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AMM replacement options 200 1988

Before finding an OEM AMM in a junkyard I had looked at aftermarket parts.
Aftermarket replacement AMMs were getting bad reviews for not lasting long.

My 240 is getting on 29 years old now I want to have a new AMM to see if it will resolve mileage issues and otherwise to have a back up so I'm not concerned driving far from home.

Has anyone found good aftermarket manufacturers, or options for replacing AMMs?
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)








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AMM replacement options 200 1988

A while back, several folks here helped me diagnose a very rich running problem on my 83 with LH-jet. The key was the AMM. I ended up getting one from Fuel Injection Corp of Tracy, CA. FIC says it has an 18 month, no mileage limit warranty. Mine was on EBay and I ended up with a terribly good deal - once I sent back the old one as a core for $66 it was a bargain. And I have had no cause for complaint. Not tons of miles yet so that remains to be seen. Also, Larry at Rainbow Auto in Bellingham suggests getting rebuilds from ProGrama who, I think, is in Florida. ProGrama says 3 years on their warranty and nothing about mileage. Just my $0.02.








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AMM replacement options 200 1988

I have no idea why rebuilders such as the two you mention should not be able to produce good products.

Could be, that they do, but we forum dwellers just happen to see the complaints and not the praise. Glad to see the positive reviews in this thread to balance the rest.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"And a step backward, after making a wrong turn, is a step in the right direction." -KV








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AMM replacement options 200 1988

Got an reman from FCP for my 88 6-7 yrs ago now came with a 3 yr warranty and have had no problems at all with it.








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AMM replacement options 200 1988

Bought a spare for LH2.4 from Fcp, rebuilt by injection labs. No issues in 30k miles








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AMM replacement options 200 1988

Looking for use part.

I got this verbally direct from BOSCH.
Original Part:
Bosch - 0 280 212 007

Bosch supplied this on:
240: 09/1980 to 08/1989
740: 09/1984 to 08/1992
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)








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AMM replacement options 200 1988

Hi tbb2,

Using Row52.com, the closest salvage yard that is near Arlington, VA is a

1987 Volvo 740 VIN YV1FX8842H2181902

At the PICK-n-PULL Virginia Beach, VA. Added to the yard May 24, 2017.

Search the www.row52.com wesbite. Enter your zip code and choose Volvo. Click search.

However, in your Washington (withholds innumerable criticisms of the) DC area, you should have a multitude of Volvo-enabled salvage yards found through the i-net and the phone book. Be sure they include a warranty so you can return it as you can test the used AMM / MAF. I dunno the specs.

Though our Art Benstein and others have notes on how to test an AMM / MAF when connected to the wire harness connector. The key must be out and the battery disconnected (I believe) when you swap in and out an AMM. You can use a multimeter set to continuity and Ohms resistance to check for, when unconnected, unpowered, faults. (Use a good digital or analogue multimeter. The cheapie Harbor Freight ones are not good with continuity and resistance checks.)

There is discussion here in other threads and articles about the LH-Jet 2.2 Bosch PN 0 280 212 007 (or 0280212007) as to test, the adjustment screw, and other concerns.

Volvo PN 8251496. Available.
Tasca OPEM Volvo Parts 321$
http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/8251496

iPd and FCP Euro are much more expensive for used and remanufactured. If remanufactured, use a Bosch remanufactured, if they do.

I'll guess you are certain of the current AMM / MAF as failed as you have identified poor fuel economy.

http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm

As for fuel economy, good tuning, and performance in your 1988 Volvo 240, other causes effect fuel economy. Failing or failed 02 sensor, failing engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor, poor grounding between the battery and the engine, between the alternator and the engine, faulty and corroded engine control and power and ground wire harness connectors. Also, the fuel injection rail fuel pressure regulator (FPR) can be faulty, yet not leak. Again, Art Benstein has made mention of this in recent threads.

