My clutch pedal has always (3 years) been a little rough and recently it started leaking a bit.
On inspection the clutch actuating rod comes out of the slave cylinder at an angle.
I don't see any way to remedy the situation other than elongate the bolt holes so it can rotate up.
Is this an accepted practice? Or did I just get an improperly made slave cylinder?
Or could it be a bent clutch fork? (unlikely, it doesn't look bent)
Thanks,
-TR

the clutch fork looks off center. check up and down play.

It does appear off center. Is there some way to adjust it?

TR;

There is no provision for adjustment of Throwout Fork. Location and position are strictly determined by 1. Ball Pivot on opposite side of Bellhousing, and 2. Throwout Bearing (which is centered on Transmission Input Shaft)...some wear and slop will develop, but not all that may be evident in the picture...the misposition of the Actuating Rod seems to be due to a mispositioning of the Slave Cylinder itself, and that goes back to the slop between mounting holes and bolts. Don't forget...force of that Return Spring will tend to rotate the Sl Cyl Housing to take up all the slop, but this makes the misalignment the worst it can be...that's why I recommend turning it to straighten the alignment, as you bring Bolts to final torque.

Note: O'Ringed Piston with NOT fix this, but will prevent scoring which causes leaks and these are made worse as a result of misalignment.

Good Hunting!

cable clutch has ball pivot far side of bell housing. hydraulic, the slave moves to the rear,the fulcrum is between slave and throwout, which moves forward. the fork is low in the square. look in bellhousing with flashlight.

Al;

...you have it right of course...I was thinking about the Cable Throwout Fork...all else I said was correct and I stand by it.

Cheers

different angles for one problem. throw the linguine at the wall and see what sticks. that 122 is cleaner under than mine on top.

I think this is a known problem with this set-up. Haven't done one for a while but I don't think the bolts are a particularly tight fit in the slave cylinder holes. You might be able to swivel it closer to square and retighten. Serrated lock washers might help. With it cocked a degree or two, the natural action of the rod will want to swivel it, and over time it's likely to revert back to where yours is now. I think I would only oval the front hole if I was going down that route. This might interest you.

http://www.sw-em.com/clutch_slave_o-ring_analysis.htm

TR;

Derek beat me to it, but that looseness in the mounting holes is what I would point out also...typically, during assembly, I snug the two bolts to allow pivoting, and turn the Slave to optimize this alignment before final tightening (and there's typically a lot of slop to allow this!)...you might try this also...but it might be too late to help now...I expect operating for an extended time with this misalignment and the angle on that Rod with respect to bore axis, has caused the piston to cock in the hole every time it is actuated, and more excessively than normal, see reference link, scoring the bore and that's what's now causing the leak.

If you were to remove and inspect the bore, I expect you would find serious longitudinal scoring in the area which is on top in the angle as shown in the picture. If you confirm this, replacement is the only option as a new seal will likely not be able to deal with bore damage left even after honing...if you replace, I recommend an O'Ringed piston to prevent bore contact, see link.

...and the fact that no manufacturer's info is visible on casting might indicate this is one of those copies of unknown manufacture, in which case the mounting holes may have additional issues contributing to the problem (size/location).

Good Hunting!

Derek; Tnx for reference!

Thanks for the information.
I have another used, but presumably good slave cylinder. I'll mount it up with close attention to the angle.
If it seems sketchy or exhibits the same problems I'll order one of the O-ringed piston from Ron.
-TR