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A/C compressor question... 200 1991

uid 33936's pic
posted by  TheBrickTank on  Tue Nov 29 20:47 CST 2016
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 17:54 CST 2014
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Sages,

I know its not the time of year for this type of question, but you do the projects you have in line when time permits.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my front suspension and am taking the opportunity to pull out the entire a/c system so that I can repair and prepare to change it over to R134a.

So my question(s) are these:

1. Where do the compressors leak when they do leak and are they repairable?
2. Is the compressor rebuild-able such that it does not leak any longer?
3. Is it possible to test a compressor out of the car, and if so, how?
4. What kind of noise might a bad/failing compressor make so that you might have an idea to pitch, rebuild, or replace.

I may have more questions, but this is a start and I have nothing but time to figure out how to make all of this work.

Thanks in advance,

Matt








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    A/C compressor question... 200 1991

    posted by  Amarin on  Sat Dec 3 23:11 CST 2016
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    last visit: Thu Oct 23 22:42 CST 2014
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    Initial questions to you:
    1. Do you frequently use the AC? Or at least once/twice per month just to lubricate the system up. If you do this then the only wearing part is the pulley's bearing as it turns whenever engine is on.

    2. What made you think there's a leak? Less cooling now? Low or zero refrigerant pressure? Found oil around compressor? Refrigerant loss could happen thru rubber parts - O rings, hoses - with time. Thats normal.

    3. What compressor do you have now? The one originally came with car? York? Diesel-Kiki? Sanden or Zexel? Specific compressor needs specific repair procedures.


    To answer your questions:
    1. Compressors most commonly leaks around the shaft seal. The shaft seal is located at the spindle deep inside the front assembly of compressor. Specific tools must be used to replace the seal. Watch this video for general idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh-KIjAqh-A

    2. Yes. Thats what happens to used compressors sent for rebuild.
    Watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fZXqLeIkNc

    3. Yes. If its just a simple DIY test then put your thumb on the suction port and turn the clutch assembly (not the pulley) in the direction of engine turning. There should be suction felt and your thumb stuck at the port. That should tell the compressor is still good. For a more complete test it should be done with pressure gauges as in the second video.

    4. For noisy compressor see Sanden's list of compressor noise (generally applicable to other makes too): http://www.sanden.com/objects/Compressor_Noise.pdf

    Hope these helps,
    Amarin.








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      A/C compressor question... 200 1991

      uid 33936's pic
      posted by  TheBrickTank on  Fri Dec 9 04:47 CST 2016
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      last visit: Thu Oct 23 17:54 CST 2014
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      Amarin,

      Responses to you:

      1. I bought the car 4 years ago and the A/C never worked quite right. I did discover a leak under the radiator at the coupling connection. I have no idea what the PO did with it, but looking over the receipts I've noticed that he was always having it looked at as it did not appear to cool enough. Imagine that!

      2. Oil/grease on the compressor and as I mentioned above the leak at the coupling under the radiator.

      3. I have a Diesel-Kiki. Found a repair kit on line. Looking at rebuilding it and then pressure testing it to make sure I have no leaks. Your suggested video's were awesome and very insightful in how to tear and rebuild a compressor.

      Thanks again,

      Matt








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        A/C compressor question... 200 1991

        posted by  Amarin on  Fri Dec 9 22:31 CST 2016
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        last visit: Thu Oct 23 22:42 CST 2014
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        Ok I have read your situation. The oil/grease on compressor and the coupling could be further investigated. DIY method of checking would be using soap bubbles smeared all over those suspect areas but soap bubbles may not work if the system pressure is already low. If your PO had added some UV dye into the refrigerant then the fault could be much easier to trace using UV light (black light). Otherwise I would recommend you to bring the car to the AC shop for them to pump in some refrigerant and use sniffer device to detect leaks.

        Leaks from coupling could be from old O rings which may be easily replaced. If it's a crimped type of coupling then replacement of entire hose is the easier option. For leaks from compressor, the compressor must be dismantled out of car and carefully inspected where the leak is.

        Here is a Valeo manual on compressor repair. May it be of help:
        http://www.valeo-compressors.com/media/brochures/TM08-16_servicemanual.pdf

        The Diesel-Kiki compressor most used in Volvo would be the DKS 15CH model. The Valeo TM15 (found in the manual above) resembles the same model as your Diesel-Kiki.

        If your system has been using R12 Freon then it may be better to continue using that refrigerant if it is still locally available to you. Conversion to R134a refrigerant may need further work of replacing the compressor, all rubber hoses and O rings in your system to be R134a compatible. Otherwise slow leak may develop thru rubber parts over the years.

        Yes you could continue to use your R12 compressor in R134a conversion. But the fine print is R134a system deals with higher pressures and could stress your already old and tired R12 compressor. Eventually you'd need a new compressor.

        Regards,
        Amarin.







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          A/C compressor question... 200 1991

          uid 33936's pic
          posted by  TheBrickTank on  Tue Dec 13 08:30 CST 2016
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          last visit: Thu Oct 23 17:54 CST 2014
          [RELATED]

          Amarin,

          So my plan thus far is to rebuild my compressor. The model is a Diesel-Kiki DKS15BH and I can get all the necessary parts to rebuild.

          I also have a spare that I picked up at the PNP that I can rebuild as well if need be in the event that the original one's internals are ruined.

          Yesterday I actually scored at the PNP a complete R134A A/C system off of a 1993 sedan. It was a score for me as all the metal piping is in pristine condition, where as mine was rusted and I was going to have to do a lot of work to get it back in shape. I pulled everything but the evaporator and compressor. I left the compressor as it is some what different than mine, but I believe the one I had for R12 will work just as well. Though if I'm wrong, I'd like someone to chime in on this now so that I can go an pull it as well.

          I've checked all the piping and it fits my old dryer thread wise. I still need to check the threading on the conversion kit, but at least all my rubber tubing is now R-134A ready, though I think the R12 hoses that were original may have worked as well as I can not discern and difference from them externally as the printing all looks identical, so I might have spares here now as well.

          The main difference that I noted was the condenser. It was way different than my R12 one. Different in that it is thinner from a depth perspective, by about a half an inch.

          My plan for this winter now is to clean up all my piping so that I've de-greased it as best possible, rebuild the compressor or compressor's and then in the spring pull the interior as I have work to do there and pull the evaporator and then clean it out of its old R12 oil. Once this is done, then I'll put the whole thing back in hopefully and draw down a vacuum and then re-charge. Can't wait to have working a/c in the car again.

          Matt








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            A/C compressor question... 200 1991

            posted by  Adirondack Blues on  Wed Dec 14 05:05 CST 2016
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            last visit: Mon Sep 8 12:11 CST 2014
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            I converted an R 12 system in a 1992 to R134a using a volvo kit that used to be available. The R 12 system hadn't worked in years. I simply replaced as many O rings as I could reach and the dryer/accumlator unit. Oh, and the expansion orifice. Charged the system and added the Volvo oil. It worked for 5 years until I took the car off the road.







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