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I will try once more tonight with a small vice grip holding a flat blade screwdriver with a block and lever pushing on the end, but when that fails, what then?
I don't want to remove the downpipe from the exhaust manifold and lower the transmission, but I can probably bite that bullet. if necessary.
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MPergiel, Walker, MI
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posted by
someone claiming to be P of mtl
on
Fri Mar 31 04:56 CST 2017 [ RELATED]
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Hers a simple trick. Re insert the other screw and tighten it. This will take pressure off the difficult screw and make it easier to turn
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Have you tried the 700/900 FAQ? It is well worth looking through - there is a lot of stuff that might relate to your car.
How about an impact driver? - they are handy and not expensive. PB Blaster?
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I used a small .25inch pin punch, about 6 inches long, it barely fit between the solenoid body and the exhaust pipe, and I nicked a ridge into the passenger side of the roundhead slotted screw head, then a tapped it to rotate free with a tack hammer. It was mild steel, so a fresh hardened punch bit into it pretty easily.
I'm replacing them with allen head bolts, so 50 years from now someone else won't have the same problem.
The old solenoid was gummed up in the 3amp-30am switch section, DOA, for the most part. It's soaking in thinner now just to see if it can be resurrected.
Obviously this was the problem all along: not oil level, not voltage, not lockout switch. At least until I install it tonight and prove myself wrong.
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MPergiel, Walker, MI
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From post above, to remove the original flathead screws that may have a damaged slot: "I used a small .25inch pin punch, about 6 inches long, it barely fit between the solenoid body and the exhaust pipe, and I nicked a ridge into the passenger side of the roundhead slotted screw head, then a tapped it with a tack hammer to rotate free. It was mild steel, so a fresh hardened punch bit into it pretty easily."
To reinstall and adjust...
1. Buy a set of ball end hex wrench sockets. Makes everything much easier. The exhaust is in the way. There's no way to futz with the adjustment in the small space remaining.
2. Replace flat head and hex head screws with 10-32x.5" allen-head (socket-head) screws (4-5 required.)
3. FYI You have to remove the return-stop cap to get the nut off the plunger stem.
4. with the solenoid removed, note the depth where the plunger stops. (Note the additional 1-2mm "springy" depth after that, which is to disengage the 30amp high actuating current and use only 3amp holding current)
5. Loosely-mount the solenoid and plunger (without the plunger nut) and set the plunger to stop depth. With the 3/16 drill/pin through the arm, count the threads still showing. Remove the solenoid, so you can grab the plunger with a soft plier, and turn the nylock nut onto the plunger stem until the counted thread depth is nearly covered. A turn loose is better than tight.
6. Remount the solenoid body and check the stop depth again. There should be daylight (barely) between the pinned lever and the nut.
7. Replace the stop cap, leaving a couple full turns of space above the end of the plunger.
8. Safety wire the stop nut to the drain nut. Very fine wire, tricky to find the hole. The flat head of the screw should be about flush-even with the top of the castellated nut. Remember you are screwing into an aluminum thread: do not overtighten.
I did it twice, once super-precise, which turned out to be too tight, and it engaged automatically in 1st, which annoyed and scared me.
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MPergiel, Walker, MI
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Hi Uncle Uniberp and james_a_sousa,
Welp, the Laycock D-Type over drive unit places the hydraulic valve engagement solenoid on the North American Market passenger side.
Yet the later J and P types were located on the driver side.
Also, causing Uniberp's frustration is how the solenoid secures to the D-type over drive unit to the over drive housing. Two machine screws above and below centered. Yet on all the RWD four cylinder engines, you have the exhaust piping sort of getting in the way.
The P and J types secured by screwing into the over drive housing. You'd use a 22 or 24 (? i forget) mm thin open-ended spanner to simply unscrew the thing.
I remember lowering the rear of the engine-transmission assembly with the drive shaft disconnected on the 120 vintage, so long as the engine has rear clearance that it does not bother bulkhead. Yet there may be heater hoses back there. I dunno. Memory is confused. Its been so long. Or it was the front radiator hose. Very little slack to do that. I may be recalling the same repair on 140.
Wants a 120 series so can remember and help Uniberp. Maybe you have to drop the exhaust pipe. Loves the 120-130 series. So beautiful. No other auto appears quite like it.
All the Volvo green manuals I recall made no mention of removal while the transmission was in the auto. How sometimes Volvo factory doc will have these glaring omissions, like some form of a truncated syllogism or enthymeme, for the mechanic to make the conclusion.
I'd hardly imagine the machine screws are in so tight, yet would worry using a long screwdriver, if at the slightest angle, and you butch up the screw head. I think it is a standard slotted machine screw head, yet am not sure.
Found a host of green manuals and other doc for 1800-120-130 series.
http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/Volvo_1800_dokumentation_main_page_en.php
You folks I'm sure have this dialed up in your bookmarks.
Click the "PDF" in the format column. The site author formatted the hyperlinks properly now. I looked earlier today, and then got distracted.
"You been rejected for another tech writer job, you bastard," they told me. Ha!
It was in CO. Was hoping for fresh citradelic IPA pints at the New Belgium Brewery on weekends in Fort Collins. They got same way good ales in CO.
Of course, the Jon Pertwee Dr. Who had that yellow car that looked like a obtuse p1800.
Uniberp, I found a no McPherson strut Volvo 142 for sale on a MO-state craigslist. 1972 for 33000$ or so. Could I show that in your Here's what we find in Michigan. It is on MO, tho. (Ha!)
Had enough St. Louis style pizza. Time to go away for good.
Happy Thursday all day long.
cheers,
Old Buttermilk and Volvo MacDuff.
Cats and (no McPherson) Volvos (those darned Mac phersons!):
Keychain!
Mighty 164!
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert. 
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