Check the in-engine bay 25 AMP fuse for corrosion. If not already (though if original, how does it last as your region is brutal to cars) replace the ATC fuse holder with a sealed fuse housing. Fuse box fuse holder corrosion?

A spare, known good AMM / MAF (or three) on and, and on the shelf, as many other write here on this forum, is a great idea.

eBay has about a dozen depending on how you format a search:
Bosch 0 280 212 007
Bosch "0 280 212 007"
Bosch 0280212007

Volvo 240 AMM
Volvo 240 MAF

Also, you do know of the issue with the air box temperature thermostat control that always fails to the hot air only, drawing preheated air at the exhaust manifold. Either replace the thermostat, using OEM is best, or remove the function and the silver accordion-like preheat hose, though be mindful of VA-state emission inspection mandates.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_inspection_in_the_United_States

Does the dash on your 1988 Volvo 240 display an sustained, illuminated CHECK ENGINE indicator?

I found no AMM / MAF for you on the Washington DC craigslist with "All nearby areas" feature checked and chosen.

On the Brickboard ClassAds (Classified Ads) there is this guy in New Jersey state that has a host of parts:
https://www.brickboard.com/CLASSADS/index.htm?id=16851

Frank Ponte's facebook page.
https://www.facebook.com/frank.ponte1

Try to contact him there. (Requires facebook account.)

Also, facebook hosts numerous Volvo 240 pages:

Volvo 240 fan club
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Volvo240Club/

Better and specific .... :
Volvo 240 Cars and Parts For Sale & Wanted
https://www.facebook.com/groups/676640922453172/

Volvo Parts/Cars For Sale/Wanted (All years / models)
https://www.facebook.com/groups/840383939323959/

Though caveat emptor. If you pay with a VISA, or have a VISA-backed PayPal, you can return the defective AMM is that is what you receive.

Also, here:
https://www.ipdusa.com/classifieds.asp?CLC_ID=33

Yet instead of me writing a tome, may I please suggest you review the following in the mighty Volvo 240 (Oooop!) 700-900 FAQ.


Check OBD codes for LH-Jet 2.2, EZK ignition (115 or 117, the non-turbo one):

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm#Bosch22Codes


The OBD is a guide, generally. You make a 12 VDC test LED as described in the link "test diode #5280". I guess a 12 volt test LED? FAQ info link:

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineV6.htm#DesignforanLEDSensortoDiagnosetheV6


Engine Sensors:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSensors.htm

And other related items in the:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/

Though other folks can provide you better guidance than I without writing a book.

Questions?

Hope that helps.

I guess that does it.

Good and Cheap Loose Leaf Earl Grey Tea Seeker
(Withstands Hunny and Milk Well)
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.








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AMM replacement options 200 1988

kittysgreyvolvo,

Thank you.
That gives me some options to look into.

- I've given up with testing AMMs with a multimeter. I am doing something wrong or it is as I have heard that they will test out as good and still not work. The last one I had I swapped out with a salvaged part with immediate results in engine operation.
- It has been a long time since I pulled the in-engine bay 25 AMP fuse. The socket fouled on me in 1997. I cleaned it and wrapped it in aluminum foil.
- I suspect the air box thermostat failure contributed to damage to the old AMM. Nice having a $10 part in front of and protecting a $400 part!! I blocked the thermostat flap closed.
- There is no OBD for my '88.
- I think you and others are right about the oxygen sensor. I never replaced it after running rich and replacing the FPR, throttle body complete with TPS and AMM to get the engine working "normally" again.
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)








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AMM replacement options 200 1988

Buy a parts car and strip it.
--
89 240 wagon, 94 940, 215K, 94 940, 141K








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AMM replacement options 200 1988

I bought my 1988 about 10 years ago and it needed an amm. I bought a rebuilt one from Autozone (I think it was rebuilt by Cardone). I'm not the biggest Az fan, but that amm is still working. I think it was about $135.








