|
|
|
This started last summer with my '90 240 SW with 352K going for 400. It has a 230F with the LH2.4 system. When I drove slowly over a speed bump in a parking lot the engine died. It would crank but would not fire at first but after cooling off for 15 min. or so, it started normally at I drove home. Checked the obd then and got nothing: 1-1-1. Three more similar incidents happened over the next 4 or five months. Once I was going 35 and ran over some rough pavement and the engine died. I was always able to get it started by immediately turning off the ignition then cranking or when that didn't work, I reset the ECU first. Then about a month ago I had to get it towed home from a grocery store because these methods didn't work. Always got the 1-1-1 code. I put a new in-tank pump and checked both pumps by jumping the yellow/red and red wires at the f/p relay. Both pumps are good (main pump, filter, and relay are 18 mos. old). Fuel pressure checked at 43psi. Drove a couple hundred miles more and it happened again. Nursed it home and swapped IAC valve with a known good one. Thought I fixed it but last week it wouldn't start again at a Home Depot. This time I got a 3-1-1 code (speedo signal missing). What the hell?... Walked home and got my trusty '87 240 sedan and some tools. I always carry a rpm sensor in the '90 so I changed it. The old one had about 60K and I planned to change it anyway. I know the rpm sensor has nothing to do with speedo and I cleared the code. It cranked right up and I drove it home. A couple days ago I was in another parking lot for about 45 min., came out and once again: no start. Tapped on the IAC valve, wiggled connectors: no start. Got the 3-1-1 code again and reset ECU again and it cranked and I got home with a normal operation engine. At this time it sits with 1-1-1 codes for the ECU and EZ. I failed to check the EZ codes before. Can anyone identify with any of this? I'm beginning to think I have a high resistance ground or connector contact and will be checking this next. Thanks, Remy K, Propeller head
|
|
|
|
|
Just throwing out ideas
The best way to find this headache of intermittent no start and stall is to wait for it to totally die. But as a knee jerk thought I would say it dies when hitting bumps. so a loose or bad electrical connection comes to mind.
The two things that may cause such a quick shut down and is an issue on the 200's might be a bad CPS ( but you said you replaced it. Have you looked at the 25 amp fuse on the Drivers Fender? I believe 1990 still had that fuse mounted there. The Fuse Holder gets too hot over the years and it makes for a bad connection.
Did you check the connections at the Main Fuel pump. you say it ran when you jumped it but if it's a bad connection at the pump it may have worked at Test but disconnects when hitting a bump.
Oh, another thought... are all the ignition wires pushed down fully in the Cap and Coil? Sometimes the Rubber hat will ride up the Cap and unplug. In fact as kids we used to mess with friends by lifting a wire off the Cap slighty Can't tell it's off but it would cause the car to run intermittently. Back in the day when you opened the hood from the outside of the car.
Check the Connector on the coil. See if the spade lugs are tight on the + and - of the coil
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
|
|
|
|
|
The plot thickens. I did not drive the old turkey for 2 weeks because of an out of town trip in the wife's limo followed by a bad cold. So yesterday I drove it around the area (staying within walking distance of my house) with my multimeter and and timing light (used on the '87). Wife says for me to stop at a grocery store since I'm out and pick some things. When I came out of the store in about 20 min., engine wouldn't start like the 3 previous incidents. The orange wire at the MAF had bat. voltage. I put the tim. lt. pickup on the coil wire and cranked while I pulled the trigger switch- no spark. Making progress I think. All I did then was to wiggle the 2 spade connectors on the coil which were tight. The coil was replaced after 310K in '012 with a new Bosch and now has 40K. I locked up the car and was headed to a nearby fast food place to drink coffee and wait a while- not enough time had lapsed compared to previous incidents. I got 10 yds. away and turned back just to try once again and it started, but with a lower than normal idle speed and a rich mixture. I had noticed a rich mixture start at other times in the past 6 mos. To back up 2 days- I pulled the plugs to see if there was a story there. I use Bosch quad platinums which I like and these have about 20K on them. Rather than the normal grayish dry insulators and electrodes, all 4 were gummy oil and carbonized. I replaced them with a set of single pole platinums but only had time time start and run for a while in the driveway. I think I am getting a cold spark at best and no spark for a warm start.
I have the green book wiring diagrams and was looking to see what other component might arouse suspicion. The power stage part must be a capacitor that discharges through the primary coil circuit. But could this operate intermittently? I will order one today because it should be changed anyway.
|
|
|
|
|
No, I think your plats were fouled. If you read this, and other Volvo forums, the suggestion to ditch the fancy plugs and stick with NGK copper is ubiquitous. Enough so, I do it without further research. When the plugs are fouled, the timing light won't flash.
That little "get prepared" goody bag I suggested is worth more than a multimeter and a timing light when you're on the road.
"The power stage part must be a capacitor that discharges through the primary coil circuit. But could this operate intermittently? I will order one today because it should be changed anyway."
Some contend it becomes heat sensitive, and thinking about the paste between their computer's heatsink and the CPU, figure the dried-up Wakefield compound is the problem. I'm not on this bandwagon, nor one to believe the power stage itself is a "wear" part. Not so for its terminals and connector, of course, just like every other connector exposed to moisture and heating. Can't hurt to have a spare of the unknown elements in your systems, but for me, this step would be premature.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
“Never underestimate the difficulty of changing false beliefs by facts.” --- Henry Rosovsky
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks Art, Been reading your insights for years. I have all these components and will carry them around now. Will get back with any new findings. PH
|
|
|
|
|
You have a 1990 240. What color is the label on the ECU. The pink 561? is a known trouble part. Had this happen on my 1990 240. Start looking for a white label 951.
|
|
|
|
|
Hi.
What is wrong with the pink label ECU? Can’t it be resoldered / recapped. If it is bad solder joints, then it is worth resoldering with silver solder.
Goatman
|
|
|
|
|
Not sure what happens to them internally. Solder joints? A bad chip, if there are any? Don't think this part can be DIY without expensive test equipment. I do know that on this forum and TB it has been mentioned that the pink label 561 ECU is prone to failure and your best bet replacement is a white label 951.
|
|
|
|
|
Nel, the pink label syndrome doesn't fit this car's symptom. That doesn't in any way mean this individual old ECU doesn't have a problem, but the white labels are our way to identify the hybrid microcircuit is revised to the more reliable version. This is an old discussion, but you'd be surprised how much mythology surrounds this little box of 80's electronics.
The main reason the hybrid was revised was the fuel pump driver transistor, located on it, opened up causing permanent failure to turn the pumps on. Not intermittent. Poof.
The hypotheses for onset of failure I like the most is where the grounds for the system at the fuel rail on the intake manifold have degraded and raised the voltage seen at the computer's negative rail.
The 951s are more plentiful than the white label 561s. But I'd use either in my cars. Fact is, a jumper in the glove box to use on fuse 4-6 will let you run a pink label 561 until it dies.
Post from a decade ago:
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/990665/220/240/260/280/will_561_ecu_work_place_951.html
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Engineering says: "Modifications are underway to correct certain minor difficulties"
Engineers meant: We threw the whole thing out and are starting from scratch.
|
|
|
|
|
Glad to see you back!!!
Long time no read from! Hope all's aces and eights, you, yours, and your Volvo autos!
Happy Sunday!
--
Ignored by: 1 user
|
|
|
|
|
Im pretty sure that the Crank position sensor wire is stripped,,,I used aluminum tape to recoat it on mine till I could get a new one,,
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks for getting back. I did replace the rpm sensor last week as it is known in some publications. This is the crank sensor. Haven't had time to check for wiring issues. PH
|
|
|
|
|
