After 70k plus,I replaced the water pump today. I suspect the gasket was at fault but opted for a new Hepu from fcpeuro (lifetime warranty !) Installation was pretty much straightforward and the only challenging part ( for me ) was pressing the pump up for a good seal. I did this however using a bottle jack placed under the car and directly beneath the pump. With a couple pieces of two by fours to increase the vertical travel along with another smaller piece on top of the jack shaft I was able to lift the pump and make a good seal before tightening up with the 10mm nuts and bolts. I did not use any sealant at all . I replaced the hoses a few thousand miles back but I did renew the thermostat seal. More info is available under the FAQs. under Cooling.

Chuffsy, Congratulations on a successful WP replacement. I've used HEPU pumps for years with no problems to report. However--it always amazes me the lengths to which some DIYers go to get the upper seal tight. In reality it takes no more force than what you can apply by starting all the bolts except the most bottom one and then placing an 8 or 9 inch phillips screwdriver or other similar round section bar into the bottom screw hole. The bottom most hole is directly below the seal and with the tool inserted and pressure applied upward you first snug all the bolts--then tighten. Remove the lever bar and install the last bolt.
I use the same technique for the B18/20 WP except in that case there are two seals on top and two bolt holes directly below--requiring two levers - lifted at the same time with one hand.
A light bit of grease or vaseline applied to the seal(s) and gasket keep the works from binding. -- Dave

hi sages who are waterpump r and r veterans- havent had to do this job yet on my 92 245 but do know to win a war you have to win key battles which require special knowledge, good intelligence, anticipate what the bad guys will do and of course experience with dirty fighting tricks. that said, the key is the push up connector on top of the pump.also seems like this job can easily go from a 1F to a 3F and risk leaks/do over if this process is not followed(remember the old sticky bomb trick in private ryan?). let me see if i can state this key- to wit- with the new gasket stuck to the flat of the pump and the push up connector greased, push the pump up into the insertion point; hold pump and put in bolts and nuts hand tight. using a philips driver inserted into the center bottom hole, lever up the pump and hold as you tighten the pump bolts and nuts so the center pump hole and block thread are lined up. insert andtighten the center bolt and i think job is finished. only addition i might make is to use swimming pool silicon grease on the push on connector at the top instead of vaseline or grease. this product seems to be more sticky, a better sealer and doesnt degrade with all the subsequent heatings and coolings at that point. did i miss anything ? thanks tons oldduke

Hi oldduke,

You didn't mention about the heater core pipe & pipe rubber gasket.

If you believe this is a battle then I guess you are going to a war. I would like to think of it as bridging between 2 parties. It's love for me.

hi swede bak- good to hear from you. good point about the heater pipe which goes in the back of the pump. think you have to juggle the pump a little and grease that part as you simultaneously push up the pipe on the top of the pump. am i right. all kinds of wars btw swede. worst war ive heard of in 240 repairs is by far and away the blower motor.thats a 10F on a 1-5 scale. havent done that one yet. been told the worst war of all is the war between men and women. apparently youve done the pump job. would you assess it as 1-2 F. now that ive thought of it swede is that o ring and heater pipe a pain in the keaster getting it to seal? would think tightening in the bolts and nuts in the front of the pump would press fit it tight. what think you . thanks tons oldduke

Hi oldduke,

If you ask me. You are anticipating a little too much before your water pump breaks. It's not healthy for you. We are not doing this for a living so there is less pressure than a mechanic. It's not too hard. Just do it when the time comes. Until then, enjoy your ride. I mean well here. :-)

For reference, I would search the water pump replacement under FAQ. It's really well written.

As always, thank you.

thanks swede, i appreciate your advice. will follow same. do enjoy the ride in the 245. may look you up if when the pump craps im a day late and a dollar short. regards oldduke

Hi oldduke,

You're welcome.

Here are some things that I do for preventive maintenance.
1. walk around the car, search for coolant smell.
2. open the hood, look for leaks around the water pump area.
3. listen for early bearing failure.

I shop at FCP Groton. I trust their amazing lifetime replacement policy. For maximum saving, You can buy one of their cheapest water pump and request for a replacement if it breaks.

As always, thank you.

hello again swede- 1 and 2 are good maintenance reminders. 3 is also good but a little tough to hear with the noise of the idling engine. uncle moe showed me how to use an automotive stethescope on the body of the pump while it was running. worked but a little tricky to do. back in the big one when uncle moe worked on busted up shermans he told me he would check waterpumps on their dodge flathead 6s by trying to lift the pump impeller by the fan to detect any movement. and replace if he found any. safer to do it then instead of when the gerry panthers were ambushing you. at least our garages and driveways are safer(from being picked off). thanks oldduke

Great posts gentlemen! For the pipe that goes into the back of the pump I used swimming pool silicone and tightened that first.
I will look at the old pump to see the hole you speak of.
Cheers

thanks chuff- that timing is good advice too. regards oldduke

Thanks VFH
I did not know how much upward force to apply and so now you have given a better idea. I just dreaded having to do over the process should a leak occur after installation with what I would have considered not enough . Thanks again

Thanks VFH
I did not know how much upward force to apply and so now you have given a better idea. I just dreaded having to do over the process should a leak occur after installation with what I would have considered not enough . Thanks again