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Stick to used if you can... 200 1988

You have the ideal opportunity to search for a used AMM; that is a working car you can test in. I've no personal experience with aftermarket rebuilds beyond years of reading the complaints about them, so it is my strong recommendation to find a cheap used one to keep as a spare.

The replacement could actually address a mileage problem, but that could be nothing more than a chance difference in adjustment. Have you checked your mixture adjustment at the oxygen sensor or using the LED tool? Do that, if you haven't, and do it again with the spare that you find. Keep in mind, the oxygen sensor in your car does have a finite life span, and a real influence on overall MPG when it begins to fail.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"To do is to be." - Descartes
"To be is to do." - Sartre
"Do be do be do." - Sinatra








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Stick to used if you can... 200 1988

hi arty b- hope all goes well with you. as maybe the top sage here i have a question for you. my 92 245 has run well since i began with it in 2011. gets 25 mpg around town and 28-30 over the road. have never touched or replaced the amm. heard that mpg goes to hell when amm goes stinko . for 2 years the check engine light has been on . no change in mpg or driveability. also heard this means the oxygen sensor in the exhaust pipe has probably timed out and gone stinko. you indicated when this goes the mpg can be affected. could you explain this a bit more. thanks tons oldduke








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OldDuke and Dan Pageda 200 1988

Hiya Uncle OldDuke,

Was wondering where you are at. Hope all's aces in FL-state with your and yours and your Volvo 240.

Sort of miss hearing (reading?) from you.

I'll imagine have a full life with better things to do.

Wondering where Dan pageda is also.

Happy Friday!

Thank you,

B.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.








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OldDuke and Dan Pageda 200 1988

hi kitty g- always enjoy intellectualizing with over 240 anomalies. have followed your sage advice a number of times. located in jensen beach se fl. originally from tobacco road in nj which is probably the most car brutal state in the country. most cars there die from salt rust or smashups/totalouts. nj is the most densely populated state in america which probably accounts for that although some have told me it is the notoriously hair trigger temper of the jersey girl. one of them told me whoever said that is a liar and a mof'n mcp. back to another object of our affections the 240 . since the hot season is here in fl i have put my 245 in casual mode since dead ac and mostly use my other car a saturn with working ac until nov.the 245 is more fun to drive and inspires more conversations at coffee shops. just yesterday over a cup of hot joe, young punk said hey pops did you drive that bomb to woodstock? amazes me that both cars get 25mpg in town. both have a 3d floor pedal but the 245 is much heavier and bigger. it runs like a hot p51 knocking down 109s over berlin. never touched the amm, seems to run ok. when it craps and mpg drops to 15 seems from the board will have to hunt a used one in the yards . always like to have an alternative plan b ready to go when plan a fails. kit, what do you plan to do about this and dont tell me to whistle dixie. phat regards and thanks oldduke








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OldDuke not in stinking creek .... ! 200 1988

Hiya Uncle Old Duke,

Happy Sat-Your-Day!

Good to read (hear?) from you. Hope all's aces and eights in Jensen Beach, FL!

I'll bet you get your choice of fresh seafood at the grocery or fish monger? A relative was in the US Army in WWII and was an MP. He wanted to go to the European theater yet ended up in Puerto Rico. Flounder, Snapper, Swordfish and more. I'd go with the relatives to the Murmuring Surf beach cottages in Ft Walton / Destin on the panhandle. Jack Terry and wife owned these. In the 1970 and early 80s. He could only grill out so long as he was standing on sand or gravel and had a can of nearly frozen beer. He'd let me also have a beer even though under age. He told me he'd not 'run me in' like he had to with GIs back in the war. Maybe the same war as your Uncle Moe saw action in the European theater? WWII.

Well, thank you. I do not consider myself a sage, more of a garlic, perhaps an onion, cut with a dull knife, on other-days. Maybe a shallot when I'm at my better. Though glad to help you and the other folks always.

