is not working. ABS light does not come on which indicates that the pickup on the differential is working.

What should I look at next, easy to hard. (But a drop of solder on the cluster should not be too bad.)

Tom

javalion,

I'll imagine you've reviewed these Volvo 700-900 Series FAQ articles?

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalInstruments.htm

Doesnot mention 1995 940. 1993 and earlier.
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalSpeedometerRepair.htm

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalInstrumentsPanelRepair.htm



Unemployed and now broke. How do I pay August 2019 Rent?

My pricey buttermilk and lentil soup habit caught up with me.
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Dumb question: Does the ABS light come on in Key posII?
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

abs is connected to the sensors in the wheels.I dont think its connected to the axle .

Gooood question. In KP2, yes, along with all the other warning lights.

Tom

Its the wire t the pickup on the axle that is broken

Correct me if I'm wrong. I just fixed fixed this on son's 1995 turbo, the indication that was both the ABS warning light and no speedometer. The signal pick-up wire was broken and fixed.

The ABS system uses that signal for the anti-lock braking control of the rear tire(s).

But, maybe the ABS system has to tried and the ABS warning light won't come on until then.

Tom

On the same year 850, the speedometer signal goes to the ABS module. It performs the ABS system check at around 18mph, and if Not valid turns on the ABS light.

You should be able to check the ABS codes with the OBD I box under the hood.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

I was reading some BB posts on the subject fearing the worse, the speedometer.

I put the speedometer aside hopefully forever because the ABS light went on and no speedometer signal.

The Volvos in the my yard are sometimes injured or die but are reanimated with mostly the help of the Brickboard, thank you, and the Volvo wiring diagram book.

I found the Diagnostic instructions for ABS, should have looked first. The ABS light finally came on and stayed on. Cleared codes. Wife drove the car for a short errand of 3 miles, the speedo worked on the way there and not on the way back. The ABS light came on right away stayed on as it should until cleared.

I am leaning and hoping for a problem at pick-up connection and wires at the differential. Pulled out the plug and it was stuck and finally was wrestled out, dirty and correded looking. Wires intact but not tested yet.

The connection is a pair male and female sockets and plugs that seems to be aluminum and hard to access to wipe. Ill spray in some hose water to remove dirt, poke a little with a stiff bristle brush and a toothpick and rinse with a distilled water spray. After it dries I'll spray both ends with DeoxIT-D5 which is safe and a leaves a protectant for aluminum.

Tom

Looks like you found the problem. I would just have used an old tooth brush to clean the male and female parts, loaded it with di-electric grease and reassembled.

If you wash it with water, you might want to use a hair drier to get it completely dry.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

I hope this solved the problem long term. Just hosed down, brushed, rinsed and plugged it in and out several times, rinsed again and it fixed the problem just to prove that it was dirt and corrosion. It is still wet. Tomorrow, going to use the wash/brush again and dry this time with a hot air gun, then use the dielectric grease.

TOm

Dear javalion,

Hope you;'re well. I'd never use water to clean any electrical connector. I'd use compressed air to remove loose dirt, etc. I'd then use a swab with methyl ethyl ketone (MEK - chemical cousin of acetone) to dissolve any greasy dirt. I'd then apply Deoxit.

Water promotes corrosion on electrical contacts. Alcohol, e.g., 90% rubbing alcohol, attracts and bonds with water. If you don't have - or do not want to use MEK (flammable and carcinogenic) - use 90% rubbing alcohol for the final clean before applying Deoxit. Most pharmacies inventory 90% rubbing alcohol.

After you've re-assembled, you might want to cover the connector - from the point where the wires exit the plastic sheath to the top of the sensor's body - with butyl rubber tape. This tape is used to install glass because it makes a waterproof, flexible, and durable seal.

Butyl rubber - usually black - does not harden. The tape, one positioned, can be compressed with finger pressure to form a very flexible rubber boot, that will keep water (and road salt) away from that connector.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

BTW, the codes are:
1-5-5, Rear axle sensor: open circuit or short circuit to battery voltage.
2-3-5, Rear axle sensor: signal missing.

Tom