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1993 240 Classic with EZK. No start. Smell of gas when cranking (Cranks fine). Sudden no start occurred a week ago. Code 214. Cleaned all the ground connections, twirled all the fuses, Replaced the coil, since it tested low. No continuity on the grey wires (85;86) at the main relay on the L fender when cranking. No voltage between #4 and #2 at the power amplifier, ignition on. Suspected the Crank Position Sensor (CPS). Replaced it with new CPS. Still no start. Tested the CPS cable to the ICU at its connector in the engine compartment, found #2 voltage with ignition on was 3.1 V; #3 was connected to ground, and #1, which should be 250 Ohms, was 0.5. Should I suspect a short?
I pulled the ICU connector and tested the voltage at terminal 8 (the ECU connector) -- should be 0.1V, but found 0.0 with the ignition on. Not sure what this means, if anything. Bently says check the wiring and the ECU unit. Any suggestions?
But, back to the CPS cable( it joins a lot of others and runs thru the firewall to the ICU) if it is shorted has anyone re-wired a CPS back to the ICU? If so, how did you do it?
She is still cranking fine, but after four days of trying to figure out why she won't start, I am getting desperate!
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Art: SO glad you are on this! More info: this Texas/ California (not much corrosion) non-EGR car has only 155K mi. It's got the battery terminal mounted fuses.
What diagram are you working from?
Bentley, diagram on p. 280-10, as well as 390-64.
"Main relay" on L fender??
The big relay on a bracket, it has two high current red wires and two standard grey ones.
Should be battery on #4, the blue wire. How exactly are you probing this?
Disconnected, DMM probes in the connector.
#2 is the signal and #1 return (grounded). Bentley has known error on this. Search "bentley errata"
So -- with pins on the CPS to ICU cable mislabeled by Bentley, my test said it's NOT shorted??
Re the bottom pics: I will do these tests and post results ASAP. Thanks.
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With fuses on the battery, you have the late prod '93. Factory WDM is available on volvowiringdiagrams.com. Your eyes will thank you.
Don't follow the steps in my photos unless you understand them because there's a temptation to substitute tools you don't have -- such as timing light, LED circuit tester, incandescent circuit tester. At best you'll be confused, at worst you might damage something in addition to the problem.
Generally, make voltage measurements with everything plugged in and turned on, not to the end of unplugged terminals. Make resistance measurements in just the opposite fashion, unpowered, unplugged.
Yes, I think your measurements at the CPS were OK. Just be sure the pins don't push back in the car-side connector when you plug that new CPS connector in.
If you don't get 12V at the blue wire on the power stage connector, that's where you need to focus. According to the map, it comes from the blue wire on the #15 terminal of the coil.
I still don't know what relay you speak of, but I'm pretty sure it is irrelevant -- maybe the AC pusher fan relay, certainly nothing to do with spark. You say left fender? US driver's side?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
The Art Collector's Wife:
A New York attorney representing a wealthy art collector called and asked to speak to his client. "Saul, I have some good news and, I have some bad news."
The art collector replied, "I've had an awful day; let's hear the good news first."
The lawyer said, "Well, I met with your wife today, and she informed me that she invested $5,000 in two pictures that she thinks will bring a minimum of $15-20million. I think she could be right."
Saul replied enthusiastically, "Well done! My wife is a brilliant businesswoman! You've just made my day. Now I know I can handle the bad news. What is it?"
The lawyer replied, "The pictures are of you with your secretary.”
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Thanks again, Art. Got the way better wiring diagrams from the source you mentioned and got a proper LED circuit tester, with which I was about to start with the spark tests in your photo today. (Delayed by a trip to Yosemite over the weekend)
As I began, I remembered not having found battery voltage w/ or w/o ignition on, at the ign. coil -- not to mention not having seen any spark from a grounded, pulled spark plug when cranking.
Suspecting the Coil's #15 BLU wire to the ignition switch, I pulled on it, and it came out in my hands along with one of the RED-WHT wires. Poking inside the shock tower I found the beginnings of a mouse nest. some wood fibers for nest material plus a bunch of wire segments. The silly little mice had bitten through the heavy wire cover, cut a number of wires, disabling the car. I've cut the damaged bundle, pulled it out, labeled the matching wires, and will now reconnect everything.
Any suggestions on getting the mice to stay away? Poison? Mothballs? Camphor Oil?
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"Any suggestions on getting the mice to stay away? Poison? Mothballs? Camphor Oil? "
None from me, sorry. I know when I'm out of my area and usually refrain from offering advice based on speculation.
But you do remind me just how many repairs I've made as a reaction to animal causes.
Off the top of my head the list is long: Chewed wires over the fuel tank, mud dauber sealed vents, mouse family under the carpets and another in the airbox, groundhog in the belly pan, woodpecker pecked two mirrors to death, and of course, the sheet metal in the front end meeting a deer. All this, and yet the tinworm is by far the most destructive where I live.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
What's the fastest liquid on earth? Milk, because it's pasteurized before you see it.
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We use a product called Fresh Cab. It's amazingly effective at preventing rodents from entering places where you don't want them.
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Hi,
I think you are being confused by the ‘‘values’’ here. The values aren’t actually important, but the meaning behind them is, which must be understood in order to find the solution. If you don’t have power (voltage+current) to the ignition amplifier, then it will not function. I think Art’s suggestion to get the ignition to spark is a good first step before replacing any more parts.
Goatman
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