I just received the clear lens for the reverse light on my 245. However, glue not included, and when I tried to find "glue 1161238" online, the only hit I got said it was no longer available. But it did refer to it as silicone adhesive. Any suggestions on a replacement glue? Or do I just go to the hardware store and look for silicone adhesive?

Thanks.

I've had good luck using "Automotive Goop" adhesive and sealant.
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Best to use a UV-resist adhesive sealant.

Use the RV or Marine versions of Goop as they are UV Resist. The adhesive remains clear and does not deteriorate.

You can get the Goop RV version at Walmart and perhaps your home improvement chain store. Like a 4 oz tube for like under 4$. I've used it, after cleaning and restoring the lens to a clear state, to reseal the plastic 240 headlamp assemblies.

The packaghe looks like this:



Or this:


Company Goop URL:
http://eclecticproducts.com/products/amazing-goop.html

I've also used, after cleaning and scouring the surface with a scrubby or sandpaper, it patch up holes in that accordion-like hose between the AMM / MAF and throttle body. Also great to use to patch up the plastic front door pockets when a passenger, even after telling not to use a foot to hold the door open, puts their foot through the door pocket.

Maybe don't carry passengers or don't lube the hinges?

Hope that helps.

Happy Friday.

Goop Adhesive Sealant MacDuff.

How we keep tail lights together, yet before failing to seal it, and drilling small holes to drain the water:



An oldie yet a goodie:

The Automotive, not UV resistant, good turns yellow, and than opaque.
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hi kitty g- always a great pleasure and lesson to read your messages. have used goop brand adhesives on many applications including autos. but never the rv or marine versions. goop works most of the time to seal and endure heat and weather gone stinko. understand the marine application but what is the rv application indicated on the tube. for your inventory of knowledge: have also found gorilla glue is amazing in adherence strength and durability, if you first dampen the surfaces and clamp and let dry for at least 24 hrs. another old good one recommended by moe from the war is seal all often found only in hardware stores. but you have to work fast with seal all . it tacks and skins very fast when exposed to the air. thanks tons oldduke

Hiya Uncle Old Duke,

Yep, we rear wheel drive Volvo-er's need to stick together!

Glad to help, yet others are better at getting the answer message out without writing a small novel (a novella?). When I win the Oscar for best original screenplay, I'll let you know.

I've read about, and may have a bottle of, yet have not uses Gorilla glue.

I understand it is very strong and see it is UV resistant! So that may be better as the polyurethane adhesive sealant holds at a high (I guess) temperature than does the Goop.

Well, Goop is all sort of the same. It varies by thickness. Some is slightly more runny as there is more solvent while others, I think the Plumbing Goop, is thicker out of the tube. Other than that, it is UV resistant or not.

I used the non-UV resistant on a clear reverse light lens on one of my sedans. Now the glue is sort of brown after several years. They all park outdoors, so they rot faster than those garage-queen 240 and other rear wheel drive Volvos!

Seal All is made by the same company that makes the Goop. Though not UV resist.:
http://eclecticproducts.com/seal-all.html

I'll try to find that unopened bottle of gorilla glue I have, someplace ....

I'll end up somehow glued to something. Ha!

Both you and Calpete are both in FL-state, though on opposite sides of the peninsula!

Happy Sunday! Thank you!

Buttermilk MacDuffed.
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Hi Kitty,

A pretty good primer on the stick-um. I'll add a positive revue for a 2 part epoxy designed for plastic that I recently purchased. Not sure of the brand because the twin tubes are not marked and I no longer have the packaging.

It's white and not as fluid as the regular stuff, but it's working well on some glove box flange repairs.

I, like you, have a collection of tail lights with broken or faded red portions. I could make some of them whole if I knew of a way to dis-bond the lenses. Any ideas ?

How's things in Missery ? Here in Northern Vermont we've had 4 feet of snow in the last week and it's been below zero every night. Still wearing Long Johns and no relief in sight.

regards, Peter

hi maples- couldnt stand that kind of weather anymore . bad enough in nj. thats why moved to fla. too bad most of the sources for 240 lenses and plastics have just about dried up. back in the war you could buy this stuff for 240s easily. regards oldduke

Hiya Uncle Old Duke and Maplebones,

Sure Happy it's Monday!

I've not used the two part epoxy (resin & hardener) for tail lights or for anything in a long time. So long as you clean the mating surfaces, and and rough them up, through the chemical (annealed?) weld that failed where the white reverse lens separates from the tail lamp reflector body is rough, I guess it'd be okay.

I'd like to futz with Oldduke's Gorilla glue as a repair to tail lights. As it is UV-resistant, and I guess clear (I thought it was sort of yellow to brown in color, yet foams a bit as it eats the water, yes?). At least Gorilla Glue, like your two-part epoxy, is not all chemically solvent malodorous for a day as the Goop is.

You can still find 240 in the boneyards. The Row52 affiliated yunkyard here in St. Loogey.

Also, on eBay (ePray?), I find a persistent listing for the red lower, outer lenses for the later 240 sedan wrap-around tail lights, at least when last I looked. I don't see amber turn lenses or the other lenses. Though I do see like white reverse lenses for 200-700-900 that came off in a yunkyard, or are new, on ePray, when last I looked in the prior intervening years.

As for removing a broken lens, that has remnants still secured to the tail lamp reflector body, and I'd not done this in forever, use small tools to remove small sections so you get closer to the recessed groove, of channel, in the tail light, and well, more small tools, pointy ones, to remove and scrap away the broken lens. Though when breaking away pieces of remaining lens, it can be secured such that it it would break off section of the black ABS plastic reflector body. Maybe use something like dental tools to clean the channel. I dunno if a dremel would be controllable enough to do the task. There may be better manual and small power tools, like that used with model building for model railroad, that could prove useful.

I keep looking for tech writer jobs in the Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire. Oooph, I'd enjoy the snow. I have a built-winter coat year round now, that I should shed, as I'd done so before several times! Fun to do a *little* slip and slide in the snow, yet prove Volvo 240 again is good in the snow, even with all-season radials (yet snow wheels in the cargo area, at the ready, with shovel and hoe).

St. Louis is a sheet-hole, utterly. Unless you are one of the haves. In spite of three university diplomas terminating in a master's, I remain one of the have-nots.

As a cure to one of my prior 1980s resident laments of the region with the arches and the Cardinals former football and current baseball teams, at least one can buy St. Louis style pizza in the grocery frozen section Yet best to buy from the Imo's store in downtown at 17th and Delmar streets.

I hold my tongue, as employers with background checkers may find my occasional-times bombastic commentary. I'm sure they do.

Questions?

Hope that helps.

Poor Me MacDuffy's Tavern.
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Thanks for the all the tips guys!

I used kitchen and bath silicon caulk.