|
Hi and hello there just a minute!
What year car is this?
M46 manual with an overdrive uses Type F automatic transmission fluid.... an .... M47 five speed stick shift it uses Type F automatic transmission fluid. Where did you get the idea it uses 10w30 engine oil?
I have never owned a M45, of which, has no overdrive unit but I would think it also use Type F fluid. I have never seen a manual for these 200 series cars stating to use regular oil however it does not mean it's not possible that 100 series did use 10w30.
You may have read a publication, a "mixed or cross over manual" along the way that did not stressed the difference very well at the beginning of the 200's early years. The 100's owners would know best.
I think you would be better off using the Type F as it is a very slick and thinner fluid with anti-wear additives or friction modifiers to give it all cling. There is a Lucas product that I use a 20 percent mixture of in all my transmissions. There are no oil pumps in theses manuals. I think it helps in making the box run a wee bit cooler as I don't feel the chrome part of the shift lever get as hot on long drives.
You might try something similar but don't expect a pure fix with it. If the wear is that of what I think it is. The noise is a prelude like that of storm clouds on a horizon.
A whine is a shift above or below the strike pattern on the gear teeth on its addendum or dedendum of pressure angles. Helical gears are usually very quiet in the nature they engage.
A bearing roar is when the bearing finished surfaces are rough and flaking whether it be from lateral or radial pressure. The deepness of a roar is pointing to impeding load carrying failure and can total lock up.
A Driveshafts bearing will "shrill" first as the elements inside are sliding around instead of rolling with a light loading.
The roar is a heads up indicator and can mean some spinning of the races in or on a press fit area.
The noise you are describing is the sound that thrust bearings can make loaded. It seems to be pointing to the second gear thrust or a radial support bearing of that shaft, at the least. When these bearings wear things go awry it's in two directions.
Radial bearings are nowadays made with thrust angles inside. In older days, flat face type thrust bearings were used and they expelled their needles out into gears. Today things are more reliable.
Since you are also hooking up the third gear that shaft may not being held parallel either.
Since there are two different shafts involved, with the two different sounds and pressure directions, I would suspect the input shafts rear bearing to be just as likely culprit as it's front bearing.
All of the gears can connect through use of a possible layshaft. I have never torn down a Volvo transmission per say but they all connect sometime or another, if nothing else but in reverse.
If you blow that gear out you are definitely doing some backwards! (:) pun intended.
Are you having stiffness of applying shifting lever pressure to get in or out of those gear changes?
Are you experiencing the shift lever jumping out of any gear? Especially going down a grade, like a steep long driveway or road and holding the car back?
Usually the lowest ratio gear, gets that privilege first but all become subjects, when these things get worn to be where they should not be.
400,000 miles is not a tremendous amount on these transmissions when compared to many others properly lubricated and driven appropriately over time.
Pulling overloaded camp trailers and doing some "gear snatching" under maximum throttle can reduce any transmissions life span.
Who knows what treatments are given out in these many miles and will have to give in to those variances of that "unknown factor."
One being, in this case, just the type oil or not changing it regularly, is a big start to rolling a transmission, "down hill." Pun intended (:)
A tear down and inspection would provide a nice education for all!
ARE YOU IN?
Phil
|
