Hi everyone,

This is my first time potentially buying a Volvo 245. I've always wanted one of these cars.

I'm currently looking at this one on craigslist and would like some advice as to what would be a good offer. I plan to have the car looked at by a local Volvo mechanic before making a decision.

https://newhaven.craigslist.org/cto/d/89-volvo-240-gl/6722441750.html

Any advice for a first time buyer? Should I wait for something better? It looks to be in really good shape. I ran a CarFax on it, clean history.

The owner also provided this info about work he has done to it:
"replaced new right rear brake caliper, replaced alternator bracket
bolt for a larger one the original one broke this summer, replaced fuel
filter with the tune up , changed valve cover gasket."

My knowledge of car mechanics is very basic, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Just got back from the Volvo mechanic.

Needs a decent amount of work, so I am going to pass on this one. The owner and I agreed that I would not be able to offer a price he is looking for.

Here are the problems that were discovered:
Transmission leak (not significant now, but will need to be addressed)
Catalytic converter rusted out and was improperly replaced at one point
Splash pan missing
Heater pipe needs to be replaced
Front brake housings are rotted
Trailing arm bushings and torque rod bushings need to be replaced
Timing belt needs to be replaced

Thanks to everyone for your advice. I will keep searching.

The repairs you noted above - with the exception of "front brake housings rotted" would be expected on an '89 240 Volvo by year 2000. I don't understand what a "brake housing" is, but I've had to do all the other repairs on the 1980s Volvos I've owned (4 of them). If this is all that is wrong with the car, perhaps you can get the seller to reduce the price based on the cost of these repair items. As someone else noted in the thread, the deal breaker on these cars are rust and accident damage.

If you are on a budget and in the hunt for an old Volvo, consider a 900 series car. They are a much improved version of the 240 (same rugged engine and trans. + a body that resists corrosion better). But they lack the "cool factor" of the 240s - so they sell for much less.

There was some slight body damage around the back right taillight from what looks like a minor accident. Nothing big.
And I'm not sure if I'm using the correct term for the brake problem, but I am referring to the covers on the backside of the wheels if that makes any sense.
The transmission leak was my primary concern because it will be costly (which is fine, but when paired with the other problems it becomes too expensive for me).
The owner is not willing to let it go for $2,500. He paid $4,500 for it and put $500 or so into it.

I am also considering a 940 wagon if I can find a decent one. Or maybe I'll save up a little more and purchase a 240 from the south / west coast, fly out and drive it back.

Hi,

If you are really considering coming out west to get one of the cars I know a place that is a refurbisher of Volvos.

You can check out his web site at Wagonmiester.com. He occasionally offers car there for sale that he works over and drives them until all of the bugs are out.
That what he had done to my 1992 sedan.
I have had three years now and 20,000 miles later is going strong. It has made a trip to Florida from California and just recently a trip from California to Denver Colorado over some big climbs up to 10,000 feet. Never missed a lick or anything on both trips.

I put new tires on it right away because they were 10 years old and a new battery a year or so later.
When he refurbishes a car it get struts, shocks, timing belt, seals, windshield, headlights, taillights or what ever it takes to make it absolutely road worthy. He thought the automatic transmission had been redone as it was clean. It shifted perfectly in my book as well.
My car, he said when he got, it was the dirtiest car he had ever to cleaned up. He said it was a "diamond in the rough!" The paint job was original and great but had ground in scuz and dog hair everywhere. He repainted the black trim and it looked sharp!
He may still have pictures of it on his site somewhere? I copied them for my archives.

On his site, he sells other items to repair things that go wrong with the 240's. Mostly irreplaceable items or tries to make them better. New foam Seat cushions are his biggest sellers, I think?

