Need to replace the entire exhaust system on a 1985 244. Can someone provide an opinion about a DIY job for this? My main concern is getting the downpipe disconnected from the manifold? Any tricks on this part to avoid issues? Would prefer to just bolt everything up with clamps as opposed to having an exhaust shop weld it but I am thinking I might need to take it to a shop either way. Thanks for any help you can offer

exhaust replacement is pretty straight forward with one exception. the connection between the cat and the header pipe is poorly designed and increasingly so one volvo went to the spin flange and donut in the early 90's.

i have taken to resorting to this bit of surgery on all 240 exhaust systems i repair/install and have had zero problems as a result with 100% sealing rate success.

this method is simpler, cheaper, easier to install and effortless to take apart if components needs to be replaced separately.

1. use a reciprocating saw and cut the header pipe end which meets the cat flush so you have clean end. remove as little metal as possible to achieve this

2. do the same on the cat end.

3. you now have two pipe ends with no flares of bump and no flanges. a small gap exists between these 2 pipes.

4. purchase this clamp and install. end of story. no leaks, no rust on the clamp and effortless removal should you need.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/nickson-2.00-band-clamp-e20st/10078731-P?navigationPath=L1*14932%7CL2*14983%7CL3*15314

a stainless steel 2" band clamp

of using this ss clamp is you almost totally eliminate nasty rust in the joint area which inevitably leads to rot and leaks

I have never had an issue removing the down pipe. Soak the nuts in Pb blaster or kroil overnight. Use an impact wrench (low torque setting or electric) or a 1/2" ratchet with a long extension and a good quality 6 point socket. Have extra studs available if you break one (never had it happen yet). Studs are easily removed if broken by variety of methods.

I put the car on 4 ramps when doing exhaust, plenty of room to work. Good luck.

hi blues- very interested to hear how broken down pipe studs are easily removed by a variety of methods. always thought this aspect was a full 5 F clusterf@#$k of a job. its a real home run for a dealer shop $$$. thanks tons oldduke

One method, if something remains to grab, is heat. Not one to be repelled by your 5F tasks, I still do not want to break one of these studs. If I do, it affords an opportunity to flatten the manifold and use up some acetylene if you're into that, and I'm not when the weekend starts running short on time.

A couple years ago I would have echoed Adirondack Blue's first statement - never having broken one. Even omitting the pre-soaking step. But my comeuppance came, rushing along, and braaaap followed by snap, I learned the need to keep some studs on hand. Now I will heed Blue's advice and have more patience.





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Art Benstein near Baltimore

If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular?

A small plumbers torch is a good tool to have.

I have never had an issue removing the down pipe. Soak the nuts in Pb blaster or kroil overnight. Use an impact wrench (low torque setting or electric) or a 1/2" ratchet with a long extension and a good quality 6 point socket. Have extra studs available if you break one (never had it happen yet). Studs are easily removed if broken by variety of methods.

I put the car on 4 ramps when doing exhaust, plenty of room to work. Good luck.

I have never had an issue removing the down pipe. Soak the nuts in Pb blaster or kroil overnight. Use an impact wrench (low torque setting or electric) or a 1/2" ratchet with a long extension and a good quality 6 point socket. Have extra studs available if you break one (never had it happen yet). Studs are easily removed if broken by variety of methods.

I put the car on 4 ramps when doing exhaust, plenty of room to work. Good luck.

I took mine to my local shop with ALL the parts studs nuts etc. 236.00 labor
Parts 375.00. You need a lift and a oxy torch.

Exhaust work is very DIY. It will help if you can lift the car up high enough that you can work under it without having to keep your arms over your head.

Unless you can put it up on a lift, I feel the only safe way to work under a car is to block it up with solid wood blocks/cribbing. Ramps, jack stands, and (god forbid) cement blocks are accidents waiting to happen.

If you are removing the entire old system, a hacksaw (Sawzall !) will be your best friend. No sense fighting with rusty clamps and crimped pipes when it can be easily made into small, easy to remove pieces. It will be much easier to salvage the converter and reach the manifold studs with old the system laying on the driveway.

Bolting up all new parts is a snap.

+1 on the PB Blaster for several days. Half and half acetone and ATF work well too.

Greg

Dave,

My only advise at this time is to SOAK the heck out of the three bolts/nuts at the down pipe / exhaust manifold connection.

I failed to do this last fall and wound up having to pull the exhaust manifold and re-tapping one of the bolt holes as I just could not get that snapped bolt out. UGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Other than that, its pretty straight forward. While you're down there, you might want to consider eliminating that first muffler. I've done it on two of my three 240s and will do it on my third once it needs exhaust work performed.

Good luck!

Matt

Thanks Matt for your post. Appreciate the help.

Are these 3 bolts actually bolts with a head, or just a stud with a nut facing the ground?

It sounds like quite a chore to get them loose either away, but I will try the PB blaster for several days to see if I can crack them loose. Seems like if this part is successful the rest of the assembly should be straightforward enough

I tried to send you an e-mail through the encrypted Brickboard e-mail but it's not working. Wanted to send you some pictures on how to reinforce the new Muffler and pipes to give you longer service.

I have not had to take the Downpipe off a Volvo yet but my other cars and when I help at a friends shop, we go with HEAT. We use oxy-acetylene and get that hardware really hot. They come off easily.
When installing all new. Hang everything before tightening anything.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

The trick to using heat is to get the nut red hot before the stud gets heated--which is why oxy-acetylene works best. Propane type torches take so long to reach that point the stud expands too. If you have doubts about getting the 3 exhaust flange nuts free you might consider bringing the car to a friendly shop and having them get right to it with heat. Then you can drive home to take care of the rest of the job.
I would use the Volvo type clamps. They do a proper job without distorting and creasing the inlets/outlets. I smear red (high temp) silicone on each pipe to pipe connection. It will help seal any tiny seepage--and make it a simple job to realign the pipes should that be necessary (as often happens).
Use Volvo brand flange gaskets.
Be aware that there are two types of front pipe to "cat" connections. The two have to match. One type has flat flanges and gasket and the other a flared pipe with a round section metal sealing ring.
When you raise the car (safely) place the supports under the rear suspension (I find the opening at the bottom of the trailing arm allows a jack stand to be placed directly under the large TA Bushing) putting the rear axle to be in an "on the ground" attitude.
The payoff of doing it yourself is knowing it's done right--and the satisfaction of having done a good job. Have fun :-) Dave

hi dave and matt- youre right this is one of the hidden clusterf!@#ks in car repair. its also a home run for shysters in the shops. same job on slantsix dodges. dealer crumb once tried to send me to the cleaners over just this issue. told him to go to hades and when there do something biologically impossible. taking the manifold off to drill out a snapped bolt is a bear job. did it using a drill and bernzomatic torch to heat that part of the manifold ear. best practice is to first before you bust things is to soak those bolts over a few days in pb blaster, then use the propane torch on the ears which helps a great deal . be careful about starting a fire. have water near by. must have escaped the design engineers from harvard to avoid seating the studs in the ears and just have two holes and thru bolts with nuts, but that might have cost an additional $4 each in assembly line costs. thanks tons oldduke