I recently purchase (my dream car) a Volvo 240 GL Estate which was running when bought (a couple of weeks ago). Like all things I buy, it seems to have stopped working this week, so whilst I plan on posting another "Let the adventure begin" post to say hello to the forum, I figured getting the car running again should probably come first.
A bit of background -
- The engine is version 19 E.
- Car started (mostly) first time every time when purchased
- Car shuttered a bit when the engine was shut off
- The battery (which looks new) mysteriously died about 2 weeks after purchase despite relatively frequent drives
- I recharged the battery, the car started again (though something is continuing to drain it).
- Eventually the car failed to start
- The only mod I have made was installing a new single DIN car stereo (replacing a broken one that was in there when purchased).
- Describing myself as a novice mechanic would be an understatement (but everyone has to start somewhere, I'm keen to learn)
What I've tried to troubleshoot:
- Had a look at the fuse box, all fuses look ok. Have purchased new fuses to replace just in case. There is no visible corrosion on any of the fuses or connections.
- A mechanic came by and sprayed Easy Start into the engine from the air intake and it started - said that I had a fuel issue.
I've looked around the internet and seem numbers of things pointing to the ECU, the Fuel pump (actual and in-tank) as well as the Fuel Pump relay, but before I dove in head first and started pulling the car apart, I thought it wise to post and see if anyone has any notes on how to go about best deducing what the issue might be.
Also to note, there is a hose coming off the Intake that is currently not connected to anything (which seemed odd to me). It's highlighted in the image of my engine bay in blue - perhaps a good place to start?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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1989 Volvo 240 GL Estate, 19 E
Are you sure that's not a B200E motor? As far as I'm aware Volvo didn't make a B19E in 1989. I had a 1988 240 with a B200E motor in the UK. The advice about vacuum leaks is good. The injector seals are particularly delicate, and can cause a no start situation once they start leaking a lot. They are easy to replace -- two seals on each injector, a little one and a bigger one. Another thing on these that's relatively easy to replace is the fuel filter, as it's in the engine bay. If you do this job you'll find out whether the fuel pump is working. Good luck, and don't smoke. K-jet cars are more commonly still on the road in the UK and Australia, so you may get good advice from the Volvoforums.org.uk or OzVolvo.
I'll have a look through the service history to see if maybe they changed out the engine. The VIN number is YV1245243K... So it could be B 200 E? is there any other way of telling? (Novice here).
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1989 Volvo 240 GL Estate, 19 E
Congrats on your recent 1989 Volvo 240 Estate acquisition.
The B19 E you have comes equipped with Bosch K-Jetronic continuous injection and, I believe, a version of the Bosch EZK ignition. B19 E means high compression (relatively) without emission control like a catalytic converter and (I guess) oxygen sensor and the corresponding frequency valve as a fuel trim for emissions control.
A glance of your engine bay image suggest the motor and transmission mounts may need replacement. The engine appears to be sagging rearwards. The brake and, correspondingly, the hydraulic clutch fluid are black. Use a Motive or like pressure bleeder to bleed the brakes or high jinks like seized brake calipers and failed brake and hydraulic clutch master cylinders can eventually fail. I'll refrain from other comment.
K-Jetronic is dependent on a well-sealed air induction intake from the air filter all the way to the ait intake port manifold.
The disconnected hose means the engine has a rather large air intake vacuum leak. So, at least plug the open end. You may want to verify other vacuum leaks before buying any parts.
That hose is very likely usually connected to the postive crankcase ventilation (PCV) breather box that secure to the engine block under the #3 and #4 air intake port dunner that secure to the cylinder head.
It helps to know how many kms are on the odometer.
I'll guess manual 5-speed M47 transmission or perhaps the M46 4-speed + overdrive switch atop the gear lever?
Engine vacuum lifts a round plate that rests within a round venturi that is below the air intake port and throttle body- you see a large round boot larger at the bottom and small at the top secured by clamps. Though I have no wiring diagrams for post-1980 Bosch K-Jetronic, when you crank the engine, engine vacuum lifts the plate, and a switch under the plate engages the the fuel pumps through what should be the green fuel injection relay.
Did the battery lose charge before or after installing your radio?
Do you own an electric multimeter? Preference for digital multimeter of some quality. It need not be high priced Siemens or Fluke.
Plug the hose to see whether the engine starts and runs. If it runs, check for DC volts at the battery. At a cold engine / cold day, around 14.5 - 14.7 Volts DC. The battery discharging repeatedly can ruin it.