Do you ever read any of the books by Hunter S. Thompson? The way you write reminds me of him. Fear and Loathing on the '72 Campaign Trail is my fave of his offerings. Still holds today, no matter who wins the potus. Yet the trail to Las Vegas leads them through bat country. A place to leave, like Tobacco Road in NJ?

Is it hot, then, in Jensen Beach, Florida? I'd imagine you get the cooling ocean breezes making your 1992 Volvo 240 Wagon not enjoyable to motor throughout the year. Yeah, the A/C is out in all three of mine. The 1992 has the R-134A factory set-up, yet does not work. I've not tested it to see if it could work. For a few minutes in some A/C to dry out the offensive humidity here in arches and baseball cardinals city, and then to be outdoors. I'd hoped to pull the dash, solvent soap clean the condenser and evaporator coils, have new barrier hoses fabricated on the same connectors, get a new compressor, drier, and the orifice valve, and put the thing together, along with a new HVAC blower, really clean up the wiper system bits, clean the fresh air intake cowl. Yet without a garage ....

Not been to NJ. Well, I'd been to Atlantic City on the PA-state side like 14 years ago. I like the Atlantic ocean.

Some punk kid calls you "Pops"? How rude. Yeah, I'd been called a communist 'cause I drive a communist car' said a few people in the last twenty years. More often the older they appear. My reply wants to be complex, geopolitical and all, so, I say, no, they're well made and I'd rather not by some made in China GM, Ford, or Chrysler. Well, ooop!

So, the mileage in your 1993 Volvo 245 drops to 15 miles to the gallon you say? At times? Or do you mean when that happens?

Well, the consensus when reading Art's and other folks' reply is that used is better than new. Do you know whether you have the LH-Jetronic 2.4 or the 3.1 injection on your 1993 VOlvo 245? 'Cause it is getting nearly impossible to get used, and new are no longer made.

In your question to Art B. you make mention of an AMM / MAF strategy. Art already says sticking to used if you can. That's what I'd done on both the LH-Jetronic 2.4 1990 245 and the kittys grey 1991 244. I have spare AMMs, yet have not tested them all. Some test out, with a multimeter, per Art's and other folks (and sites) instructions. Though these two Harbor Freight multimeters are not quite right. The Radio Shack DMM I have does okay.

Yet you also say the CHECK ENGINE light is on. I'm unsure. You said you checked the OBD codes for a faulty oxygen sensor code in socket 2. If you have a good multimeter, you can test the 02 sensor at the connector in the engine bay. It really helps to have a known good oxygen sensor. The FAQ mentions Bosch oxygen sensors that are like $40 as an exact fit, meant for Ford Mustang or something, yet the lead wire harness is like an extra 1 foot longer. So, not as expensive as the Bosch oxygen sensor for our model 240.

As for the AMM, like I'd read and written here, and I may be repeating myself, is that preheater air system. The silver hose between the exhaust manifold heat shield that angles around and under the water pump fan cowl, and secures to the air filter box air intake at the bottom of the air filter box. I'd imaged you'd read about that. Yet the flappy valve, the thermostatically-controlled flap valve inside the air filter box, shall fail to the hot air inlet only, eventually, if not already.

Some people with merely disconnect that silver accordion hose where is secures to the exhaust manifold heat shield. Well, if the air filter box flappy valve is stuck to hot, the air in the engine inhales comes through that hose, about exclusively. And it is hot around that heat shield area.

Also, that silver accordion hose end flapping around like that can make for the end of the hose to deteriorate. Someone here stated that their alternator may have sucked up a piece of metal from that hose, and it took out there alternator. That may have happened to me, also. I did not tear down to inspect that alternator. I keep it as a core exchange on a real Bosch reman, id they are any good, still.

