I am in the middle of an engine swap for my 1981 Volvo 264. I got the b230ft in and running mated to the m46 tranny but found that the clutch did not disengage. This was because I installed it backwards. I pulled the tranny out from under and fixed the issue but I found that I cannot install the tranny back in because the engine won't angle down far enough to get the receiving shaft past the clutch fingers. Either I'm installing the tranny wrong or the engine needs to tilt down more. When taking the tranny out, the weight of the tranny helped tilt the flywheel side down to get the tranny to pass the tunnel. I tried loosening the engine mounts to no avail. I could not find a picture to help describe this but if there is any confusion, just ask.

Hi,

Installing the transmission requires that the transmission be rotated up and into position. Unless you are fit, you will find it impossible by hand without a helper. The rotation makes installation difficult (nearly impossible) with a jack.


Goatman

I've done this twice. The hardest part I find is getting the transmission up onto my chest. Once I get it there, pressing it into place is not that bad.

Matt

Update. What I did to allow more room in the trans tunnel was to jack the very front of the engine up with an engine hoist and some chain. This made the engine pivot on the mounts. Be careful when you are attempting this because at a certain point, the engine won't tilt any more and you will begin to lift the car. Getting it right before that point makes installation very easy. I used only a floor jack and some wood and got the transmission support bracket on the jack. This let's the trans move freely because it now is only supported by the rubber mount. This makes it easier to maneuver. I hope this information helps and if anyone needs further detail, just reply and I will try to help. Good luck!

When the transmission support bracket is removed and the transmission allowed to sag down, the rear of the engine should rest against the firewall or very close to it.

That should give you ample of angle to remove and install the transmission.

Make sure that you've dropped the drive shaft and removed the exhaust down pipe and cat as this will make the install much easier.

Also, when installing the transmission, make sure that the starter is NOT in the starter hole. This hole needs to be vacant as it will interfere with the install if it isn't. Ask me how I know!

When installing, you need to make sure that the recess in the transmission bell housing for the starter is almost facing down and then you rotate it up as you install the transmission. This allows you to get the transmission in the tunnel, otherwise, you will be spinning your wheels all day long. Again, ask me how I know, but that was with an automatic. What a horrible day that was.

That should about do it.

Let us know how you make out.

Matt

Can you explain what you mean when you say to hold down the brackets so they will shift with the motor?

"Can you explain what you mean when you say to hold down the brackets so they will shift with the motor?"
With the two brackets bolted to the upper radiator support that extend back to hold the radiator in place once removed allow the radiator to lift with the front of the motor--thereby relieving any stress on the coolant hoses and the danger of a fan blade damaging the radiator itself and/or jamming against the fan shroud. -- Dave

You should be able to raise the motor at the front to get more tilt. Remove the radiator hold down brackets so it will shift with the motor. If you are doing this on the ground use a floor jack and length of 2x4 - or on a lift a pole jack placed under the front pulley. -- Dave