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Flush my engine block - installed a new radiator 200

posted by  fyshbyte on  Sat Apr 7 11:44 CST 2018
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I replaced the radiator on my 240 because the transmission lines were leaking into the cooling system.

now i need to flush the engine block to remove the redish-brown sludge before i connect the new radiator.

need info on how to flush the system.

i already connected the transmission lines to the new radiator but not the water hoses.

thank you








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    Flush my engine block - installed a new radiator 200

    posted by  someone claiming to be CB on  Sat Apr 7 17:29 CST 2018 [RELATED]

    Flushing The Cooling System. Engine Block

    Seal the thermostat housing outlet. (top radiator hose)
    This is with the WaterPump on the block.
    Put a hose on the bottom outlet of the WP or not depending where you want the water to drain

    Hook up a hose to the rear block drain cock (found under #4 exhs on the block)
    Run water thru that rear drain cock.
    Use hot water -- from your house.








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      Flush my engine block - installed a new radiator 200

      posted by  someone claiming to be CB on  Sat Apr 7 17:37 CST 2018 [RELATED]

      For Reverse Flush -- as when changing the Coolant

      cap the Lower Outlet. Remove the Thermostat. Attach a hose to the Thermostat housing.

      Water goes as above, into the block drain cock.








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        Flush my engine block - installed a new radiator 200

        posted by  Michael Yount on  Sat Apr 7 21:38 CST 2018
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        last visit: Thu Oct 23 20:03 CST 2014
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        CB's counsel to use hot water is spot on -- that does a much better job of cleaning things out.

        An approach I've taken many times is to simply drain the system and refill it. Drive the car for 10-15 minutes with heater valve open to get coolant up to temp and move it around. Drain it, refill, repeat as many times as you need to feel comfortable you're as clean as you can be. Some folks like to use one of the flush/cleaning products - put that in for the first fill. And if you don't like to have tap water in your coolant, you can use distilled water for each fill/drain. It takes a bit longer, but no hoses to disconnect/reconnect, no flush ports to install.








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    Flush my engine block - installed a new radiator 200

    posted by  jwalker on  Sat Apr 7 16:43 CST 2018
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    last visit: Fri Jun 6 08:39 CST 2014
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    Flush your transmission ASAP!

    As suggested, probably a good idea to also drop the tranny pan and inspect first.







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    Flush my engine block - installed a new radiator 200

    posted by  kittysgreyvolvo on  Sat Apr 7 14:11 CST 2018
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    last visit: Sat Oct 18 15:23 CST 2014
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    What year? How many miles?

    No, the transmission cooling lines did not fail. The radiator has two sections:

    - One for engine coolant
    - One for transmission fluid

    There was an internal radiator seal failure between the two section. Oil and coolant mixed in your transmission and cooling system.

    Sort of doubt yet may be the factory installed radiator. A terrible design and a separate transmission fluid cooler would prevent it. Or, using proper antifreeze and using distilled water. Or real demieralized & deionized water is better.

    If you have an old radiator with side plastic tanks, replace it with an all-metal radiator. Used is fine if a trusted radiator shop can test the radiator for you for cheap.

    Anyhoo, in the FAQ, read here:

    - https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAuto.htm
    - https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Cooling.htm

    The coolant is caustic and can sort of rapidly ruin the wet clutch disks in AW7x with a brown sludge coolant / Dexron ATF misture. Some may suggest you drop transmission sump pan (with replacement gasket on hand - or not) and inspect the pan for excess grit from delaminated / deteriorated clutch disks.

    Questions?

    Hope that helps.
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