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I have been digging through timing belt and oil seal replacement procedures and only see removal of the cam and intermediate gear bolts when there is a timing belt to hold the top two gears from turning.
The only idea I have found is to wrap the broken timing belt around the cam and intermediate gears, one at a time, like a strap wrench and turn the bolt.
Can anyone confirm the cam and intermediate gear bolts are torqued to 36 ft-lb? Would a timing belt strap provide sufficient leverage?
- Crankshaft pulley bolt ... last timing belt replacement I put the car in 4th gear, blocked the wheels, and used the transmission to hold the crankshaft for the crankshaft pulley bolt removal. Anyone have cautions on using that method again?
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)
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... the ghost ...
The replacement is:
115736 - HD Solid Camshaft/Auxiliary Shaft Dowel Conversion - B21 B23 B230 B234
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8531/115736-hd-solid-camshaft-auxiliary-shaft-dowel-conversion-b21-b23-b230-b234
Though best to use for modded or built engine for racing. (Say no to burnouts and drifting.) The cold rolled sheet steel pin may go just fine forever as you have few instances to remove the timing belt gear pulleys from either camshaft save for seal replacement, upgrading to a sportier over head cam, or who knows.
The best tool to use to remove both camshaft t-belt gear sprockets.
The tool Volvo PN 9995034 is useful for the timing belt gears with the spokes as shown.
Volvo PN 9995199 is best for the older timing belt gears with the two holes yet works fine with open spoked camshaft t-belt gears.
I have 9995034. It uses a bolt, threaded in a hole of of the casted tool to lock between the spokes, and then the circumference presses against (counter) to the interior edge of the t-belt gear. You secure a 1/2" socket drier to it.
You use your socket driver to loosen the retaining bolt whole holding the counter hold tool as still as you can.
Volvo PN 9995034 is also used as a counterhold for the crankshaft pulley on 240s before the low friction engine harmonic oscillator crank pulley on later 4-cylinder 700s and 900s. Probably other applications.
Else, I've done it exactly as Art details with no problems.
I keep a few spares of these rolled steel pins on hand, pulled from salvage yard engines (dunno where they are), just in case. Yet most major wrenching is done for me on the 240s I own for awhile. (Lest I move into a garage with a kitchen and bedroom.)
You may be able to rent these tools from a Volvo Penta (marine) shop or maybe a Volvo dealership?
See more here:
https://www.justanswer.com/boat/2c8t5-twin-aq145b-engines-w-290-drives-just-broke.html
As Haynes writes, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly, or some such.
So, seal pullers you have figured out. Don't nick the seal bore or the camshaft / crankshaft surface. Whether the newer viton or the orange seals, you may want to use seal cement around the seal exterior.
The entire page ... :
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSealsBeltsVent.htm
Should list all info to allay your concerns for this task. Read caveats on removing the timing belt gears.
Hope that helps you.
Sat-Your-Day morning macduffed.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert. 
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posted by
someone claiming to be Adirondack
on
Fri Sep 15 12:43 CST 2017 [ RELATED]
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Cam gear bolt I have always been able to remove with an 18V 1/4 hex impact driver w/ 3/8" socket adapter.
Do you have one? Lots of people seem to own one but never consider for use on their car. Basically it's a light duty impact wrench.
-AR
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That's an excellent point. I could make a joke, after any concern over the second significant digit in the torque "specs," that my Home Depot driver is only 15.5V, and would that still work? But truly, I use all around the car, and I really have no idea what the battery voltage is nominally. I've even accidentally sheared a 1/2" socket adapter with it. Just hate to get that orange plastic all greasy.
To put aside my sense of humor for something that might be truly helpful, consider that I forget to loosen those two sprocket retaining bolts almost every time while a good belt is still in place, so I'm used to reaching for this handy impact wrench, and confess I have never, not once, used a torque wrench on these sprocket bolts. Just reverse the wrench and muscle memory on the hammer swing is trusted to recreate the torque it took to loosen. Apparently to me, anyway, snug plus 60 degrees (for Phil) is a good approximation for all these rotating sprocket bolts. I do use the torque wrench on the crank. A rope in the cylinder is my counterhold.
Getting the cam sprocket loose with no belt in place is easier by about three swings than the I-shaft, which has so little inertial counterhold. Whack, whack, whack. I'm just lazy enough to use this in place of the air tool.
Thank goodness real mechanics don't work like me.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Randy's Ring & Pinion - Home of the Diff Wizard
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Hi Art,
Thanks for the link to the error list. Lucid and you spent your time well in collaboration.
There were a lot more errors in there than I would ever found by myself.
I appreciated you posting a picture of you and him. It's nice to know what you both look like, really and not some envisionment I had of you both, being wizards! In fact, I should go and see if I can find that post and put you both in my collection of posts to add some character to it!
I made two copies. One for the Bentley and one for a booklet that I keep from the Brickboarder's posts. I'm afraid these web sites may not always be around as long as the cars.
We lost one from the UK not long ago. I forget the site name but the info vanished and there was quite the clatter over there about it.