Wireline corrosion in low volt DC systems, like that in your 1989 Volvo 240, is something you may not see. Corrosion forms at bonded contacts such the fuse ends at the fuse panel (give them a spin for short term fix), or any wire harness connector that may use similarly or same composed alloys. DeoxIT-D spray or grease can help.
Merely disconnecting / reconnecting an electrical connector can restore electrical connection. Yet get the multimeter if not already.
If you can find a wiring diagram, begin your diagnosis through fuses that are powered with the ignition key out.
You may want to investigate any wire harness modifications a prior owner may have applied. Does the dome, glove box, trunk, or (if equipped) under hood light turn off when you close these to open the circuit so current no longer flows to the bulb? And the like.
The Volvo enthusiast site you may have seen in the UK is:
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/
Thank you for using the BrickPix gallery. The instructions are dated. The only limit is the max file size of 1 megabyte. So, you can post larger images. The image size restriction no longer applies.
Though the brickboard is the largest pro-Volvo site on the i-nets.
Please respond.
Questions?
Hope that helps.
Thank you. Happy Caturday Eve!
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Thanks a million for the very excellent reply. I'm absorbing ! I've replied directly below:
A glance of your engine bay image suggest the motor and transmission mounts may need replacement. The engine appears to be sagging rearwards. The brake and, correspondingly, the hydraulic clutch fluid are black. Use a Motive or like pressure bleeder to bleed the brakes or high jinks like seized brake calipers and failed brake and hydraulic clutch master cylinders can eventually fail. I'll refrain from other comment.
This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping to get (outside of the starting issue). I am going to post some more images in another thread relating to the current state of the car, hoping to get some notes from experts on what might be some good first things to do to get it in top shape. I've noticed already that the radiator expansion tank is leaking, so have planned to replace that, but I'm sure as you mention there are many other things to tackle as well.
The disconnected hose means the engine has a rather large air intake vacuum leak. So, at least plug the open end. You may want to verify other vacuum leaks before buying any parts.
I plugged the open end with a chopstick (all I could think of) and lo and behold, the engine started! Brilliant work there, thank you.
That hose is very likely usually connected to the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) breather box that secure to the engine block under the #3 and #4 air intake port dunner that secure to the cylinder head.
I will have a look there today and see if I can reconnect this. Is it possible to access without taking out the intake?
Do you own an electric multimeter? Preference for digital multimeter of some quality. It need not be high priced Siemens or Fluke.
...check for DC volts at the battery. At a cold engine / cold day, around 14.5 - 14.7 Volts DC. The battery discharging repeatedly can ruin it.
I've checked the battery with a multimeter and it's reading when the car engine is running.
Wireline corrosion in low volt DC systems, like that in your 1989 Volvo 240, is something you may not see. Corrosion forms at bonded contacts such the fuse ends at the fuse panel (give them a spin for short term fix), or any wire harness connector that may use similarly or same composed alloys. DeoxIT-D spray or grease can help.
I've purchased all new fuses and have sprayed the terminals with electrical contact cleaner now just to be safe. Are there any places outside of the fuse box that may need additional checking / cleaning?
You may want to investigate any wire harness modifications a prior owner may have applied. Does the dome, glove box, trunk, or (if equipped) under hood light turn off when you close these to open the circuit so current no longer flows to the bulb? And the like.
The dome light didn't go on when I first bought the car, but I assumed it was a bulb issue so I have since replaced the bulb and it now turns on (but not when the doors are opened, only when manually switched). I'm going to try and example the contacts in the switch and clean them to fix. The glovebox light and license plate lights all work, but the under hood light does not (again might be a bulb issue).
I've post some more (higher res) photos to the Brickboard Gallery as well as a video of the engine running below. If someone can help point me towards the PCV that would be great help!
Chopsticks are useful! Yeah, I got the dangling hose wrong as to purpose.
Thank you for the images and the video. Our wise, esteemed, and revered Volvo 240 sage Art Benstein provides you guidance.
Lovely color! Your 1989 240 (DL, GL?) Sedan (Saloon) is a genuine jewel! Your engine sounds fine in your video. You have the M47 II 5-speed gear box. I'm unsure Volvo makes the high quality gear lube for M47. Though the alternate is a quality synthetic Ford "Type F". I use Amsoil Super Shift in M47.
I'm unsure what brands and their spec you have in UK or in the continent.
Find the overfill method for gear box drain and fill. Verify the fill plug will loosen and tighten. The steel fill and drain plugs secure to thread cut in the aluminum alloy gearbox housing. So, do not cross thread and verify proper torque. Also, you may want to use the newer grey alloy (or fiber?) crush washers. (Though I've reused the copper washers and ensured a clean contact area using residue free brake parts cleaner). Usually, the drain plug, if not both the drain and fill plug, contain a conical magnet load to take ferrous metal bits out of the splashed fluid during motoring. You clean these of metal bits when removed.