He sells heater valves and had already installed one in my car sometime prior to my purchase. Like I say he drives them himself.
It was one of many of the buying points I considered a definite plus!
Then one day, months after I had the car, he gave me a call!
He told me that his manufacturer of the valve had did a change up of "O" rings inside the valve. They did this without telling him.
The change up reversed the direction of flow or made it so that it needed to be reversed. If not corrected he was afraid it could or would leak.
He could not remember when he put that valve in the car so was it the old style that worked fine or the newer valve.
He offered me a choice to bring it back for replacement or he would send me a hose kit, that had devised to reverse the flow to the correct way. Since it was a good 160 miles one way from my closest house I chose the kit. The package had a another complete valve, hoses and more clamps. So, it was all a neat straight away clean job. Not much room under there but it fitted.

What's nice about the whole affair is, he could have shined me on and I would not have know any different. Like I said, he stands behind his products, let alone his cars.

It's his reputation on the line and he is about as honest as they come.

Just check the site out and see what if anything what he got or can do for you.
He is also a Brickster or poster under the name David Samuels.

Good luck in your hunt!

Phil

The two best used cars I have ever had in terms of reliability and lack of problems to sort out came from sources similar to the Wagonmeister. One was a 35 year old 144, prepared by Amazon Cars in the UK. The other is my current wagon, prepared by a locally well-known classic Volvo collector near where I live now in Australia. He buys and sorts out Volvos to sell when he has nothing to do on his own personal collection of Volvos. One of the main advantages of going this route, even though you may pay more for the car, is that they are better at finding the right car to prepare.

TLDR ;)

But at least Dave Samuels deserves his web presence to be plugged without typo:

http://wagonmeister.com
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"...people will always choose a simple lie over a complicated truth, because the lie has one unbeatable advantage: the truth always has to stick to what actually happened, whereas the lie just has to be easy to believe" - Fredrik Backman

Hi Art

? TLDR ? Looked it up. Too Long; Didn’t Read or Too Lazy; Didn’t Read

I agree I write long but I cannot help you with the lazy! (:-)

My machine likes to spell Wagonmeister when I type in just the word wagon.
Soooo, I’m guilty of being lazy too!

I’m sure the W doesn’t matter much anymore as the browsers use to liked WWW. in the old-dummm days, as well. I didn’t try to make a link as it might break some rules on the use of the Brickboard.
I was just suggesting about what I did to get a good car quickly and my good luck in doing so.

Thanks for the critique there Art, without you and my wife, I’d be all run-a- mucked!

Phil

Oh, I figured you'd give me the i-before-e excuse and I'd point out that "wagonmeister" is a combination of English and German spellings thus being a bit more difficult than a real word would be. Maybe your machine would autocorrect miester to meister and you should let it. Does your wife ever tell you the "devil is in the detail?" Those details are what make Dave Samuel's work pay off.

Actually I did read the whole thing (smile) because I enjoy the social aspect of this forum as much as the facts and technical help. Perhaps I tease too much.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

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Past performance cannot guarantee future results.

sounds like he is asking a lot. you do not mention any rust underneath but nevertheless..come comments

cat - yes that's a money issue
splash pan.. well not many have them anymore
heater pipe.. if it's the one from the manifold then not needed
brakes housings - again not a big deal
trailing arm bushings etc - yes a BIG $$ deal
timing belt - yep another money item..

i think my 3k estimate was too much now. reducing to 2k if that.
4500 no way.

keep on searching the one wagon (black) on CL in athol mass looks interesting

https://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/d/1993-volvo-240-wagon-black/6723388768.html
--
'91 244 205k auto

There was some rust on the 240 I saw today, nothing extreme but some spots in the wheel wells. There was one spot in particular in the back right wheel well (under the spare) that the mechanic anticipated would completely rot through in a year or so.
I was just looking at that one in Athol actually. What are your thoughts on buying a 200k+ mile 240? Or something with higher mileage in general. Should I not pay as much attention to the mileage, considering the reliability of these cars?

200k is nothing for these engines. the biggest concern is rust. that need to be checked in person on a lift. no other way unless hi res pics are given.
the one in athol looks like it had a LOT done to it already. his starting price is realistic. the blower motor is said to be replaced. a huge job. this car won't last on the market in that condition...