I recently fixed a reluctant to shift overdrive in my '86 wagon from a "Triumph club" hosting a Laycock web site.
The unit shown is slightly older unit than the ones in our Volvos. In reading things I noticed it can suffer from a weak spring on the pump check valve. They called out a certain length.
Our spring is definitely different but I tested my spring by pulling it longer just to have it shrink right back upon compression.
I then concluded that it to was possibly collapsing or had collapsed. With me with an unknown specification I made my own up!
I found one 1/8" longer with nearly the same wire diameter that was slightly more stout. Bingo! No more waiting until it warms up. It shifts nice and smooth with over 325k again.
I can understand your reluctance to own tools that can only do one thing and one thing only.
I have been selective as well. That is until you do what I did and tie up a few extra bucks in drawer of clutter.
Rusty, of RPR fame, made lots of things too cheap for me to walk away from.
I even have plastic parts bins with some stuff for the newer cars that I have no use for but I got bins.
Rusty rented out the stuff I got from him. The TAB tool and a hand powered injector cleaner pumps.
Don't know if it works only on K jet or all of them? It's sitting up in a cabinet, waiting!
Another thing I bought was one of those Volvo testing tools that uses a diode and light.
I read that Lucid past at the first of the year. He had lots of experience in the K-jet systems since he was into Volvos before us.
I never got around to asking Lucid about this gadget. I now question how to use it or if it's worth having for K jet. I think maybe it works with the frequency valve. That's a best guess.
I will have to get with some green books to see if it has to be used with some other Volvo tool. I hope I got it cheap?
I see that one dollar impact tool. Is it loaded or plain rubber?
I have a lead shot "dead blow" hammer and another solid lead hammer. The head is actually casted of soft lead and deforms slightly. I use it mostly for setting parts down tight in a milling vise or bumping things true in my lathe while it turns. It has "umph" with very little effort and no bounce.
A real old school hammer that is probably outlawed today! (:-( They have taken lead out of everything. I used to find and melt lead weights that fell from car tires. They are now worthless!
What are we suppose to die from now, something really horrible?
So are you saying you do not own a torque wrench? I don't want to believe that! Unless you don't rebuild engines? (:)
Your main tool is not only Orange either. Orange does not hide well under a hat! (:-)
Have a good day!
Phil
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Hi Phil,
Saw what I thought were a few questions in your post, and had one of my own for you.
First my clarifications: I do own several torque wrenches. I use them carefully and always on wheel lug nuts, the crank bolt, and head bolts. When I was a kid I owned two inch-pound torque screwdrivers I recall using on the valve body of a Chrysler Torqueflite. Those I kinda miss, more as old friends, but have no excuse to replace them. No one would characterize me as "reluctant" to own single-purpose tools. Clutter, perhaps but valuable to me. They are the best tools.
The rubber mallet isn't a dead-blow hammer, although I think I have seen those orange lead-loaded hammers in the discount tool store, and for sure, I own one due to Harbor Freight and its famous ability to put lots of tools within reach of the casual user. I keep it with the ammo box full of tent stakes.
I'm impressed you've fixed your OD with a substitute spring. Do you figure the old one got hot and lost its temper? No puns here. I'm about convinced that is the problem with the springs holding the hubcaps on my Corona wheels. The hubcaps were not mine originally.
Now, for my question: Are you saying you got a 9934 injector cleaner/tester from Rusty? It is indeed for K-jet injectors, and I have 3 cars using that fuel technology. Please let me know when you no longer want it; the testers available today are mostly for Diesel injectors with 400-lb gauges, and it looks like my intention to build one from an old brake master is going the way of all pipe dreams.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Two banks with different rates have a conflict of interest.
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Hi Art,
Your story of having a special torque wrench for a Chrysler products is not surprising.
I found out some years ago that only on the left side of early Chrysler vehicles put left hand threaded lugs nut on the wheels.
Their thought was the wheels rotated to the left and they could unscrew themselves.
Imagine being in a hurry to change your tire and forgetting which side of the car you are on. Now that was truly man made chaos.
I wonder if they could have made up two different size lug nuts so one would have to have a tool with double socket end for each side of the car too? Wait, there is the cross arm lug wrench? Nah! The engineers wouldn't have gone that nuts? Someone else came up with sanity for that tool.
Yes, the spring lost its temper from getting too tired or fatigued.
Since most small springs of this type are made at room temperature using a process of "cold working" in the stresses to induce memory.
I doubt the oil in the transmission gets hot enough to rearrange grain structure of the metal.
At the same token, a metal with this memory capability, that is worked continuously cold enough times will submit over time. There are cycle limits to most everything. I'm amazed at cam valve springs cycles but that is a different steel and cost.
Thanks for the compliment and Yes, I was indeed lucky that I found a spring that was nearly the same diameters including the wire.
Both had a little off shading by having some darkness to it. The new one was actually a little longer than the original of less than 5/8" worn.
Apparently, Laycock used a rather common "off the shelf" spring. A good engineer!
