconnect or cut it and see how the truth table of your lighting symptoms changes.
Always, always keep in mind we are our own worst enemies when it comes to technical puzzles.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Do you remember when you were a kid, playing Nintendo and it wouldn't work? You take the cartridge out, blow in it and that would magically fix the problem. Every kid in America did that, but how did we all know how to fix the problem? There was no internet or message boards or FAQ's. We just figured it out. Today's kids are soft.
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yep, still at it. until a couple of days ago, it was either way too cold up here to do any work at all on it, too much snow, raining buckets or the grandkids were here. I got a break in the weather and a break from the grandkids on the same day.
my diagnostics were pretty simplistic...I disconnected each fuse one at a time and checked all the lights to see if they turned off. It was probably the wrong way to do it, but it's working for now.
Factory installed fogs, but there's a few things in the car that I haven't seen anywhere else (like a random red LED on the dash below the instrument cluster. I have no idea what it's for. perhaps an after-market alarm system that was subsequently removed, but they left the indicator light for some reason. I don't know.)
Don't really know a lot about vehicle electronics, so 90% of what I've been doing is advice from here or trial and error. And again, since I have an extraordinarily limited budget, I have to MacIver things when I can, then when i can afford it, do a proper repair.
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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Ahh, OK. So we can safely say you're happy with what you've got.
Hmmm. "Factory Installed Fogs" Some reason that strikes me funny. Yes the LED is aftermarket.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Why do they put pictures of criminals up in the Post Office? What are we supposed to do, write to them? Why don't they just put their pictures on the postage stamps so the mailmen could look for them while they delivered the mail?
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well....the lights are working, anyway. Still need to tackle the driver's side top light, but I suspect corrosion is the issue there.
my son made off with my 10mm 1/4" drive socket, and he's out of town. so I will have to wait to pull the lens and hardwire the socket. grrr.
I noticed that the wiring for my reverse lights is hanging down under the car.
Is there a way to replace that *without* going under the vehicle? kind of a tight fit with me. ha ha 5-speed manual, if that matters.
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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Some should not gyrate qwerty at times. One of them. Sorry.
I write to mean:
Some US states mandate you use fog lights, or auxiliary driving, lights with the low beam headlights only.
These factory front fog lights may be wired in such a way that as you switch to high beams, the fog lights, or auxiliary driving, lights, shut off.
Unless you mean, as Art indicates, the single rear, rear fog light, in the top most red lens reflector chamber, on your 1990 Volvo 240 Wagon driver (car left) side.
Some may want to wire them up to have two sets of brake lights either side, also, though disabling the driver (left) side fog light. Or as Art says with rear red fog lights on both side of the upper (sedan inner most) large red reflector chamber.
Though you do that with a set of diodes or a type of diode, a zener diode (???) to keep fog light and brake light function? Yet use all four of the large red lens reflector chambers for brake lights, sedan or wagon .... ?
That was a long time ago.
Your reverse light wiring is beneath the car body? Do you mean the transmission reverse light switch wiring or the tail light wiring.
On my 1990 240 DL Wagon, the insulation rotted off the conductor and began shorting in such a way as to, and I dunno how, fry the brake (stop) light switch. It had been in an accident now some 17 years ago. The harness is well miswired. Add to that a 1993 fuse box cover and label. Oh, the heuristics. Funny antics followed.
I pulled the reverse light switch wiring out. The switch is good, yet I, like you, Wolfsden, was not up to recreating the wiring. So, an illuminate when on, center console dash light switch is planned for the rear tail light assembly reverse lamps.
And don't use the reverse gear when parked.
Not that cold in Vermont, now. Yet is raining. Yet, no soggy Volvo work.
MadcDuffed.
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert. 
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the transmission reverse light switch.
the last time I was looking under the car (dropped a socket. imagine that!), I noticed that the wires for the reserve light switch on top of the trans was just hanging there.
If I can get to that spot without crawling under the car (as I said, it's a bit snug. I'm a bigger guy than I used to be.) that would be optimal.
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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Hiya Wolfsden!
Happy Mundane (all day long)!
I'm very sorry to indicate the M47 manual transmission reverse light switch on your mighty, if relentless, 1990 Volvo 240, fabricated with Odin's iron might, is on the driver side (car left) side at the top, slightly forward of the middle, of your manual transmission.
Item #13 in the image is the reverse light switch location on your manual transmission.