--
'91 244 205k auto

Buy this car and have it shipped.

With shipping it will be about the same cost but a better car.

M47 real 5-speed is the wagon you want.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/d/90-volvospeed-wagon/6715732778.html

FYI: The car is posted on TurboBricks. Owned by a Volvo guy.

I actually saw that listing the other day. I haven't considered shipping one across the country but might look into it.

Might be an option for me. Thanks. Any known issues (or benefits) to the manual model over the automatic?

Hi,

From what I can see the car looks like a $3,000 plus car. The mileage, 145k, is lower than normal probably because he has other Volvo’s. The backend of the car has a club laying in it. This car means something to him and it’s a sign of caring to keep it. So, maybe he did take care of it?

Your Car Fax is only as good as the “REPORTS” given! Otherwise ownerships in locations is as good as it gets! That thing is only food for thought. It’s nothing for the here and now!
Very much like a heritage DNA check, what does the information do for you after that?

Good tires and those alloys are on premium chassis. The turbo gauge inside means that it cost more originally. The seats were premium too but reupholstered in vinyl will cost at least $200- $300 a seat in a package deal plus the rears to round that out slightly upwards.

To offer $1500 is an insult IMHO. My response, if I was selling it, is take a hike!
He’s asking $4500 cause he expects he is going to have to take less.
It’s the same thing as new cars are trying to sell for. It cost nothing to have a price number way up there to make someone think their getting a buy.
A cheap tactic ona new anything you buy but when you are selling used, it’s a survivor mode technique.

Most cars will lose 10 plus percent just to start plus any other costly items that need fixed or replaced. Check tire manufacturing dates. That is usually worth $200 with over eight years old and any side wall cracking.
$3800 maximum is a more than a reasonable offer to start good relations with. This is taken on his end for you being serious. This is before an inspection and any rust later it goes farther down quickly.
The turbo can become a cost but that isn’t breaking bones here if it sounds normal while working.
You got to go with it’s complications as they will come but smiles if you like it! It’s an Adjustable zone to create concern during negotiations.

Wagons are the best for moving things compared to a sedan. They get a better price anytime.
I think it would be the car I would keep for that reason.
Then again he may not have needs to haul any longer. Camping gets harder to do when you get soft in older age brackets.

Anyway the car will serve you well. The taxes and license that you save over a new car, you are ahead of the game every year later.
IMHO.
This car may last long enough for the electric cars to get established, so save those coins!

Phil

Thanks for your response Phil.
I think $3,800 is a more reasonable starting point as well.
I will get back to you once I see what the mechanic says.
What are your thoughts on the suspension sagging? Maybe it is just the photo, but it looks like the back end is hanging lower. Is this something to be concerned about? The owner noted no issues, but it does look a little off to me.
Anything specific you would advise me to ask the mechanic or have him look at?

Hi,

On all my sedan cars, except my 1978 GT, I have beef up the rear springs from standard by putting on station wagon springs from the mid eighties.
My 1986 wagon is wearing some IPD overloads because I load that baby up moving between houses with the seasons changing.

I have always thought that the newer wagons and cars where a bit under sprung to give that bigger car like, soft ride. Even the same goes for the newer cars, with their plastic springs, to save weight.

The transmission oil change intervals are real important so have the mechanic evaluate the shifting points and outside conditions of the seals. The Rear main seal on the engine and the transmission mating zone could have either oils. Shake and rotate the driveline to check the center support bearing for giggles while he is under there.
Of course poke for rust!

Be aware of the CPS sensor on these cars! It’s still young enough to not have it changed. Ask the owner about it and of course seals and timing belt intervals. All this stuff is inexpensive to replace for the do it yourself type. That makes these cars valuable.

These low mileage Volvo’s still have lots of metal to show and some owners add mileage badges!

