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Brake failure light ON - Rebuild kit part numbers - HELP... 200

posted by TheBrickTank on Mon Mar 27 16:34 CST 2017
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 17:54 CST 2014

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All,

My 90' 240 wagon has the dreaded brake failure light on.

I bled the system yesterday to the best of my ability as I broke two nipples off on the drivers side front caliper, so that will need to be repaired first.

The brake failure light is still on and will need to be reset. I know and understand how it works and what needs to be done. What I can't find is where to buy the parts from. Art B. had a post a while back where he calls out the following part numbers:

1330797-2 O-ring,
272702-2 switch kit

The problem I'm having is where to order them from.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Thanks in advance,

Matt

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Brake failure light ON - Rebuild kit part numbers - HELP... 200

posted by james_a_sousa on Sat Apr 1 22:29 CST 2017
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 18:51 CST 2014

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I am under the impression that you have to remove the brake failure switch to reset it as it falls into a hole when it goes on and will not reset itself.

What makes you think that bleeding the brakes will solve the problem with the brakes?

If you have anti-lock brakes, a fault in the system can cause a light. This happened to our '90 744 TI, it wend on about every 10 trips when we hit a certain type of bump, but the light would reset itself when the car was started.

You could check to see if the switch is on by disconnecting it and checking its resistance - if it is zero, the switch is in the ON position.

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Model and Year importance 200

posted by Art Benstein on Sun Apr 2 07:31 CST 2017
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last visit: Fri Oct 17 20:10 CST 2014

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"I am under the impression that you have to remove the brake failure switch to reset it..."

You are not alone. Many posts over the years are based on some assumption one year's or model's design is just like the next. It is easy to think that way, but false, so that's why Jarrod implemented the model/year as a method of categorizing our Volvo knowledge.

The 140 used a brake failure warning switch needing this reset you speak of. The one in the 240 (75-90) uses springs to reposition the shuttle after an unbalance. No falling into holes.

In '91, the pressure differential switch was abandoned for a brake fluid level switch.

When Matt measures that resistance, my bet is he will not find "zero" ohms, but some resistance much higher than that, representing the electrolytic conductivity in the water/brake fluid/rust solution bridging the switch contact and the casting. Unless, of course, he experienced a real failure of one of the circuits, and the shuttle got stuck there because of the gummed up O-rings.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"It's deja vu all over again."

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Model and Year importance 200

posted by TheBrickTank on Sun Apr 2 10:38 CST 2017
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"When Matt measures that resistance, my bet is he will not find "zero" ohms, but some resistance much higher than that, representing the electrolytic conductivity in the water/brake fluid/rust solution bridging the switch contact and the casting. Unless, of course, he experienced a real failure of one of the circuits, and the shuttle got stuck there because of the gummed up O-rings."

So on the one I pulled from the PNP it was fine, however I cleaned it all up just to make sure and that is the one that I put in yesterday.

The original one I pulled from the car yesterday was set to the on position, thus causing the light to light. I first pulled the switch out and found the non-conductive coating part to have moved to one side, thus allowing the switch pin to make contact and thus causing the light to come on, so apparently the PO had suffered a "brake failure" of some sort, but it was never addressed, and I was left to sort it out here.

Thanks to everyone. I've learned a lot here and continue to do so.

Regards,

Matt

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Brake failure light ON - Rebuild kit part numbers - HELP... 200

posted by TheBrickTank on Sun Apr 2 04:43 CST 2017
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 17:54 CST 2014

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I assumed, which is bad in and of itself, that like my 91' after a brake bleed, the light reset itself, which I have found out is indeed the case.

My 90' is not the case, whole different setup.

Yesterday I replaced the valve, which I had R&R'd on the bench. I had to reset the part that move's back and forth from side to side so that the non-conductive part was resting on the pin to the light.

I started the car and all is now well in the world.

No more light on in the cluster after start up.

Matt

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Brake failure light ON - Rebuild kit part numbers - HELP... 200

posted by Art Benstein on Mon Mar 27 17:54 CST 2017
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last visit: Fri Oct 17 20:10 CST 2014

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Tip: When you google leave the check digits off of the part numbers. No one uses them any more.

Example "272702 volvo" or "1330797 volvo"

You really don't need a new switch, but there are some old posts which suggest that is the miracle cure. You could probably just wash the old one out and find your light goes out.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Times are changing.

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Brake failure light ON - Rebuild kit part numbers - HELP... 200

posted by TheBrickTank on Mon Mar 27 18:52 CST 2017
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 17:54 CST 2014

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So on further example of the parts lists, I really do not need the switch, but I do need the rubber sealer around the plastic part to protect the threads from rusting.

I also need the inside O-rings.

Gonna place my order and almost call it a day.

Thanks again Art for being so helpful.

Matt

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Brake failure light ON - Rebuild kit part numbers - HELP... 200

posted by TheBrickTank on Mon Mar 27 18:32 CST 2017
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 17:54 CST 2014

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Art,

You may be correct that I may only have to was mine out, and I may wind up doing just that, though after picking one up at the local PNP today, I'm thinking mine will mot likely need more than just a wash.

Since I'm in there any way, might as well fix what I can as I'm not sure I want to do this job again anytime soon.

Thanks for the tip on googling the part number. Never would have thought to do that.

Regards,

Matt

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