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I now have a broken sway bar link so I guess I'm replacing parts and will change them all if I'm able. Recommendation on what should be replaced are welcome.
The car is a 1992 with 106K miles.
I don't want a stiff hard ride so would it be best to go OEM Volvo in stead of after market?
Where is the best place to order the parts?
Dan
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Stumped,I have the control arm out and the new front bushing installed.
I moved on to the rear control arm bushing and it don't fit. The bushing has an inner sleeve that does not slide over the round pipe/tube looking thing on the back of the control arm.
What am I missing :)
Does the sleeve need to be removed from the "new" bushing or do I have the wrong part?
If I need to remove the new sleeve from the new bushing what is the best way to do this?
Also, What does it mean the bushing preload the rear bushing?
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I'm reading that the control arm bushings are not interchangeable.
How are they different?
Now, the sway bar bushing I receive from the part place (FCPE) don't fit the sway bar brackets on my car. Should I be ordering brackets too?
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It's done, thank you all.
I managed to replace the control arm bushing, sway bar bushing and brackets, sway bar end links, outer tie-rod ends and ball joints and what a difference.
I was able to borrow a large assortment ball joint remover tool from AZ and with my bench vise, my press and an assortment of sockets I got r done.
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Glad to hear you got-er-done! Was it fun?
If not, take the money you saved doing it yourself and go find some fun!
What tool did you need to remove a ball joint? For me it unbolted (4) from underneath and I knock the end link taper loose with a hammer.
What struts did you end up putting in?
Were you able to find good rubber parts for everything?
I have read that is getting to be a hassle to replace them with quality units.
Thanks for the update
Phil
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from your description it appears the old bushing separated from its steel sleeve and that sleeve has rusted to the control arm.
you need to
1. fit the c arm in a vise securely so you have good access to the rusted sleeve on the c arm
2. find a good cold chisel and sharpen it if it not sharp now
3. find a good 3 lb hand sledge or equal
4. look carefully for the seam on the rusted steel sleeve of the old bushing. its there since these sleeves were not seamless but flat stock rolled into tubes
5. once you find the seam give it a go with the chisel to separate it from itself
it will peel off the c arm once you open the seam enough
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That was it. The old sleeve is off.
Now to order another bushing for the one I destroyed.
Thanks, that was spot on.
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106k mile and 27 yea owld.
Volvo OEM strut mounts .. early Failure?
http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315522
The article details issues with Volvo OEM PN 1272455, the two strut mounts in your 1991 240.
What Volvo sells now is junk. Worse than after-market. Aftermarket (Meyle, Febi, KYB, others) may last three years before doming or the bushing material,
Strut mount bushing material will seem to appear pushed up, or domed. Or the bushing matter speerates from the outer metal form of the inner metal bearings assembly.
A solution is:
https://www.kaplhenke.com/collections/240/products/240-spherical-offset-strut-mounts
Uses a dry lube for the bearing. yet these are racing parts, not daily driver parts, and in a post Ben indicated they may last two or three years or so, or did not know, as it was not tested on a daily driver, so you may have to remove the struts to replace it depending on how many miles you drive it.
Does not want a stiff ride ....
So, I'd suggest the Bilstein (B4) Touring front and rear for 240. Best bang for the buck, These WILL fit your front 1991 240 struts, ABS or no.
B4 OE Replacement - Suspension Strut Cartridge
Part Number: 21-030314
Series: B4 OE Replacement
Position: Front
B4 OE Replacement - Shock Absorber
Part Number: 19-019529
Series: B4 OE Replacement
Position: Rear
Say no to the B6 Performance front strut cartridges, formally named the Bilstein HD. They won't fit your front strut tubes without some significant mods to the front strut tube-axle assemblies or replacement of these with those from a 198e-86 strut tubes. Unless Bilstein changed these to fit, and I doubt it.
Your other option for dampers (shocks) are:
KYB Excel-G front and rear.
Dunno if these fail in like three years like the tire and muffler shop store brands known as Monroe and the like cheap. (Gabriel is a quality brand in Europa.)
