Firstly, I just wanna say that I LOVE this forum! An indispensable reference for brickheads. So, thank you!

Now, my ‘92 240DL... Where can I find a replacement bulb to the switch for the seat warmers?

Next, when the engine warms to the halfway mark (on the dashboard temp gauge), the check engine light comes on. I noticed that—it seems—the fan closest to the grill never turns on, nor does the level of the coolant, in the reservoir, ever change. Please help point me in the right direction. Thanks!

Hi there!
It's been awhile since we have heard from you. Like a year and half?
Did you ever find out the problem with the shutting down in the 1991?
We that post on here would like to know if our help did anything and it's how we learn to help others at the same time.
Thanks for the buff job early but rub us back occasionally! Ok!
That problem you had has been floating around on the board with different posters and I wondered if one fits you.
It seems that the one recently was a bad or cracked fuse in the fuse panel by the door.

As far as I can tell your 1992, it is being its normal self!
The fan on the outside of the radiator only runs when the A/C is on and if the head pressure get high enough to warrant losing more heat.
The cabin or the outside temperature has to get pretty hot and this is not the time of the year for that.

The temperature gauge is operating normally if it still has its compensation board in the instrument cluster or if it's points straight across, it has the proper 92 C thermostat in the engine.

As far as the coolant level going up and down, you have to observe it between hot and cold.
It doesn't have to move much since the surface area is so large at the top of the tank, verus the bottom or minimum level end.
I never thought about it much, but I guess it moves about a half inch.
If you keep it filled up closer to the top front corners, when the car is level and the engine hot, you should see it move more easily down when cold. I just watch it to be between the lines, in case there becomes a leak somewhere.

A water pump and bulb question, that is in the header and the answer is water pumps are available everywhere and are reasonably priced and you want new ones with popular brands names.
The most mentioned on the board are the HEPU pumps. I guess this is because of the country of origin, of which, is from Germany, I think?
Most any new pump seem to hold up well as they are a straight forward design. It's the upper gasket that fits under the head that gives the most trouble about seeping with age.

As far as bulbs for the seat heaters or the console floor light at the back, they are the same as I remember.
I have seen the seat heaters emblems melted on some Junkers where the wrong one gets put in.
I surmise that the little bulbs come in a couple different wattages and consequently, one is too hot.

I have measured the size of them to track them down on line, but have not taken the time to do so much.
I have been close in my hunt and I think it's a 2721 number and a 1.2 watt from OSRAM/Sylvania might be the one if its not too hot. I just saw a post for a 2719 so look at both.
They are the largest manufacturer now, since the merge, of foreign bulbs, especially in the incandescent automotive side.

So far, I have a nice stash put away plenty from Junkers out of the PNP's.
I'm watching the LEDS come down in prices and that has happened big time lately. Eventually I will replace them anyways.
I know there are a zillion different brands and qualities out there. So it's buyer beware of what you are going to get! Prices are not a great indicator to help you out either.

I know that anymore, that you do not want to buy any bulbs from a brick and mortar parts stores.
They have gone bezirk on their pricing!
Even Walmart, is in with those animals now!

I have seen better competitive pricing on "dedicated" .com sites for bulbs and small batteries.
Even the places where we get our bigger parts, ON LINE, will carry some bulbs as a "wild card" to draw you in.
The .coms can have better prices because they do their behind the scenes work in high volumes and with your many other items you might purchase make them virtually ship for free due to their lack of weight in a bundle.
So make a big order and everyone gets happy!

Phil

It’s been so long, I’ve forgotten how to post and respond. Hence, questions posted in wrong area and incomplete subject lines. Lol!

Thanks for the info, Phil. I just ordered all the bulbs I need.

I’m surprised you remember my previous posts, about the shutting off issue. But, not long after that post, my ex decided to drive that car in a snowstorm and did a donut into a ditch, damaging the rear quarter panel, bumper, some trim, and blowing the tire. The car sat, since then, until recently, when I’ve decided to bring it from the ashes. But, before I can get it back on the road, in order to finish addressing the previous issue, there are more immediate issues that require attention... oil change, tires, trim, this check engine light issue, blown bulbs, state inspection, etc. I can say, I removed the back seat and adjusted clips in the fuel pump connector. Next, I’ll probably check the connections behind the glove box. I also found, the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator had a hole in it. So, I replaced that and am anxious to get it back on the road. Glad you remembered and bothered to take the time to give such a detailed response. Thx!

For switch bulbs, I have used #7219 bulbs. For a package of 10:

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/eiko/7219-pk-10/70012800/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImOO69eOO4QIV27bACh3gdwJiEAQYASABEgL1FfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

When the CEL turns on, did you find a code????

Usually, when the AC is on, the other fan is on.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Thanks for the info, Klaus. How do I get a code on a ‘92? I tgought that predated onboard computers. Thx.

You have an OBD box in the engine compartment. Under the cover there is a probe and 8 ports, along with a button and red LED. Go to the FAQs to find out how to use it.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new

Thanks for the info, Phil. I just ordered all the bulbs I need.

I’m surprised you remember my previous posts, about the shutting off issue. But, not long after that post, my ex decided to drive that car in a snowstorm and did a donut into a ditch, damaging the rear quarter panel, bumper, some trim, and blowing the tire. The car sat, since then, until recently, when I’ve decided to bring it from the ashes. But, before I can get it back on the road, in order to finish addressing the previous issue, there are more immediate issues that require attention... oil change, tires, trim, this check engine light issue, blown bulbs, state inspection, etc. I can say, I removed the back seat and adjusted clips in the fuel pump connector. Next, I’ll probably check the connections behind the glove box. I also found, the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator had a hole in it. So, I replaced that and am anxious to get it back on the road. Glad you remembered and bothered to take the time to give such a detailed response. Thx!

i would check all the grounds first & clean them.then I would do a complete flush of the oil. My mechanic Jim Bobbitt ,Phillipsburg told me to use a pint of an oil flush & drive slowly 30 miles &then change the oil & let it totally drain before using a new copper seal .I used napa synthetic oil & then engine seems to run smoother & acceralate much easier.