I depart for another round at the funny-not so funny cGMP factory for Friday morning.
I'll review your images and your video more. (Thank you for using the Brick Pix Gallery!) Please post more! It would help to see the crank pulley. Though take care using your mobile for images underhood.
I'll reply later today to tomorrow.
Please let me know if the UK, Commonwealth (Canada), or some other useful nation (Norway, Finland, Switzerland) has use of a technical author / illustrator of worth. My joke as I want to defect away from here. ha-ha. Something SCADA control. Some software administered hardware. I'm enamored with Swiss / Swede ABB and Siemens AG.
Missouri is awfullest within the awful. ha-ha. We have the baseball Cardinals, the hockey Blue Notes (Blues) and awful craft beer, all of it. Back to Guinness stout on Nitro charge, I guess. Few rear wheel drive Volvos in rusty city. Even the stainless gateway arches thing gets rust here.
Sorry to go on so. I hate where I work and reside, yet again.
Thanks,
Bruce.
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Lovely color! Your 1989 240 (DL, GL?) Sedan (Saloon) is a genuine jewel! Your engine sounds fine in your video. You have the M47 II 5-speed gear box. I'm unsure Volvo makes the high quality gear lube for M47. Though the alternate is a quality synthetic Ford "Type F". I use Amsoil Super Shift in M47.
Thanks very much! The paint is a little worse for wear on some panels, I would love to replace a few of the panels and respray to the original colour (the tailgate was replaced a few years ago and looks ace. It's a 240 GL Saloon (Estate) and thanks for letting me know which transmission it had - that's great knowledge to have.
Find the overfill method for gear box drain and fill. Verify the fill plug will loosen and tighten. The steel fill and drain plugs secure to thread cut in the aluminum alloy gearbox housing. So, do not cross thread and verify proper torque. Also, you may want to use the newer grey alloy (or fiber?) crush washers. (Though I've reused the copper washers and ensured a clean contact area using residue free brake parts cleaner). Usually, the drain plug, if not both the drain and fill plug, contain a conical magnet load to take ferrous metal bits out of the splashed fluid during motoring. You clean these of metal bits when removed.
Reading around it sounds like i may need to invest in some axle stands and a trolley jack for this job, but I imagine these are going to be must haves moving forward, so I will get on it. Just pout of curiosity, are you recommending doing this based on the sound of the engine or just as a first port of call when buying a used 240?
I'll review your images and your video more. (Thank you for using the Brick Pix Gallery!) Please post more! It would help to see the crank pulley. Though take care using your mobile for images underhood.
Posted up a bunch more below, let me know if you want to see anything else?
Please let me know if the UK, Commonwealth (Canada), or some other useful nation (Norway, Finland, Switzerland) has use of a technical author / illustrator of worth. My joke as I want to defect away from here. ha-ha. Something SCADA control. Some software administered hardware. I'm enamored with Swiss / Swede ABB and Siemens AG.
Funny enough, I felt the same so I ended up moving here myself (though from California). It's been 10 years now and I'm a citizen, but the good old US still likes me filing taxes.
Good news is that I finally found where that hose went - it was tough to see, actually had to get on top of the car and shine a light under the inlet manifold to see it, but finally found something lurking underneath the 3rd and 4th (towards the car), just as Art (I think it was) said. The hose is quite stiff and seems a little short, but I made it work! It's running now, but still feels a little sketchy when idling. If I leave it too long it dies (battery issue). I just bought a new battery and will fit it this w/e. Hoping for the best.
If there is anything major you can see based on the photos, let me know!
Thank you for replying. In no order other than your images unless indicated otherwise .... :
The image(s) that include(s) the steering column appeared sprayed with white lithium grease. Usually you use a quality synthetic oil on the 4 u-joint bearing caps under the circlips and, supposedly, the needle bearings receive some lubrication. Volvo no longer produces the u-joints. There exists one after market for the lower u-joint. I've read that there exist Range Rover steering column u-joints that suit 240 (and maybe other) steering column shaft. You'd have to confirm. The power assist steering work well, smoothly? The fluid level is up and clean? The inner tie boots secured? Does the rack appear replaced? For the miles, the inner and outer tie rods should have been raplced at least once. The rack under the boots and with inner tie rods removed may need some grease so long as the nylon bushes at either end are secure and you do not enounter play as you move the geared rack rod around. Enough grease to lube yet not so much to prevent air moving left to right and back between bellows as you steer.
