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Hi Davit Sandrosyan,
The good snewz is the engine sounds good. Your mobile has a better microphone pickup than most.
The sound that you had, what I believe, to be a backfire through the induction (air intake) as the engine stalled. When you started the engine, did you have the air intake hose disconnected as you show here?
At the front (North American Driver Side) left of the valve cover, you may have the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) flame trap vacuum hose. The other end of the hose stuffs down a hole atop the air filter box. (Though some as a mod may connect the air filter end of the PCV hose to a vacuum port atop the air intake manifold.) If stuffed down the air filter box, it will interfere with air intake vacuum and give K-Jet a vacuum leak bother and may stall as it does. (At some point, you wanna inspect the PCV sieve, installed at the valve cover. You want it clear so no excess sump pressure builds.
K-jet depends on engine vacuum for the air fuel control unit to work.
Yet it does start and stalls. So you have spark.
You did not answer my questions as to fuel odor. Have a big fire extinguisher on hand, I trust?
The sort of tan fluid at the air inlet port of the air fuel control unit is mostly gasoline? Does not seem like a lot of fuel.
The cold start injector sprays up to the top of the air intake port interior a mist of fuel in the space above the throttle body (TB). So, with repeated start attempts, fuel can collect and drip down through the TB to collect at the bottom of the air fuel control unit and out the air intake port, as your image shows, where the air filter box to air fuel control unit hose connects.
Restore all vacuum line and air hose connections. Disconnect cold start valve wire harness connector, to disable the cold start valve? Will it start?
Have you used starting fluid on it?
Have you been starting the engine it a lot? There may be accumulation from your many start attempts from the cold start injector (valve), yet not able to run and drive, as doing so draws fuel vapor with proper vacuum.
If the Bosch fuel distributor is leaking, one place fuel can escape is at the interface between the fuel metering piston (or plunger) and the bore it moves up (more fuel to injector) and and down (closes off injector to fuel) of the fuel distributor as the round sensor plate open in response to engine vacuum. In extreme miles or damage from user error. Else, leaks external to the air fuel control unit interior can form along the seam between the two halves of the fuel distributor assembly from interior rust, if left to set for years with ethanol gasoline left inside it (without a strong fuel stabilizer mixed in), or neglect or user error (someone tried to take it apart, a no-no as such action ruins the fuel distributor, a very finely machined part). Sort of doubtful that would happen.
Your engine runs and stalls. So, you have use of the fuel injector. Disconnect the lead to the cold start injector. Replace the air hose your show is disconnected in your image. Air filter clean?
You do understand how k-jet constant injection system work? Did you read up on the links at www.k-jet.org I posted I aformention?
http://www.k-jet.org/articles/information/k-jet-in-detail/
The i-net is replete with both Volvo and Bosch manuals in PDF to help you trouble shoot the problem.
Though others here can help you better than I can as I do not have my much missed 1979 245 DL wagon and my 1979 242 GT and my 1975 244 DL and my 1976 242 DL, all with K-jet, with recent I used to perform on them.
Also, take great care when removing the distributor cap and the distibutor cap retainer clips. These clips (the ends that secure to the distributor cap) can tend to sit back down inside the distributor interfering with the hall-effect impulse sensor, that what provide engine position info for timing to the K-jet controlled ignition (if there is another name for it as it is sort of separate from the K-jet fuel and emission control). If those clips set back inside the distributor, and the engine turns, you'll ruin an expensive part. Visual inspection of the impulse sensor reveals the four up right pins on the plate and the down point pins on the electromagnetic pick-up align perfectly as you turn the engine. Connect a vacuum hose with a hand held vacuum to be sure the vacuum controlled advance works or at least has action on the reluctor (? I guess it is called? I forget.)
Were you able to test and drive this car before you bought it?
Do you know when the timing belt was replaced? If under 50k, has nay reset the timing belt tension? (Though the engine starts, so you have spark. A skipped timing belt on the crank or timing gear by one tooth may allow a start, yet would stall or run poorly is spark and fuel deliver works, if even poorly.
