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1984 240 Volvo Engine Idling Problem 200 1984

Hello everyone,

My family's Volvo 240 engine idling rough and inconsistent, especially at the stop sign when the car needs to proceed, the engine hesitates. However, when the car accelerates it picks up RPM and power. I have done the following work on the engine and still am having problems with start up, rough idling, and running rich.
Replaced air idle valve
Replaced pressure regulator
Replaced throttle position switch
Cleaned the throttle body
Replaced fuel pump and fuel filter
Replaced Oxygen sensor
Installed new Bosch copper spark plugs
Ignition coil tested and is good
Air Mass Meter is good
Warm or cold, the idling is rough and oscillating. The initial start up is quite bad but as the engine gets warm it picks RPM. I very much appreciate for any ideas or tips you may have to share.

Thank you,
Habib








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    1984 240 Volvo Engine Idling Problem 200 1984

    I agree with Machine Man on the coolant temperature sensor. I have experienced some of the same issues with the idle as you, with the exception of a high idle speed. I found out the reason for that- the U-shaped clip or spring in the Bosch (AMP) connector had somehow worked its' way out and was causing a very high idle speed. After replacing the connector and the coolant temperature sensor, while I was at it, I had no more problems.

    Andrew








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      1984 240 Volvo Engine Idling Problem 200 1984

      Hi Andrew,

      Thank you for your time and sharing your experience concerning Volvo 240.

      Regards,
      Habib








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    1984 240 Volvo Engine Idling Problem 200 1984

    Hi,
    Running rich does cause all three. It depends on air temperature and engine temperature to what extent and when.

    Have you considered the engines Coolant sensor for the fuel injection system or ECU?
    It signal output sets the mixture program from start, warming up and completely hot @ operating temperature.
    The sensor is located under the third intake runner just above the flame trap hoses.
    Kinda a bugger to get to but it can be changed without draining the Coolant if you keep the rest of the system closed up tight and cold.

    It's more important to use a 198 degree Fahrenheit or 92 degree Celsius thermostat.
    I recommend this temperature thermostat, made by Wahler, if you want the engine to get its best mileage.
    So you will have to know if both are working correctly. Again, the ECU needs that report from the sensor to be correct too so know the engine upper hose is nice and hot.


    The dash gauge, which uses a separate sensor, closer to the front of the engine, should read horizontally @ operating temperature. If not, be suspicious of the thermostat first as many brands can be sluggish or stick open. I have had "Caloric" brands do both and the sticking shut one is the worse condition.

    With thermostats you need to lower the level only, unless it's time to change the Coolant.
    Using the block drain or what I do, because I don't like crawling under a car, is to either siphoning or by lowering the reservoir down beside the engine and pour off what's in the tank.
    With the excess gone, you can raise the reservoir higher than the motors Coolant, take the hose off the tank and then by lowering that hose only into a pail beside the engine.
    Draw off until the hose is just below the thermostat and in a few quarts it will eventually stop.
    Put the hose back up on the tank and attach it back to the saddle bracket.

    Maybe this was more information than you wanted to know but what the heck, it's free (?) .... if you don't count the internet fees!
    I paid for half, so you can toss whichever half you paid for. (:-)? Mine is tossed out there already in case your confused (:)
    Hey, I tried my best for an evenings pleasure.
    Good luck!

    Phil








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    1984 240 Volvo Engine Idling Problem 200 1984

    How did you determine the AMM was good?

    The best I could tell mine was OK too. Not untiI I swapped it out with an AMM from a salvage yard did the running rich stop. At that time I also replaced the FPR and TSP. I actually got a new throttle body with the TSP still attached since I was suspect of my adjustments.

    Additionally, it may be wise to change your oil more often since running rich can contaminate the engine oil with gasoline.
    --
    1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)







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