You are leaking some motor oil. I'll guess the PCV at least breathes easily? The large PCV hose that set atop the flame trap sieve bit and pieces of hose and PCV sieve housing ... the large hose to clamp to the well, I dunno with your 1990 RUD UK K-Jetronic setup. Clamp the small hose, if there is one, or use your chopstick method again. Blow through the end of the large PCV hose. With oil cap on, you can nearly not displace any air. With oil fill cap off, air moves freely out the oil fill cap hole. You do have the block-mounted breather / oil separator breather box like our North American LH-Jetronic injected 240s-740s though dunno where the other end secure to your K-jetronic intake.
You may have the three front oil seals leaking, though a clear and freely breathing PCV flame trap sieve may solve most oil leak problems. Though at the aft end of the cylinder head center between the valve cover and the cylinder head is a round (maybe half-moon) rubber oil seal. These can shrink and seep oil.
It help that you clean the engine bay using a self-service wash. Wet and soak with concentrated detergent and spray off. Do not overly spray at electrical thing including the distributor cap. May help you find where it is leaking most. Keep an eye-bulb on the oil level. Change the oil on time.
The water pump seals againts the underside of the cylinder head using a seal and against the engine block using a gasket. A prior water pump replacement may not have performed the action to lever the water pump up before tightening the the oblong water pump hole hardware from loose or barely snug to press the seal to the cylinder head underside. Some will use RTV sealant. Don't. Working time is usually short. Using sealant does not make up for poor installation. Use synthetic silicon grease and Volvo blue box brand seals and water pump gasket. There appears to be coolant seeping or leaking from this top seal or from the top of the gasket. I like Hepu brand. We have:
http://cleanflametrap.com/wasserpumpen.html
Good you have a lower engine cover, or belly pan. These can fail around the 8 or 10 points where the 10 mm hex head machine bolts secure the ABS plastic to the underside.
Do you know how long the timing belt has been in service? Sorry it repeating it. New t-belt (ContiTech / Continental is OEM) 50k miles and INA brand tensioner every 2nd t-belt (100k miles).
You'll have to replace the cylinder head to exhaust manifold port gaskets preventivley. I'm unsure when, yet the seals have rusted and flake away so you can see the seam between the exhaust port and cylinder head material. In some instances, you may want to take the exhaust manifold to a machine shop to plane the exhaust manifold inlet port. The repair is risky as the exhaust manifold studs secured to the cylinder head rust. The nuts and the studs can rust together and be difficult to remove. Some will use a durable wire wheel to remove the stud thead rust as it extends beyond the nut. You cna also use penetrant fluid like Kroil and Liquid Wrench, or a combo of Dexron and Acetone to reduce friction with dissolving rust. Apply penetrant fluid to the stud at the cylinder head in hops the thread interface inside the cylinder head releases. Tap the nut and stud to set up a vibration repeately. The risk is an exhaust manifold stud breaking off at the cylinder head material surface. You may want to find an honest (ha!) repair service that able to treat your vintage 1989 Volvo 240 Saloon (Sedan) withjout serious expense (ha!).
You may need special tools. The dealership may rent crank pulley and t-belt cam gear counterholds. Also try Volvo (Marine Service) Penta for rental tools, parts both use and new, and what have you.
In:
The clamp is not secured or at least not positioned and secured properly.
Your distributor has a vacuum advance on it? Is it points or electronic ignition? I'd read that later K-Jetronic used Bosch EZK11x (117?) with on-distributor impulse sender or is it points? I'm unsure. The upper distributor bushing may be lubed at piece of red beige felt in a recess under the cap and rotor (remove the rotor, a few drops of clean engine oil until felt appers 'wetted') as you have may have this or not.
It would be nice if you could zoom out on some images or show components in several views like the distributor.
Though I guiess that has got it. You may want to click FAQ above, though the FAQ does not deal with K-Jetronic injection much at all.
I'm sure other folks have insight useful to you.
Questions?
Hope that helps.
MacDuffy's Buttermilk Tavern.
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It helps to know how many kms are on the odometer.
A faulty odometer was changed at 199k miles, and we're now at around 95k miles with the new one, so all in it's approaching 300k now.
I'll guess manual 5-speed M47 transmission or perhaps the M46 4-speed + overdrive switch atop the gear lever?
It's just a straight 5 speed manual (no overdrive that I know of).
Did the battery lose charge before or after installing your radio?
It was after, but the purchase of the car and installation of the radio were only a couple weeks apart. It also made me a bit suspicious, but the installation was very much plug and play (the same plug connectors were used, no rewiring was necessary). That said, there is a chance I pulls something else loose in the process of installation?
I took the DC voltage on the battery once started and it read 11.4V.