If I'm repeating myself to you, I seem to recall, yet I also follow the facebook "Volvo 240 fan club" page or group. And repeat the same thing for the problems folks post on there with their Volvo 240 or other rear wheel drive model, yet always mention the brickboard. They have a bunch of folks that make replies like 'crush it' cause the wipers don't work. So, I always mention that they come here to research and post the RWD link in the thread there.

So, you may want to look at that - the air intake preheat function on your 1993 Volvo 245. You have to drop the belly pan to get at it under the car or remove the water pump fan and fan cowl to get at the preheater air hose to remove it. You may want to remove the preheat flap valve assembly from inside the air filter box.

Though if you have mice or rats, or other nesting vermin, they may get into the open lower air box air inlet.

You can test your AMM / MAF with a multimeter. Though I'd test the CHECK ENGINE cause and fix it. I recall it being your oxygen sensor? Am I repeating myself? Have you checked the OBD codes in sockets 2 (fuel) and 6 (ignition) for fault codes?

You can troll the salvage yards for a spare AMM / MAF. I guess nearest big city to you is Jacksonville, FL? So, you may want to call around and see if they have rear wheel drive Volvos, includes 700s and 900s with four cylinder engines, if you have the Bosch LH-Jetronic 2.4 fuel injection.

If you have the LH-Jetronic 3.1, finding a used replacement is very difficult.

Do you know which fuel injection you have? A 1993 with three pedals may have both.

Also, as for fuel economy, I've found, using the highway mileage markers, that the odometers, in-spite of correct tire size, rack up miles faster than is actual. My 1991 240 does this, yet the speedo is slow. At 30 MPH, I'd need the speedo to show 33-35 MPH. At 70 MPH, I have to show 75-77, maybe a little more, on the speedo.

No whistling dixie. Sorry to go on at such length.

How is your Saturn, also with three pedals? It also works well and does not cause you any bother?

Does that help you? Please lemme know.

Happy Sat-Your-Day, Uncle Old Duke!!!!
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.








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OldDuke not in stinking creek .... ! 200 1988

hi kit g- my 245 is a92 not a 93. surmise the two are very similar. btw stinking creek was a town i used to go through in md on the way to fla from nj. the 245 runs well at 249k after 6 years. ac never worked mostly use the saturn in the summer mos. had the ac fixed in that last year and itis good. its a fair car not great. has two items i dont like, clutch is actuated by internal hydraulic slave cylinder in the transaxle and is a major job to change when it leaks. also has an interference engine . only 160k on that one. replaced the timing chain once. luckily that lasts longer than the rubber belt. volvo is a non interference engine. engine wrecks if it is interference and the timing belt breaks. many cars go to the junk yard when that happens. really should get the ac fixed in the 245 but only need it for 4 mos here. 240 owner here and on the board have commented the ac is weak in the volvo and you go to clip city to get it rebuilt. 245 has always gotten 25- 29 mpg during my ownership. figure when that stops its the amm or the oxygen blaster. havent checked the obd yet for check engine lightalthough most tell me that is whats triggering the light due to a timer sensor in the computer. forgot how to use the obd. . nearest big city is west palm beach about 45 miles from jensen. young punk asked me if i drove it to woodstock in 69 . drove my junk 62 chevy to it . funny as hell how people today (mostly young bucks)glorify that event as an icon. it was not a pleasant experience, dirty, hot as hell, raining all the time. actually it was in bethel, woodstock is the next town. did read a book by hunter s thompson . think it was fear and loathing in las vegas. he was a trip, actually funny as hell. only worries on the 245 are the amm, blower motor and mysterious water leaks during a monsoon. moe was a tank mechanic at omaha beach. his claim to fame was welding teeth onto the shermans so they could bust through the bogage in the breakout run to germany in 44. he always liked that volvo that looked like a 40 ford. had 2 of them- had nifty 4 speed stickshifts and an ohv 4 cyl. take care my friend. regards oldduke








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obd diagnostics .... 200 1992

Hiya Uncle Old Duke,

Thank you.