The ones in the earlier Laycocks had a call out of 3/4" minimum, so I Gambled, that this new one was not that long and the old one wasn't either new. Got to put it together either way?
I thought I was on to something when I tried to stretch the original spring longer and it did stretch with a quite hard of a pull.
I thought I might get away with that lame trick.
Right away after I squeezed it several times, it shrunk back to almost where it was when I started playing with it. Ah ha, Fatigued!
As far as the injector cleaning tool, it is a homemade affair also. It look nothing like a tool, with your part numbers, that I found on a search.
I don't remember for sure how he came to have it or how much he used it. I think he said he played with a little bit with some cleaner but if the patterns changed it was hard to tell.
He had mixed feelings how good or what it was good for, so if I wanted it, I got it.
Now I wonder how bad my engines would have to run before I would use it too! I have never, ever cleaned or replaced any injector yet. I do have spares for all my cars, so, up on the shelf it has set!
He had steel lid compartment boxes with electrical terminals, injection fittings and "o" rings too! Not sure what all they fit, if even Volvo's.
It was the cabinets that I liked so he made me a deal to take it all because some of it in there, he said, he wouldn't wish on his best friend! Hmmm, what was I... thought?
Not sure if he got anything out of me for the pump exactly or not? I spent a couple grand maybe all together there.
But like he said, I got a lot of maintenance items to keep my cars running.
Then, Like I said, he was bargaining to get rid of things and if it fits in my wagon, I helped him move out of the building.
I bet it sold the building for more than his whole store was worth just from its location in nearby San Francisco. He moved up to Napa Valley with some change to retire on. He didn't know if he would go back in business or just do it on the side for friends. I used to have his new e-mail but it's been years to long now?
I did get some nick-nacks that were not even for a 240.
It came down to, Taking some Ugly with the Good.
Now my life is like a little part of Harry Chapins song "Up On the Shelf"
I will send you pictures of the pump to the flame traps email as I don't have your direct email. Maybe never had it. At least you can see someone's else "dream injector cleaner" to think about and how bad you want one.
I know we exchanged some chatter once long ago but over the years I have upgrade phones. Actually I get her old ones. If I had your email I lost it. I have change email names or ISP's too. Time changes everything.
I just can't seem to remember how to use the BB or with Photobucket very well. About the time I get it done once, it's too far between next time to want to get frustrated all over again.
I'm lucky I caught on getting email back and forth, especially to my wife.
Of course that was do it or die! You know from starvation, as she would probably forget me at meal times for spite.
Later,
Phil
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I'm not sure if you have a question or not?
The answer is,
If you replace the broken belt with a new belt, temporarily around the all the sprockets, you will not have a problem locking them up using the transmission and parking brakes.
An air impact wrench will zip all them bolts right out.
The belt just needs to have the slack taken out. No need to time anything until you get the seals.
After that the sprockets get put back on their respective marks with number one cylinder up on TDC.
Same thing about going back together to lock it back up. No slack allowed on the right side from the cam, to the distributor sprocket and around down to the crank.
The specifications of 36 foot lbs seems about right for those two bolts. The tensioning bearing is about the same too. Those diameters are about equal as I remember?
The crankshaft is about 45 lbs. and then mark one of the bolt head flats and then give it a turn of one more flat farther around. This puts it up around 100+ ft lbs. with an air impact easily.
I could check tomorrow in my manuals for the torque values as its out back tonight in my bigger shop. Post back if someone else doesn't provide some. FAQ's may have them.
Hope this gets you fired up again.
Phil
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Thanks Phil.
You are on it. The thought of using the new timing belt as a lock never occurred to me.
It would be great if you were able to dig out the torques for:
-cam gear
-intermediate (distributor) gear
-tensioner
Thomas
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)
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I found:
-cam gear bolt (50 NM) 35 ft-lb
-intermediate (distributor) gear (50 NM) 35 ft-lb
-tensioner (50 NM) 36 ft-lb (?)
Based on an on-line conversion
(50 NM) = 37(minus) ft-lb
So I would say all the above are 36 ft-lb.
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)
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Hi,
In my Bentley manual I came up with 37 ft lb for all three.
The B230 carries a two stage torque application or requirement.
Stage one is actually 44 ft lb with a wrench.
Stage two is additional 1/6 - turn, of which is on a hexagon bolt, is one flat, by eyeball, or 60 degrees.
Bentley has it written 90 degrees turn but has to be an error as it contradicts the fraction.
A 122 ft lb specification is for earlier engines that do not have a harmonic balancer.
I bet either one is plenty tight!
That 122 number just about pegs out, or is at the far end of the scale, of home use torque wrenches.
When using any instruments or gauges, it is best to operate them in their midrange of calibration for the most accurate results. So, I can appreciate the two stage method.
If you were raised, as the only brother among a bunch of "twisted" sisters or just one sister in my case, you won't let these specifications bother you.
So, in all of the above bah-bah, a pound ot two really won't matter.
(:-)
Phil
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