Phil

Maybe it is the photo angle but the driver's rear looks lower than the passenger rear. Have the mechanic check the whole rear suspension. Especially springs and bushings as they are most likely culprits to cause "sag".

Cracked dashboard and worn out corner on seat bring down the car's worth. You could use them as negotiating leverage.

Being from New England as well, i can say there are not many good wagons left on the market here. Having said that this car looks good on the surface. You need to get it on a rack to really check the rust underneath. As others have said some more questions and answers are in order.. Blower motor condition being foremost. A working a/c is a plus. The price is definitely a bit on the high side, think you could probably beat that down somewhat depending on your findings during inspection. Good luck, looks worth the effort.

--
'91 244 205k auto

Anything in particular I should be asking the mechanic? Want to make sure I don't miss anything.

yes definitely besides rust check all suspension shocks front end ball joints tie rod ends steering rack. when was the timing belt/water pump done? someone mentioned a turbo this car has no turbo. that is an oil pressure gauge on the dash along with a voltmeter = cool. i'm thinking 3k would be a good max price .. if all the stuff checks out... the interior is a little beat.
--
'91 244 205k auto

Hi,
I’m sorry, my mistake, I’m the one that thought that gauge was a boost gauge not a oil pressure gauge.

I think at 145,000 the suspension ball joint should be ok but the shocks all the way around might be a little soft. It depends on the paths to the camping areas if the owner(s) even rough drove the car.
The wear on the tires can tell their story for help in that area.

This one might be a cream puff! $3000 + is still a fair price but if it looks good up close on the paint job, that’s worth bucks!
Yes, the seats are shoddy and that in itself is the reason why most new cars get traded in. It’s a big give point in negotiations. There is a $1000 number to share with the owner as he wore them out.
Some people cars look like trash cans wherever a person doesn’t sit. The carpets need to be seen and felt of below the windshield too!

If the thing is running like it truly has the 145 K, a seat refurbishment would be first on my the list to fix before any show and tell with relatives.

Thanks for catching the turbo being not!
I did wonder why I didn’t see more hose work under the hood.
But there was only one picture from one angle.

Phil

Because of their age (the "newest" is now 25 years old), any 240 that you buy is going to have issues or areas that need attention. The most important thing is to find a car that is rust free and does not have hastily repaired accident damage. Body work is extremely expensive; if you can find one that has a solid body, you come out ahead. The mechanicals will need work regardless.

I would offer $1500 cash for this car and see what the seller says about that offer. I'd also want to know if the heater blower motor, suspension bushings and a few other key parts have already been replaced by him or by one of the previous owners.

Expect to put at least $1000 into any used 240 that you buy.

As far as I know only what is in the Craigslist description + what he emailed me has been replaced. Nothing major it seems.
I am looking to drive this car daily and would ideally like to drive it long term, but I am also somewhat on a budget because I cannot afford to make major repairs on a regular basis (beyond 1-2k like you mentioned).

Thanks for the info.
He told me he overpaid for it (5k off eBay around 3 years ago).
If you look at the photo, it does seem like the suspension is sagging a bit in the back. I asked about it and he was not aware of any issues.
The tires have about 50% life in them based on his estimate.
From what I have seen online, it is very tough to find a wagon with low miles like this for under 3k asking price.
I will negotiate, but coming it at 1,500 cash, I don't expect to come to an agreeable price. We will see. I'll update later tonight. I am bringing the vehicle to a Volvo specialist to be looked over in a little while.

Price and providence of a car depend on how many others are available in your area and how much the money means to you. That car looks expensive to ME, but I have a selection of rust-free 240s at half the price, so that is not really relevant to your situation. While no one on the internet will be able to tell you as much as an actual inspection, I would be leery of reading "...changed valve cover gasket" without THEN reading "...and the PCV."

I've also considered waiting to make a trip to a rust-free region of the US and purchasing a wagon there.
I'll bring up your concerns to the mechanic today.
Thanks.