Easy as ordering a coffee cup of your fave coffee and adornments at your fave cafe without some youthful hubris calling you pops and asking when's and where's to the Woodstock.

Fuel Injection and Ignition Diagnostic Procedures in LH-Jetronic 2.4+, Regina, and EZK 116/REX 1

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

In your engine bay on the aft side of the driver side (car left side) strut tower


Pull the cap off, that is attached to the tester body, pull the probe out, let the cap dangle.

Socket 2 is fuel injection and emissions. You have either LH-Jetronic 2.4 / 3.1

In Table 1: Bosch LH2.4 and Motronic 1.8 Fuel Injection Fault Codes, mind the three left-most columns with the LH 2.4 in them.

And then for socket 6, is the ignition control and emissions. And you use the Table 2: EZK 116.

The instructions are in the subsection titled: 1. Diagnostic Test Mode 1: Fault Code Retrieval.

That should help you.

A new oxygen sensor and a working AMM, and when both are working together, really breathe some (relative) zip into the throttle response while improving on fuel economy.

Though I wish I had my old Simpson analogue multimeter (used they are 120$ and more), the 30+ year old Radio Shack multimeter still does okay.

Watch out for those Harbor Freight multimeter to test the oxygen sensor, wire harness continuity or sensor resistance through the wire harness. You get misleading results.

If I cannot get a garage soon, I'll probably see these 240s I have and the boxes and boxes of odd parts, I had a garage up through end of August 2013 and did a lot of work until then. Yet since I was working in a factory, what the white-collar people call "the floor," writing manufacturing assembly "work" instructions with nuts, bolts, errors in electrical design (the flange screws the components engineer specified exceed max ingress as stamps on the motor housing, of the sheet metal does not fit together, yet it seems to in SolidWorks CAD), I'd get a little tired of doing the much needed work on the Volvos 240.

And now we continue the search for a job, ongoing, since late 1993.

Hope that helps.

Thanks.

MacDuffed.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.








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obd diagnostics .... 200 1992

hi kit g- thanks for that diagram and instructions on the obd . dont you have to count the beeps or flashes from somewhere to get a defect code when you do it though? what is that knob for on the left top of the obd box which your arrow points to? best joe on the road i usually get is the regular brew at dunkin donuts. also at jersey style diners- only a few in fla, unlike every corner in nj. used to be a workaholic, jobs and working on mechanicals. now have become lazy as hell, but still can work like hell when it strikes me .








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obd diagnostics .... 200 1992

The knob that the arrow points to is a button.

You hold it down for greater than 1 sec, but less than 3 and then release.

The LED will then flash out a code, if there are any. If there are no codes, then it will flash out a 1-1-1.

Check the FAQ for more information on this procedure.

Matt








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obd diagnostics .... 200 1992

hi tank- what code indicates the oxygen sensor is stinko or has timed out. by led do you mean a light on the cluster will flash(the constantly lit cel ?)? thanks tons oldduke








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obd diagnostics .... 200 1992

Hiya Uncle OldDuke,

Happy Friday. Sorry for the tardy reply. Sort of need to parse the brickboard a bit for myself on occasion.

I make mention in my reply to you:

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1645598/220/240/260/280/obd_diagnostics.html





So oxygen sensor-related socket 2 fault code numbers are:
2-2-1*
2-2-3
2-3-1*
2-3-2*

May indicate a faulty oxygen sensor, yet more so bad tune.

Fault code:
2-1-2*
Indicates faulty 02 sensor or faulty wiring.

So, best with a cold engine, and key in and on so the dash lights are on, yet do not start the engine.

Lift up the OBD diagnostic test box cap (or cover), the probe secures to the cap, so gently tug the tester out of the cap. Let the cap dangle as there is a section of plastic leash so you do not lose the OBD cap.

Insert the probe into:
Socket 2 for fuel injection computer fault codes.
Socket 6 for ignition control computer fault code.