An Turbobricks article mentioning a 1990 Volvo 240 Wagon and the Transmission Reverse Light Switch and Wiring (insulation) problems (You'll see the familiar name of a brickboard board member friend):
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=299208
The connection at the revser light:
Image is of the top of an M46. The same for M47 nearly. (I had gotten the M46 fourth gear overdrive switch confused with the reverse light switch location before I started writing a reply to you. D'oh. Bart.)
Image from: http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/index.php
Please see this brickboard thread:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=326856
Though the factory connector have black rubber boots on them.
If the wires hanging down do not have the connectors on the end, the wires may have broken. The connector ends are on the switch. If the connector ends are on the switch, you may want to fabricate a harness of quality wire with durable insulation. Some may use a braided, and not stranded, copper conductor, as braided conductor can endure flex and vibration better, usually.
The later brickboard thread mention a prefab wire harness pig tail with connected conductors available at Dave Barton's site: http://davebarton.com/
The 1990 Volvo 240 transmission tunnel is a narrow beast meant for hamster-sized mechanics, or hamster mechanics, to do such work.
I have ham handed hands, so, I've had to lower the rear of the M46-M47 transmission after removing the transmission support cross member. So, you have to raise the 1990 240 Volvo wee beastie up on axle stands, using the chassis support behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels (where you place the tire jack). And then lower the rear of the transmission to such a point that can:
- Secure the connectors to the reverse switch
- Ensure proper reserve light switch harness routing. You also secure the harness using tight enough (not overly tight) black-UV resist plastic zip ties to the shift level mechanic, so that it does not bind, and passes up through the shift lever hole. Factory harness securing secures it on two side of the shift lever mechanism, around the front of the shift level, if I remember rightly.
Yet I flushed the brake fluid on my 1990 240 DL wagon as well as screw with the malformed exhaust (hits the drive shaft center support bearing, as exhaust shops are incompetent). The wiring insulation had deteriorated. So, I have an illumination rocker center console 240 dash switch, and mean to use that.
Someone else may have better way. I'm quite certain you have to raise the Volvo 240 up. And reach up to secure the reverse light connectors onto the reverse light switch.
iPds FAE brand revsere light switch kit:
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/12154/125648-reverse-back-up-light-switch-kit
I had a single bad experience with Made in South Africa FAE as a stop (brake) light switch.
The Switch itself, no wiring as a kit, by Febi:
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7213/113201-reverse-back-up-light-switch
FCP Euro has the, what they call, back up lamp switch, Volvo brand:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-back-up-lamp-switch-s40-30729812
(Made by Febi - Febi PN 80453002615)
They also have the FAE brand switch, on clearance:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-back-up-light-switch-standard-transmission-9442728
Does that help? Sorry to go on so.
Thank you,
MacDuffy's Turmeric and Ginger Tavern
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
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Hmmm. Replaced a part and it still don't work. Gosh, I have no idea.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
By all means, marry. If you get a good wife, you'll become happy; if you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher. - Socrates
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well, it's *ALL* the lights.
Headlights
marker/parking lights (all four)
Passenger side brake light (driver's side does not light)
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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Just curious; what happens to the other two brake lights when you use the brake pedal?
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Dear Walter,
I hope you can help me here. The other day, I set off for work leaving my husband in the house watching the TV as usual. I hadn't driven more than a mile down the road when the engine conked out and the car shuddered to a halt. I walked back home to get my husband's help. When I got home I couldn't believe my eyes. He was in our bedroom with the neighbor girl.
I am 32, my husband is 34, and the neighbor girl is 22. We have been married for ten years. When I confronted him, he broke down and admitted that they had been having an affair for the past six months. I told him to stop or I would leave him. He was let go from his job six months ago and he says he has been feeling increasingly depressed and worthless. I love him very much, but ever since I gave him the ultimatum he has become increasingly distant. He won't go to counseling and I'm afraid I can't get through to him anymore. Can you please help?
Sincerely,
Sheila
Dear Sheila:
A car stalling after being driven a short distance can be caused by a variety of faults with the engine. Start by checking that there is no debris in the fuel line. If it is clear, check the vacuum pipes and hoses on the intake manifold and also check all grounding wires. If none of these approaches solves the problem, it could be that the fuel pump itself is faulty, causing low delivery pressure to the carburetor float chamber. I hope this helps.
Walter
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nothing changes as far as the engine running goes. It's just the lights.
