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Misfire 200

84 DL wagon w/367k + Runs really rough when cold. It misfires badly until well and truly warmed up not just after the thermostat opens but until I've put a few miles on it as well. I haven't done any diagnostics so far because I don't know where to start. Any ideas?








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    Misfire 200

    Hi,
    It might be nice to know you put those miles on there or is the car a recent buy.

    Start with getting the ignition system in new shape. New rotor, distribution cap and wires are of first order and check the Spark Plugs deposits to see how they are burning. If one is really odd looking that be helpful to know.
    With cars it's the first things to investigate.

    Off hand past that it might be only running very lean mixture for the cold environment.
    Several things can cause that.
    A FPR- Fuel Pressure Regulator leaking to a ECT- Engine Coolant Sensor unplugged.
    After warmed up how well does it run, like when idling and how is the power?

    Any new and good relationship with anything or anyone usually starts with a nice spark for attraction.

    Ask any Bakery, they know how to make pretty sweet dough.
    As eye appeal is sales appeal!
    If it looks good, you have to pick it up to taste it.

    So raise that hood up and bite! Post back with questions and descriptions.

    Phil










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      Misfire 200

      I bought the car 17 years ago w/210k on it. I pulled the plugs recently and re-gapped them. They looked like the car was running lean and were consistent across the lot. The wires,cap, and rotor are recent additions (Bosch cap and rotor IPD hi-perf wires). Once fully warmed the engine runs fine, it runs smoothly and pulls well but it idles poorly. I have to put it in neutral and feather the pedal.








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        Misfire 200

        I'd suspect the intake manifold gasket. On a cold engine, metal mating surfaces contract, and if you have a failing gasket, air gets sucked into the gap. As the engine heats, the metals expand, closing the gap and the performance picks up.

        Google "find engine vacuum leak" for some diagnostic procedures. Lots of youtube results.








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        Misfire 200

        Hi again,

        Thanks for the post back this is good information. So it runs good and smooth with adequate power when up to normal hot.
        You mentioned it's take awhile to warm up and that could be a lazy or not completely closing thermostat. If you are using anything but a Wahler thermostat this can happen rather regularly. I have found that the other brands are not as reliable for as long as the Wahler. For a few dollars more I have better success. The Wahler put a manufacturing date on theirs. I had one two last so long I took it out out of fear and another after 17 years. It broke open. One of its bracket legs just gave out from fatigue.

        What you are describing now is that it is running lean. If this were a 1989 or newer you would probably be getting an engine trouble light and code for rich/lean mixture, of which, tells you nothing but to go hunting! So with the ' 84 you are not having to deal with that mess of inconvience.

        I need to ask a guestion about when you start the car or more like before this happened. With your foot off the gas, does or did the engine hit and then race upward and settle back down to an idle? I gather it's not doing that now but did it back before this issue started?
        If the IACV does respond like the above example this is the normal operation and the Valve is good.
        Keep this in the back of your mind for a routine pre-drive check off list.

        There are a several ways to get this "lean" condition. I would start with the simplest cause first which is getting excessive air behind the AMM.
        The first place that this can happen, besides rotten vacuum hoses, is in the accordion tube between the AMM and the throttle plate.
        You need to undo the ends and pull it off. Take a bright light bulb and run it up inside and flex the hose to reveal any cracks or splits.
        As the engine moves it can rub spots on the top edges and crack down between the volutes. The hose does stiff and the wiggling first starts out as an occasion dying episode or a case of temporary idle shuffles.

        By checking this item it removes a possible fluctuation of air or mixture imbalance that upsets the computer in how it controls the Idle Air Control Valve.
        You could remove the IACV for a cleaning and testing, if you think, it's not working at this time.
        Check all the hoses connecting to the large hose at the two side ports. The ports can have a circular crack at the base point too.

        You do mention that it does not idle well. This "Could be a hint or clue" that helps me decide to start simple.

        Keep your eyes open for anything odd that I have not mention like a loose clamp or some wiring issues as a good maintenance opportunity. The 1984 has a history of engine wiring harness issues and its doubtful it hasn't already been addressed in some way by now.

        Phil













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          Misfire 200

          I found split hoses where they connect to the idle air control valve. I gummed them up with gasket goop until I can get replacement hoses and the car is happier.







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