'67 220, M41. What type ( size, length, etc.) screw was used to hold down the trim for the shift lever boot ? I'm guessing that it was not #6 1 1/4" drywall screws originally.

Thanks

Greg

Assuming you are referencing the rubber shift boot...

There are no screws holding it down from the factory. It just lays on top of the tunnel with the mat over it.

Well, actually the heater bladder that moves heat to the rear of the car sits on the trans boot, and the mat goes over that. The heater bladder is held in place on the tunnel with tar goop and a single screw in a molded depression that is located towards the rear of the bladder.

Hmm, original might be the wrong word here. #6 drywall screws could be the correct fastener...

Thanks guys

Greg

What does the boot that you are tying to fasten look like?

The factory boot is not intended to be screwed down. It needs "give" to avoid premature tearing.

Remember when three-on-the-tree got converted to four-on-the-floor (reverse is a gear too...) with Hurst shifters ? The boot looks a lot like the rectangular shift boot on those. This one has a chrome trim 'ring' and four screws that holds it to the floor, or the rear heater duct in this case.

Greg

As said, the "Witches Hat" just moulds itself to the tunnel, helped by the thin edges. The rubber mat then shapes itself over the "brim. Best not to use screws but a square sheet of Dynamat or similar can have a hole cut in the centre and placed over the hat to seal it down to the tunnel. This method useful if the rubber mat has been replaced by carpet.
The first time I had the gearbox out of my wagon to do the clutch I found that the boot was held down with duct tape. Fairly neatly done but it was coming adrift in several places. I replaced it with a length of sound proofing felt over the top of the tunnel, two birds with one stone.

The original shift boots are supposed to be tucked into the hole in the floor with the brim located under the car for all the cars with long shift handles including the 140s made until 1972.

All of the 1800, 164 and 1972 and later 140s get shift boots that sit on top of the tunnel.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Yes. I have fitted these with the brim tucked through the hole but it always seems to distort the boot at the point it goes through the hole. If you have the heater trunking, that can stretch and distort it even more. This is also the point where they always split as the boot material is thin here and moves with every gear change. The early grey boots may be more durable but I think the change to the black boot came with the addition of the heater trunking. Are they the same shape as the grey boots, I've not compared the two. If there are any aftermarket black boots, do they have the felt inner lining?

Eric, thanks for clearing that up. When I first got involved with Volvos (544, 122, 140) all the cars I saw, repaired and drove were at least 10 years old. No telling what went on the first decade. -- Dave

I didnt know that either.
For some reason I'm thinking I tried pushing the boot through the tunnel but there wasn't enough boot material to pass through both the tunnel and the rear heat ducts.