But as proper lights function is an inspectable item in Vermont, I need to have them doing what they're supposed to when they're told to do so. lol
I have the battery disconnected right now, so if nothing else, my CEL will be off for a bit and I can get a proper diagnosis on it. [grin]
I *did* notice that the black (ground?) wires INSIDE the hinges are connected with a split pin or some sort. Never seen that before. The insulation is intact....but now thinking about the wires inside. How would I change these? looks like about 16g wire....
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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David,
Check out http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/200-series/ for very good information. It is downloadable and is free.
Andrew
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I got a "site not found" error. :(
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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Just curious; what happens to the other two brake lights when you use the brake pedal? (Assuming you reconnect the battery to find out)
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
It is possible to lead a cow upstairs but not down. Guess they can go one way but not the udder.
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*OTHER* two????
As far as I know, I only have two brake lights.
I'm so confused.
Will take a picture tomorrow morning.
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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I checked with my wife: "How many brake lights does your car have?" Given her answers and amazement after a short demonstration in the driveway, I've been enlightened as to just how trivial these facts are in the scheme of things, and how I should be more clear and direct in describing things which seem second nature to me.
You said in your original post "I was at a local store facing their big front window...and I noticed....when I depressed the brake pedal...my headlights come on (as well as the indicator light on the rear-window defrost."
Then, again "depress the brake pedal and....headlights turn on, parking/marker lights turn on, passenger side brake light on. Driver's side brake light off."
And finally "brand new wiring....still have the same issue. (and this time the lights all stayed on after the key was removed (headlight switch was turned off)."
You should have three brake lamps. One each in the taillight assembly which is the 21-watt filament in a dual-filament bulb shared with the parking lamp 4-watt filament. And one in the tailgate that fell on you. 21-watt.
If the symptoms are the same, then your right side brake lamp comes on when you step on the pedal, but the tailgate lamp and the left side lamp remain dark. That true?
Do you have a trailer hitch?
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
I'm reading a book about anti-gravity. I just can't put it down.
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"You should have three brake lamps. One each in the taillight assembly which is the 21-watt filament in a dual-filament bulb shared with the parking lamp 4-watt filament. And one in the tailgate that fell on you. 21-watt.
If the symptoms are the same, then your right side brake lamp comes on when you step on the pedal, but the tailgate lamp and the left side lamp remain dark. That true?
Do you have a trailer hitch?"
no trailer hitch.
Key in "On" position. Lights switch in "Off" position. Tapped the brake for a moment. All lights in photo came on.
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j43/wolfsdenarmoury/IMG_20161110_1139251.jpg
back of the car (obviously ;) )
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j43/wolfsdenarmoury/IMG_20161110_1139511.jpg
Driver's side parking light (the lens is pretty oxidized, but the light shows up well at night or in a garage)
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j43/wolfsdenarmoury/IMG_20161110_1141321.jpg
Key out of the ignition. Headlights switch turned off.
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j43/wolfsdenarmoury/IMG_20161110_1143091.jpg
I hope this is more clear than my prior description of the issue. very little sleep (grand-daughters are ill) lately and frustration with this car seems to be fogging my mind.
Should have posted photos to begin with. Sorry about that.
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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started to attempt the repair on my liftgate wiring......
First hinge off..........
and the harness came apart in my hand.....
in two pieces.
ugh.
in the *hopefully* unlikely event that the pieces that broke off came from the piece that these harness connect to.....
what would *THAT* part be called? and where would *THAT* connect?
The pieces actually came through the hinge....so I think it's from the passenger side (left?) harness....
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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Thanks Art. Substantially more info than I expected. (of course, you being the guru, I guess I *should* have been expecting a good clear informative response. :D )
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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I agree, Art really knows quite a lot about repairing Volvos.
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1985 Volvo 240 sedan
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Here here!
Yes, I agree Art knows all there is about these Volvos.
He has worked on them from bumper to bumper and top to bottom one way or another.
The only thing thing I think he has not experienced, about a Volvo is getting run over by one but I bet, he has had his share of scraps and cuts to make up for it!
(:-)
Phil
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before I get started on this......and I need to do it soon (no garage...New England winter is rapidly running towards me and my inspection expires on Tuesday)
Are *THESE* the harnesses I need?
Like I said....incredibly limited budget (Social Security sucks. monthly income is less than $700 :'( )
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1990/volvo/240/body_electrical/hatch_wiring_harness.html
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1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon 400,000+ miles
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Poor choice of words for the OP as more accurate would have been "I assume this was not as Volvo intended".
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