Pardon my butting in here, but that is really a treat to see that 1989 LHD B19E-powered 245 in what was once my favorite 240 color, which we rarely saw here!
I can't help with the destination of that loose hose -- can't see in there as well as I'd like -- but we can see the brake booster connection, and we know there are at least three other uses for k-jet manifold vacuum with different porting: The PCV (or flame trap), the cabin climate control pneumatic valves, if equipped with the Combination Unit system, and the vacuum advance for the distributor which uses Bosch TZ28H ignition.
My suspicion is this car has the Standard Unit (heater only) so there's no vacuum hose headed through the firewall. I don't see any AC hoses.
If you have any green book wiring diagram manual, such as 1989 to 1993, you have the maps for the CI injection and TZ ignition, or if you have the Bentley manual, you have this too.
You're right to say the k-jet fueled motor will not run well at all with a vacuum leak like what appears as the disconnected hose. I'd suggest pinching or plugging it to test that, even before discovering what it broke off of.
One thing I can only guess at, and can't say for sure, is the reason for the sub-2K displacement is based in the way motor vehicles are taxed in this market.
If so, it comes from a restricted port on the manifold, with a small orifice, which in normal operation has near atmospheric pressure (crankcase) so it won't be the reason the car doesn't start.
And, if the open hose isn't the reason no fuel is being injected, my suggestion would be to verify the fuel pumps are delivering fuel to the filter when the engine is cranked. The usual shade tree way this is done is to crack loose a fitting at the filter to see the spray of fuel under pressure. Not really safe. Another way is to bypass the fuel relay and listen without the noise of cranking:
This is the fuel relay found above the driver's left knee. It isn't necessarily green, but the wire colors on the six-place socket will identify it. To bypass it, the pins 30 (red), 87 (yellow/red), and 87b (blue/red) need to be jumpered together. The fuel pumps should then run without the key in. Fuel can be felt in the lines (cold) or pressure can be observed much more safely without the danger of live ignition.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
“Never underestimate the difficulty of changing false beliefs by facts.” --- Henry Rosovsky
It seems the starting issue indeed has to do with that hose, but just to make a note on the Fuel Pump Relay since this came up and there were others who were questioning what kind of motor this might be, I have taken out the glove box and snapped some photos of the Relay for further clarity.
The relay surely isn't your trouble, as the sweet rhythm of the motor running in your video testifies.
Good for you to know where it is, since my parochial LHD viewpoint caused me to lead you to the wrong side of the car to look for it. I should have said above the passenger's knee in your case. Also, it is interesting to see the green cylindrical bulb integrity sensor aka bulb failure warning sensor clipped to the firewall. That should be helpful to know when assisting our fellow 240 enthusiasts in GB and Australia.
As to the destination of that hose with the chopstick in it, I think it may be your distributor vacuum advance. Also, you circled the idle mixture adjustment on the airflow meter (uses a 3mm Allen wrench to adjust with a CO meter).
Also, re-check that voltage with the motor running. It should be above 13V. If it isn't, your battery is not getting charged by the alternator.
Here in the US, all B230 motors located the PCV valve, or flame trap, between the third and fourth runner of the intake manifold, leading to an oil separator mounted on the block itself above the intermediate shaft. This would need you to look under the manifold and just above the starter motor. I have no idea where it is on a B200E, which I believe yours really is. By the way, what is your source for calling it a B19E?
Anyway, look down at the base of your distributor for the vacuum advance, looks like two tiny pie pans with a nipple. Trace the hose from there and I think you'll find where that one up top goes. If it were the PCV hose, I don't think it would prevent the car from starting.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
"Those were the best days of my life" Summer of '69
As to the destination of that hose with the chopstick in it, I think it may be your distributor vacuum advance. Also, you circled the idle mixture adjustment on the airflow meter (uses a 3mm Allen wrench to adjust with a CO meter).
Thanks for the build notes! Looking at some other pictures I found of the B200E (which, you're right, I think is probably correct), it's looking like this hose normal travels straight down through the inlet manifold and connects to something below. I will double check when I get home, but I don't think the hose is long enough to reach the distributor, but that said, maybe it broke. I will look and check back in.
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1989 Volvo 240 GL Estate, 19 E
Thanks doe the welcome Silvermine. As far as I know, this is the original engine. the service records are pretty thorough and I have combed through them looking for evidence of any replacements of what Haynes pointed to as potential problems (didn't find them), but didn't recall seeing any engine transplants.
I can say that something at some point has happened to the odometer, so I can look a bit more closely tonight (maybe it was just that they replaced the odometer).
Does the image not look like the 19 E model? I only made that assumption based on decoding the VIN number.
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