So we have Garbiel Ultra for 1991 Volvo 240:
http://gabriel.com/product-search/light-vehicle/?yr=1991&make=Volvo&model=240&engine=
Gabriel G44856 Ultra Cartridge
They offer a Strut Mount
Gabriel Ultra 143057 Strut Cushion
And rear dampers (shocks)
Gabriel 143057 Strut Cushion Front Strut Cushion for use with the Strut/Cartridge/Shocks;
Best
Gabriel 69787 Ultra Shock Rear
Some testimonials I'd read rate Gabriel and better and longer lived than KYB.
The other is the mis-titled, on the iPd USA site of the:
Boge (by Sachs)- or -Sachs (by Boge)
Boge Automatics = Sachs Super Touring - softer compliant ride
Boge Turbo Gas = Sachs Advantage (Is Now Discontinued for 240, yet remains in stock)
Boge has nothing to do with it.
I have the Boge Turbo Gas = Sachs Advantage strut cartridge dampers from iPd on my 1990 240. No gas charge. No need to strap them as they do not pop out.
Else, no Koni. Very expensive.
If you have a press with mandrels, or, have a competent and honest auto machine shop. Press in / out the both control arm bushes. The small / front control arm bushes may prove difficult.
When you reaasemble the front suspension, do not tighten the bushing hardware fully while in the air. Do it when it is flat, or at your alignment mechanic on the alignment rack.
Also, to halt rear suspension bushing failure before it begins, you may want to give the torque rods a twist and inspect. The torque rod bushings fail first, and than the whole lot follows. In ever, both torque rod ends do much better with solid urethane bushes, and lots of silicon synthetic grease like SuperLube NLGI-II. Press out the old outer bushing shell and many makes of (poly) urethane bushings secure inside the torque rod end.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/11004/124480-torque-rod-bushing-set-poly
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6054/109353-torque-rod-bushing-set-poly
The urethane may transfer more rear differential noise over the solid rubber bushes. Does not bother me, yet at 15x,xxx miles on the 1992 and gravy know how many miles on the 1990 240 (175k? 235K?, swapped out ODO before I owned it), does not bother me.
I did not answer your reply over a year ago. Sorry:
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1634470/220/240/260/280/example_1991_240_130xxx_miles_wholly_failed_strut_mounts.html
Hope this helps.
KGB-V
Prevet Comrade. Ha-heh-beh.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert. 
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Wow, thanks so much for the info. I'll have to come back to this when I have to replace the shocks.
I have the bushing now to work on the front of the car.
I haven't looked at the repair book yet so I don't know if the answer for what I'm about to ask is in there or not.
Do I need to compress the springs before I remove the control arms? My first thought is, ya. Is there a good DYI way of doing this?
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The disassembly of the front suspension is underway.
I read that silicon grease should be put on the bushings before install them.
Is there a certain grease that is better for this?
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Thank you, that's what I was looking for.
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Hi, I would sincerely hope you don't have to, with only 106 k on the car!
Stock parts last longer than that.
If a previous owner had the struts changed, just for the mind set of "its over 100k," then look out for a crapshoot with labor and parts being used.
As I remember, if the car is off the ground the wheels they will be fully extended and limited by the stroke of the struts piston.
If you are replacing struts, you should marked the alignment plates positions that are under the three nuts on top of the tower.
Then loosened the strut rods center nut, under a plastic cap, only a few turns while the car is on the ground.
Next, only just loosening the lug nuts before raising the car to remove the wheels.
You will need then need to remove the brake calipers and hang them out of your way.
If you are going to do wheel bearings repack, now is the time to pull the rotors off the spindle, as a unit.
You can also remove the dust shield for inspection for rust and painting if needed. It will also give you more access to things directly behind it. Ball joint bolts, end links and the outer tie rods.
Knock of the tie rod ends out of their respective tapered holes. I back the nut off a few turns and smack the top of the nut with a heavy hammer downward. I put something between the two to cushion or protect the nut from the impact. It will save the nut and the threads from damage so they can be reused if need be.
The the sway bar can be released by remove the nuts over the rubbers of the end links or by removing the bolt through the bottom eyelet ring. The strut is removed from the car by unclamping the bar from the support bushings. They all connect up in any order that lets you fit things together without loading the bar. The reloading happens when it gets back on the ground and evenly pushed upon.
The control arms are held more so by the rear box that holds the rear bushings.
