Hello all:

When I was taking off one of the doors from my 122S, I stripped some of the large, flat-headed screws that connected the hinges to the door. So, when I am ready to put the door back on, I would need some new ones. As far as I see, no hardware stores in my area carry the same kind.

Wonder if any of you have any extra screws in good shape that you are willing to sell? I am in need for a few that I am willing to pay for, including shipping. Or provide any link to the right online hardware shop I could get some from.

Thanks!

-DS

Many thanks to the friends who replied to my posting about needing the hinge screws! Gleaning all the valuable tips from your responses as reference, I found that Amazon has them- a package of hex-drive stainless screws for $8.00 with free shipping (I have Prime membership). Got them in mail just this evening and they fit perfectly! Fast shipping too as I had only ordered it on Sunday morning.

In case anyone of you are interested, here is the link to copy and paste below:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=5%2F16-18+x+3%2F4%22+Flat+Head+Socket+Cap+Screws+18-8+Stainless+Steel%2C+Quantity+10%2C+Countersunk+Head%2C+Allen+Hex+Drive+By+Fastenere&ref=is_s

(Votx: the website you provided, albanycountyfasteners.com looked great, but the shipping cost is more that the purchase cost. They offer free shipping on orders over $100, but what am I gonna do with all the screws? ;)


Thanks again, guys!

If you buy them thru Ebay the shipping is usually free.

Ah! But thanks anyway- you have been a help.

These are grade 5. I think I'd stay away from grade 3

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-16-18-NC-Flat-Head-Cap-Screws-Allen-Hex-Drive-Black-Oxide-All-Lengths-Qtys/173755623153?hash=item2874a466f1:m:mdjDQJjbmvpOd-cJEyWtYww

A good source for hardware is "Albany County Fasteners". I've purchased from them several times. They have the 5/16-18 X 3/4 countersunk socket-head screws in stainless, $5.75 for a pkg. of 25.

Thanks, Votx!

DS;

I don't like the OE Phillips bolts because of the camming out factor when trying to remove, which inevitably results in bunging up the OE bolts...although not original, I'd replace with Allen flatheads...

Cheers

Tell me about it, Ron! The metal of these screw bolts are quite soft! I had to keep the screwdriver straight into the slot with force before turning or else it slips, wearing out the slot easily. Hex slot instead of philips would have been ideal!

See a couple of pictures of the fun lesson I had with the first screw I tried to extract and ended up needing to use a screw extractor.

One trick you can try with stubborn Phillips head screws:

Take a small drift or center punch that is small enough to reach into the bottom of the Phillips slots in the screw head. Wallop it with two or three healthy hammer blows. What that does is stretch the screw shank inward ever so minutely and relieve some of the load on the threads. Then it unscrews more easily.
--
Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)

Thanks for the tip, Chris! However the problem with that is that the screws behind the hinge doesn’t offer much space to use a hammer without hitting the end of the dash, let alone finding a punch short enough.

For what it's worth, in the tool kits for 140's with the hubcaps which are held on by a single screw, there is a cranked tommy bar with a crosshead end. This fits the hinge screws perfectly. Leverage is good but to enhance the tool you could weld on a short handle to enable you to apply pressure while you try and turn the screw.

No 140s in my possesion, but I did something similar to the concept you described. I used an oversized Philips bit that was used with the impact driver. Fitting the bit snugly and straight in the slot, I used a wrench to clamp on the hexagonal-shaped stem of the bit then pushed the handle forward. Worked well for the rest of the screws after learning my lesson with the first one.

-DS

Forum;

Using the correct bit size (Phillips #3 or 4?) is obviously crucial, but so is pressure into the fastener to prevent camming out with inevitable associated damage (Pozidrive would not to this...unfortunately, they are not...)

...last time I needed to remove a door-hinge, I remember adding a spacer/lever to the other side of door-frame with which to positively press the bit into fastener, and prevent camming out...making this a two man operation...

Can anyone verify is a thread locking compound was applied during installation...if so, heat will defeat this and help.

Cheers

Joe Lazenby 717 645-4723

Thanks! Will text.

-DS

Might want to contact this guy and see what he used -- I've linked you to the last page of the thread where he talks about replacing the door latch/striker hardware.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=333984&page=36

--
82 242-6.2L; '17 Mazda3; '16 Crosstrek

Thanks, Michael! The link shows some serious work on the wagon! But no mention of what I need. Appreciate you trying to help though.

-DS

They're just your basic 5/16" UNC flat head screws 3/4" long and a 5/16" cone shaped external star lock washer, both of which should be available at any good hardware store.

If you have any trouble finding what you need, let me know.

FYI, have you tried you nearest Air Force base? Long story short, when I worked at hardware store in Las Vegas back in 1980, I special ordered some of the exact same sized Mil Spec screws for some guys from Nellis AFB. They said they were for holding down some non-critical access panels on a F15 or F16. The only major difference was the original screws from the planes they showed me used a special driver. :-) :-)
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Thanks, Eric. I guess the stores I tried didn’t have good enough hardware. An air force base is about 45 miles from where I live. Perhaps I should just google up space-grade screws? ;)

-DS