Hello! I have just picked out my car from winter storage, and its allready problematic. The car wont start unless i connect the + and - terminals on the starter with a piece of metal. When i turn the key to engage the starter everything goes black, no lights in the dash. And when i do get it running, it runs high during idle. Not sure excactly how high, but way over the normal.
Its automatic by the way, if that has anything to do with it!

Any ideas on what can solve the problems?


Thanks for feedback!

Hi,

I gather from the posts that you have two different problems going on.
One is it's not cranking the engine over with the key and the other is after getting it to start, the idle is too fast.

The first problem seem logical that it's like "Kitty says" and open switch in the starter loop.
There is that wire at the back of the engine, sticking out from the fire wall, that you can use instead of screwdrivers. I like a clip on wire to the battery post as being more refined and sanitary. It's like having shaved before working on the car. (:)
The lights going completely out on the dash worries me. They should flicker down dimly between or on the compression strokes, if the battery is up to "snuff." (?) "Snuff cans" (?), they are small and so can be the charge on an old low amperage output battery. (:-) having good cables are needed too!

Once it's running too much air is getting past the throttle. It takes air to run fast. Its gotta come in from somewhere?
Since this is a used car, with unknown abuses, look for untrained tinkering or things that can get fiddled with easily. Tweaking the throttle stop screw has to be the number one adjustment for a hopeful "cure all!"
The next one to watch for looseness or cracks on the undersides, of any and all, vacuum or intake hoses.
Hope this helps you find a gremlin or two.

Phil

Hi Haakinj,

Welcome to the brickboard. Hope all is wonderful in Norway!

You use a section of insulated wire connected to the battery. And then connect the (I guess) solenoid terminals (and starter) to engage and start the motor?

I guess while you do this, you have the key in the ignition and you have the key turned to ON (where the dash lights are on = the engine is running also after a normal engine start using the ignition key to activate the stater solenoid and starter).

That seems an awfully dangerous thing to do do. Please be very careful. It may be 12 volts DC, yet you have several hundred or more amperes in the battery that, when encountering an electrical short, can result in a rather potent arc discharge or worse.

And when you parked your 1992 Volvo 240 at the start of your winter, was all okay? You had no problems with starting using the key at the ignition and the automatic transmission gear lever is in park.

Your automatic transmission comes equipped with a neutral safety switch. So, you can only start your 1992 Volvo 240 with the transmission gear lever in Park or, I guess, Neutral. Sometimes the switch under the plastic cover can come out of adjustment or fail or rust or have corrosion. I've read removing the cover can be bothersome around your year. I've not investigated these covers or neutral safety switches for years, so I'm not the best to ask.

In the place that you parked your 1992 Volvo 240, would you have animals that may like to chew through wire insulation for breakfast?

I'm replying to bump your four-day old message. I'm certain others will reply with helpful guidance.

Here are some resources to help you.

Volvo Factory Green Manuals as PDF files:
http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/200-series/

Volvo 240 Wiring Diagrams. (Left Hand Drive North American Market)
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=volvo/240%20Wiring%20Diagrams

Should still be helpful. See "Volvo 240 1992.pdf" page 14 / 23.

See the starter motor service socket, though with automatic transmission, a faulty neutral safety switch also prevents operation.

Questions?

Hope that helps.

cheers,

dud.
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