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I just got this lovely beast that came with an old BOSS (remember these)head unit that did not work, and just filled the hole for the radio. I got a new head unit etc but I can't figure out the wiring at all. The car only has two speakers so figuring those wires is easy. The only thing that is left (besides the antenna) is one black wire an one white wire that both feed into the same connector.
I run the volt tester on each one and d not get power from either of them.
Continuity tester shows no breaks in either wire.
All the pillar fuses are fine.
Am is missing something? Is there another fuse somewhere I could be missing?
Is this just dreaded 70's Volvo wiring?
Any help is appreciated.
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Hiya H2oman,
A fine Volvo 240 year: 1979. I had two in prior decades. A 245 and a 242.
The 1976-1979 wiring diagrams in my 1997 final imprint (unless they've published newer editions) Haynes 240 Repair Manual shows shows:
- black wire is +12VDC from fuse #1 (8 AMP, factory).
- The grey, what may appear as white, wire, is negative ground.
Key position #0 is the key, inserted in the ignition, yet not turned.
See Art's animated GIF here!:
The power antennae is also power at the #1 fuse. Insert the ignition key and turn the key to position 1, the accessory position, to deliver power to fuses 1 through 3.
So, you'll need the key in the ignition, turned to position #1, the same position the blower fan will blow when the fan switch is turned on, and the wipers work
Key position #2 turns on the dash lights and is the same as engine run after starting the engine.
You'll also want to look here:
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=volvo/240%20Wiring%20Diagrams
The PDF file:
TP30057-1 1980 240 260 Wiring Diagrams.pdf
PDF Page 5 for the fuse box. Radio and power antenna on fuse #1.
Radio circuit is on PDF pages 125-126.
Yet this 1980 wiring diagram, on PDF pages 125-126 shows the power antennae powered at fuse 8.
This 1980 info may more or less be a match. May be able to find a scanned in or drawn 1979 Volvo 240 / 260 wiring diagram.
Though if the factory radio was replaced with after-market, who knows how a prior owner or stereo installer service altered the factory harness. Or merely overlaid the factory harness with after market wiring for power, ground, power aerial, and speaker out.
A modern car stereo head unit with built in power out will have two channel stereo to front and rear speakers.
You could cut a hole in the rear door through the inner door card vinyl cover and pressed fiber material. You may or may not want to do that.
You do have option, for the somewhat rare Volvo 240 (240 wagon) C-pillar speaker option. Perhaps your 1979 Volvo 245 coms fitted with these. You do not mention.
Volvo 245 factory C-Pillar void (speaker hole?) covers:
Volvo 245 factory C-Pillar speaker-equipped covers:
245 right side, as you sit on the seat.
245 left side, as you sit on the seat.
The factory C-pillar 245 speaker-equipped covers come with a (I guess) Dynaudio speaker. You may be able to fit a quality 3.5" or 4" (? or so) speaker to replace the aged factory pre-mounted speaker.
Though to cut through the vinyl and fiber board of the factory C-pillar cover not fitted with speaker may result in their destruction unless you are well practiced in working with such material and center the speaker mount to fit the C-pillar mount.
The void in the C-pillar is not large, like a front or rear door, so resonance is not great, yet delivers audio depth that may bring more enjoyment as you play your tunes or hands free blue tooth while hands free motoring.
If you can find the C-pillar speaker mounts as I have in my 1990 245 picture here, like on ebay or somewheres, a salvage yard, perhaps, after market speaker is not so hard as you drill out the factory rivets securing the factory speaker.
Questions?
Hope that helps.
Perpetually Itchy MacDuff.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert. 
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Wed Apr 12 19:13 CST 2017 [ RELATED]
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My solution for Wagons that came with only front door speakers.
I'll keep flogging this idea for older Wagon stereo upgrades. I think it is the ideal solution for and only requires a tiny slit in the headliner to accomodate the bolt thread. Rear Speaker mounting.
___________________________________________________________________________
For a wagon an option for rear speakers.
on either side in the rear of the wagon there is a metal post for the rear shoulder belts. Using the top of the post to measure... 5 inches toward the front of the car...under the lip of the headliner is a threaded mounting point for, if I remember correctly, an 8mm thread....I can take a hefty sized bolt
It's there for the Cargo/Dog cage accessory that can be added to the back of the wagon.
In the 2 wagons that I have owned I have used that point to mount 6 inch speakers.
Running the speaker wires from the dash under the front side carpet UP inside the plastic seat belt cover on the door pillars and under the liner.
Neither of these wagons originally had rear speakers and after looking at other options this proved to be the best solution, when I upgraded the stereo.
You of course need speaker enclosures...but with that stout mounting point you can hang a big box.
.
This speaker position caveat... if you regularly have rear seat passengers, you'll have to balance out the Frt/Rear when they are in the car, as the speaker will be pointed at the passengers ears.
The speakers are high and out of the way. I've never had a problem loading the wagon to the gills. This is way better than a rear door mounting, since speakers mounted in the lower rear door would be blocked in a RearSeat folded Down fully packed cargo space position.