The numbers are printed in white next to the socket. Example image with the cap (or cover) remove and left aside.



Insert the probe. Press the button for 1/2 to 1 second (no less, no more).

The red LED light blinks at you. Sort of a slow motion rythym in counting out code.

So, like faulty code socket 2 fault code 2-1-2 (faulty o2 sensor, or wiring) appears as:

(blink-blink) rest of about a second (blink) rest of about a second (blink-blink)



You count the blinks

You write down the fault code as 2-1-2 (or 212 or what have you)

Between each three number code counted in blinks is a rest of about 1.5 seconds.

Other stored fault codes, if present, display likewise.

It is best to press the tester button again to be sure all fault codes have counted out.

Repeat the procedure for the other socket and insert the probe into:
Socket 2 for fuel injection computer fault codes.
Socket 6 for ignition control computer fault code.

The ignition control computer counts blinks out a little faster.

So, from the FAQ is a paired down table of the Bosch LH-Jetronic 2.4 (and we could say 3.1) fuel injection control computer. Same table as in the OBD topic 700-900 faq with the Motronic 1.8 info columns removed.

Bosch LH2.4 Fuel Injection Fault Codes (* denotes Check Engine lamp goes on). Read these from socket 2.


I have no idea why all this white space appears here. If it does. After a dozen edits. Lest the CSS files ....
















































































































































































Fault Codes LH 2.4 Fault Condition LH 2.4 Causes of Fault LH 2.4 Symptoms
1-1-1 No faults N/a N/a
1-1-2 Fault in FI control unit FI module fault None
1-1-3* Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or rich Mixture incorrect; O2S wiring fault High fuel consumption
1-1-5 Not applicable NA NA
1-2-1* Faulty signal to/from Air Mass Meter Wiring fault to or in AMM Various driving problems; fuel consumption
1-2-3* Signal missing to/from coolant temp. sensor Wiring fault to or in ECT sensor;grounds corroded on intake manifold or engine Difficult to start engine when cold
1-3-1 Ignition system RPM signal missing on starting Wiring fault or RPM sensor bad Engine will not start
1-3-2 Battery voltage too low/high Poor battery or charging system No faults evident
1-3-3 Throttle switch idle setting faulty or grounding fault TPS failure or maladjusted Above-normal idle speed
1-4-3 Not applicable NA NA
2-1-2* Signal missing/faulty from oxygen sensor Wiring fault to heated O2S sensor High fuel consumption, driving problems
2-1-3 Throttle switch full load setting faulty or grounding short Wiring fault to TPS or TPS failure No faults evident
2-1-4 Not applicable NA NA
2-2-1* Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean at part load Lean; air leak; low fuel pressure; bad AMM Engine stops when starting from cold; high fuel use
2-2-3 Signal missing to/from idle air control valve Circuit fault to IAC or faulty IAC valve Engine difficult to start; low idle speed
2-3-1* Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or too rich at part load }If too lean: air leaks, low fuel pressure, bad sensor }Engine stops when starting from cold; high fuel use or
2-3-2* Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or too rich at idle }If too rich: high fuel press., leaking injector } various driving problems
2-3-3 Not applicable NA NA
2-4-1 Not applicable NA NA
2-4-3 Not applicable NA NA
3-1-1 Signal missing from speedometer Speedo wiring or instrument cluster wiring faulty Idling problems
3-1-2 Signal missing for knock-related fuel enrichment Wiring break between EZK terminal 4 and FI #28 No faults evident
3-1-4 Not applicable NA NA
3-2-1 Cold-start injector signal shorted or missing Wiring break to cold-start injector or fault in injector Cold-start problems
3-2-2 Air Mass Meter wire burn-off signal absent or faulty Wiring break between FI terminal 8 and AMM #4 Various driving problems due to dirty AMM wire
3-4-4 EGR temperature signal absent or faulty Wiring break or fault in sensor B 204 FT/GT engines only
4-1-3 Not applicable NA NA
4-3-3 Not applicable NA NA


