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brake rotor and studs on a 122 120-130 1966

posted by  greezy on  Wed Apr 12 17:40 CST 2017
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last visit: Sun Sep 4 21:21 CST 2011
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I plan to install a pair of replacement front rotors that come from Skandix. The seller's info says I should prepare to press in my old hubs and use new wheel studs. Anyone done this? Have any tips? A source for lug bolts? TIA








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    New studs, really? I should get on that. 120-130 1966

    posted by  uniberp on  Thu Apr 13 11:42 CST 2017
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    The rotors have to be pressed off and on. I used the skandix ones and new skandix calipers and they touched. Ignoring senior advice I ground away a tiny bit of the inside of the rotor and they work fine.
    --
    MPergiel, Walker, MI








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      New studs, really? I should get on that. 120-130 1966

      posted by  greezy on  Wed Apr 26 10:10 CST 2017
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      berp, I ground a ton off the mounting bosses on the drivers side caliper. It is a rebuild from Centrex (?) I used my digital micrometer to make the inboard mounting bosses parallel to the outboard (bolthead) ends. Now it is a good fit, and works great. I skipped the new studs.








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        Correction, ground from inside CALIPER 120-130 1966

        posted by  uniberp on  Thu Apr 27 14:34 CST 2017
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        I sad that completely wrong: I ground away a tiny bit of the inside of the CALIPER and they work fine.

        The caliper is cast iron, and I figured the minimum thickness would be more than .125, so I risked it and took off a couple mm deep in the slot where it touched the rotor.

        IMO it is not possible to parallel grind the bosses freehand. It may be close enough to work, but I was not going to mess with mating faces.

        --
        MPergiel, Walker, MI








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          Correction, ground from inside CALIPER 120-130 1966

          posted by  greezy on  Thu Apr 27 15:58 CST 2017
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          Done now, and to my eye the caliper clearances around the rotor do match the clearances on the passenger side brakes. The passenger caliper went on right out of the box okay, with no rubbing, so I am thinking that was a pretty good guide. Is the angle right, as determined by the home-ground bosses? Looks parallel, rotor-to-caliper, again using just my eyeball. The 2 bosses on the caliper are the same to within .002", measured inside (ground) to outside (left alone). And parallel enough that when the micrometer jaw is placed flat against the factory end of a boss, the other jaw shows flat against the ground end. I think overall I have taken it from bad to better. Thanks for the post, it helps.








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            Pad wear will prolly compensate for a minor lack of parallel. 120-130 1966

            posted by  uniberp on  Wed May 3 12:40 CST 2017
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            Pad wear will prolly compensate for a minor lack of parallel.
            --
            MPergiel, Walker, MI








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              Pad wear will prolly compensate for a minor lack of parallel. 120-130 1966

              posted by  derek uk on  Thu May 4 04:54 CST 2017
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              Unlikely, any run-out will give less than smooth braking. I think Volvo quote a max of 4 thou. That is why, when these are reconditioned properly, they are ground parallel AFTER the discs are shrunk onto the hub. There are services that will regrind your discs while on the car but this is hard to do if there is any movement at the interface of the disc and hub.








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                Pad wear will prolly compensate for a minor lack of parallel. 120-130 1966

                posted by  greezy on  Thu May 4 10:19 CST 2017
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                As uniberp says, I was not talking about the rotors being parallel. But since you mention it, the driver's side does have some run-out. I can't feel it in the pedal though, and the front brakes are helping me to stop, rather than massaging the sole of my foot as they did before. I suspect the machine shop did a good job of mounting and grinding the rotors, and then I did a crude job of driving out an old bearing race and installing a new one, and this partly undid their good work. It stops well now. You can feel the brakes gripping rather than skating along. But maybe it would be best to take that rotor in for another grind.







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