Look at just unbolting that rear box as a unit. This allows you to get to the nut that holds the rear bushing onto the control arm.
If the box stays up on the car there is Very little room for sockets and ratchets. It also lets the whole affair drop an move around while later dropping the assembly and not fighting the fender wells with the strut.
From here all should be hanging free by only the upper end of the strut mount.
Remove those three nuts and it should all drop.
At this point you put on the spring compressor, tighten the two compressors until it releases the rubber mount from under tension.
Since you have already loosened that nut get a grip on the rod and remove nut and the rubber mount.
The strut is held inside the arm assembly by a notched retaining nut that screws in the strut tube.
Assembly is the reverse by using the alignment marks on the plates.
All of the components are tight fitting down below so, You can, in all likelihood, will not have to get the alignment check. That is, if it was not moved from the factory settings, before hand, to correct for super bad rubber lower bushings or ball joint wear. Like in both being totally wiped out before you started the rebuild.
If the car goes straight on a level "side to side" road, one with very little crown from center for water drainage and the tires look straight forward with a straight up & down attitude as the rear wheels are standing, you are good.
If you popped the tie rods back into their tapered holes in without loosening and locking nuts the T&T should be exactly the way it was.
Watch for tire wear on the inside or outside of both tires in case of excessive tow-in or tow-out.
If the cars drifts easily from it's intended steerage course, tow-out will need to be adjusted in.
You want just enough tow-in to make it drive straight, like it's on rails, but not so much to cause any outside edge wear between rotations.
Lets know if you had fun!
Phil
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just from what I hear using polyurethane bushings may make for a stiffer ride but more durable bushing, if you go that far into the rebuild. I got very strong looking MOOG problem solver ball joints for $25? each from Rock Auto, and a very strong looking but expensive unknown Euro brand for about the same price, much heavier than those I have gotten in the past. Rock Auto Moog ball joints are same price as very weak looking generic ball joints from Advance? or Auto Zone, I forget which. I think AAP / AZ had a lifetime parts only warranty, which is better. I don't hear good things about many Volvo OEM parts lately.
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Ditto on the Moog problem solver ball joints. I put a set on one of my 240's and like them a lot. They have a different boot design and grease fittings. Did the ones you used have the grease fittings?
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yes, they had grease fittings on the RA Moog ball joints. The euro sway bar links phrase means an unknown european? brand also from rock auto, not E-Euro.. I 'm still trying to find the box they came in. it's enough hassle to get stuff put in that I am biased towards spending the extra $50 pro rated over 5 years for the 4 above items, and just bite the extra cost if car is wrecked in the interim. And I am amazed at the giant price spread, esp. on the under dash relay for fuel pump, a common failure item. Of course the local indy garage will probably strongly favor the cheaper stuff, and prices between Dealer AND ALL internet shops, even when selling the same 3rd party brand. , they are presuming that you are trying to just get by until the next inspection fails and the scrap dealer gives you $150 and shreds it up. Then you take the $150 and pick up a newer Saturn that lacks very little except has bad ball joints.....but Saturns are cult cars now.
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I have to look into the Rock Auto site.
Rebuilding the front end is something I've been wanting to do all year and now I'm getting ready to start it. It's time to put together a parts list and a plan on doing it. It's my first time doing a complete front end.
On my other PC I used to have all the places to go for 240 parts but that PC crashed and I didn't print anything so, I'm starting my list again.
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I like Rock Auto, and also IPD, E EURO in Wilton, FCP Groton maybe, Swedish Lights and Lenses on e-bay, Pats Parts on e-bay, Pelican Parts maybe, and whatever mystery places on e-bay that might barely be worth risking. Discount Tire Direct for tires 7 days before all holidays. Used to be a used Volvo junkyard in Erie, N.Y. and a guy on Brickboard that had decals, etc. That's all I can remember today.
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Sort of like one reply, I use ipd and eEuroparts and have for years. They have factory original and OEM supplier parts at prices like Autozone junk. I like to stay factory stock for most things on our cars. We have a 1990 740 with 359000 miles and almost every part has come from one of those 2 places. Suspension is all stock factory replacement. On my 242 I used ipd lowering springs which are extremely stiff with Bilstein touring struts and shocks
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