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AMM adjustment with test light. 700

Well after realizing my AMM / O2 test light wasn't working due to bad O2 sensor, I replace it. Now adjusting the screw on the AMM to flash, my idle mixture is still rich. If I set the adjustment while running the engine at 2500 rpm and set the AMM screw to where the test light flashes the idle mixture is cleaner and the car runs great. I'm also watching the millivolts from the O2 sensor while doing the run test and all seems to be fine while adjusting the mixture. The BIG question is ? Does setting the AMM mixture screw along with the test light work better at 2500 rpm for setting mixture?
Also Wonder if the engine temp sensor is slowly enriching the mixture ? I do know when the last temp sensor went bad my engine was flooding out. Guess the first thing is to check the temp sensor operating Ohms. or just put the new one in.








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    AMM adjustment with test light. Fixxed.... 700

    Engine temp sensor was incorrect for my car. It was sold to me as the correct replacement. Pulled it back out and checked the part #....BMW is what came up. Order a Bosch Engine temp sensor. (Blue). Drove the 740 a few days and all is well. ECU needs some driving time to settle in. Very important to get the exact Bosch brand part. The incorrect was different parameters, cause incorrect fuel mixture even tough I dial in the AMM. I figured it's a Bosch ECU, so give a Bosch sensor. Time for a Valve adjustment. Trying to do bumper to bumper. repair and replace. I better get the new AC kit in before it gets cold.








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    AMM adjustment with test light. 700

    Hey there,

    Hopefully this is somewhat helpful to you. And it's funny, I do the same thing with watching O2 voltage swing while adjusting.

    I didn't see it mentioned in your post but I would set base idle just as a habit before going forward with testing mixture. I believe you want to test while the car is at its usual idle, ~ 750 rpm, and at operating temperature. And yes, I would suspect the coolant temperature sensor.

    Last, and why I thought to post in the first place, is that the amm mixture adjustment pot may take many turns to make a noticeable difference. I just make sure to count the number of turns I make to be on the safe side if I need to go back to where it was set to. There is also some tests on the amm pins if you'd like to go any further. Searching around I found this thread http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=13912
    Which is what I think I used but am not totally sure.

    Sorry if this information is redundant for you and hopefully it is somewhat useful info.










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      AMM t. 700

      Moustacio, I always set the base idle first. It gives the IAC valve precise moment with the intake flow. One of my Saab manuals say's Bosch AMM range to start with is 380 ohms. I always check the actual Ohms that the AMM is set at. Then test drive the car. Pretty sure the enrichment problem is due to an old engine temp sensor.Haven"t checked the cold engine Ohms and the sensor progression. I have a new sensor in my spare part box, so In it goes. Car runs great right now with plenty of Turbo Boost. The slight miss and lack of power at times was due to my battery being loose in it's base. The clamp had fail and battery slid into the ignition amplifier plug clip. It loosen the plug part way from it's connection and was shorting out the connection. Made a new battery hold down clamp and plug the Ignition amplifier back in until it locked on. Didn"t really see it at first since it looked fully connected. Ooops! Next I'll post my finding of Engine temp sensor. "It's all simple if you don't add frustration"







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