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Wed Apr 26 13:12 CST 2017 [ RELATED]
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The tiny rear door version.
https://d2qw5lr9f22uxb.cloudfront.net/7201.jpg
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Thanks Itchy, I appreciate your reply - GREATLY!
I may have to add a picture. The lone power connector I'm left with (pigtailed) may be from the aftermarket I removed.
Also, through other reading, I was left with the impression that 79 was a single year anomaly in terms of wiring, with no other years having the same mapping.
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Keep in mind that a modern head unit will require both switched power for the unit's functions (Fuse 1?) and unswitched - always hot - power (fuse 8?) for the memory and antenna functions.
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Hi H2oman,
You have a like or a profession with water somehow?
The water out of the tap here pulled out of the fetid MO-river changes flavor and clarity as the weather warms. And then you get the chlorine burn they run through the pipe as they pump in chlorine gas into every so often.
The water in Spokane, before chlorination, was really good. Also, the water in Norther Michigan, WI, and MN was also really good, when there in the 1980s. All came from wells, I guess.
Glad to help, though as a +1 to Art's comment, you may have to sort of dig into the dash and verify what wiring does what and connects to where.
You may need to build an ad-hoc wire harness using quality conductor with good insulation to thrive in the under 1979 Volvo 240 dash through the seasons and such.
Also, consider the fuse rating versus what the fuse rating is for the radio power, not just the fuse for the radio clock. Though if you choose an 8 AMP ceramic fuse that turns on with the ignition key in turned to key position 1, and the radio has a 5-AMP or 10-AMP fuse at the back, do you put in an 16 AMP or 25 AMP ceramic fuse in the fuse box. Art would know how to figure that out.
Unless you're using a vintage radio of some sort as Art describes with the push buttons and stuff.
In one 1979, I ran B+ from the inner fender B+ junction box using 12 gauge wire with 100C red insulation. Layered into a loom or into a tough vinyl(?) sheath. I forget now. Put it on a 25-AMP fuse that was sealed against weather near that junction box, and ran and secured it along the wire harness that travels into the bulkhead firewall grommet into the under the dash, and secured to the radio. I also found a rear hat shelf from another 240 coupe or sedan with factory (or dealer?) rear speaker holes, 'cause I suck at carpentry, and further ran that same power to a rear amp to power rear speakers.
Although I trained myself to turn it all off, like verifying all keys in my hand before locking the door (Ha!), I'd drain the battery quite a few times. Probably better to use the ignition key to control radio power, or the ignition key can engage a relay for radio stereo power, maybe? I was too lazy to fix it up that way over three decades ago.
I've kept my stereos I had in my first 1975-1979 240 models. I also have one of the factory-installed Blaupunkt models from a relatives' 1973 164. The one after market was a two channel speaker out Panasonic with tape cassette transport mechanism. Like the old early solid state silver face receiver / amps, they old car radios need restoration.
Glad that helps. Sorry to go on so. Happy Holidays!
An image of that Blaupunkt. Still works.
A funny I found:
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
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Thanks again Itchy. Nothing that interesting, my last name is Waterman.
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Hardly any years have the same mapping. 87-88 are the only two I know that are close. :)
I have the 79 map. There are differences from '80 in the radio detail, but only insofar as the electric antenna is concerned. The '79 antenna was manually operated with an up/down switch, if you even had one, where the '80 got the relay operated antenna motor switched by the radio. There is no connector detail in the manuals, probably because it was too simple. Only switched hot from fuse #1 needed to operate radios from the '70's. Station memory was entirely mechanical. Speakers were front only. Anything fancier was dealer option or aftermarket add-on and not documented in Volvo's service lit.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Real Engineers consider themselves well dressed if their socks match.
Real Engineers buy their spouses a set of matched screwdrivers for their birthday.
Real engineers have a non-technical vocabulary of 800 words.
Real Engineers repair their own cameras, telephones, televisions, watches, and automatic transmissions.
Real Engineers say "It's 70 degrees Fahrenheit, 25 degrees Celsius, and 298 Kelvin" and all you say is "Isn't it a nice day?"
Real Engineers wear badges so they don't forget who they are. Sometimes a note is attached saying "Don't offer me a ride today. I drove my own car".
Real Engineers' politics run towards acquiring a parking space with their name on it and an office with a window.
Real Engineers know the "ABC's of Infrared" from A to B.
Real Engineers know how to take the cover off of their computer, and are not afraid to do it.
Real Engineers' briefcases contain a Phillips screwdriver, a copy of "Quantum Physics", and a half of a peanut butter sandwich.
Real Engineers don't find the above at all funny.
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Art,
Is there any way you can forward me a copy of the 79 mapping? I'm having other electrical issues...
Thanks,
Will
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Hi Will,
At a 125 pages it isn't that simple. You might describe your issue in a post, or be more specific about which parts of the wiring deviate from the 1980 book on line. I have a few of these pages scanned, but not all.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
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Much appreciated Art. I've solved the other electrical problems. Radio remains an enigma. Maybe I can't make a modern head unit work in a 38 year old car...
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Of course it will work.
What make and model of modern head unit do you want to install?
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