Do you have a service manual such as the Bentley or a Haynes (final imprint 1997) manual?
With the air hose off at the bottom of the air fuel control unit, have you been lifting up on the sensor plate? May be hard to hear, yet the K-jet mechanical injectors make a whining-singing sound like a D or E minor key, though at higher volumes. (Makes a nice harmony!)
With your very big fire extinguisher at easy and fast reach, you may want to read up on how you can activate the fuel pump at the pump and let the pumps run for a few minutes as a way of seeing whether you do have fuel leaks.
Sort of throwing stuff in no order at you. Let me know what you think. Someone more knowledgeable than I can help.
Also, you may be able to search this board and use the FAQ to read up on K-jet and the electronic ignition system to help you diagnose the problem.
So, as a list (with fully charged battery & a battery charger may help)
1. Run the pumps. At the fuse box (I dunno the fuse position you jumper now) or the green fuel pump relay (connector, or open the green box, press down on the contact). Run the pumps for some minutes. See if fuel escapes. No fuel should come out the four fuel injectors if the CO adjustment is correct. No fuel should leak out of anywhere.
2. Restore the vacuum hose piping, Ensure no split vacuum lines. Disconnect the wire harness connector to the cold start injector (valve). You have 51 degrees F in Glendale. So, with a reasonably proper air fuel control unit CO adjustment (3 MM allen hex key wrench), the start behavior may be similar than with the cold start injector connected. (You may or may not want to disconnect the 02 sensor.)
3. If still unable to start, you may then want to remove the air hose you show disconnected in your image. If you feel lucky on pulling out an injector with 37-year old high pressure nylon lines (you will want to replace all of these by now at some point, if not already), see if you get fuel injection action at any one or all of the injector, spraying into a large jar. Run the pumps by jumping at the fuse box, at the green fuel pump relay, or remove the green fuel pump relay cover and press down on the contact. Press up slightly on the air flow sensor plate to see fuel indeed ejects from the mechanical fuel injectors.
4. If you verify the four injector to spray fuel, stalling with your foot off the gas pedal may be an improper CO (fuel mix too rich or too lean) adjust or the idle control system is not working.
4. If you get the engine to work, you got a timing light to verify proper distributor timing and vacuum advance action?
5. Again, consider the timing belt, whether it is under 50k miles, and if so, the timing belt tension is reset every oil change or maybe twice-four times yearly. You can remove the timing belt cover easily after removing the crank pulley to AC pulley belt. A bit of a beee-yotch for the un-as yet 240 indoctrinated.
Do we have tools to do this work? Do you have help from the electromechanically minded?
Stick me on C5-A Galaxy out to Glendale. I'll bring my tools. I don't suffer commercial airlines or their planes. Just a simple matter of systemic diagnosis and K-jet and breakerless ignition tuning. We can get it to pass emission of the catalytic converter and the 02 sensor works, and a few other tuning odds and ends. So long as we can visit the Whiskey-a-Go-Go in August 1981 to see The Cure play.
Again, someone with more recent and comprehensive Volvo K-Jet experience may be able to walk through the issue.
This 1979 Volvo 240 will not be a hands-off ownership. You must be able to care for it comprehensively for it's age, prior owner neglect, maintain tuning, and more.
Else, you may need to enlist local Volvo capable shops in your area at up to 150$ hourly:
- https://www.brickboard.com/SHOPS/
- http://www.volvomechanics.com/
- http://www.cartalk.com/mechanics-files
Call around and vett with the BBB and, perhaps, social media opinion. Call the shop and ask for rates and if they are Volvo 240 K-jet capable.
You may want to contact Planetman, aka Eric, a brickboard forum member for guidance, though he deals in older Volvo models, yet may be able to help.
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
Questions?
Hope that helps.
Thanks,
MacDuffy's Tavern.
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