EZK 116 Ignition Fault Codes (* denotes Check Engine lamp goes on)

Read these from socket 6: 

I have no idea why all this white space appears here. If it does. After a dozen edits. Lest the CSS files ....




































































Fault Codes Fault Condition Causes of Fault Symptoms
1-1-1 No fault detected N/a N/a
1-4-2* Control module fault EZK ignition control module faulty Engine runs in limp-home mode
1-4-3* Knock sensor signal absent or faulty Faulty wiring to/from/in the knock sensor Poor acceleration, low power, high fuel cons.
1-4-4* No load signal from fuel injection system Bad fuel injection relay; faulty wiring from LH to EZK; bad LH module  Engine lacks power; stalls; doesn't start or is jerky
1-5-4* EGR system flow too high Faulty EGR valve or controller, wiring; engine thermostat Engine idles unevenly
2-1-4 RPM sensor signal absent intermittently Faulty RPM sensor, wiring or incorrect installation Engine will not start; runs rough; overheats
2-2-4 Engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor signal absent or faulty Faulty wiring or ECT sensor No fault symptoms evident
2-3-4 Throttle Position Switch (TPS) idle signal faulty Faulty wiring or TPS; TPS adjusted incorrectly Poor hot starting; poor idling; limp-home operation
2-4-1* EGR system flow too low  Faulty wiring, EGR, EGR vacuum or controller; EGR temp sensor Poor idling
4-1-3* EGR temperature sensor signal faulty or absent Faulty EGR temp sensor or wiring No fault symptoms evident



This info is here in the FAQ:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

When done you restore the probe into it's resting place in the OBD tester cap, and then secure the cap back on the OBD tester box.

The Bentley 240 manual perhaps treats about best after the green manuals we can't get to as k-jet.org has gone and I never saved the info.

The Haynes 240 manual also treats it, yet misses a few codes.

Does that help, I hope? Lettuce know.



Welp, got that job in Minden, NV at GE. Ha-ha-ha. No I did not. Why would I?

Welp, Happy Friday.

Non-plussing Week MacDuffed.

(with dreams of defecting to a civilized nation like Norway. Damn, Finland still taxes the heck out of you.)
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.








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obd diagnostics .... 200 1992

hi tank- what code indicates the oxygen sensor is stinko or has timed out. by led do you mean a light on the cluster will flash(the constantly lit cel ?)? thanks tons oldduke








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AMM replacement options 200 1988

fwiw
I replaced my AMM with a rebuilt. I have an 87, with the same spec as your 88.

However, I did that in 1997, and bought it from a now closed Volvo parts outlet - RPR. Unfortunately as this is a limited edition part...the life of the LH 2.2 series. Since you don't need it now to get the car to run, you may want to spend some time on the Net to cross reference other than Volvos that used this system.

PS...what I have found recently due to the War on Fake NUZ, is that GOOGLE now always shows Volvo first...Try DuckDuckGo .... https://duckduckgo.com/?q=&t=ffsb As the search engine.


My symptoms were it would start, then stall stall stall, until it got to almost normal Operating Temps. The air filter box had a stuck thermostat so only Hot Air.

Mileage is not a general symptom of a bad AMM.

Check the AirBox flap...or remove the tube that hooks into the stove off the exhaust manifold. That Pre-Heater is not needed unless you live in a Sub Zero location. Lose Heater as without a functioning Termostat in the AirFilter Box, the Heat will Fry your AMM.








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AMM replacement options 200 1988

PS
if you really want to have a spare, you may want to email these guys in Atlanta.

http://www.voluparts.com/








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AMM replacement options 200 1988

stick to bosch oem from the junkyard.
they work or they don't. if you get a bad one in the junkyard they take it back.

your call

in my experience aftermarket are never as good as bosch oem







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